i put in some lowering springs to my 89 max, and the right rear tire dident lower, but the rest did. hmm. what could be the problem?

 

Sum Pics 2 help....

 

how can i take pics if its all together??? lol. I made sure it was in the cups right, i dident tighten the control arms untill after the car was down, and everything is together right. Bad spring?

 

Pics of the car, how it sits, take off wheel, underneath .... And why are you lowering a rusted leaker, that's one of the last things you should be doing. Did u just install springs, no struts or strut mounts, ball joints, control arms, bushings, ect....... I would get the motor 100% first then the rust corrosion, paint and then do the suspension/suspension modifications. You need to slow down a little and focus on 1 thing at a time but you don't take suggestions well so I'm just wasting my time.

 

okayyy ill put pics up with the rustt picturess

 

What brand springs?

 

did you put the front spring in the rear? Also has it settled? Cars will look all 4x4 ish after being jacked up until they get jiggled a bit.

 

i cant see it needing to settle that much. when i got mine done, i did the 2" drop springs, new control arms, new tie rods, new ball joints, and some brake work and in the end he said that the springs had like 1mm to settle and to drive easy for 5 hours and it'll fix itself. i had rust around too but he was able to get it all out. it looked as low and handled as good from 0 hours of road time on the drop to around 30 now

if you want to fix a ruster/leaker, go for it. mine was rusty and leaky but its fixed now. i cant see why the right rear is still high, is the strut okay?

 

Very cheap ebay springs, from drop zone

 

nooo the front springs are way bigger. and yes its settled

 

^^^ Best Post ^^^
this is the last thing i need to do to make it stop being leaky is valve covers and oil pan. But yea, the struts were all fine. it did drop like an inch last night...

 

and if thats your car, its rusting the same spots as mine

 

its best to get good springs, i didnt think that it really mattered either but just googling some cheaper brands and hearing about the problems its best to stay Eibach/Ksport/etc

 

i found some on sale eibach ones a while ago for 89 bucks, but just dident have the money, i knew eibach was good, so i figured the ones i just got for 89 bucks were just as good, but, i found out it is

 

the surface rust i had or suspension rust? either way both had bad rust, the bodywork me and someone else did ourselves and the suspension my mechanic installed. the bodywork is easy but time consuming, suspension rust is HELL. he said some of the bolts are rare to find now, so he had to heat up the bolts, grease them, and slowly turn them because you cant afford to break one. some bolts had rust all of the way through, the whole bit. he literally went through hell to get it done

ive got a engine leak as well, and a power steering leak. both need to be fixed before i can get into racing so the PS system is getting replaced next year and the oil leak is getting fixed.

 

yea, after this it will stop leaking. But i first did a ball joint, i heated um up, PB blasted it all, used be wax, pounded on sockets that were to small, punt on my half inch with a 4 foot long pipe, and either stripped, broke the socket, or fell off. ended up cutting off 2 and one came off with a vice grips. same went with the lowering kit. Just cut um off and pounded um through. it sucked so bad.

 

and i did all my body work myself. it aint hard, like you said. just takes a month, if you wana do it right.

 

if you can, get pics of the side thats still high

 

Is it possible that strut is stuck? my two rear struts are blow so the car just sits low for now but check that out or it might just be like my dad would say U GET WHAT U PAID FOR... cant expect them to be perfect... but idk hope u get it workd out

 

i think im gettin what i paid for lol. the car bounces fine. i can push it down so the wheel is in the wheel well. how do i post pics on a thread?

 

take the pics, transfer the pics from the camera to computer, go to photbucket.com or tinypic.com and make an account, upload the picture files, copy the picture file links, start a new post, hit the yellow/grey mountain icon, paste in the picture file link from photobucket or whatever and thats it

 

Here i found out how to do it. and i did urethane motor and tranny mounts. is that bad?



Some of those are for another post, the rust pics. but the first spring pic is the front. but the second one is the one im havin troubles with, its not as high as it looks, but its about at stock height now. and since im puttin up pics heres some before and after of the maxi pad.

 

I got a different steering wheel also. ill put up some complete pics later.

 

Lol sorry there sideways. but anyways, let me know what ya think

 

everyone says urethane are good

BTW looks good, not a fan of the exhaust (looks like it sticks out far), the grille, or the black door guards but not bad

 

Looks like drivers side rear wheel well is loaded with bondo.

 

Yea but ive been reading not to do both, only motor or tranny. But thanks, and the exhaust dont stick out that far any more. i got a new exhaust since then. dont like the grille? and i dident know any other color for the door gaurds.

 

its not, the quarter panel is for sure, but dident bondo the wheel well. just left it. Im buyin fendor trim today to fix that, and posibly a side skirt.

 

yeah done overdo it with the Bondo. use metal whenever possible

this side on my 3rd gen was the worst, eaten through on the wheel well and where that plate is hanging. the plate was riveted but last winters rust got to it. for the wheel well, i just curved some metal and Bondo'd over it. i dont care what it looks like, it functions lol. the white haze wipes off, i think dust just gets into the paint because the paints rough where the work was done

 

Wow i would have never spent the time to paint that car without atleast atempting to fix all of the rusted areas...that looks terrible. All you did is make the rust move faster because now the paint is trapping all the moisture in but hey its ur car. I wouldnt even waste my time with the wheel well trim and side skirts, save ur money for a new rust free shell..

 

My dude, you really should have waited on the paint job, really!! Paint is the last thing you do to a project, I know it looked like shyt but that's part of the process. Your going to have to do the body work all the fuuck over in the end. Nobody wants to drive a rust bucket aroung but painting over poor body work is even worse. This is all constructive criticism, don't take it to heart, just leave the body alone for now and get her running perfect/get suspension riding right and then get the body work done by some one who knows what there doing and then get a real paint job. This is going to take alot of cheddar, many hours of labor and patience my dude. It will all be worth it in the end if your Max is done properly, just look at some of the cherry 3rd gen Maxima's on this forum alone. Start asking some of these members how long it took them to get there ride's running/looking the way the pictured it in there mind's.

 

lol you guyss are crazyy. Maximas arent worth the time. there **** lol. but, its my first car, if i had i choice i would not be driving a maxi pad.

 

you aren't worth the time.
Bye.

 

you aren't worth the time.
Bye.

 

not my fault you guys dont know what real cars are lol. nissans werent meant to have this done to um. im dumb for puttin as much as i did into the **** car, and youve all spent wayyy more then me lol

 

Your Maxima is the piece of Shiiit!!! Don't get mad cause you don't have a fuuckin' clue what your doing Mechanically. If U wanna pop shiit come 2 NY and we'll see what's really good!!!

 

lawd