Starrider

While driving today...passenger window was activated without any buttons pushed? It would roll down by itself. I would push power button to roll it up and then it rolled itself down partially? This the first time this has happened. It went on for a few minutes??? Is there a short of some sort?.....

2001M20

There is a safety feature on Max's if something is detected and stops the window you may have to reset it. it messes with the auto up and downs which sounds like what you described at the end. The only thing that sounds odd is that it rolled down by it's self. In the door panel there's a nipple you need to push while doing a sequence of rolling up or down can't remember. Try searching reset window motor, it was an excellent tutorial. Hope this helps! After a few tries I was able to fix mine and probably saved a bunch not having my smarmy mechanic do it.
https://maxima.org/forums/search.php?searchid=3541067

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Pretty sure this is not at all applicable to the 3rd gen.

GRNMAXDMON

iTrader: (1)

2001M20: 3rd gens only have auto down feature on front drivers window only. I believe you are referring to the one touch up and down feature or anti-trap, which is available on the newer gens. In our 3rd gens you can't re initialize power window motors which is the relearning of the end stops of the anti trap feature.

Starrider: I'm just throwing this out there but try unplugging the window switch on affected window and see if it still does it?

jakeru

Sounds like your master window switch is going bad. This is basically the circuit board assembly that's underneath all the power windows switches mounted on your front driver's door interior trim panel.

The circuit board traces corrode over time (and perhaps exhasorbated by getting wet occasionally - if you leave the window down or leave car unattended with high humidity/condensation inside), and when it goes, it can exhibit symptoms exactly like what you describe - window moving with a mind of its own. Other symptoms can be windows stopping working at all, or moving much more slowly than normal, while making a squealing / buzzing sound from a power relay cycling very rapidly.

One option is to replace with new (I think they are available aftermarket now for a bit over $100), or take a chance on a used one from a parts car. Another option is to try to repairs your existing one, if you are handy with electronics repairs. I managed repairing mine - it involved cleaning corrosion off circuit board and re-soldering/wiring a missing circuit board trace or two.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like a switch problem to me, but I had a bad motor that did pretty much the same thing. I would look at my car and the rear window would be down, sometimes only an inch, sometimes more, sometimes all the way. I would roll it up and it would go down again, not necessarily right away or the same day. I would park the car, making sure the window was up and it might be down in the morning. It was a rear window and I never saw it when it moved.

Eventually it got worse and the window wouldn't roll up by pressing the switch. I could grab onto the glass and move it up and down by hand. Thinking it was the regulator, I replaced just the regulator, which didn't fix it. Replaced the motor and that was it!

I dissected the motor and it was the final drive gear. It was made of 2 pieced bonded together by a rubber compound, probably to reduce vibration. The bond broke. Evidently there was enough friction for the motor to roll the window up at first, but vibrations from driving and the weight of the glass would allow it to slip until finally the wear got to be too much.

2001M20

I see thank you, sorry for the wrong answer just trying to help!

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

No worries it's all good

Starrider

Thanks Guys...i sure like this old car. And with the wealth of information here perhaps keep her going for a long time...

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

I have one touch up on my stock 3rd Gen switch. Though it was modified for it

LQ91SE

I bit the bullet recently and bought a new master switch from Advance Auto Parts. I think it was $159.99 online, but they had a $50.00 off coupon if you spent over $100. I was surprised to find an OEM part in the box, with "Nissan" and "Niles Japan" marked on the switch. I knew that I had bad relays on my original board and could not find them anywhere. The new switch came with new Panasonic relays which I could not find anywhere either. The new switch solved all my window problems. (Lifetime warranty!)

There is a zener diode that burns up on all these boards and I wasn't finding any in the junkyard without the burn marks on the circuit board.