GoldMax99

Fellows,

I was wondering if anyone had ever changed this sensor, and if so how hard a job is it? I just checked my ECU and that's the code it spit out. The piece is only about 30 bucks, but the install is an hour of labor, so I'd rather do it myself. I pretty handy, but I've never worked on my Maxima before and on previous cars I've done simple things like oil changes, spark plug changes, air filter changes, and things of that nature. So I guess I'm a "novice" home mechanic. Any help would be great.

Thanks in advance!!!

Jamsan

iTrader: (2)

If you can, go pick up a Haynes manual...has detailed instructions in there...if not, I'll go snap some pictures right now of where it is, and then post the directions on how to change it.

Jamsan

iTrader: (2)

Warning - Wait until the engine is completely cool before performing this procedure.

-Before installing the new sensor, wrap the threads with Teflon sealing tape to prevent leakage and thread corrosion.

-Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the engine coolant temperature sensor from the coolant pipe. Install the new sensor as quickly as possible to minimize coolant loss. Tighten the sensor securely and reconnect the electrical connector.

-Check the coolant level, adding coolant if necessary. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature, then check for coolant leaks. Check the coolant level in the expansion tank after the engine has warmed up and then cooled down again.

if you go to your crankcase piping (comes from the midpipe of the intake, to the right side of the engine block), its right under there...

GoldMax99

Jamsan,

Wow!!!! I have never seen such a fast and concise response. I don't know how to thank you. I am going to do it this weekend, so I'll let you know how it goes. It doesn't seem difficult at all. What tools do I need? Do I need to drain the coolant? What's the estimated time to complete this procedure?

Take it easy, bud!!!

Jamsan

iTrader: (2)

I haven't done this before, so I really can't say...but IMO, it doesn't look like more than a 5-10 minutes job to swap the actual sensors...Again, also not sure on what tools to use, just get an adjustable open ended wrench, and get to it

hacim105

iTrader: (6)

You don't need to drain anything. For me pulling off the electrical connection was the toughest part. After that it's just unscrew and put in the new. You need a wrench. I don't remember what what size but that is it.

redmaxpa007

iTrader: (21)

i am gonna replace mine this weekend

GoldMax99

Thank you all. Good luck to you RedMax. Is your CEL light on as well?

redmaxpa007

iTrader: (21)

nope

hacim105

iTrader: (6)

You don't need to drain anything. For me pulling off the electrical connection was the toughest part. After that it's just unscrew and put in the new. You need a wrench. I don't remember what what size but that is it.

GoldMax99

Anyone know the part # for this above?

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

For my 96 GLE, the part number is "22630-44B20"...

Nirav

GoldMax99

Jaman had recommended I use teflon tape on the thread but in the Haynes manual is specifically says not to use teflon tape. Instead to use a conductive sealant. What's a conductive sealant?

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

That would be a sealant that conducts electricity. The sensor is grounded through the threads, so if you use teflon you might possibly insulate the sensor from ground. In practice, however, the threads usually cut through the teflon so you get a good ground anyway, unless you use a buttload of teflon and don't tighten the sensor enough.