Hello,

I have a 92 Maxima and recently the #6 cylinder isn't working. The car is shaking badly and has lost power. I am thinking this is a fuel problem. I checked the plugs and wires and they are all fine and working properly. My next step is to check the injector connector to #6. I hope the injector itself isn't toast. I am open to any ideas and appreciate any advice you guys may have on this issue. Thanks

 

You can check the resistance of the injector with a multimeter, it should be somewhere between 11-14Ω. If it does happen to be bad you'll have to pull the plenum to replace it.

 

Is it fairly difficult to replace the injectors?

 

I guess it depends on how comfortable you are working with cars. I wouldn't really call it difficult, but the first time around it can be pretty time consuming. There was just a thread about this where someone replaced their injectors and he had it off in half an hour, the thread also had links to older threads with more detailed instructions.

Just order all the gaskets and parts you'll need, take your time while removing things and label hoses/electrical connectors if you need to so you can remember where they go.

 

So i checked the injectors and they are reading between 11 & 14 Ohms. When i pull the plug wire or the injector wire off of #6 the idle doesn't change speed so I know that cylinder isn't working. Could it be the wire that runs to the injector? How do I test that? This is getting frustrating. The check engine light has never come on so I am unsure if an OBD 1 reader would display a trouble code?

 

Is it an VE or a VG?

If it's a VE either coil pack or knock sensor. IMO; Go with the coil first.

 

Check compression first!

 

I used the self diagnostic modes on the ECU and it flashes 55, which is no errors. I am going to check the compression and see if that cylinder is dead.

 

Im getting good compression. Im not sure what to do. I am giving it a tune up tomorrow to see if it helps. I checked the plugs though and they looked fine.

 

Do you have a noid tester? Can you verify that the injector is receiving a signal from the computer?

 

No I don't have a noid tester.

 

I notice that the car runs great when it is cold but as soon as it warms up it starts to run rough.

 

You say you checked the spark plugs and wires, how did you check them? Visually? When was the last time the car had a tuneup? If it hasn't been done in a while, I'd look further into that.

Have you tried swapping the plug and wire out of #6 to a properly working cylinder to see if the miss travels?

Also, it couldn't hurt to slap a new Cap/Rotor/Plugs/Wires on there. Go OEM on the cap 'n rotor and stick some NGK plugs and wires on it.

 

Measure the resistance on #6 before (cold) and once the missing starts! You can make a noid light using a small bulb and wire...

 

If you have good spark you will have a bright blue spark from plug
If spark color is real light blue, orange, or yellow you have weak spark ( replace)

Do tune up .

Can take a cut off wooden broom stick or something similar.(old school) Place one end to the injector and other to your ear ( While engine is running ) and listen to each injector fire that way. Compare the other injectors sound to #6.

I made a plug from another engine harness. So I could plug it to each injector and hook one wire to ground and very briefly tap the other to the positive the hear the injector click while engine is off. If it fails to click then you have a dead injector.

If all checks out including what was posted above . Injector could be malfunctioning or stopped up.