I own a '96 GXE, which I bought my car used in 1997 and was told it was a rental before I bought it. It has over 93,000 miles on it, so I expected to eventually have some problems with it but not to the extent that I have.

My fiance was driving on the freeway when it over-heated one day out of the blue.

I had the cooling system checked by two different Firestone service centers. I was informed by both that not only could they not find a problem, but they couldn't duplicate the problem either.

I then took it to a Nissan dealer in my area who informed me that they weren't sure what the problem was but recommended that I allow them to replace the thermostat and to do some work on the radiator. (I know nothing about cars, so I honestly can't tell you exactly what they wanted to do to the radiator.) I was told that they couldn't guarantee that this would solve my problem but it was where they suggested that I start. I informed them that I wasn't interested in paying money for them to "experiment" on my vehichle and informed them that I would have someone else look at it. At that time I was advised that they'd "put the car on their machine" and spend a little more time searching for the cause of the problem. A few hours later, I was told that the repairs earlier recommended would definitely solve my problem. These repairs cost me over $300, but the problem was gone once I got the car back. It didn't sound or drive quite the same, but I didn't think too much of it.

Maybe two weeks later, I'm driving down the street, traveling about 35 mph when the car simply stops accelerating. When I gave it gas it would rev (as if it were in nuetral, but it wouldn't move.) Although I hadn't had any kind of warning signs, I immediately suspected that the transmission had gone, so I pulled to the curb and tried shifting back and forth from park to reverse to drive (and back ), but nothing happened. After turning the vehicle off and restarting it, I was able to get it to accelerate, but only until I reached 30 mph or so, then it would slip back out of gear. It took me about 30 minutes, but I was able to drive it to another Nissan dealer who advised me that the transmission did need to be replaced along with the radiator. The price they quoted me was prohibitive ($2,800 for the transmission and $400 for the radiator), so I had it towed to an Ammco Transmission shop who after having the car for 2 days, confirmed the Nissan dealers' diagnosis of the problem. I made the mistake of letting them see the Nissan's dealer's invoice before they inspected the vehicle. Although they quoted me a price of between $1,200 and $1,600 to replace the transmission over the phone, after inspecting it the price rose to $2,200. When I asked what happened to the original quote, I was informed that my car needed more extensive work then I'd advised them of originally. When I advised him to put my car back like they found it and that I was coming to pick it up, I was advised that they had already invested over 8 hours in labor to determine the cause of my problem and would have to charge me for that (which totaled over $500.) I informed him that I was coming to pick up my car and would pay their "extortion" fees, but I was filing a complaint with the Better Business Bureau. I was told then by the manager that he would check with his regional manager to see if he could get me the wholesale price on the transmission. He eventually quoted me a new price of just over $1,900. I was convinced by now that the transmission was definitely shot and though I knew I was being over-charged, I accepted the second price quoted and had the work done.

They replaced the transmission and advised that I have the cooling system check asap as the transmission problem was caused by a problem with the cooling system which it not fixed, would ruin the new transmission.

Then, less than a week after I had the transmission replaced, I began having a problem starting the car. The car wouldn't start with the emergency brake up, but once I put the emergency brake down, it would turn right over. I had just spent nearly $2,500 in the last month and a half on car repairs (not to mention the $500 or so spent on rental cars) and couldn't afford to be without a car, so I haven't taken the car back to Aamco.

Then, today I sat down preparing to start the engine and put my foot on the brake pedal. When I did this everything went black and I could hear a "fizzing" sound behind the dash board. When I took my foot of the brake, the lights on the dash came back on, but were dim. When I turned the ignition, the lights would flicker and I get a clicking sound, but it wouldn't turn over and that's where I stand now.

Like I said, I don't know a thing about cars, so I don't know if this is all related to the original "repairs", the replaced transmission or some other problem and at this point, any trust I may have had in auto mechanics is gone, so I don't know what to do. I think I've been screwed by both the Nissan dealer and Aamco, but with no real knowledge of cars, I have no way of proving it and don't know where to start.

I know I've written a small novel, but if anyone has had the patience to read all of this and can give me any direction, I can't tell you how much it would be appreciated.

 

If you live in the Los Angeles area. I can recomend a really good mechanic. Hes my next door neighbor and runs a nissan shop in the San Fernando Valley called Sam's Datsun. Sorry I cant be more help in diagnosing your problem but the only car Ive worked on extensively is my mustang, maybe Daniel B. could help. Anyhow good luck.

 

Wow, quite the assortment of problems! I'm not Daniel Martin, but here's my best shot.

It is very possible that there was a problem with your cooling system (i.e. radiator, fans, pressure, thermostat, etc..), and this lead to both your engine overheating and transmission failure. Attached to the bottom of the radiator is a small fluid exchange area for transmission fluid, known to some as the "transmission cooler" (although it does a lousy job of cooling the fluid). The transmission cooler dissipates heat from the transmission fluid through both plain radiation to the outside air and with the engine coolant which is flowing directly above it. With your radiator compromised, your transmission fluid may have gotten very hot and cooked your transmission as well. It is a shame that the initial inspection of your cooling system failed to find evidence of radiator failure. It is highly unlikely that your transmission failed due to your sudden cooling system failure. Have you been checking both your coolant and ATF levels? Brown or tarnished ATF (burnt smell) is a sure sign of overheated fluid. Low coolant, well you know what that means. Read below for what higher than normal coolant level may indicate.

A cursory inspection of the cooling system usually first checks for proper coolant level, evidence of leaks, and pressure tests both the radiator and the radiator cap. This can detect conditions where the radiator is not flowing properly (clogged). I've seen cases where the radiator itself warped and the cap did not fit on properly, causing the coolant overflow tank to fill up and spill out, leaving the actual radiator bone dry! Other possible problems with your cooling system that should have been checked was for proper operation of the radiator fan and associated switches and sensors. It could have been as simple as a $7 fan switch!

If you heard a groaning or surging noise from the engine, it is possible your water pump is shot. This is highly unlikely though. And yes, the thermostat may be stuck in the closed position, restricting coolant flow.

I would say get it all fixed. After that, proper maintenance and careful monitoring of underhood fluid levels should keep your cooling system and transmission up and going for the next 100k miles. For your reference, I change my coolant and ATF every 15k miles (drain and refill both).

As for your starting problem, I cannot imagine for the life of me why the parking brake would affect it at all! I mean, it is a mechanical system, and the parking brake can be off and the car should still start. Usually a clicking sound but no start is a sign of a weak battery. Measure the battery with a voltmeter, is it over 12V? If not, it's too weak to start the engine. If you get cranking but the engine does not turn over, well there are a bunch of possible reasons that I will not list here (do a search for starting problems, Dan Martin has posted the answer dozens of times).

If you are in the San Francisco Bay Area, I recommend you try out the mechanic I take my car to. It's Tak's Auto Repair and he is the Japanese car guru. His prices are great and he is super honest.

Hope that was helpful. Any other questions or comments, please email me instead of replying to this post.

 

wow...that's a big mess of problems! @_@;
I'd say try a reliable LOCAL mechanic--I never trust chain businesses like aamaco/midas/monro - they usually screw you ovre somehow by using inferior parts, or incomplete/shoddy work.

It's tough to find these guys though--ask around. Especially ask car enthusiasts, like on here or other forums, in your area.

It did sound like your tranny was gone though.

:}
lime

 

Chances are it could have been a dirty/clogged radiator, faulty thermostat, low coolant level or a fan that was not working properly (doubtful since it happened on the highway.

It is possible that an overheating engine could cause this since the tranny is cooled along with engine coolant and depending how long the car was driven with an overheating motor.

With such major work being done on the tranny R&R, it is possible that some damage was either done at the time or someone forgot to put/connect something back where it belongs. Hope this helps out.

I would take the car back and fight tooth and nail to get it resolved. Or try to find a trustworthy local mechanic to steer you in the right direction.

 

Thank you for the long and detailed description of your car's symptoms and repair history. This is certainly a horror story. You have come to this forum seeking help and all we can do is say ... with sympathy ... that you have come too late. At this point in time all we can do is speculate about what might have happened and why. It's too late to pin the blame on Nissan or Aamco or both. It's not certain that there is any blame to be pinned.

You admit "I don't know a thing about cars". That's not a crime, but knowledge and information are the best weapon the consumer has. Please consider taking a non-credit adult education course in basic automotive technology. This will not make you a mechanic, but it will give you a basic understanding of terminology and an ability to negotiate with a service facility without feeling like a complete victim.

Previous respondents in this thread have given thoughtful and accurate information about what happened, might have happened, could have happened. I can't disagree with anything they said. I do have one idea which hasn't been mentioned, at least not directly.

If the transmission fluid heat exchanger (the "fluid cooler") in the radiator was cracked, this would allow engine coolant to mix with the Automatic Transmission Fluid. This is a recipe for disaster! Coolant in the ATF leads to rapid failure of the transmission. I wish someone who played a role in this drama would have noticed the symptoms. The principal symptom would be exhibited on the automatic transmission dipstick. The ATF is normally translucent and ruby red in color. If it is a milky pink color (Pepto-Bismol) you have coolant in the fluid and that is big trouble. Who should have caught this? Maybe the man who fixed the radiator. Maybe the man who fixed the transmission. Maybe you, if you had only known what to look for.

Here is what the car owner (even the hopelessly non-mechanical car owner) should know about what may be learned from the automatic transmission dipstick.

1) Level.
It should be up to the full mark. If not, add as required.

2) Color.
It should be bright red and translucent. A brown or black color is a sign of fluid degraded by excessive heat, and/or worn friction materials. A milky pink color is a sign of water contamination.

3) Odor.
It should have a clean oily smell. A burned odor is a sign of fluid degraded by excessive heat.

4) Feel.
Wipe the dipstick with your fingers and then rub your fingers together. It should be smooth and slippery. A "gritty" feeling is a sign of worn friction materials.


In conclusion, you have not been served well by two different repair facilities. However there is no "smoking gun" evidence that clearly implicates one or the other. The best you can do is go back, make a detailed complaint, and follow up with a written complaint. Make a point to get the name of the shop manager, the technician(s) who worked on your car, and anyone else you speak to. Let them see you are making written notes.


You could...

- Make a complaint to the Better Business Bureau. These are seldom productive.

- Make a complaint to Nissan.
Nissan Motors Corporation USA
Consumer Affairs Department
PO Box 191
Gardena CA 90248-0191
1-800-NISSAN1 (1-800-647-7261)
nnaconsumeraffairs@nissan-usa.com

- Make a complaint to your state Attorney General. However, he/she is mostly interested in businesses which engage in false advertising (bait-and-switch) or widespread fraud (installing used parts and billing for new).

- Appeal to a local television station's Consumer Advocate whose on-screen coverage could be embarassing.

- Sue in Small Claims Court for a full refund of monies paid.

 

Good call with the ATF mixing with coolant. But the mechanic should have spotted that. I mean, the coolant overflow tank should have been red too.

As for learning about cars, buy the Chiltons and Haynes manual, read it cover to cover and you will know pretty much everything there is to know about Maximas for less than $20.

 

I would be so hesistant to purchase a used car that has been used as a rental. I'm sure most of the people who drive those rentals abuse them.

 

Your attitude is understandable, but this horror story does not sound like a case of rental abuse. The coolant system failed and the transmission was the victim of consequential damage. Terrell137 bought this ex-rental unit in 1997. Abusive driving which may have occurred in 1996 should not be blamed for a radiator problem which developed in 2001.

 

Perhaps either the terminal connections on the battery are not tight enough causing a weak battery symptom or the battery is going bad. Have it checked out.

 

Thanks to all who've responded so far.

Has anyone ever heard of the starting problem I'm experiencing. I just tried again this morning to start it and it still goes dead when I step on the brake.

I'm parked on a slope and I think it will turn over if I release the parking brake and take my foot off the brake pedal. However if it doesn't, I'll have to push it back up into my parking space, so I'm going to block the tires and give it a try.

I'll let you know how it goes.

By the way, I do live in the San Fernando Valley and will give Sam's Datsun a call tomorrow. Thanks for the reference.

 

I vaguely recall someone having a problem very similar to what you are describing. Basically, it turned out that there was a grounding problem in the car, and the movement of the parking brake made the ground connection good/bad. Sorry I can't be more detailed, but I suggest you check any electrical connections around your parking brake, or look under the car while someone is applying and releasing the parking brake. Take note of any metal parts that come into contact or dis-connect as the brake is being applied/dis-engaged. I hope this helps.

DW

 

Almost sounds like it is vacuum related. Try this out.....Start the car and rev up (after warmup) to about 2000-2500 rpms. Then apply your brake. If it dies, then it is somehow electrical. If it starts to idle like sheet but still wants to run then it is a vacuum problem more than likely. You are talking about the regular brake and not the the emergency correct?

 

WOW DBM its totally the man for thinking of that. If that's not the case it COULD be electrics around the braking...huh...out of my league now! :} I'm just a gurl!

 

Could you give the address, phone number, and person who I should contact at Sam's Datsun (Sam?) .
Thanks

 

It won't start at all!!!

I blocked the wheels, released the emergency brake and then tried to start it and.....nothing. The dash board lights dim, but I don't get anything...

The door and overhead lights all light up fully until I turn the ignition to start the car, then they dim also. But until I turn the key they work regularly, so I don't think it's a battery problem. However, I'm going to take the battery to autozone tomorrow to be tested before I take the car to another mechanic...

 

It would be instructive to try starting your car with booster cables connected to another vehicle. If it starts normally, the spotlight of suspicion falls on your battery or battery connections.

 

If the car isn't even turning over, it could be the starter, solenoid (if the starter spins but doesn't crank), or as someone had already mentioned, a bad ground.

-V