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drivers side CV boot

Old Aug 26, 2002 | 02:19 PM
  #1  
avrilr's Avatar
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drivers side CV boot

My drivers side CV boot ('96 SE) got ripped in half, through wear and tear I guess, and I was wondering just how much work is invovled in replaceing the whole CV joint myself. I don't want to replace just the boot because I don't know how long it's been ripped, and how much
crud got in there. Also I've been hearing a whirring noise from that side (at highway speeds)for a month or two now. I've priced a replacement CV joint for about 60$ so it seems cost effective to replace the whole thing. Are there any special tools required? Is it a nightmare task?
Old Aug 26, 2002 | 02:31 PM
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Re: drivers side CV boot

Originally posted by avrilr
My drivers side CV boot ('96 SE) got ripped in half, through wear and tear I guess, and I was wondering just how much work is invovled in replaceing the whole CV joint myself. I don't want to replace just the boot because I don't know how long it's been ripped, and how much
crud got in there. Also I've been hearing a whirring noise from that side (at highway speeds)for a month or two now. I've priced a replacement CV joint for about 60$ so it seems cost effective to replace the whole thing. Are there any special tools required? Is it a nightmare task?
No, it is a fairly straightforward task. The only hard part may be breaking the axle nut loose if you don't have air tools. The only special tool needed is a 36 mm socket for the axle nut. You will have to remove the strut (not difficult). I can't remember if you have to remove the brake caliper. A Haynes manual will give you good enough instructions to do the job. You should replace both axles at the same time.
Old Aug 30, 2002 | 07:40 PM
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Re: Re: drivers side CV boot

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Stephen Max
[B]

It is not that bad a job, I will say that I never had more grease on me in my life. I have a 95 5sp and I was told after that I really should have replaced the tran/ axle seals while the axles where out I didn't but I think i should have.
Old Aug 30, 2002 | 11:38 PM
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im pritty sure mine is bad as well, what kind of noises were u getting from it? if i do that im just gonna do the whole front axle
Old Aug 31, 2002 | 08:50 AM
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You don't have to remove the strut, just the 2 bottom bolts.

You don't have to remove the caliper.

You don't "have" to replace both at once.

The Haynes manual sucks when it comes to doing this. They will will have you tearing down the transmission before it's over with (ok - I'm exaggerating).

It's very easy to do, especially the driver's side. The passenger side has 3 extra bolts holding the engine side of the axle in place. Like everything else on the max, they're kind of hard to get to.

Someone just posted some decent instructions just in the last couple of days, so I'm not going to repeat it here. Do a search to find them.

In case you decide to take it to a mechanic, they should only charge you one hour of labor + parts to do this job, so a total of around $200 for BOTH axles (re-mfg).
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