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Old 04-28-2013 | 01:34 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by James92SE
I'm not sure about kurtzer but I think he somehow pulled that joint where it's effectively locked. This can be done if it's kinked over and then "jammed" so to speak - I've done that before with an axle once while stored in the garage during downtime. I was moving crap around and slid a toolbox up against it and it flexed the joint and then jammed it. Not separated but on the verge of it. Theoretically it will push back in. I wasn't able to push mine back in though and had to buy a new one. I didn't manhandle it though. It probably would have gone back in.

Tony - pull that axle and see if the outer joint is "locked". It should be able to turn/bend freely in all directions. But I bet yours doesn't. If not, fool with it to see if you can get the joint moving properly. You'll have to pull the axle anyway to replace it so you're not out anything.
Also.... Tony try to see if grabbing the axle by the shaft allows you to move the shaft in any direction (up/down, side to side, front/back) as if it's loose.

If it were locked, then it wouldn't allow him to spin the wheel at all would it? I can only see a joint being bent enough to lock it if you had removed it from the hub, but he never did that. I think he just has partial engagement of the shaft-to-inner-race splines due to hyperextending the axle joint when removing the strut. The rubber boot is probably just enough tension to pull the splines together in the air, but not when the car is on the ground.

the inner joint is held in with a snap ring near the edge of the tracks so there is a finite limit to how far it can extend.



Plus the bearing holds the inner joint in place so it can't leave the transmission.

The outer joint is just held onto the axle shaft with a c-clip (same as what holds the axle inside the transmission) but can be removed with a hammer or even smooth linear force. So if he was pushing down on the hubs, he might have had enough leverage to smoothly unseat the shaft from the outer joint after taking up all the available freeplay in the inner joint. This would ALSO explain why his outer-joint boot looks so stretched, and the axle doesn't look to be aimed at the proper center of the joint either.


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Last edited by CapedCadaver; 04-28-2013 at 01:52 PM.
Old 04-28-2013 | 01:41 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
Do you have the tools to replace the axle? 36mm axle nut socket, a 1/2" drive torque wrench (to approximate the tightening torque for the 36mm nut assuming that a 150lb/ft click plus an extra shove = 230lb/ft that it requires), a big-**** breaker bar to loosen the nut, a screwdriver to jam into the rotor vent thru the hole in the caliper while loosening, etc.

If you already have all that, then might as well try and get the axle nut loose now, and get your current axle free from the hub. Then disconnect the strut bolts from the knuckle, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and lock it there, and you should then be able to get the axle out of the hub and the hub out of your way.



After that it will be easier to manipulate the axle and joint so that you can try and get them lined up again, and see if it will just push itself back on. Or at least line up good enough to get a hammer on the end (with a wooden block to protect the threads... or maybe the axle nut threaded on to protect the threads) and drive it back on.

If that fails, then you're already gonna be most of the way home in terms of removing the axle, which you'll have to do to install a new one.

Either way, you have to get new cotter pin for the nut retainer.
Autozone will rent you the 36 mm for free, but you might as well buy it in my opinion. Axles are $59.99 last time I checked, plus core charge. Just my opinion here, but I would go ahead and buy new ones if you are having any trouble at all. Honestly I just can't see going through the trouble of trying to put them back together.

When removing the Nut on the end of the axle, an impact gun works well if The car is in the air. if you dont have an impact gun you have to break them loose on the ground. if whatever wheels you have do not have an exposed center bore, you can use the mini spare. It's very important when you put it all back together to get this nut tight or else you will ruin your wheel bearings. If you do not have a torque wrench, use a breaker bar, put the car on the ground and tighten the **** out of it.
Old 04-28-2013 | 01:55 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by maxima278
Autozone will rent you the 36 mm for free, but you might as well buy it in my opinion. Axles are $59.99 last time I checked, plus core charge. Just my opinion here, but I would go ahead and buy new ones if you are having any trouble at all. Honestly I just can't see going through the trouble of trying to put them back together.

When removing the Nut on the end of the axle, an impact gun works well if The car is in the air. if you dont have an impact gun you have to break them loose on the ground. if whatever wheels you have do not have an exposed center bore, you can use the mini spare. It's very important when you put it all back together to get this nut tight or else you will ruin your wheel bearings. If you do not have a torque wrench, use a breaker bar, put the car on the ground and tighten the **** out of it.
to avoid having to drain/refill the tranmission and install a new axle seal on the passenger side of the transmission while it's still on the car. And to save money if all he has to do is pop the joint back onto the shaft.
Old 04-28-2013 | 05:16 PM
  #44  
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thanks everyone for your help. i took the time today to take out the cv axle out and notice that the outer boot joint pop out of place smh. its was crazy, as soon as i discounted the ziptie from the outer boot the outer cv joint assembly just fell off the shaft. the boot was holding it in place smh. i try to pop it back in but i notice it was really damage. so i order a new axle. now i have to wait till tuesday for it to get here .

i want to thank all of you guys for your help. and especially CAPEDCADAVER for the intrax springs looks great. as soon as i finish with the axle project i'll take pics of the drop. again thank you guys for the help. LIVE MAXIMA FOR LIFE.
Old 04-28-2013 | 06:53 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
to avoid having to drain/refill the tranmission and install a new axle seal on the passenger side of the transmission while it's still on the car. And to save money if all he has to do is pop the joint back onto the shaft.
Never had those issues. I've pulled axles and most of the time little to no gear oil comes out (autos sometimes lose a little fluid), and never had to purchase a new seal... And my point was that those axles wear out and if its out of joint as his was, there's probably more damage... Just as he found with his. I'm not trying to compete with you on that, and in fact I've ever even looked under the boot to see what it looks like, I just think if you have an axle problem and have to remove it, and have the money, I personally would replace it. And I'm no mechanic, just someone who's bumbled through a lot of projects. Glad to relay some of my experiences for whatever they're worth.
Old 04-28-2013 | 07:07 PM
  #46  
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i pull the axle out today and it was the outer cv joint assembly that was pop out off the shaft. i tried to pop it back in but i notice it was really damage bad. i grind it to much. tiny shredded piece off metal i saw. so i order a new axle with lifetime warrenty. i want to thank everybody for your support and especially capedaver for the intrax springs .. the drop looks awesome.. pics will come as soon as i finish with the new install for the axle. smh i have to wait for friday for it to get here. smh

but thank you guys for your responses. live MAXIMA.ORG
Old 04-28-2013 | 08:28 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by maxima278
Never had those issues. I've pulled axles and most of the time little to no gear oil comes out (autos sometimes lose a little fluid), and never had to purchase a new seal... And my point was that those axles wear out and if its out of joint as his was, there's probably more damage... Just as he found with his. I'm not trying to compete with you on that, and in fact I've ever even looked under the boot to see what it looks like, I just think if you have an axle problem and have to remove it, and have the money, I personally would replace it. And I'm no mechanic, just someone who's bumbled through a lot of projects. Glad to relay some of my experiences for whatever they're worth.
i prefer to be safe than sorry with axle seals. I treat them as being one-insertion-only. But yeah, as he said, the nature of the splines just resting together but not really meshing must have created a decent amount of metal shavings during his spin tests the other day so i guess it's better not to mess with the old axle any longer and let it R.I.P.
Old 04-28-2013 | 08:30 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by TonyJr
thanks everyone for your help. i took the time today to take out the cv axle out and notice that the outer boot joint pop out of place smh. its was crazy, as soon as i discounted the ziptie from the outer boot the outer cv joint assembly just fell off the shaft. the boot was holding it in place smh. i try to pop it back in but i notice it was really damage. so i order a new axle. now i have to wait till tuesday for it to get here .

i want to thank all of you guys for your help. and especially CAPEDCADAVER for the intrax springs looks great. as soon as i finish with the axle project i'll take pics of the drop. again thank you guys for the help. LIVE MAXIMA FOR LIFE.
btw we have a SMH smiley called "rotz"



you made DARN sure to tell them it was an axle for a transmission "with locking/limited slip" right? A 92 GXE axle will not fit your hub, nor will a 91 SE axle.

Last edited by CapedCadaver; 04-28-2013 at 08:34 PM.
Old 04-29-2013 | 07:10 AM
  #49  
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i order it with abs, lsd, passenger side axle for a 92 se with locking

Last edited by TonyJr; 04-29-2013 at 07:13 AM.
Old 04-29-2013 | 07:21 AM
  #50  
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If you want check the website to double check if its the right one
Old 04-29-2013 | 10:44 AM
  #51  
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From: Central NC
Originally Posted by TonyJr


If you want check the website to double check if its the right one
The receipt says VE30DE so that's a good sign. Some ppl who have 1994 models have gotten 4th gen parts b/c half of every model year is built the year prior, so the 95's that were built in 94 get mislabeled as 94's. But for a 92 you *should* be fine most of the time.
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