Advanced Ignition Timing Questions...
#1
Advanced Ignition Timing Questions...
I am wanting to advance the timing 5 degrees on my VG30E. Any help on how I can do this procedure myself would be great, has I don't want to advance too much for fear of detonation. Thanks
nismo1989@aol.com
nismo1989@aol.com
#3
SEARCH
this has been asked soooo many times before so a search would have saved you some time and saved some space on the server (gotta love the server is busy message)
for VG timing advance:
http://members.csinet.net/tisch/maxima/
for VE timing advance:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~gte671n/mymax.html
this has been asked soooo many times before so a search would have saved you some time and saved some space on the server (gotta love the server is busy message)
for VG timing advance:
http://members.csinet.net/tisch/maxima/
for VE timing advance:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~gte671n/mymax.html
#4
[QUOTE]Originally posted by «§»Craig B«§»
[B]SEARCH
this has been asked soooo many times before so a search would have saved you some time and saved some space on the server (gotta love the server is busy message)
No need to be harsh, friend. I have done a search and the only things I come up with are the websites you mentioned above, neither of which actually tells/shows how it's done on MY engine. So, if anyone ELSE can offer help ie
ics, diagrams, step-by-step how-to, please do. Thanks again, and sorry for repeating a discussion.
(damn "newbies", who lets em on this board anyway?!)
[B]SEARCH
this has been asked soooo many times before so a search would have saved you some time and saved some space on the server (gotta love the server is busy message)
No need to be harsh, friend. I have done a search and the only things I come up with are the websites you mentioned above, neither of which actually tells/shows how it's done on MY engine. So, if anyone ELSE can offer help ie
![Stick Out Tongue](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
(damn "newbies", who lets em on this board anyway?!)
![bonk](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/bonk.gif)
#5
Originally posted by nismo1989
No need to be harsh, friend. I have done a search and the only things I come up with are the websites you mentioned above, neither of which actually tells/shows how it's done on MY engine. So, if anyone ELSE can offer help ie
ics, diagrams, step-by-step how-to, please do. Thanks again, and sorry for repeating a discussion.
(damn "newbies", who lets em on this board anyway?!)
No need to be harsh, friend. I have done a search and the only things I come up with are the websites you mentioned above, neither of which actually tells/shows how it's done on MY engine. So, if anyone ELSE can offer help ie
![Stick Out Tongue](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
(damn "newbies", who lets em on this board anyway?!)
![bonk](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/bonk.gif)
I'm not sure what engine your car has, but since it's a 1989 Nissan Maxima, it should have the 3.0L VG30E V6 in it unless it got swapped sometime.
The link I posted for VG engines is what you need
once you get to Bryan's site, on the left menu bar there will be a link to advanced timing.
that should be all you need
good luck
#6
Originally posted by «§»Craig B«§»
The link I posted for VG engines is what you need
once you get to Bryan's site, on the left menu bar there will be a link to advanced timing.
that should be all you need
The link I posted for VG engines is what you need
once you get to Bryan's site, on the left menu bar there will be a link to advanced timing.
that should be all you need
Thanks for the help, and thanks to Extreme Imports for thier guidence once again.
#10
Originally posted by skatanic28
so its not gonna do anything bad to a 11 year old engine
better fuel isnt a problem so thats ok
any need to do advance after just intalling a cai>?
or should i wait until after i get a y pipe too
so its not gonna do anything bad to a 11 year old engine
better fuel isnt a problem so thats ok
any need to do advance after just intalling a cai>?
or should i wait until after i get a y pipe too
#12
I ran 20 and 25 degrees at the track last week.....saw a .05 sceond difference(on 25) and it was a little more peppy off the line(I pulled 2.39-2.4 60fts.). I wouldn't say its an extraordinary mod that makes a big difference, and on the downside I think it kinda killed my highend since I lost 1 mph on my usual 84 mph traps! when I go back to the track I'm gonna try it again, this time I'll do 3-4 runs, one on 15(stock)and then 17-20 degrees and see if its even worth doing.
#13
I am interested in doing this
But what are the cons and pros for this change in the timing..? and yes i did a search...
What will it do the fuel mileage or anything harse to the engine or car.. as i only know that you need to run octane 91 and greater
What will it do the fuel mileage or anything harse to the engine or car.. as i only know that you need to run octane 91 and greater
#14
Originally posted by brubenstein
Get a timing light. There are timing marks on the end of the crank pully. Rotate the distributor until you advance it by 5 degrees.
Get a timing light. There are timing marks on the end of the crank pully. Rotate the distributor until you advance it by 5 degrees.
#15
re:advantages or dis
Advancing the timing makes it spark before the piston hits top dead center. That allows more of the fuel to burn while the piston is going down. But since it's already burning on the way up, it creates higher temperature and pressure when it hits TDC. That's why it can cause detonation. It should give you better gas mileage and power at low end as long as it doesn't detonate. Like was already mentioned, it tends to seem to hurt the high end. Racers with programable ignitions will usually advance the ignition till around 4k or so, and then retard it a degree or two for the high end. I'm not totally sure on the reason, but I think we see the high end suffer because it's detecting knock and retarding the ignition. I've always wanted to order a Super ITC so that I could retard the high end and crank up the low end. Without that or some other programing, we just have to figure out what rpm we want our power at.
Advancing the timing makes it spark before the piston hits top dead center. That allows more of the fuel to burn while the piston is going down. But since it's already burning on the way up, it creates higher temperature and pressure when it hits TDC. That's why it can cause detonation. It should give you better gas mileage and power at low end as long as it doesn't detonate. Like was already mentioned, it tends to seem to hurt the high end. Racers with programable ignitions will usually advance the ignition till around 4k or so, and then retard it a degree or two for the high end. I'm not totally sure on the reason, but I think we see the high end suffer because it's detecting knock and retarding the ignition. I've always wanted to order a Super ITC so that I could retard the high end and crank up the low end. Without that or some other programing, we just have to figure out what rpm we want our power at.
#16
Originally posted by rcrdps
I've always wanted to order a Super ITC so that I could retard the high end and crank up the low end.
I've always wanted to order a Super ITC so that I could retard the high end and crank up the low end.
![bawling](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/bawling.gif)
#17
Oh man! That bites! I've dreamed of getting that thing. Not that I never had the money, just that other options seemed better at the time. I guess it's good I didn't get it. I've always wanted to do the AFC ITC combo too. Thanks for the info. Guess I'll have to learn to hack my ECU instead. Bummer.
Gene
Gene
#18
Bump the base timing to 19*BTDC. I hope that when you guys bump the timing you do unplug the TPS and lock the car in timing mode (by reving over 3k 3 times). On the dyno I lost 2hp/3tq average with stock timing vs 4* advance. I've seen sr20de's gain around 2-5fwhp with timing advance.
#19
Originally posted by Nismo87SE
Bump the base timing to 19*BTDC. I hope that when you guys bump the timing you do unplug the TPS and lock the car in timing mode (by reving over 3k 3 times).
Bump the base timing to 19*BTDC. I hope that when you guys bump the timing you do unplug the TPS and lock the car in timing mode (by reving over 3k 3 times).
![Confused](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
#20
im lost with the btdc?
so you have to start ur car, unplug the throttle position sensor, and rev it up?
aslo, is there any chance of detonation occuring with just a 5 degree advance at high rpms?
i usually keep my car below 4k or 4500.
but sometimes i just let it go and would prefer not destroyin my engine
so you have to start ur car, unplug the throttle position sensor, and rev it up?
aslo, is there any chance of detonation occuring with just a 5 degree advance at high rpms?
i usually keep my car below 4k or 4500.
but sometimes i just let it go and would prefer not destroyin my engine
#21
as long as you run 89+ octane you'll be fine...I ran 25 degrees and everything was fine.
Originally posted by skatanic28
aslo, is there any chance of detonation occuring with just a 5 degree advance at high rpms?
aslo, is there any chance of detonation occuring with just a 5 degree advance at high rpms?
#22
I just read the manual and you're also supposed to disconnect the AAC valve. I've never disconnected either of them. I will try that tomorrow when I bump it back up. I've had it low to try to tune for high rpm, but I guess without cams, headers, and head work on this engine I'm not going to get anywhere after 6k.
Gene
Gene
#24
What are you refering to as good or bad? The idea of advance?...or the procedure for advancing it? Pretty much if you keep the engine in it's designed power band, then advance is good. If you want to get at the hp near the redline(which from what I've tried doesn't seem to be there(yet)), then don't advance.
As far as the procedure for doing it, it will definitely change the timing without disconnecting the sensors, but I'm hoping that doing it the correct way will possibly correct the extremely high idle when it's cold outside. I kinda doubt it though. I think the reason for disconnecting every thing is so that the ecu won't be playing with the timing when you're playing with it, thus giving you an inconsistent reading. I always just adjust mine a touch at a time and then go run it, so I doubt it will make a difference. But if you're using the light or listening for the idle up, then you need to disconnect the sensors....or at least that's what I suspect.
Gene
As far as the procedure for doing it, it will definitely change the timing without disconnecting the sensors, but I'm hoping that doing it the correct way will possibly correct the extremely high idle when it's cold outside. I kinda doubt it though. I think the reason for disconnecting every thing is so that the ecu won't be playing with the timing when you're playing with it, thus giving you an inconsistent reading. I always just adjust mine a touch at a time and then go run it, so I doubt it will make a difference. But if you're using the light or listening for the idle up, then you need to disconnect the sensors....or at least that's what I suspect.
Gene
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