Replacing rack and pinion boot..
#1
Replacing rack and pinion boot..
Hey guys, was just wondering whats involved in this one.
1)Do you basically just disconnect the outer tie-rod end, and slip the old boot off and slip the new one right over everything without messing with the alignment? And does any grease need to be packed into it? If so, what kind?
2)And the second thing, if the boot has been torn for sometime now and my friend kept driving around that way without it being greased and protected, is the rack and pinion still okay? Once I would replace the boot and regrease, it would stop making that grinding sound, right?
Thanks
1)Do you basically just disconnect the outer tie-rod end, and slip the old boot off and slip the new one right over everything without messing with the alignment? And does any grease need to be packed into it? If so, what kind?
2)And the second thing, if the boot has been torn for sometime now and my friend kept driving around that way without it being greased and protected, is the rack and pinion still okay? Once I would replace the boot and regrease, it would stop making that grinding sound, right?
Thanks
#2
#3
As long as there isn't any oil leaking from the rack where the rod comes out, just clean all the dirt off of the rod and put the new boot on. You don't have to grease or oil anything because the rod gets lubricated as it slides in and out of the rack.
The grinding noise could be from low oil in the reservour. At the very easiest, noises are hard to diagnose in print.
The grinding noise could be from low oil in the reservour. At the very easiest, noises are hard to diagnose in print.
#5
I'm not sure you'd be able to get them on OVER the tie rod ends.. But I guess with enough stretching I guess you could.. When i replaced my tie rod ends I put new boots on first. And be sure to get some good ones otherwise they'll just break/crack within a few thousand miles. Mine are already screwed up after not even 5k miles.. But then again I bought the cheapest ones I could find
#6
I'm not sure you'd be able to get them on OVER the tie rod ends.. But I guess with enough stretching I guess you could.. When i replaced my tie rod ends I put new boots on first. And be sure to get some good ones otherwise they'll just break/crack within a few thousand miles. Mine are already screwed up after not even 5k miles.. But then again I bought the cheapest ones I could find
#10
I just did this last week. You will have to take the outer tie rod off to get the boot on. Just mark exactly where it is so u will know in reference where it goes. Oh its best to replace things in pairs but if budget doesn't allow then you'll have to make do.
#12
i didnt want to start a new thread on this same subject but i was just wondering if this tire wear points to the rack. or maybe a tie rod end?.. i just need some help as to where i can look for the culprit. lol
passenger side tire
driver side.
LCA bushing.. and a leaf. lol
rack boot. passenger side
passenger side tire
driver side.
LCA bushing.. and a leaf. lol
rack boot. passenger side
#15
lots of threads on this subject....search search search........
#17
so im looking at these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Low...Q5fAccessories
im curious. do i need to take the cv axle in to put the new BJ in there? also. i read in the 4th gen section that different brands are harder to put in the knuckle. whats the general concensus with the BJs included with the LCAs? or for that matter, the whole LCA. lol.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Low...Q5fAccessories
im curious. do i need to take the cv axle in to put the new BJ in there? also. i read in the 4th gen section that different brands are harder to put in the knuckle. whats the general concensus with the BJs included with the LCAs? or for that matter, the whole LCA. lol.
#19
heh thanks for the welcome! nd sorry wasnt rly thinking that way but yeah also wut maximo said
#20
so im looking at these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Low...Q5fAccessories
im curious. do i need to take the cv axle in to put the new BJ in there? also. i read in the 4th gen section that different brands are harder to put in the knuckle. whats the general concensus with the BJs included with the LCAs? or for that matter, the whole LCA. lol.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Low...Q5fAccessories
im curious. do i need to take the cv axle in to put the new BJ in there? also. i read in the 4th gen section that different brands are harder to put in the knuckle. whats the general concensus with the BJs included with the LCAs? or for that matter, the whole LCA. lol.
all the ball joints and lca will be about the same, has been my experience.
oh, and wayne has always been nice, unless you are a complete nooblet (think robertzilla)
#21
4Th gen energy suspension bushings plus paying machine shop to remove old bushings and press new ones bout 100 dollars both sides. Ball joints brand new life time warranty at a parts store like what $60 for both. So round 200 dollars at most for bushings aftermarkets Polyurothane at that and ball joints.
Last edited by elusivemax93; 11-15-2010 at 01:21 PM.
#23
Lmfao ok the bushings on the control arm in his pics show the bushings deteriorating from oils eating away at the factory rubber. Worn out bushings can effect the toe or caster of the suspension. Now yes we all know that our cars do not have adjustable caster but with blown out bushings all for the second section of the control arm can move forward and backwards.
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