diagnosing suspension issue
#1
diagnosing suspension issue
Hello,
I've got a bit of a problem that I'd like to throw out here for some feedback.
I've got a vibration in the driver front suspension between 45 and 60 mph which seems to be deteriorating. I can usually stop the vibration by appying some acceleration. I get a clunk or a shift of some kind when I step on the gas and likewise when I apply some brake. There are knocking noises when driving over rough pavement. Other than that, no other symptoms, no issues with turning etc.
I'm really hoping its control arm bushings. Any thoughts?
Thank you,
E.
I've got a bit of a problem that I'd like to throw out here for some feedback.
I've got a vibration in the driver front suspension between 45 and 60 mph which seems to be deteriorating. I can usually stop the vibration by appying some acceleration. I get a clunk or a shift of some kind when I step on the gas and likewise when I apply some brake. There are knocking noises when driving over rough pavement. Other than that, no other symptoms, no issues with turning etc.
I'm really hoping its control arm bushings. Any thoughts?
Thank you,
E.
#7
DO like I did and try the process of elimination. I too have had that vibration on the driverside at speeds of over 60mph. I got new tie rod ends, struts, and boots on that side of the car, new tires and even an alignment. Problem still there, so Im thinking its coming from my cv joint since the boot was torn.
#10
DO like I did and try the process of elimination. I too have had that vibration on the driverside at speeds of over 60mph. I got new tie rod ends, struts, and boots on that side of the car, new tires and even an alignment. Problem still there, so Im thinking its coming from my cv joint since the boot was torn.
Ever seen what happens when a CV joint completely fails? Let's just say it's ugly and the guy got to buy a LOT of new suspension pieces as well as a differential in the tranny.
#14
like matt said if you see that the boots are messed up on the cv axles do those first, and then see if that fixes the problem. if not, do LCA bushings (as old as our cars are they need new ones anyways). you can get polyurethane ones for the 4th gen then make angled cuts on the corners so that they match the shape of the stock bushings OR buy a pre-rubber-bushing'd control arm from internetautomar's site.
#16
eh, don't worry yourself unnecessarily. i've never heard of any differential problems on our cars regardless what tranny they came with. as stated tho, at the car's age the bushings are almost certainly due to be replaced anyways so might as well go ahead and do them now whether they are really the cause of the problems or not. the kit that you have to custom-trim yourself is $45 or so, the preloaded OEM-rubber arm ones are $55 per side. then you would just need an alignment after you put them on.
#17
tie rod ends will cause the exact symptoms you're describing. so will bad ball joints.
bad tie rod ends don't feel any different when cornering either.
If they're more than 10 years old, replace them. ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, etc. they're all wear items and generally last less than 150k miles.
bad tie rod ends don't feel any different when cornering either.
If they're more than 10 years old, replace them. ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, etc. they're all wear items and generally last less than 150k miles.
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