Rotors: X-drilled vs slotted vs both - my research
09-13-2002, 05:29 PM
#42
Originally posted by iwannabmw
Here's how to settle this:
Deezo's cousin needs to get some Performance Friction pads, and they should try a panic stop like that again. Whoever stops first wins
Here's how to settle this:
Deezo's cousin needs to get some Performance Friction pads, and they should try a panic stop like that again. Whoever stops first wins
Honestly, I may not go with drilled rotors again because of the noise levels when stopping from high speeds. I'm going for slotted next time.
09-13-2002, 05:37 PM
#43
Originally posted by Vinipux
that just shows that you have better pads then he does, you could do just as well with the non-x-drilled rotors, when I had Axxis Metal pieces of $hit I could smoke them going from 60-0 one time, after I got portefields track/street application it took me some time to heat them up on the track to see fade. trust me, it's not the rotors that helped you stop, listen to what iwannabmw says
that just shows that you have better pads then he does, you could do just as well with the non-x-drilled rotors, when I had Axxis Metal pieces of $hit I could smoke them going from 60-0 one time, after I got portefields track/street application it took me some time to heat them up on the track to see fade. trust me, it's not the rotors that helped you stop, listen to what iwannabmw says
Vini: I didn't say I didn't believe it was the pads that helped me increase my stopping power but my Performamce Friction's are way better than the Metal Maxtrix I used to have and that made a big difference also.
09-16-2002, 05:39 AM
#45
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Well, just like deezo said, I almost ran into him on a highway due to unacceptable fade those Axxis pads provided. I replaced them with stock nissan pads and never had a problem since then.
Also, Vinipux, you probably remember what kind of noise my axxis pads made while braking, it was embarrassing.
Also, Vinipux, you probably remember what kind of noise my axxis pads made while braking, it was embarrassing.
09-16-2002, 08:40 AM
#47
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Good article on Avalon Racing's web site. This explains x-drilled vs slotted very nicely.
Rotor Article
Rotor Article
09-16-2002, 08:54 AM
#48
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Originally posted by njmaxseltd
Good article on Avalon Racing's web site. This explains x-drilled vs slotted very nicely.
Rotor Article
Good article on Avalon Racing's web site. This explains x-drilled vs slotted very nicely.
Rotor Article
hmm.... interesting, although poorly written basically he said that cross-drilled does not hold up to the same temperatures as the slotted rotors....
we've been there, done that
thanks for the article though
09-16-2002, 09:14 AM
#49
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Originally posted by njmaxseltd
Good article on Avalon Racing's web site. This explains x-drilled vs slotted very nicely.
Rotor Article
Good article on Avalon Racing's web site. This explains x-drilled vs slotted very nicely.
Rotor Article
09-16-2002, 10:36 AM
#50
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Originally posted by speedemn
This article seems to elude to cross drilled+slotted rotors to be the best option. Does Brembo make cross drilled+slotted for gen 4 Maximas?
This article seems to elude to cross drilled+slotted rotors to be the best option. Does Brembo make cross drilled+slotted for gen 4 Maximas?
09-16-2002, 10:47 AM
#51
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Originally posted by Vinipux
yeah, but he's wrong, the best rotors are slotted, drilled are ONLY FOR LOOKS
yeah, but he's wrong, the best rotors are slotted, drilled are ONLY FOR LOOKS
As far as rotors go ---
Cross drilled are for street performance.
Slotted are for extreme temps such as auto crossing.
The article further points out the trade off's as well. The higher you go up in performance twards extreme use, the less friendly your brakes are around town. They never get hot enough to work correctly. The correct combination of pad and rotor should be chosen according to your driving conditions.
Daily drivers such as myself, looking for a nice brake upgrade would most likely go with a cross drilled rotor and a mildly agressive carbon metalic pad. The Stillen x-drilled rotors & Metal Axis pad combo is exactly that.
09-16-2002, 11:17 AM
#52
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Originally posted by njmaxseltd
I think you missed the point of that article. The article points out that which rotor & pad you go with all depends on what your driving conditions are.
As far as rotors go ---
Cross drilled are for street performance.
Slotted are for extreme temps such as auto crossing.
The article further points out the trade off's as well. The higher you go up in performance twards extreme use, the less friendly your brakes are around town. They never get hot enough to work correctly. The correct combination of pad and rotor should be chosen according to your driving conditions.
Daily drivers such as myself, looking for a nice brake upgrade would most likely go with a cross drilled rotor and a mildly agressive carbon metalic pad. The Stillen x-drilled rotors & Metal Axis pad combo is exactly that.
I think you missed the point of that article. The article points out that which rotor & pad you go with all depends on what your driving conditions are.
As far as rotors go ---
Cross drilled are for street performance.
Slotted are for extreme temps such as auto crossing.
The article further points out the trade off's as well. The higher you go up in performance twards extreme use, the less friendly your brakes are around town. They never get hot enough to work correctly. The correct combination of pad and rotor should be chosen according to your driving conditions.
Daily drivers such as myself, looking for a nice brake upgrade would most likely go with a cross drilled rotor and a mildly agressive carbon metalic pad. The Stillen x-drilled rotors & Metal Axis pad combo is exactly that.
if you want better brakes, better pads that can withstand that temperature, if you want LOOKS, get CROSS-DRILLED
if you want TRACK ROTORS, get SLOTTED
P.S. Cliff notes
cross-drilled is for rice boys that want their cars to look pretty
(nothing wrong w/ that if that's your thing)
09-16-2002, 11:39 AM
#54
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Originally posted by Vinipux
P.S. Cliff notes
cross-drilled is for rice boys that want their cars to look pretty
(nothing wrong w/ that if that's your thing)
P.S. Cliff notes
cross-drilled is for rice boys that want their cars to look pretty
(nothing wrong w/ that if that's your thing)
Guess that makes me a rice boy with good brakes!
09-16-2002, 12:25 PM
#57
Originally posted by speedemn
Does Brembo make rotors for 4th gen Maximas that are cross drilled + slotted in one?
Does Brembo make rotors for 4th gen Maximas that are cross drilled + slotted in one?
09-16-2002, 01:01 PM
#58
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Vinipux
cross-drilled is for rice boys that want their cars to look pretty
QUOTE]I guess crossed drilled rotors on a Porsche is rice too.
Its not like having a big a$$ wing on the top of my car(yes I saw a GTi with one on the top).
Hell they are still much better than running hard on stock rotors (my personal opinion).
Why don't you guys post some info about why pads are the biggest difference in braking.
cross-drilled is for rice boys that want their cars to look pretty
QUOTE]I guess crossed drilled rotors on a Porsche is rice too.
Its not like having a big a$$ wing on the top of my car(yes I saw a GTi with one on the top).Hell they are still much better than running hard on stock rotors (my personal opinion).
Why don't you guys post some info about why pads are the biggest difference in braking.
09-16-2002, 01:07 PM
#59
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Originally posted by araffio
Yes they do, and I just a front pair to replace my stock rotors which are warped. Check them out at SouthWestAutoWorks.com
Yes they do, and I just a front pair to replace my stock rotors which are warped. Check them out at SouthWestAutoWorks.com
Does Brembo also make blank rotors? Any idea what those cost?
09-16-2002, 01:22 PM
#60
Originally posted by speedemn
Wow some great prices there.
Does Brembo also make blank rotors? Any idea what those cost?
Wow some great prices there.
Does Brembo also make blank rotors? Any idea what those cost?
I'm sure they make them, I just don't know where you could buy them. They must cost less than the cross drilled/slotted ones too...
09-16-2002, 01:25 PM
#61
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by deezo
obviously nothing against you deezo, but the reason the pads make the bigger difference is
because if you get pads that can only handle 350 degrees, then if you brake hard you will definatly go over that limit, then lets say you get track/street brakes,
lets say their range is upto 550 degees, and as you start braking hard on the street your temp maybe only go up to 500 degrees, even autoX only gets to 500 because you only run for a minute and then have a lot of time to wait between runs so they don't get hotter
if you do go on the track, these pads will be great for maybe 20 minutes tops but then the hard braking will take over and the temperature increases to 600 degrees and you feel like you need to get on the brake pedal more in order to stop it, or the pedal just goes all the way to the floor in order for you to slow down
if you get track pads, they might be rated to 1200 degrees, but they HAVE TO BE HOT in order to operate, so lets say they start working at 500 degrees, so you get on the track and you brake real hard the first couple of times and you're fine the whole time on the track since the temperature never exceeds 1200 degrees.
also, you have to consider another weak point of the system, the BRAKE FLUID, dot 3 fluid is rated fairly low, dot 4 fluid is rated I believe to about 550 degees dry temp, which means it has not been expose to moisture, which it obsorb, if you use track pads and the system heats up to 800 degrees, and your fluid can only handle 550 degrees then your fluid will start boiling and you will have no brakes, so you might have to upgrade to a higher fluid rating, synthetic, but that just depends on what car you have and what kind of driving you do on the track. don't forget, NEVER USE SYNTHETIC FLUID W/ ABS, PULSATION OF ABS BOILS SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID,
that's why realistically who cares about what rotor you're using, the rotor can withstand temperatures up to 2000 degress, that's not the weakest part of the system. what does help is getting slotted rotors, because what happens if you don't get them is that the pads will start glazing and some of the pad material will "smudge" upon the rotor, and then you won't have the brakes that you want, w/ the slots, they act almost as a razer on your skin, they will take a slight layer off the pads so there is no glazing and also remove the gasses that have been build up under the great pressure that's applied on the system. what could happen if you get cross-drilled on the track is that rotor has less surface area then blank or slotted rotor, so 1) it can't break as well, because it depends on the surface area, and 2) the rotor acts like swiss cheese, because there isn't enough material for heat desipitation, it might just crack, which isn't what you want on the track
NOW, on the street, track/street pads are sufficient enough for 99.99% of the time and basically ANY rotor is fine because you're not generating the extreme temperatures that you would on the track, so who cares, and if you are hard on the brakes, just get dot 4 fluid, and be happy
this is the end...
Originally posted by Vinipux
cross-drilled is for rice boys that want their cars to look pretty
QUOTE]I guess crossed drilled rotors on a Porsche is rice too. Its not like having a big a$$ wing on the top of my car(yes I saw a GTi with one on the top).
Hell they are still much better than running hard on stock rotors (my personal opinion).
Why don't you guys post some info about why pads are the biggest difference in braking.
cross-drilled is for rice boys that want their cars to look pretty
QUOTE]I guess crossed drilled rotors on a Porsche is rice too.
Its not like having a big a$$ wing on the top of my car(yes I saw a GTi with one on the top).Hell they are still much better than running hard on stock rotors (my personal opinion).
Why don't you guys post some info about why pads are the biggest difference in braking.
because if you get pads that can only handle 350 degrees, then if you brake hard you will definatly go over that limit, then lets say you get track/street brakes,
lets say their range is upto 550 degees, and as you start braking hard on the street your temp maybe only go up to 500 degrees, even autoX only gets to 500 because you only run for a minute and then have a lot of time to wait between runs so they don't get hotter
if you do go on the track, these pads will be great for maybe 20 minutes tops but then the hard braking will take over and the temperature increases to 600 degrees and you feel like you need to get on the brake pedal more in order to stop it, or the pedal just goes all the way to the floor in order for you to slow down
if you get track pads, they might be rated to 1200 degrees, but they HAVE TO BE HOT in order to operate, so lets say they start working at 500 degrees, so you get on the track and you brake real hard the first couple of times and you're fine the whole time on the track since the temperature never exceeds 1200 degrees.
also, you have to consider another weak point of the system, the BRAKE FLUID, dot 3 fluid is rated fairly low, dot 4 fluid is rated I believe to about 550 degees dry temp, which means it has not been expose to moisture, which it obsorb, if you use track pads and the system heats up to 800 degrees, and your fluid can only handle 550 degrees then your fluid will start boiling and you will have no brakes, so you might have to upgrade to a higher fluid rating, synthetic, but that just depends on what car you have and what kind of driving you do on the track. don't forget, NEVER USE SYNTHETIC FLUID W/ ABS, PULSATION OF ABS BOILS SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID,
that's why realistically who cares about what rotor you're using, the rotor can withstand temperatures up to 2000 degress, that's not the weakest part of the system. what does help is getting slotted rotors, because what happens if you don't get them is that the pads will start glazing and some of the pad material will "smudge" upon the rotor, and then you won't have the brakes that you want, w/ the slots, they act almost as a razer on your skin, they will take a slight layer off the pads so there is no glazing and also remove the gasses that have been build up under the great pressure that's applied on the system. what could happen if you get cross-drilled on the track is that rotor has less surface area then blank or slotted rotor, so 1) it can't break as well, because it depends on the surface area, and 2) the rotor acts like swiss cheese, because there isn't enough material for heat desipitation, it might just crack, which isn't what you want on the track
NOW, on the street, track/street pads are sufficient enough for 99.99% of the time and basically ANY rotor is fine because you're not generating the extreme temperatures that you would on the track, so who cares, and if you are hard on the brakes, just get dot 4 fluid, and be happy
this is the end...
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