TSB for Timing Chain rattle
12-29-2003, 07:51 PM
#1
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Posts: 31
TSB for Timing Chain rattle
In regards to this TSB: <a href="http://www.jatan.net/tsbs/047941.pdf">09/11/96 RATTLE NOISE - TIMING CHAIN - VQ30</a>
Being a semi-knowledgable guy, I have done things like replacing my own alternator in my max (which was interesting to say the least) and replacing brake system components, clutch cylinders, etc. I am by no means a car afficianado, but would something like the process of replacing the timing chain guide and tensioner be something a guy like me could handle? I only ask because after looking at my haynes it appears that you have to do everything short of removing the engine from the engine bay. This would definitely be a 1-2 week project for me since I work a day job with computers and garage isn't heated (but is finally air conditioned).
Anyhow, any input on whether this is a diy or not. I'm up for doing it if people think it would be a good thing to do. Actually i'm kind of excited about getting that deep into it.
Thanks for any input.
Adam
Being a semi-knowledgable guy, I have done things like replacing my own alternator in my max (which was interesting to say the least) and replacing brake system components, clutch cylinders, etc. I am by no means a car afficianado, but would something like the process of replacing the timing chain guide and tensioner be something a guy like me could handle? I only ask because after looking at my haynes it appears that you have to do everything short of removing the engine from the engine bay. This would definitely be a 1-2 week project for me since I work a day job with computers and garage isn't heated (but is finally air conditioned).
Anyhow, any input on whether this is a diy or not. I'm up for doing it if people think it would be a good thing to do. Actually i'm kind of excited about getting that deep into it.
Thanks for any input.
Adam
12-29-2003, 11:06 PM
#3
man with parts the cheapest price you'll find including labor is like 1200 or so, maybe more. I dont think it would be that hard to do it. The tricky part is just marking where the chain and everything else goes. The real problem is just the tensioners but you might as well change everything else. If you have the time and the tools then you should go for it. I think you just might need more then a haynes manual for that job though. My mechanic did it with some seriously large nissan manual.
12-30-2003, 08:03 AM
#4
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Well, I am always in the market for a nissan manual vs the haynes, but from all appearances, the haynes does have all the steps to do what you need to do.
I've got most of the tools I would need and friends with the ones I don't have. I could also take a week of vacation and go down to a friend's south of me since his dad has a shop. He said he'd help me bore out the cylinders too.. yee-haw!
I've got most of the tools I would need and friends with the ones I don't have. I could also take a week of vacation and go down to a friend's south of me since his dad has a shop. He said he'd help me bore out the cylinders too.. yee-haw!
12-30-2003, 09:01 AM
#8
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 315
I recently changed my waterpump in my 96. I ordered the updated timing chain parts as well for my Max "while I was in there"
My grand scheme was to change the tensioner itself since I had to remove it to slack the chain to get the pump out....
Turns out you cant use the updated tensioner without using the supplied updated guide.
To change the guide you have to take the whole side cover off including the oil pan etc......
For that amouont of work, I'll deal with the intermittant slap noise just fine thank you!
My grand scheme was to change the tensioner itself since I had to remove it to slack the chain to get the pump out....
Turns out you cant use the updated tensioner without using the supplied updated guide.
To change the guide you have to take the whole side cover off including the oil pan etc......
For that amouont of work, I'll deal with the intermittant slap noise just fine thank you!
12-30-2003, 09:09 AM
#10
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 282
Originally Posted by mzmtg
Yes, but they are mostly 2.0 and 2.5 liter versions.
Why would you want that?
Why would you want that?
This was the theory with the SR20's at least when the chain tensioner would go...cuz u could get a JDM SR20 for like $400. But i dont know the price/availability of the 3.0
12-30-2003, 09:41 AM
#11
Originally Posted by G20Flyer
Well lets say u can probably find a JDM with only 30k miles on it. To do the chain its quoted as 14 hours of labor. For probably 5ish hours you could do an engine swap and have one with low mileage and it would solve the chain problem as well.
This was the theory with the SR20's at least when the chain tensioner would go...cuz u could get a JDM SR20 for like $400. But i dont know the price/availability of the 3.0
This was the theory with the SR20's at least when the chain tensioner would go...cuz u could get a JDM SR20 for like $400. But i dont know the price/availability of the 3.0
Sorry, my point is this: the "JDM" version of the VQ30DE is no better than the one we have. In some markets, it gets the variable intake manifold, but we can buy that aftermarket now too.
Just because it's JDM doesn't mean it's better.
12-30-2003, 11:03 AM
#12
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Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 1,024
Is it just noisy - or is it likely to cause damage or something??
I have a spare car that I can drive in the meantime while I'm doing the work on the max, so I don't mind getting in there and getting my hands dirty. I figure I could replace the water pump, chain, tensioner and guide etc in one go.
The oil pan has to be removed?? Are you serious? I though it was just the front cover and maybe jack the engine up a bit...
Does the chain even have to be replaced? Or just the tensioner? Damn that looks like a lot of work...
I have a spare car that I can drive in the meantime while I'm doing the work on the max, so I don't mind getting in there and getting my hands dirty. I figure I could replace the water pump, chain, tensioner and guide etc in one go.
The oil pan has to be removed?? Are you serious? I though it was just the front cover and maybe jack the engine up a bit...
Does the chain even have to be replaced? Or just the tensioner? Damn that looks like a lot of work...
12-30-2003, 11:33 AM
#13
Originally Posted by 69CHARGER_RT
I recently changed my waterpump in my 96. I ordered the updated timing chain parts as well for my Max "while I was in there"
My grand scheme was to change the tensioner itself since I had to remove it to slack the chain to get the pump out....
Turns out you cant use the updated tensioner without using the supplied updated guide.
To change the guide you have to take the whole side cover off including the oil pan etc......
For that amouont of work, I'll deal with the intermittant slap noise just fine thank you!
My grand scheme was to change the tensioner itself since I had to remove it to slack the chain to get the pump out....
Turns out you cant use the updated tensioner without using the supplied updated guide.
To change the guide you have to take the whole side cover off including the oil pan etc......
For that amouont of work, I'll deal with the intermittant slap noise just fine thank you!
12-30-2003, 11:45 AM
#14
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 315
Originally Posted by 95bluse
I beg to differ! I changed my tensioner to the new one and left the old guide in there. I used the access hole in the timing cover therefore could not change the guide, man that was a PITA, but I got it done (small hands). That got rid of the noise for a long time, until my mechanic changed the water pump. Now the noise is quite pronounced, and I have to visit him again. Maybe I'll need to put a new one in, since I have 225K miles on the Max. Either that or have him make "lengthen" it somehow to make up for the stretched chain. Anything would be chaeper than pulling off the timing cover.
I dont see how that was possible....if you tried the "updated" tensioner (not a replacement for your old one (different part #) youll notice that the mounting holes are drilled in a different spot. The whole premise of the update was to make the tensioner sit "tilted back" a bit so the oil does not drain back out of it causing the loss of prime and the chain rattle noise.
The updated tensioner & guide is a matched set because the contact point where the tensioner pushes on the guide is in a different location because of the new "tilted" mounting of the new style tensioner......
12-30-2003, 11:45 AM
#15
Originally Posted by twill
In regards to this TSB: <a href="http://www.jatan.net/tsbs/047941.pdf">09/11/96 RATTLE NOISE - TIMING CHAIN - VQ30</a>
Being a semi-knowledgable guy, I have done things like replacing my own alternator in my max (which was interesting to say the least) and replacing brake system components, clutch cylinders, etc. I am by no means a car afficianado, but would something like the process of replacing the timing chain guide and tensioner be something a guy like me could handle? I only ask because after looking at my haynes it appears that you have to do everything short of removing the engine from the engine bay. This would definitely be a 1-2 week project for me since I work a day job with computers and garage isn't heated (but is finally air conditioned).
Anyhow, any input on whether this is a diy or not. I'm up for doing it if people think it would be a good thing to do. Actually i'm kind of excited about getting that deep into it.
Thanks for any input.
Adam
Being a semi-knowledgable guy, I have done things like replacing my own alternator in my max (which was interesting to say the least) and replacing brake system components, clutch cylinders, etc. I am by no means a car afficianado, but would something like the process of replacing the timing chain guide and tensioner be something a guy like me could handle? I only ask because after looking at my haynes it appears that you have to do everything short of removing the engine from the engine bay. This would definitely be a 1-2 week project for me since I work a day job with computers and garage isn't heated (but is finally air conditioned).
Anyhow, any input on whether this is a diy or not. I'm up for doing it if people think it would be a good thing to do. Actually i'm kind of excited about getting that deep into it.
Thanks for any input.
Adam
12-30-2003, 11:52 AM
#16
Originally Posted by 69CHARGER_RT
I dont see how that was possible....if you tried the "updated" tensioner (not a replacement for your old one (different part #) youll notice that the mounting holes are drilled in a different spot. The whole premise of the update was to make the tensioner sit "tilted back" a bit so the oil does not drain back out of it causing the loss of prime and the chain rattle noise.
The updated tensioner & guide is a matched set because the contact point where the tensioner pushes on the guide is in a different location because of the new "tilted" mounting of the new style tensioner......
The updated tensioner & guide is a matched set because the contact point where the tensioner pushes on the guide is in a different location because of the new "tilted" mounting of the new style tensioner......
13091-31u26 chain guide sla
date on the UPC code is 01/03/02
Is this the same as yours?
12-30-2003, 12:24 PM
#17
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 282
Originally Posted by mzmtg
Sorry, my point is this: the "JDM" version of the VQ30DE is no better than the one we have. In some markets, it gets the variable intake manifold, but we can buy that aftermarket now too.
Just because it's JDM doesn't mean it's better.
Just because it's JDM doesn't mean it's better.
Oh i agree completely. My point was that you could get an engine with only 30k miles on it for maybe the same price as replacing the chain guide in a 140k mile engine, but youd still have 140k parts for everything else...so then itd be like i might as well just drop the engine in with fewer miles.
12-30-2003, 01:09 PM
#18
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 315
Originally Posted by 95bluse
Hmm..you make a good point, I seem to remember that the tensioner seemed a little weird in the way it sat, but it still contacted the part of the chain guide that was there for the original. Here's my part # of the kit I bought:
13091-31u26 chain guide sla
date on the UPC code is 01/03/02
Is this the same as yours?
13091-31u26 chain guide sla
date on the UPC code is 01/03/02
Is this the same as yours?
Dont have the part # handy.....bought the kit from Courtesy Nissan and returned the receipt with the kit....
12-30-2003, 05:58 PM
#20
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 31
wow. great responses everyone. Thanks. I think I will tackle this one this summer at some point and time. See if I can round up a nissan manual and get to it.
Maybe try to upgrade a few things while i'm in there. Been a great car and one of few newer cars above 180k miles that still runs like a dream. For the little I have had to do to it and put into it, it's been worth every penny.
Maybe try to upgrade a few things while i'm in there. Been a great car and one of few newer cars above 180k miles that still runs like a dream. For the little I have had to do to it and put into it, it's been worth every penny.
12-31-2003, 05:51 AM
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