tomservo291

Everything I see in other peoples posts, and in the How-To's *always* refers to only the front brakes. Why? People talk about the rotors they changed and throw in (front) in parenthesis; is it like a sin to talk about changing the rear pads/rotors?

Is it the same setup as the front rotors or what? I plan on doing mine in a week or so and I'd like to know why the rear brakes are so hush hush...

tomservo291

wow i must be drunk, i spelt the topic "breaks"
please excuse my stupidity

98SterlingMax

It is quite similar except for the fact that the caliper piston must be screwed back in and not pushed back in like the fronts.

tomservo291

does this require a special tool or is there a screw on the caliper somewhere that does it? good thing you said that because that's the first I've heard of it

96explorerxlt

A lot more weight is pushed to the front during breaking and probably wears out the front brakes more than the rear ones.

tomservo291

im fully aware of this, but it doesn't change the fact that no one talks about changing rear rotors or how to do it, and as 98SterlingMax said they are infact changed in a different manner, that's what I was looking to know

shuefu

iTrader: (1)

There are special Brake Kits you can buy that has the right "key" to scren the piston in. With the front, you don't need it, that's why people just talk about the front.

NEW2DAGAME

iTrader: (1)

Its basically the same thing. Like stated before, the piston is turned in instead of pushed in. If you dont have the exact "tool", you can use needle nose pliers.

BORQUA79

As New said use the needlenose pliers and screw the caliper back instead of using the c clamp...besides that its the same. The tool to do it isnt important unless your doing everyone brakes out of your front yard... backs are easier than the front (my opinion) good luck... ohh take your time and seat the brakes afterward before you start racing around. Release the pressure by unscrewing the master cylinder a little, dont take it completely off you dont want any dust or bugs in it. also put a towel around the botom of the master cylinder to catch any spilled brake fluid because using the c clamp backs the pressure of the fluid back to the master cylinder... my 2 cents

-alex

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

Rather than pushing the dirty fluid back into the brake lines, open the bleeder valve prior to screwing the caliper piston back in (keep the master cylinder reservoir cap on). This way the dirty fluid is expelled from the brake lines. You may need to bleed the brakes after this, but it is a much better way of doing it.

BORQUA79

True that is the best way if you want to bleed your breaks... You would need two people one to depress the break and one to turn the bleeder valves one by one... Unless you get the self bleeder kit that allows you to do it on your own... along with plenty of new fluid to feed the master cylinder as the fluid level decreases... The fluid is no dirtier than it was before the new breaks, so bleeding it is your choice... Also check if your pedal feels mushy that means that you have air in the lines from not bleeding thoughly... Thats why I wouldnt bleed if you dont need to... Thats just my opinion...

-Alex

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

Alex,
True - I would still advise pushing the old fluid out of the system rather than back into the system - especially if you have ABS. Don't want all that moisture/dirty fluid getting pushed back up towards the ABS pump/channels. In addition, you will find that the dirtiest fluid in the system is in the caliper.. so you don't have to "bleed" much to get most of the really dirty stuff out. However, your point is well taken - it is much easier (if you're doing the brake job alone) to just open the master cylinder reservoir and retract the piston(s).

RoM_PmP

when ur screwin the cylinder back in..be careful so that u don't damage the rubber around it..

BORQUA79

Njmodi, I didnt know about the dirtiest fluid being by the caliper thats intresting... Now I know for my next brake job...

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

If you ever bleed your brakes, you'll find that the darkest fluid comes out right away (for the first few pumps of the brake pedal) after that it clears up. Don't assume that clean looking fluid is ok though, there are at least 2 reasons to keep the brake fluid reasonably fresh:

1. Contaminants (i.e. make it dirty)
2. Brake fluid is hygroscopic - i.e it absorbs moisture - and it loses its ability to provide the function it is there for (hydraulic pressure).

So unless you change your fluid frequently, pump the pedal quite a few times so that you are sure that you have gotten most of the old fluid out of the lines.