Finally found out what was wrong with Alarm
05-13-2003, 08:00 AM
#1
Finally found out what was wrong with Alarm
In a thread from a few weeks ago, I explained in detail that my stock '98 SE alarm would not arm. Just an update, in case you have problems as well.
I noticed (as was suggested by someone) that my hood did not have a loop in the circuit. What I mean is that I read about how if someone opens the hood, trunk, unlocks doors, or messes with the lock cylinders, the alarm will go off. In my flash of brilliance, I decided to test each loop, or point of contact that the alarm would use in a diagnostic test before arming the alarm.
If the alarm's central unit detects an open loop, or better explained a door that is ajar, or trunk (or hood) that is not closed, it will not activate. (DUH!)
Anyway, I found where the hood's point of contact SHOULD be, and it was not there, but dangling down by my battery. I glued the accordion-like switch to its harness and fastened it in place. I armed the alarm and BINGO! The security light went steady (arming mode), and 30 seconds later--the alarm went off as I unlocked the driver door!
So, I'm a happy camper. If your alarm is not working, check each point of contact and the switches.
I noticed (as was suggested by someone) that my hood did not have a loop in the circuit. What I mean is that I read about how if someone opens the hood, trunk, unlocks doors, or messes with the lock cylinders, the alarm will go off. In my flash of brilliance, I decided to test each loop, or point of contact that the alarm would use in a diagnostic test before arming the alarm.
If the alarm's central unit detects an open loop, or better explained a door that is ajar, or trunk (or hood) that is not closed, it will not activate. (DUH!)
Anyway, I found where the hood's point of contact SHOULD be, and it was not there, but dangling down by my battery. I glued the accordion-like switch to its harness and fastened it in place. I armed the alarm and BINGO! The security light went steady (arming mode), and 30 seconds later--the alarm went off as I unlocked the driver door!
So, I'm a happy camper. If your alarm is not working, check each point of contact and the switches.
05-13-2003, 12:11 PM
#2
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 405
Hey, thanks. This info pointed me in the right direction. My hood sensor was connected, but my rubber accordian was marred and chewed off. So there was too much space to push that switch down. I put a large head nail (the one used by roofers to tack down black paper), in the plastic plunger. This gave me about 1/2 inch more push down on the plunger when the hood closes. A right sized screw would probably be better, tho i had 1000 nails lying around.
Alarm works now.
BTW, when the switch out (plunger out), my ohm meter read it as an electrically closed circuit. When the plunger is pushed in, it is an electrically open circuit. I tested it to see if the switch was bad.
Thanks Again!
Alarm works now.
BTW, when the switch out (plunger out), my ohm meter read it as an electrically closed circuit. When the plunger is pushed in, it is an electrically open circuit. I tested it to see if the switch was bad.
Thanks Again!
05-13-2003, 12:38 PM
#3
Re: Finally found out what was wrong with Alarm
Originally posted by cam_honestiam
In a thread from a few weeks ago, I explained in detail that my stock '98 SE alarm would not arm. Just an update, in case you have problems as well.
I noticed (as was suggested by someone) that my hood did not have a loop in the circuit. What I mean is that I read about how if someone opens the hood, trunk, unlocks doors, or messes with the lock cylinders, the alarm will go off. In my flash of brilliance, I decided to test each loop, or point of contact that the alarm would use in a diagnostic test before arming the alarm.
If the alarm's central unit detects an open loop, or better explained a door that is ajar, or trunk (or hood) that is not closed, it will not activate. (DUH!)
Anyway, I found where the hood's point of contact SHOULD be, and it was not there, but dangling down by my battery. I glued the accordion-like switch to its harness and fastened it in place. I armed the alarm and BINGO! The security light went steady (arming mode), and 30 seconds later--the alarm went off as I unlocked the driver door!
So, I'm a happy camper. If your alarm is not working, check each point of contact and the switches.
In a thread from a few weeks ago, I explained in detail that my stock '98 SE alarm would not arm. Just an update, in case you have problems as well.
I noticed (as was suggested by someone) that my hood did not have a loop in the circuit. What I mean is that I read about how if someone opens the hood, trunk, unlocks doors, or messes with the lock cylinders, the alarm will go off. In my flash of brilliance, I decided to test each loop, or point of contact that the alarm would use in a diagnostic test before arming the alarm.
If the alarm's central unit detects an open loop, or better explained a door that is ajar, or trunk (or hood) that is not closed, it will not activate. (DUH!)
Anyway, I found where the hood's point of contact SHOULD be, and it was not there, but dangling down by my battery. I glued the accordion-like switch to its harness and fastened it in place. I armed the alarm and BINGO! The security light went steady (arming mode), and 30 seconds later--the alarm went off as I unlocked the driver door!
So, I'm a happy camper. If your alarm is not working, check each point of contact and the switches.
So where exactly is the point of contact supposed to be? Should I be going home and looking fora dangling wire or something by my battery? Are you saying that if the connection somehow got knocked off I should have a dangling wire somewhere near my battery? The dealer put a new battery when they prepped my car and they may have ripped it off. Where does the switch, when its there go? Im excited now.
05-14-2003, 07:23 AM
#4
The switch for the hood should be on the drivers side, attached to the frame of the car on a small platform (just above the driver's headlight or so) It is accordion-like (as mentioned before) and if flexi-in and out; in other words, you can push it down, it will spring back up. This is to make an open/closed circuit as the trunk is opening and closing.
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