96jerzeymax

My 98 GLE is making a noise almost like someone is beating on a drum in the front when ever I hit a bump. I have new springs/struts tein s-tech springs, and KYB AGX struts. I was told that my CV Joints probably went and I need to replace the axle on both sides. Anyone done this b4....how hard is it? Any tips, tricks, or comments? Any input is appreciated.....

The_Bomb

A drum beating sound doesn't sound like it would be coming from the CV joint. CV joints themselves almost never wear out really, most of the time it is just the boot that rips and dirt and water get inside and that destroys the joint. Check to see if the boot is ripped open or damaged in any way. If it isn't then I would look elsewhere on the suspension for the noise. Honestly it sounds as if one of your struts is bad, but I could be wrong.

Adam

96jerzeymax

....the boots are bad

|Bijan|

iTrader: (12)

Air tools are on your side when changing axles. They are fairly simple to do.

There's a 36mm nut that holds the axle to the spindle. Thats going to be your main enemy. If you dont have air tools....good luck with breaking that loose. There's a cotter pin in the 36mm...save it.

There are 3 bolts on the passenger side axle about mid-way thru the axle. I think they're 8mm or 10mm. Once you get all those bolts loose...you wiggle it out and voila.

sryth

You're also looking at an alignment if you disconnect the knuckle at the strut; so plan on adding that to the total project price.

Tools:
*BIG breaker-bar/impact wrench
*36mm socket (that fits your breaker-bar/impact wrench)
*2-jaw puller (optional; borrow from Autozone)
*Standard socket set w/various extensions (I believe I use a 6" extension for the passenger's side mounting bolts)
*Jack/stands
*Hammer/piece of wood (might need these)

Basically:
*Not sure about the autos, but w/5spd you have to drain the fluid first.
*Remove wheel and put on spare (donut).
*Remove cotter-pin on the axle
*Use BIG breaker bar/impact wrench w/36mm socket to remove axle nut. (make sure the brakes are being applied or you're move the car)
*Remove donut and put the car on stands
*Disconnect the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle w/2-jaw puller and hang it out of the way (optional...and I wanna say 16mm)
*Pop the brake hose from it's clip on the strut (do *not* disconnect the brake line from the caliper)
*Disconnect the steering knuckle from the strut (two bolts...19mm/17mm IIRC)
*Remove 3 bolts holding axle mounting bracket to block (passenger's side only; I think these are 10mm)
*Slide knuckle off of axle end (use a hammer to *tap* it through)
*Pull out the axle (you might need to use a block of wood+hammer to tap them out; sometimes they don't want to come out of the tranny)

Installation is the reverse...IIRC, you line up the C clips so the joint is on top...I usually use a piece of wood and hammer to tap the new axles in.

As for the tie-rod end being optional, I only say this because I've read of people that do this job without touching it.

Also, you want to be careful w/that brake hose...don't break it. It's generally not a good idea to let the knuckle hang unsupported at the top. And don't put the car back together w/o axles...you're damage your wheel bearings.

(Did I miss anything, guys?)

salgue

the three bolts are 12mm. i did mine without touching the tie rod end. just unbolted the lower strut mount and moved the whole assembly out of the way.