coolsun

iTrader: (10)

Well i have posted numerous times before for the past years about my power steering issues. Now heres another one. First Off i have a new pump and high pressure hose put in. Then i bleed the system and dropped to the ground. When i turn the wheel it makes a groaning sound. I see that the top part of the high pressure hose vibrates as it groans when i turn it.

The issue cant be the pump as i went back to the store Multiple times to get a replacement since it was free. And i replaced the hose. Also all the belts and pullys are new as of last month. So can it be the power steering switch/solenoid which is where the top part of the high pressure hose is? or am i getting bad pumps? Its annoying how it groans on every little move when traveling slow.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

How long did you bleed it for? In my experience it takes forrrrrrever to bleed properly.

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

i thought your just suppose to turn left n right a few times in the air n on the ground

LvR

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...placement.html

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

hmm i didnt know this, then which brand of hose should i get? But the old hose that i had taken out was an aftermarket too and it did not make a peep until i changed the pump.

also my new hose also came with this yellow cap where i didnt know where it goes

LvR

Aftermarket is fine ............ as long as there is a restrictor on there. If the new hose don't have it on there ................. well you know what to do.

I cannot explain why the NEW pump is noisy even with the old NON-NOISY hose - all I know is you need the restrictor - after that it is a question of you having the motor there and I don't.

Yellow cap? ................ pic?

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

so i have to find a hose with a restrictor on it? I was thinking that the powersteering switch can be jammed as a possibility,since it feeds the oil down to the smaller lines as a cooler.

i dont have an actual pic right now but this is what i got from autozone. Its like a toothpaste cap

LvR

Think the plastic thing gets filed in the rubbish bin - its neither needed nor part of the problem or solution

That switch is a simple electric feedback for the ECU to compensate idling speed on turn of the wheels (load sense)

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

ohh i see. Hmm

Can other chime in on what brand of power steering hose they are using?

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

I would go OEM and be done with it. Aftermarket usually have a too small orpheus therefore causing the noise.

LvR

That is why the restrictor is put on the rubber part of the hose and its not incorporated (as my logic would dictate) into the banjo couplings on the ends of the hose - the rubber absorbs the rushing-flow ATF noise created inside the restrictor

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

It takes much more than "a few times". If you only did it a "few times" each way I would do it again if I were you, especially before going on wild goose chases on other things. In my experience, it seriously takes like 30-50 times and slowly gets better the more you do it. Make sure to gently touch lock to lock on each side too

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

Damn, I wish I would have seen this thread before discarding my OEM hose for a Autozone hose. No biggie, I will inspect the Autozone hose for this restrictor.

I can promise you, the same hose that's pictured in this thread is the same hose that being sold by most parts store. Autozone, Discount, Napa, it doesn't matter. These hoses are being mass produced, packaged differently and sold to many suppliers.

If my Autozone hose doesn't have the restrictor, I'll probably go the the salvage yard and cut one out. Bring my Autozone hose to a local hose rebuilder and have them install the restrictor.

LvR

As James rightly said there - only once you have exhausted the obvious air/bleeding issues should you start looking for the more serious stuff - chances are however that like so many others that got sorted via the restrictor route you may find eternal bliss that way too. Me? ......... the vehicles I replaced the HP hoses on all bled within 10s of seconds if the reservoir is kept full and if the hose is right its basically quiet from engine first start No can do ................ its a chunk of metal with an inside diameter bigger than the outside diameter of the rubber hose - it gets located and then crimped on there as a permanent fixture - once crimped it cannot be relocated

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to paste the pic you posted in the other thread so everyone knows what you're refering to

restrictor.jpg?t=1254251268

What I meant to say is, go to salvage yard, cut out restrictor with at least 2-3 inches of hose on both side of restrictor, bring Autozone hose to rebuilder and have them cut and crimp in salvage restrictor/hose. Of course this is all dependant on final cost. BTW, I'm with you on bleeding the system. All power steering systems I've repaired usually bleed itself with 30-40 seconds of lock to lock steering. Nissan included.

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

Ohh man the OEM one is $140

LvR

I think thats false economy - if the hose rubber is such that you would consider your action then I would say take the whole hose - if you cut the "good part out of a rubber hose containing the restrictor" and parts of the rest of the hose is garbage, then I wouldn't trust the transplant to last.............. apart from then also having to pay for 2 joints

I would think that if you don't have a restrictor on a fresh hose its gonna be cheapest to have them cut off one end, fit a restrictor properly on the fresh rubber, and then refit the end again.


coolsun - the last non-OEM hose like that I had made-up, cost me about half the OEM's price

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

You're probably correct with the false economy. When a hose start to leak, it's usually the crimp at the banjo fitting that leaks. Not the hose itself. First I need to verify if my new hose has the restrictor, then I'll go from there. Thanks.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

I guess I got lucky and found several new HP p/s hoses @ the junkyard.....Alot of these cars were repaired and the customer/owner have one more little problem then toss the car because their ignorant and fustrated!!!!
Once you get your system back together top it off and cycle the steering gear left too right until the noise stops! remember to keep checking your fluid level once the air is worked out of the system! Make sure your p/s belt is tight!
I recently modified me a deep 14 mm socket into a medium deep socket so I can use a 3/8" racket wrench in that confined space with ease when loosening the 2 swivel bolts....

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

checked my hose has the restrictor under the foil

LvR

IMO the miseries started with the replacement pump then? ................. should have stopped right there and kept replacing the pump under guarantee. Nothing else to do since you now have a new hose with a proper restrictor on there too.

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

well the old hose broke, n i have tried on 3 newly re manufactured pumps.

LvR

Somehow you need to eliminate one then (hose broke same you replaced the pump and you replaced both at the same time?) .................. get (borrow as experiment) a known quiet hose off another running vehicle to eliminate either the hose or the pump.

Really not much more you can do atm

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

Alright Thanks for your help. Im going to let it run for a month see if it needs to bleed out longer also. An then order me a OEM hose when my funds come in.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Good idea.

almaxi

I have to change the pressure hose along the Firewall. Banjo bolt at the top is 15/16", easy to get loose. I can't get to the bolt on the PS pump. I can see that is another Banjo bolt of the same size. Any tricks out there?

fotoman

A mechanic friend of mine replaced mine with a hose from NAPA, (about $58 dollars i think) it took a week for them to order it from some foreign car parts place he was using. The first hose they gave him had the connectors at each end of the hose going in different directions. He took my original hose off and took it to the auto parts place to get an exact match.

btw - I still have the little yellow cap that came with it in the plastic bag it came in with my spare thing a ma gigs do not need it as of yet?

Also the mechanic said my nissan maxima was a 1994 car made with 1993 parts - this was determined by a VIN number.

Anyway he had to do the repair in my driveway because my hi pressure steering hose was ruptured (no ask how) lets just say I tried to seal the leak with a multitude of items with NO long term success, including using a bike rubber tire patch.

Anyway the hardest part was taking the bolt off the top - very tight! As he didnt want to damage the connection by applying too much pressure to untighten the bolt. He/we managed to get it untightened. Then he had similar problems removing the bottom bolt. Mostly because since he wasnt at his shop the car wasnot up on a rack and he had to remove the bolt while on his back.

It was a hassle also to attach and tighten the 2 bolts on the new hose - but he finally got it done. Then when he put power steering fluid in because with my last fix ALL the power steering fluid came out - lucky I was at home in the driveway.

ANYWAY when I turned the wheels I never heard the car make that much noise! The hose was making a weird nose and when I turned the wheels - they could hear the moaning and groaning across the street. There was no way I was driving that car anywhere!

ONCE we put in enough power steering the moaning and groaning went ahead and the power steering worked. I still get a little air pressure like noise when I start the car and a little noise as I am driving when I turn the wheels but nothing like the whining or groaning....

The next thing my mechanic noticed was that my valves were leaking oil causing the car to smoke as oil dripped down on the manifold. And i do mean smoke - after about 5 minutes you could begin to smoke a chicken if we kept the motor going.

So once again we had to wait for the valve gaskets to come in and he replaced the rear gaskets and we went up to car wash and washed the motor off good. That solved the smoking problem and no leaks - at least in the back for now. He said he had too much to remove to put in the front gaskets until after the holidays.

So far after a week no power steering problems or leaks. I cant tell you how much money i have spent on power steering fluid, stop leak, etc.... Just get the hose repaired or replaced is the cheapest solution - if its leaking.

fotoman

You need wiggle room....

As i stated below my mechanic suggests the car be in the air on an elevated rack. that way you have more room to work with than if you are on your back on the ground. If the hose has never been replaced the bolt is going to be TIGHT! and you may have to hit the tool you are unscrewing the bolt with, you may need a hammer to help loosen it.

said the spot you are trying to reach is in a tight spot too. I do remember him saying the wrench he need was almost one inch to fit over the top of the bolt that needed untighting - think it was 15/16th or something

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

I hope you are using ATF on the power steering as the FSM says to use. If not, drain it all and replace it with ATF.

I had an aftermarket pressure hose installed and had to tolerate the moaning noise for over three years. When my trans had to be rebuilt again over 3 months ago, I decided to get the OEM pressure hose from the dealer and replace it while it was out of commission. Yeah it's expensive, but man that moaning noise going away was SO worth it IMO.

And yeah, the bolts that hold the pressure hose is 15/16". I found it odd that it was not metric.