HELP- Keyless remote failure
02-21-2001, 07:45 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Both my keyless remotes don't work, and I'm pretty sure it's not the battery.
I've tried re-programming both keys, but when i inserted the key in and out of the ignition quickly, nothing happened (ie no flashing lights).
Does anybody know if there's a fuse that might have been blown and where it would be? Maybe a wire got disconnected? Does anyone know where the wiring is for this keyless remote system?
The two things I was working on before this problem were:
1) tightening a speaker wire in the front door panel
2) checking a blown amp in the rear left speaker using a test speaker.
Any ideas?
I've tried re-programming both keys, but when i inserted the key in and out of the ignition quickly, nothing happened (ie no flashing lights).
Does anybody know if there's a fuse that might have been blown and where it would be? Maybe a wire got disconnected? Does anyone know where the wiring is for this keyless remote system?
The two things I was working on before this problem were:
1) tightening a speaker wire in the front door panel
2) checking a blown amp in the rear left speaker using a test speaker.
Any ideas?
02-21-2001, 09:10 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 242
keyless remote
Just in case, to make sure you are re-programming the remote correctly, read over these instructions: (from Steve Cutchen) [maybe your doors weren't locked, calvin]
"Setting mode":
(1) Close and lock all doors.
(2) Insert and remove the key from the ignition more than six times within 10 seconds. (The hazard warning lamp will then flash twice.) At this time, the original ID codes are eliminated.
ID code entry:
(3) Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.
(4) Push lock button on the new remote controller once (for example, if door is locked using the remote controller during this ID code entry enable state, a new ID code can be entered). At this time, the new ID code is entered. (The hazard warning lamp will then flash twice.)
Additional ID code entry
(5) If you need to activate additional remote controllers, unlock the driver's door, then lock again with door lock ****.
(6) Push lock button on the additional new remote controller once.
(7) This ID code entry enable state and setting mode remain until the driver's door is opened.
NOTE
* If you need to activate more than two additional new remote controllers, repeat the procedure "Additional ID code entry" for each new remote controller.
* If the same ID code that exists in the memory is input, the hazard warning lamps will flash twice but the entry will be ignored.
* Entry of maximum four ID codes is allowed and any attempt to enter more will be ignored.
* Any ID codes entered after termination of the "setting mode" will not be accepted. Additionally remote control signals will be inhibited when an ID code has not been entered during the "setting" mode.
"Setting mode":
(1) Close and lock all doors.
(2) Insert and remove the key from the ignition more than six times within 10 seconds. (The hazard warning lamp will then flash twice.) At this time, the original ID codes are eliminated.
ID code entry:
(3) Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.
(4) Push lock button on the new remote controller once (for example, if door is locked using the remote controller during this ID code entry enable state, a new ID code can be entered). At this time, the new ID code is entered. (The hazard warning lamp will then flash twice.)
Additional ID code entry
(5) If you need to activate additional remote controllers, unlock the driver's door, then lock again with door lock ****.
(6) Push lock button on the additional new remote controller once.
(7) This ID code entry enable state and setting mode remain until the driver's door is opened.
NOTE
* If you need to activate more than two additional new remote controllers, repeat the procedure "Additional ID code entry" for each new remote controller.
* If the same ID code that exists in the memory is input, the hazard warning lamps will flash twice but the entry will be ignored.
* Entry of maximum four ID codes is allowed and any attempt to enter more will be ignored.
* Any ID codes entered after termination of the "setting mode" will not be accepted. Additionally remote control signals will be inhibited when an ID code has not been entered during the "setting" mode.
02-21-2001, 09:26 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
still doesn't work...
I've tried the suggested procedures in terms of re-programming my key..
but it doesn't seem to be re-programming issue.
I think a wire somewhere is disconnected.. or a fuse is blown.
Does anyone know where i could look to see what might be wrong?
but it doesn't seem to be re-programming issue.
I think a wire somewhere is disconnected.. or a fuse is blown.
Does anyone know where i could look to see what might be wrong?
02-21-2001, 09:44 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,601
Things you could check
Originally posted by calvin418
... I think a wire somewhere is disconnected.. or a fuse is blown. ...
... I think a wire somewhere is disconnected.. or a fuse is blown. ...
Check
- fuse #40 (7.5 amps)
- fuse #11 (10 amps)
- fuse #19 (7.5 amps)
These fuses are located in the passenger cabin fuse block behind a pull-out panel, lower dash, left of the steering column.
In the '99 Maxima the passenger cabin fuse block has three columns of fuses.
The left-most column contains fuses 1 - 11, numbered from bottom to top.
The middle column contains fuses 12 - 26, numbered from bottom to top.
The right-most column contains fuses 27 - 40, numbered from bottom to top.
The numbers are molded into the plastic fuse block. They are not easy to
read. A flashlight will be helpful.
The manual refers to the keyless remote feature as the Multi-Remote Control System. It uses a Multi-Remote Control Relay. You might check this relay.
1) Open the trunk. Remove the trunk compartment floor carpet and the fiberboard spare tire cover. These are removed with your hands; no tools are required.
2) Remove the cardboard trunk trim which surrounds the latch mechanism. The five plastic fasteners which secure it are quarter-turn latches and come loose easily when turned with a Phillips head screwdriver.
3) Look at the area of the trunk latch mechanism, made visible by removal of the the trim panel. Locate electrical connector T5. This is a brown plastic connector with 6 terminal positions. The relay plugged into it.
02-21-2001, 04:32 PM
#5
Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 41
Originally posted by calvin418
Both my keyless remotes don't work, and I'm pretty sure it's not the battery.
I've tried re-programming both keys, but when i inserted the key in and out of the ignition quickly, nothing happened (ie no flashing lights).
Does anybody know if there's a fuse that might have been blown and where it would be? Maybe a wire got disconnected? Does anyone know where the wiring is for this keyless remote system?
The two things I was working on before this problem were:
1) tightening a speaker wire in the front door panel
2) checking a blown amp in the rear left speaker using a test speaker.
Any ideas?
I would check the wiring in the door.. I had a similar problem with my 95.. When purchased - the back rear door had no power and as soon as the dealer replaced whatever was wrong with it - everything worked perfectly.. Also - I just ripped out my front speaker and the remotes still lock up the car (except that door) but my flashers no longer blink.
Hope this helps
Both my keyless remotes don't work, and I'm pretty sure it's not the battery.
I've tried re-programming both keys, but when i inserted the key in and out of the ignition quickly, nothing happened (ie no flashing lights).
Does anybody know if there's a fuse that might have been blown and where it would be? Maybe a wire got disconnected? Does anyone know where the wiring is for this keyless remote system?
The two things I was working on before this problem were:
1) tightening a speaker wire in the front door panel
2) checking a blown amp in the rear left speaker using a test speaker.
Any ideas?
I would check the wiring in the door.. I had a similar problem with my 95.. When purchased - the back rear door had no power and as soon as the dealer replaced whatever was wrong with it - everything worked perfectly.. Also - I just ripped out my front speaker and the remotes still lock up the car (except that door) but my flashers no longer blink.
Hope this helps
02-21-2001, 05:21 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 715
right remote
Make sure you have the right remote. Where did you get it from a dealer or off of ebay or something like that. Cause I don't think that the new model ones will work for 4th gens. It should be a 4 button, not 3, those are for altima's, and they won't work. And plus make sure your max has keyless remote as an option.
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