HOLY SH*T GUYS!!! I say this with no exaggeration i am the happiest that i've been in weeks!!!! I FIXED MY 2000 rpm cut off problem and the dumbest way too!!

I just woke up to move my car, last night i put on my ypipe, and 2 new 02 sensors and car sounded great but would not rev past 2000 rpm still. So this morning i check codes...

0704
0803
0208 <~~~ undefined, WTF and yes i made no mistake miscounting

then i thought about all the dumb issues i had in the past and where they were involved at...the ecu

so i jump on passenger side, i dont know what the heck wire does what but in the event that something is loose, i just start pushing everything towards the driver side, play around a little making sure to touch everything...

jump back on driver side, start the car which for some reason does NOT keep a consistent idle for its life, rev up to 2k and dont hear any cut off...then i rev up to 2500, no issues, then 3,000 no issues then 5,000 OMFG, i havent revved past 2k rpm for over a week!

Now the question is...what the heck is involved wit the ecu that would stop my car from revving past 2k rpm. Looking at the wires, its a jungle over there, even if u guys told me what does what it would be hard just to see...and thinking about it now, a friend that i dont normally associate wit was sitting shotgun when this happened...him and his timb boots might have caused this BS...ah well....or maybe even the carpet.


QUESTION: what causes car to stay at 2k rpm thats involved with the ecu and wiring? Anyone local can take a look ?

 

Well good to here makes me happy to hear it wasnt my fault (didnt think it was) If you need a 97 ecu I will have one in a month or so.

 

ha thanks, well my friend already has one and i'll use his if anything, but he plans to go to u for 5 speed conversion if things work out his way so u might want to hold that for him...

i keep getting absolute pressure sensor and evap sensor codes....they dont effect performance but i wonder if my dumb ecu is causing this....

btw, can the rubber thing on top of the IACV be replaced? mine is tore up, stripped beyond believe....and i still have to adjust my idle....

 

like you said its a jungle down thre and somebody kicked the wire and you moved it back in place thre really no need to find out whick wire as long as its working now, but when you get some free time you should dress those up to prevent this again. didnt i tell you it was probably your wiring to the ecu

 

Maybe he teared some wires up with his big boots?? :P

 

hahaha, yea man, and if i didnt know better, i would have went to dealer, they would have charged me 200 bucks to pusht he sh*t back in....

the org has been good to me

 

Don't know what exact part you are talking about on the IACV - however, I do have a 97 IACV (excellent working condition) sitting around... I would be happy to sell it to you (PM me if you are interested).


Glad to hear you got your bigger 2k RPM issue resolved.

 

absolute pressure sensor means that something is wrong with your MAFs. that can keep u from revving past 2rpm(make sure it is plugged in right). My IACV screw is tore up also just use pliers to adjust it

 

problem came back but if i play with wiring (push it in to ecu or lift it or lower it, i can rev past 2k rpm again but it soon goes back to this BS. I narrowed it down to 3 problems:

Engine coolant sensor is shown to be bad (fans stay on)
Problem fixed when i play with harness
ECU could be bad

it has to be one of these 3 problems. I say its harness or ecu because i got code 02 08 which is more general than the specific code for the sensor which is actually different.

the fact that this thing works time to time when i play with harness leads me to believe that its involved wit the ecu or harness. Plus my throttle doesnt stay at 0.0 on my SAFC. It fluctuates between 0.9% to as high as 27%. When i get chance i'll take out friends ecu and ghetto rig into my car for testing...if that fails i'll also put new used sensor in for replacment. Worst case scenario is the harness...dam i dont even know how to try to fix that

 

if you say it works when you move it around make sure the part where it attaches to the ecu is in tight and snug also make sure there are no loose wire being pulled. your motor mounts can contribute to the tugging of the wires also check for that.

 

^^^ yea, all this chattering shaking the sh*t out of the harness....well i just tried it in one spot and it still does the same thing, so its not all blamed on the motor mounts and shaking, unless when car revs the small vibration of engine shakes it off? i dont think thats possible....

and my CEL light comes on seconds after resetting. I'll change engine coolant temp sensor and pray to god thats the problem....

 

sometimes when the mounts are bad it actually pulls the whole harness which can cause a problem. i had a similar problem with my 02 sensor the light kept coming on i changed the sensor, still would come on after i reset it. it turned out to be my computer. i cant see sensors being the problem if you have 3-4 going off the same time. if you have another computer put that one in for a few days to see if the problem still exists. i know a place who sells them for about 200 with 1 yr warranty if all else fails.

 

yea my boy has one, i just have t ofind the time to take it off. plus junkyards normally have them for 125 but not sure about warranty.

 

plus i know from 97 up the added on some more sensors. so make sure the engine you got can work with those sensors and make sure the cali or fed is correct you might have to get a earlier yr comp.

 

i checked receipt and vin, it actually is from a 97 maxima...

 

OK, 2000 rpm issue finally solved!

My ecu reset screw has a lot of play. I can actually fit a flat head between screw and the rest of the ecu. I pulled over on the parkway without touching the harness, played wit screw a little, reset ecu, CEL light stayed on but car revs past 2k rpm now

Now i gotta fix my idle. For some reaosn car idles at 1800-2100 rpm constantly. I tried IACV adjusting, no good. When i unplug the gray sensor on TPS, idle drops back down but still fluctuates. When brown is taken off, throttle shows 100% on my SAFC and the idle shoots back up to 2k rpm.

I thought about the TPS and found that instead of 5 volts its either reading 4 volts or .04 volts.

Also the ohms seems to be 350 instead of 500. I'm gonna check this one more time in the morn wit a friend then move it around to hopefully get proper setting.

I just find it confusing that it hasnt been touched or moved since being on the last car, why does it need adjustment now?

 

maybe when they put it in they reset the computer with the screw. either way it looks like a ecu would solve your problems when those things go out of whack thats it. see if you can find one at the junk yard for about 60 bucks or so. i know morpheus 17 has a spare or two pm him and see he'll sell it dirt cheap if he still has them.

 

I'm refering to the ecu below the radio forward the shifter.

Tighten the bolt that holds it in place. The 1st 4th gen I put a remote start in did the same thing. I tapped the Tach wire at the ECU but didn't screw it all the way after I removed it.

 

When I forgot to put my ECU screw back to the counterclockwise direction my car was idling funny, and stalled right away.

 

i dunno...maybe ur wires are falling o ut of the connectors on the ECU..but glad ur all good now

 

My auto ECU is exactly the same. The reset screw is very touchy. If it is jostled out of position it will do wierd things similar to your descriptions. That is why I got an Auterra. I can read codes and reset the ECU without touching the screw. Set the screw to a point that it runs perfect and tape or glue it in. Then get a code reader cause you don't wanna deal with that **** ever again.