Stumbling when accelerator is pressed. ?=o/
10-01-2003, 11:27 AM
#2
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 458
Well, i replaced the fuel filter and the air filter...same sh*t. I've also replaced the spark plugs not too long ago, as well as other basic tuneup stuff. Does this sound maybe like an injector is stuck? Anyone wanna try and help?
10-01-2003, 02:25 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Whitestone, NY
Posts: 480
i get this werid vibration when i press my gas pedal down 1/4 way. Its werid....feels werid. car seems to be running fine but that first 1/4 power just isnt there like it use to be when i bought the car...i kinda just keep driving thinking its getting old (104,000).
Just last month i spent a 1000 on new shocks, fuel filter, all new brakes all round with cut rotors and new tires. I dont know what the problem can be...my spark plugs will be replaced at around 120,000.
Just last month i spent a 1000 on new shocks, fuel filter, all new brakes all round with cut rotors and new tires. I dont know what the problem can be...my spark plugs will be replaced at around 120,000.
10-01-2003, 05:38 PM
#7
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Posts: 458
My car's symptoms are different than his. With mine, the car almost vibrates (but its just the engine either missing or just stumbling) whenever i try and accelerate from anywhere from moderate-hard) Only when i hit it very light, it doenst stumble? Im thinking a stuck injector, but i dont know? ....help?
10-03-2003, 06:29 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by kenju4u
i get this werid vibration when i press my gas pedal down 1/4 way. Its werid....feels werid. car seems to be running fine but that first 1/4 power just isnt there like it use to be when i bought the car...i kinda just keep driving thinking its getting old (104,000).
Just last month i spent a 1000 on new shocks, fuel filter, all new brakes all round with cut rotors and new tires. I dont know what the problem can be...my spark plugs will be replaced at around 120,000.
Just last month i spent a 1000 on new shocks, fuel filter, all new brakes all round with cut rotors and new tires. I dont know what the problem can be...my spark plugs will be replaced at around 120,000.
i have that wierd vibration too, but i only got 24k miles
10-03-2003, 07:36 PM
#14
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cleaning the throttle body is one of the easiest things I've done to my MAx. Start to finish should take about 30 mins. Here's a write up Prep the TB(part 1) and How to clean your throttle body(part2) . Let me know if that was the problem
10-04-2003, 07:37 AM
#16
Originally Posted by Kashoggio
ok i guess my opinion is of no use.. cleaning the tb has nothing to do with stumbling... if your tb is dirty , your accelerator might stick and you will have slight less performance but thats about it
i disagree my car used to stumble around 2-3k range, cleaned the tb and now it doesnt, maybe this problem is different for these guys, but it worked on mine
10-04-2003, 08:35 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by Kashoggio
ok i guess my opinion is of no use.. cleaning the tb has nothing to do with stumbling... if your tb is dirty , your accelerator might stick and you will have slight less performance but thats about it
10-04-2003, 01:37 PM
#19
you dont have to replace the maf to test it out... when the symptoms are going on... let the car idle and then rev it to what ever rpm it happen... hit the maf sensor .. if the car dosent act differently then its not the maf
10-04-2003, 01:49 PM
#20
Looks like noone can definitely say what causes this, everyone has their own reasons. I have the same, changed already fuel and air filter, cleaned TB, still same sh**t, well, will change the plugs this week...
10-04-2003, 05:13 PM
#22
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 37
Any explanation?
I personally am hardly convinced that it is related to the ignition coils.
You solved your problem by just replacing all ignition coils?
You solved your problem by just replacing all ignition coils?
Originally Posted by BOSS
IGNITION COILS! ....I know I know - you'd be surprised.
10-05-2003, 02:45 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by PolarisGT
I personally am hardly convinced that it is related to the ignition coils.
You solved your problem by just replacing all ignition coils?
You solved your problem by just replacing all ignition coils?
10-05-2003, 07:03 AM
#24
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Posts: 37
So I assume that even the bad one just malfunctioned at times, you could locate the defect by checking resistance between terminals? 
Originally Posted by BOSS
Actually no, by replacing just one coil (we have 6). It never happens that all 6 are defective. Coil # 5 was defective and caused cylinder misfires at times....and I experienced sort of the same thing he's talking about above. Changed ignition coil = no more hesitations no more problems!
10-05-2003, 08:46 AM
#25
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,060
If the knock sensor is bad, as soon as you crack about 30% throttle your ignition timing advance goes down to like nothing (safe timing map) and you'll notice a big drop in power. That wouldn't explain the vibrations, though.
10-05-2003, 09:47 AM
#27
Originally Posted by BOSS
Actually no, by replacing just one coil (we have 6). It never happens that all 6 are defective. Coil # 5 was defective and caused cylinder misfires at times....and I experienced sort of the same thing he's talking about above. Changed ignition coil = no more hesitations no more problems!
How did you figure out which cylinder misfired (e.i. which ignition coil was bad)??
10-05-2003, 12:17 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by Vlad
How did you figure out which cylinder misfired (e.i. which ignition coil was bad)??
Also, a defective coil will still transmit say a spark or any other current of electricity under certain voltage without a problem. Yes, it is only under heavy voltage (like when accelerating in a Maxima) it will lose half of what it is transmitting at the top (...you know how a coil looks I assume) either because 1) it shorts to the valve body of the engine because cut/worn out rubber hence poor insulation of the coil or 2) the top part of the coil (looks like a cube basically) is defective inside somehow. I had case 2 because the rubber was in excellent condition. So if it is case 1 you can find out which coil it is just by closely examining it by yourself, without having to test it.
Another alternative to testing the coils (I went with this) is to drive hard for a couple of weeks. It worked for me. A defective coils (case 2) gets more and more defective the more you drive. However, it gets even more defective under heavy load (heavy acceleration) like say WOT. Well, after a couple weeks of hard driving my coil was so weak and defective that it eventually caused the cylinder to misfire SO much that it finally made the ECU throw a code. Remember that a slightly defective coil will ALMOST NEVER throw a code. Anyway, when I checked the code it said "cylinder 5 misfire" so I knew right away it was ignition coil # 5. Called some 7 Nissan dealers and found one cheapest for $75. (yes, they are expensive!)
Hope this helps
and clears up some things.BTW coils (and cylinders for that matter) in your Maxima are as follows:
(looking at your engine bay from the front of the car)
1-3-5 REAR COILS (CYLINDERS)
2-4-6 FRONT COILS (CYLINDERS)
10-05-2003, 07:35 PM
#32
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 37
That makes sense. So the symptom is that your car stumbled whenever the gas pedal was depressed heavily, with or without shifting gear? My car stumbles only when shifting from 1 to 2 with a heavy foot.
Originally Posted by BOSS
To all those wondering...I just want you to know that it is a very complicated process. The only way to test ignition coils (and you have to test each one of the six) is to use some kind of device that mostly only auto mechanics own. It's not your regular multimeters etc., it's a more complicated device I forgot what it is called. The reason is because you know that a LOT of spark and hence electricity goes through the coil. So multimeter and other devices are not strong enough to transmit so much electricity.
Also, a defective coil will still transmit say a spark or any other current of electricity under certain voltage without a problem. Yes, it is only under heavy voltage (like when accelerating in a Maxima) it will lose half of what it is transmitting at the top (...you know how a coil looks I assume) either because 1) it shorts to the valve body of the engine because cut/worn out rubber hence poor insulation of the coil or 2) the top part of the coil (looks like a cube basically) is defective inside somehow. I had case 2 because the rubber was in excellent condition. So if it is case 1 you can find out which coil it is just by closely examining it by yourself, without having to test it.
Another alternative to testing the coils (I went with this) is to drive hard for a couple of weeks. It worked for me. A defective coils (case 2) gets more and more defective the more you drive. However, it gets even more defective under heavy load (heavy acceleration) like say WOT. Well, after a couple weeks of hard driving my coil was so weak and defective that it eventually caused the cylinder to misfire SO much that it finally made the ECU throw a code. Remember that a slightly defective coil will ALMOST NEVER throw a code. Anyway, when I checked the code it said "cylinder 5 misfire" so I knew right away it was ignition coil # 5. Called some 7 Nissan dealers and found one cheapest for $75. (yes, they are expensive!)
Hope this helps and clears up some things.
BTW coils (and cylinders for that matter) in your Maxima are as follows:
(looking at your engine bay from the front of the car)
1-3-5 REAR COILS (CYLINDERS)
2-4-6 FRONT COILS (CYLINDERS)
Also, a defective coil will still transmit say a spark or any other current of electricity under certain voltage without a problem. Yes, it is only under heavy voltage (like when accelerating in a Maxima) it will lose half of what it is transmitting at the top (...you know how a coil looks I assume) either because 1) it shorts to the valve body of the engine because cut/worn out rubber hence poor insulation of the coil or 2) the top part of the coil (looks like a cube basically) is defective inside somehow. I had case 2 because the rubber was in excellent condition. So if it is case 1 you can find out which coil it is just by closely examining it by yourself, without having to test it.
Another alternative to testing the coils (I went with this) is to drive hard for a couple of weeks. It worked for me. A defective coils (case 2) gets more and more defective the more you drive. However, it gets even more defective under heavy load (heavy acceleration) like say WOT. Well, after a couple weeks of hard driving my coil was so weak and defective that it eventually caused the cylinder to misfire SO much that it finally made the ECU throw a code. Remember that a slightly defective coil will ALMOST NEVER throw a code. Anyway, when I checked the code it said "cylinder 5 misfire" so I knew right away it was ignition coil # 5. Called some 7 Nissan dealers and found one cheapest for $75. (yes, they are expensive!)
Hope this helps
and clears up some things.BTW coils (and cylinders for that matter) in your Maxima are as follows:
(looking at your engine bay from the front of the car)
1-3-5 REAR COILS (CYLINDERS)
2-4-6 FRONT COILS (CYLINDERS)
10-06-2003, 12:53 AM
#33
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Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by PolarisGT
That makes sense. So the symptom is that your car stumbled whenever the gas pedal was depressed heavily, with or without shifting gear? My car stumbles only when shifting from 1 to 2 with a heavy foot.
Anyway, I was going to add that it happened regardless of what RPM range I was in. I guess it was random, but ALWAYS when accelerating "with a heavy foot".
10-20-2003, 05:50 AM
#36
Originally Posted by DEVIOUS
Any updates? has anyone fix this problem yet? besides BOSS
Well, I figured one of my coils went bad in cyl #2. It looked very burned and when I checked it with multimeter (Haynes manual has instructions) it appeared to be really dead. Also gonna replace the knock sensor. On thursday I expect it to arrive (coil) and will make a post if it helped.
SO far I am driving really easy, as soon as I depress my accelarator a little more cylinder starts backfiring...
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