Hey guys, was just wondering whats involved in this one.

1)Do you basically just disconnect the outer tie-rod end, and slip the old boot off and slip the new one right over everything without messing with the alignment? And does any grease need to be packed into it? If so, what kind?

2)And the second thing, if the boot has been torn for sometime now and my friend kept driving around that way without it being greased and protected, is the rack and pinion still okay? Once I would replace the boot and regrease, it would stop making that grinding sound, right?

Thanks

 

We need much more info. But my rule of thumb is to just replace the offending part and be done with it.

 

As long as there isn't any oil leaking from the rack where the rod comes out, just clean all the dirt off of the rod and put the new boot on. You don't have to grease or oil anything because the rod gets lubricated as it slides in and out of the rack.

The grinding noise could be from low oil in the reservour. At the very easiest, noises are hard to diagnose in print.

 

Thanks guys, so it basically just slides over the tie-rod end, correct?

 

I'm not sure you'd be able to get them on OVER the tie rod ends.. But I guess with enough stretching I guess you could.. When i replaced my tie rod ends I put new boots on first. And be sure to get some good ones otherwise they'll just break/crack within a few thousand miles. Mine are already screwed up after not even 5k miles.. But then again I bought the cheapest ones I could find

 

Thanks for the heads up James, I appreciate it. I'll try to get my friend to buy some quality boots.

 

Yeah I had to learn that the hard way too..mine are cracked after replacing them under 5k too

 

Also shouldn't it be around time that you change the boot on the other side too? I say just cause I replaced mine at the same time

 

Thats good practice bklynsmoe3, but not everyone is in the best financial standing, so you can only replace what you can afford. Post pics up of your VE and welcome to the forum.

 

I just did this last week. You will have to take the outer tie rod off to get the boot on. Just mark exactly where it is so u will know in reference where it goes. Oh its best to replace things in pairs but if budget doesn't allow then you'll have to make do.

 

 

i didnt want to start a new thread on this same subject but i was just wondering if this tire wear points to the rack. or maybe a tie rod end?.. i just need some help as to where i can look for the culprit. lol


passenger side tire



driver side.


LCA bushing.. and a leaf. lol


rack boot. passenger side

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^
the lca is your culprit.........

 

damn is that right?.. fawwkk.. how hard is it to change that bushing?

 

You have two choices....buy a complete lca assembly on ebay with new rubber bushings already installed...or you can burn or cut the old bushings out and install poly bushings...

lots of threads on this subject....search search search........

 

yeah i was about to go ahead and do that anyways. haha. thanks greeny. glad youre not a **** anymore.. lmao.

 

so im looking at these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Low...Q5fAccessories

im curious. do i need to take the cv axle in to put the new BJ in there? also. i read in the 4th gen section that different brands are harder to put in the knuckle. whats the general concensus with the BJs included with the LCAs? or for that matter, the whole LCA. lol.

 

Wrong answer the control arms on the 3rd gens are four nuts to unbolt the ball joint from the control arm. and the spindle/knuckle.

 

heh thanks for the welcome! nd sorry wasnt rly thinking that way but yeah also wut maximo said

 

the only reason not to pull the axle out would be to avoid needing an alignment later, but your alignment is f00kt, anyway. you will save your self some swearing by just doing it the "normal" way...

all the ball joints and lca will be about the same, has been my experience.
oh, and wayne has always been nice, unless you are a complete nooblet (think robertzilla)

 

4Th gen energy suspension bushings plus paying machine shop to remove old bushings and press new ones bout 100 dollars both sides. Ball joints brand new life time warranty at a parts store like what $60 for both. So round 200 dollars at most for bushings aftermarkets Polyurothane at that and ball joints.

 

I have experience this on my car. I'm not sure I replaced the bushing (Need to check my maintenance records) but how is the LCA responsible for this tire wear?

 

Lmfao ok the bushings on the control arm in his pics show the bushings deteriorating from oils eating away at the factory rubber. Worn out bushings can effect the toe or caster of the suspension. Now yes we all know that our cars do not have adjustable caster but with blown out bushings all for the second section of the control arm can move forward and backwards.

 

Sorry, I wasn't clear on my question, how does it cause the ("toe" I think) tire wear. The outside of my tires shows signs of wear. Or is this a different topic?