View Poll Results: Which one is better?
Seafoam
16
72.73%
BG 44K
6
27.27%
Voters: 22. You may not vote on this poll
Seafoam VS BG 44K
01-09-2011, 09:28 PM
#44
jumpin' gigawatts! that's a definitely different price than when I bought it, of course that was about 8 or so years ago since I bought some :P and it was at about $8-$9 per can.
If you go to the dealer to buy (which is where I did), don't buy those "packages", which include the MOA oil cleaner, and air intake cleaner (that is if you're goal is to get the BG44K for your injectors)
Broken recorde warning: are you sure it's not a failed injector? measure the resistance... should be 12-14 ohms.
I used it though the brake booster line as well. What I did was use a small funnel in the booster line, then sprayed Seafoam into the funnel.
Funnels can be purchased from your WalMart, Checkers/O'Rileys, AutoZone, Lowe's, wherever.
Cheap spray bottle from the Dollar Tree/Walmart for $1.00
keep on the throttle just a bit to prevent the engine from dying out.
and good to go!
I'm must be the lucky ones that DIDN'T see much benefit from either BG44K or Seafoam.
Although, I must say that it was only about a year prior that I went through and cleaned my TB and upper plenum - so Seafoam might have only cleaned the lower-plenum, but that's it.
I saw no remarkable changes after using BG... other than peace-at-mind that my injectors are likely to be cleaner.
... and warning... to spread more controversy...
I heard that using Seafoam to clean the soot and gunk out of your Throttle bodies, air intakes, plenums, valves, etc, that you are susceptible to dirty/gunk up your spark plugs or your O2 sensors as the soot and gunk is broken off and pushed out your exhaust system. So, be wary!
But logically, this would only be on the first or so applications of Seafoam, where the most gunk would come out. So the advice was to do it when you're ready to replace your spark plugs or your affected O2 sensors. I'm just sayin'
If you go to the dealer to buy (which is where I did), don't buy those "packages", which include the MOA oil cleaner, and air intake cleaner (that is if you're goal is to get the BG44K for your injectors)
Broken recorde warning: are you sure it's not a failed injector? measure the resistance... should be 12-14 ohms.
Funnels can be purchased from your WalMart, Checkers/O'Rileys, AutoZone, Lowe's, wherever.
Cheap spray bottle from the Dollar Tree/Walmart for $1.00
keep on the throttle just a bit to prevent the engine from dying out.
and good to go!
Although, I must say that it was only about a year prior that I went through and cleaned my TB and upper plenum - so Seafoam might have only cleaned the lower-plenum, but that's it.
I saw no remarkable changes after using BG... other than peace-at-mind that my injectors are likely to be cleaner.
... and warning... to spread more controversy...
I heard that using Seafoam to clean the soot and gunk out of your Throttle bodies, air intakes, plenums, valves, etc, that you are susceptible to dirty/gunk up your spark plugs or your O2 sensors as the soot and gunk is broken off and pushed out your exhaust system. So, be wary!
But logically, this would only be on the first or so applications of Seafoam, where the most gunk would come out. So the advice was to do it when you're ready to replace your spark plugs or your affected O2 sensors. I'm just sayin'
Last edited by super32; 01-09-2011 at 09:33 PM.
01-09-2011, 11:17 PM
#45
01-10-2011, 09:20 AM
#47
you'll need:
ohm-meter or multi-meter (to measure reistance)
a small flat-head (to remove the metal-clip around the injector's electrical plug)
you might consider:
electrical cleaner aerosol can (to clean the injector terminals when you remove the plugs)
dielectric grease (to project the injector terminals before putting the plugs back in)
anyway - i didn't find a "step-by-step" on how to do this, but here's a look at what the injectors look like when you remove the electrical plug:
http://forums.maxima.org/7434871-post10.html
except that your injector will be IN the engine, and not out of it
also, i don't think your injector will have that metal rod sticking up past the terminal-plugs.
the 2 prongs you see (once you remove the electrical-plug atop the injector) is where you will put the multi-meter to measure resistance. Set your ohm-meter to about 0-200ohm sensitivity. doesn't matter which side you put + or -, since we're measureing simple resistance here.
i wish you good luck
ohm-meter or multi-meter (to measure reistance)
a small flat-head (to remove the metal-clip around the injector's electrical plug)
you might consider:
electrical cleaner aerosol can (to clean the injector terminals when you remove the plugs)
dielectric grease (to project the injector terminals before putting the plugs back in)
anyway - i didn't find a "step-by-step" on how to do this, but here's a look at what the injectors look like when you remove the electrical plug:
http://forums.maxima.org/7434871-post10.html
except that your injector will be IN the engine, and not out of it
also, i don't think your injector will have that metal rod sticking up past the terminal-plugs.
the 2 prongs you see (once you remove the electrical-plug atop the injector) is where you will put the multi-meter to measure resistance. Set your ohm-meter to about 0-200ohm sensitivity. doesn't matter which side you put + or -, since we're measureing simple resistance here.
i wish you good luck
01-10-2011, 09:45 AM
#48
you'll need:
ohm-meter or multi-meter (to measure reistance)
a small flat-head (to remove the metal-clip around the injector's electrical plug)
you might consider:
electrical cleaner aerosol can (to clean the injector terminals when you remove the plugs)
dielectric grease (to project the injector terminals before putting the plugs back in)
anyway - i didn't find a "step-by-step" on how to do this, but here's a look at what the injectors look like when you remove the electrical plug:
http://forums.maxima.org/7434871-post10.html
except that your injector will be IN the engine, and not out of it
also, i don't think your injector will have that metal rod sticking up past the terminal-plugs.
the 2 prongs you see (once you remove the electrical-plug atop the injector) is where you will put the multi-meter to measure resistance. Set your ohm-meter to about 0-200ohm sensitivity. doesn't matter which side you put + or -, since we're measureing simple resistance here.
i wish you good luck
ohm-meter or multi-meter (to measure reistance)
a small flat-head (to remove the metal-clip around the injector's electrical plug)
you might consider:
electrical cleaner aerosol can (to clean the injector terminals when you remove the plugs)
dielectric grease (to project the injector terminals before putting the plugs back in)
anyway - i didn't find a "step-by-step" on how to do this, but here's a look at what the injectors look like when you remove the electrical plug:
http://forums.maxima.org/7434871-post10.html
except that your injector will be IN the engine, and not out of it
also, i don't think your injector will have that metal rod sticking up past the terminal-plugs.
the 2 prongs you see (once you remove the electrical-plug atop the injector) is where you will put the multi-meter to measure resistance. Set your ohm-meter to about 0-200ohm sensitivity. doesn't matter which side you put + or -, since we're measureing simple resistance here.
i wish you good luck
i dont have a ohm meter so ill check online for one or walmart
06-16-2011, 09:35 PM
#49
bump*
i did a bottle of bg44k like 6 months ago and now i want to try seafoam.
how should i do this? thru the fuel only?
how much gas am i supposed have and do i let it sit overnight before i fill up?
if you know what ur talking bout plz help
i did a bottle of bg44k like 6 months ago and now i want to try seafoam.
how should i do this? thru the fuel only?
how much gas am i supposed have and do i let it sit overnight before i fill up?
if you know what ur talking bout plz help
06-18-2011, 07:01 PM
#52
IMO i think bg products are just a lil more thorough...you really can't compare these two being one has more applications than the other depending on which can of bg your using like for an induction services its like 3 different cans of bg products. That stuff is discharged as a fine mist when shops clean ur TB and such so it removes a great deal of carbon. I have used both products before and they both work well but bg just gave better results when i took my max on the highway.
06-18-2011, 07:26 PM
#53
i noticed a little more pick up but not so much be me like WOW OMG. there is a small vac hose going to the brake booster just unplug it let the vac line suck up some of the seafoam just dont let the engine stall out. 
pulled this pic off google since its the same engine i have, just loosen the screw on the hose and pull it off and make sure u cover it with ur finder to keep the suction and so the engine wont stall out on u then just let it suck up some seafoam
pulled this pic off google since its the same engine i have, just loosen the screw on the hose and pull it off and make sure u cover it with ur finder to keep the suction and so the engine wont stall out on u then just let it suck up some seafoam
06-18-2011, 08:03 PM
#54
i noticed a little more pick up but not so much be me like WOW OMG. there is a small vac hose going to the brake booster just unplug it let the vac line suck up some of the seafoam just dont let the engine stall out.
pulled this pic off google since its the same engine i have, just loosen the screw on the hose and pull it off and make sure u cover it with ur finder to keep the suction and so the engine wont stall out on u then just let it suck up some seafoam
pulled this pic off google since its the same engine i have, just loosen the screw on the hose and pull it off and make sure u cover it with ur finder to keep the suction and so the engine wont stall out on u then just let it suck up some seafoam
06-20-2011, 03:03 PM
#55
The problem is that it's REAL easy to slip and dunk the end of the tube into the bottle. also depending on how the car is parked (on a slope/hill), it's possible for the stuff to puddle in the hose or intake manifold and then all get sucked down at once. that's what happened on the customer's car I had. was going nice and slow and then *SLUUURP BANG! clack clack clack clack* 
06-20-2011, 04:26 PM
#56
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: North West Missouri
Posts: 202
Well, I really like a product available at most Yamaha dealers - it is called "Ring Free" and it does a heck of a job.
It can be used a couple of ways, one being 1 oz per 10 gallons of fuel for maintenance, and it can be felt almost immediately.
The other truly cleans carbon and the entire system, but as with others, the oil should be changed as well as the spark plugs.
Plus, it is designed to work with the alcohol laced fuels we are currently being punished with.....
Here is a carb bowl from a ATV recently brought into the shop, owner said it did not run real well, no miracle additive would of fixed this one....
It can be used a couple of ways, one being 1 oz per 10 gallons of fuel for maintenance, and it can be felt almost immediately.
The other truly cleans carbon and the entire system, but as with others, the oil should be changed as well as the spark plugs.
Plus, it is designed to work with the alcohol laced fuels we are currently being punished with.....
Here is a carb bowl from a ATV recently brought into the shop, owner said it did not run real well, no miracle additive would of fixed this one....
06-20-2011, 04:59 PM
#57
^
what the hell is that?
I wouldnt bother with seafoam or anything any more unless you want to have fun driving down the street with a bunch of smoke come out the back. Seafoam especially if you are going to use that you might want to throw some non foulers on your O2 sensors, all stuff that is thrown through the exhaust is known to take o2 sensors out.
There really isnt much of any benefit. The only thing worth while to do as far as cleaning is make sure your maf and throttle body is clean and keep up with your fuel filter changes. If you use quality gas(BP, shell, chevron, hess, etc.) they already have additives in their gas to keep everything running clean. Everything else is really just to get you for your money, and the placebo effect.
what the hell is that?I wouldnt bother with seafoam or anything any more unless you want to have fun driving down the street with a bunch of smoke come out the back. Seafoam especially if you are going to use that you might want to throw some non foulers on your O2 sensors, all stuff that is thrown through the exhaust is known to take o2 sensors out.
There really isnt much of any benefit. The only thing worth while to do as far as cleaning is make sure your maf and throttle body is clean and keep up with your fuel filter changes. If you use quality gas(BP, shell, chevron, hess, etc.) they already have additives in their gas to keep everything running clean. Everything else is really just to get you for your money, and the placebo effect.
06-20-2011, 05:16 PM
#58
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 60
Ive used seafoam before. The video shows how i did it.
I put half in the intake and the other half in the gas tank, none in the crankcase. I just used the brake booster line, she tried to die on me a few times but i just plugged it with my thumb and all was ok.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMYNTKNDdDU
I put half in the intake and the other half in the gas tank, none in the crankcase. I just used the brake booster line, she tried to die on me a few times but i just plugged it with my thumb and all was ok.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMYNTKNDdDU
07-02-2011, 08:59 PM
#59
Taking my Maxima to the Max!
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Alachua, FL 32615
Posts: 1,096
Just put about 2/3 bottle of Seafoam in the crankcase of my 1998 Volvo V70 when doing an oil change (6.1 qts). The oil is so clean it is hard to see on the dip stick and the engine sounded like it is running very smooth. The bottle says it can be left in for long term cleaning. Is this a good idea, or should I drain it and do another oil change?
Also, I've been having a coolant leak issue with the heater hoses and was on my way back from the autoparts store after just buying new hoses. The car seemed to overheat and the engine died, and I just want to make sure it wasn't something to do with the seafoam in the oil. I am letting it cool overnight and will see if it runs better tomorrow with some fixed hoses and enough coolant. Thanks.
Also, I've been having a coolant leak issue with the heater hoses and was on my way back from the autoparts store after just buying new hoses. The car seemed to overheat and the engine died, and I just want to make sure it wasn't something to do with the seafoam in the oil. I am letting it cool overnight and will see if it runs better tomorrow with some fixed hoses and enough coolant. Thanks.
07-05-2011, 05:20 PM
#61
Taking my Maxima to the Max!
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Alachua, FL 32615
Posts: 1,096
It turns out that the Volvo was just low on gas. After fixing the heater hoses, filling it with new coolant, and filling it up with Premium gas, it runs like a top. It seems with the new oil and seafoam in the crankcase the engine revs a lot quicker and more smoothly. It may have something to do with the turbo working better with new vacuum hoses and clamps. Anyway, anyone have an opinion about leaving the seafoam in the engine for a while? It probably only has 15 miles on it so far.
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