drivers side CV boot
#1
drivers side CV boot
My drivers side CV boot ('96 SE) got ripped in half, through wear and tear I guess, and I was wondering just how much work is invovled in replaceing the whole CV joint myself. I don't want to replace just the boot because I don't know how long it's been ripped, and how much
crud got in there. Also I've been hearing a whirring noise from that side (at highway speeds)for a month or two now. I've priced a replacement CV joint for about 60$ so it seems cost effective to replace the whole thing. Are there any special tools required? Is it a nightmare task?
crud got in there. Also I've been hearing a whirring noise from that side (at highway speeds)for a month or two now. I've priced a replacement CV joint for about 60$ so it seems cost effective to replace the whole thing. Are there any special tools required? Is it a nightmare task?
#2
Re: drivers side CV boot
Originally posted by avrilr
My drivers side CV boot ('96 SE) got ripped in half, through wear and tear I guess, and I was wondering just how much work is invovled in replaceing the whole CV joint myself. I don't want to replace just the boot because I don't know how long it's been ripped, and how much
crud got in there. Also I've been hearing a whirring noise from that side (at highway speeds)for a month or two now. I've priced a replacement CV joint for about 60$ so it seems cost effective to replace the whole thing. Are there any special tools required? Is it a nightmare task?
My drivers side CV boot ('96 SE) got ripped in half, through wear and tear I guess, and I was wondering just how much work is invovled in replaceing the whole CV joint myself. I don't want to replace just the boot because I don't know how long it's been ripped, and how much
crud got in there. Also I've been hearing a whirring noise from that side (at highway speeds)for a month or two now. I've priced a replacement CV joint for about 60$ so it seems cost effective to replace the whole thing. Are there any special tools required? Is it a nightmare task?
#3
Re: Re: drivers side CV boot
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Stephen Max
[B]
It is not that bad a job, I will say that I never had more grease on me in my life. I have a 95 5sp and I was told after that I really should have replaced the tran/ axle seals while the axles where out I didn't but I think i should have.
[B]
It is not that bad a job, I will say that I never had more grease on me in my life. I have a 95 5sp and I was told after that I really should have replaced the tran/ axle seals while the axles where out I didn't but I think i should have.
#5
You don't have to remove the strut, just the 2 bottom bolts.
You don't have to remove the caliper.
You don't "have" to replace both at once.
The Haynes manual sucks when it comes to doing this. They will will have you tearing down the transmission before it's over with (ok - I'm exaggerating).
It's very easy to do, especially the driver's side. The passenger side has 3 extra bolts holding the engine side of the axle in place. Like everything else on the max, they're kind of hard to get to.
Someone just posted some decent instructions just in the last couple of days, so I'm not going to repeat it here. Do a search to find them.
In case you decide to take it to a mechanic, they should only charge you one hour of labor + parts to do this job, so a total of around $200 for BOTH axles (re-mfg).
You don't have to remove the caliper.
You don't "have" to replace both at once.
The Haynes manual sucks when it comes to doing this. They will will have you tearing down the transmission before it's over with (ok - I'm exaggerating).
It's very easy to do, especially the driver's side. The passenger side has 3 extra bolts holding the engine side of the axle in place. Like everything else on the max, they're kind of hard to get to.
Someone just posted some decent instructions just in the last couple of days, so I'm not going to repeat it here. Do a search to find them.
In case you decide to take it to a mechanic, they should only charge you one hour of labor + parts to do this job, so a total of around $200 for BOTH axles (re-mfg).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
boomerbrian
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
6
10-31-2018 10:25 AM