Does anyone know what the injectors should read on a 1995 nissan maxima.I read the front three, one had 12.7-13.0 ohm, another had 137 ohm, and the third had 13 K(thousand ohm).The last two seem messed up, would the car even run if both were messed up.The car has 95000 miles on it and one injector has been changed by the dealer before i bought the car(dont know which one). The car misfires on start up but then goes away, and today off the highway it started bucking badly? Thanks for the help

 

I think anywhere from 10-14 ohms...and basically check to see if they are all in the same range. I'd doublecheck the resistance again, and definitely replace that 13K ohm one. That 137 ohm could be bad as well...but just be sure it wasn't 13.7 ohms.

Yeah, an engine will run with failed fuel injectors, but as you have experienced not well. Just be happy it's the front ones and not the rear injectors (they are a PITA to get to).

 

Dont you have to take out the manifold anyway to change even the front ones?, or can you do it without removing the fuel rail?

 

Where is the best place to buy the injectors, is one company better than the other (Bosch, Wells).Pep Boys gave me a good deal and i was wondering if i should just change all the injectors instead of taking everything apart every time.

 

Good injectors show resistance of 10 to 14 ohms. Anything below or way above is definitely a sign of dying injector. Youl can also check them for sound, see if bad injectors click the same way the good ones are.
I had to replace a bad injector few month ago on the rear bank of cylinders (you can check my page for a how-to and pictures), so I have few tips for you. You can do the job yourself, it's even more simpler with upfront injectors.


*No, there is absolute no need to remove fuel rail.
*The screws that hold the cap over injector may soften over time from all that heat, be carefull not to mess up the thread, otherwise it's a pita to remove them (I had to )
*Injectors sit there firm, so you would need eaither to yienk (sp?) them really hard or devise some system (see picture below for what I did).

You can get injectors from Autozone for about $99 plus tax (in CT at least), or from Internet for about $80 (Bosch)
- I ordered my parts from www.thepartsbin.com
part # C1000-39011

 

are borg warner injectors any good, and i am debating on wether i should buy all six?( maybe some are clogged)?

 

If it's just the front ones, all you gotta do is disconnect the plug to the ones you gotta replace, and pull them out. No need to do anything else. The rear ones...you have to take the intake collector off...throttle body, airbox etc etc.

I'd strongly suggest just replace the ones that have just failed already. If a rear one failed, then yes, maybe replace all three back there...but if it's just the front ones...then don't.

Also, it's recommended you purchase some oem injector o-rings (upper and lower) and insulator when you replace them. It shouldn't cost more than $3 per injector for these items.

You can try calling courtesy nissan in texas at 1.800.527.1909, and tell them you're from maxima.org for a discount. Or you can goto www.nissan-auto-parts-dealer.com (dealer out of colorado). Both of them should have OEM injectors for less than $84 a piece. I go with the colorado one, because I live in Texas, and don't wanna pay sales tax. both have pretty similiar pricing (lowest I've seen for OEM).

Also, it's a good idea to depressurize ur fuel system before replacement. You do this by pulling the fuse to the fuel pump, and running the car until it dies. If you don't...you might squirt your eyes with fuel.

The easiest way I've found to remove them, is by placing two screwdrivers on each end of the injector, and pulling at the same time with great but gentle force. Installing them...use a light dab of motor oil around the o-rings, or they won't go in and u risk tearing the o-rings without oiling them.

 

0603 0604 0605 0606 0607 0608
If one cylinder is misfiring the problem is spark or fuel. A misfire due to a spark problem usually results in a Service Engine Soon light and one of these Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire

There are two tests the home mechanic can make, the sound test and the resistance test.

Sound test...
This test is performed with the engine idling. Use a mechanic's
stethoscope or a length of rubber vacuum hose, and listen to each injector.
All injectors should sound alike. If you find one which makes a different
sound (or no sound at all) you have found a problem.

Resistance test...
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.

Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.

Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.

The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a rubber tube.

To Test Ignition Coils:
With the ignition off, disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Connect the positive (+) probe of an ohmmeter to terminal no. 1 and the negative (-) probe to terminal no. 2 of the coil connector - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. Reverse the meter leads ( negative probe to terminal no. 1 and positive probe to terminal no.2) - the continuity should be indicated, but not zero ohms. If the results are not as specified, replace the coil.
Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminal ( the one that the spark plug connects to) and terminal no. 1 - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. If not, replace the coil.
Note - Ohm meter to test coils is not the most reliable way. Some peoples’ coils tested perfectly, but they still misfired.

 

Front Bank fuel injectors:
cylinder 2 = 0 (short)
cylinder 4 = 15-16 ohm
cylinder 6 = 12.5
Rear Bank fuel injectors:
cylinder 1 = 11.8
cylinder 3 = 17.5
cylinder 5 = 11.6
Which ones should i replace? Does it matter if three of the injectors are nissan factory and the other three are borg warner?

 

how do i check if the one thats shorted caused damage to ecu

 

this thread should be stickied

 

Don't worry about that. The injector is just dead. Just replace #2...it's definitely shot. #4 and #3 may be going, but it just be normal wear. If you still see an occasional misfire after the #2 replacement, then maybe check further...but get the definite dead one outta the way. I mean yah...it could technically happen...but haven't seen it (ECU damaged). Now maybe if you ran it for years like that (dead injector)...I wouldn't expect great things from it.

It really shouldn't matter which ones you mix and match...but in terms of longetivity (bosch vs borg warner vs oem), I couldn't tell you. I used OEM stuff, because it was cheaper than autozone, pep boys and checker stuff. I've seen some aftermarket higher flow injectors for less money (venom i think)...but have no need for high-flow injectors (wasted gas).

 

Pepboys said that one costs 110, but if i ordered two then they were 120 total for both( the guy said they come packaged in pairs). This seems weird.

 

If i buy the oem injector, does it come with the o-rings?

 

no

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