If you've replaced your ignition coils recently, read in here!
The funny thing is grey - it easier to change the coils than is it change the oil - by around 15 minutes. Heck, my dog drunk on nyquil could change the coils.
My fustration is the fact that I can't get coils up here cheaper than $100USD each from any parts store and no one has it in stock / not even junk-yards. I heard of a place for $60 - where are you guys buying it from?
My fustration is the fact that I can't get coils up here cheaper than $100USD each from any parts store and no one has it in stock / not even junk-yards. I heard of a place for $60 - where are you guys buying it from?
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,205
www.rockauto.com. I don't know if they deliver to Canadia. 
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 19
How to install ignition coils - 2000
This reply is for anyone looking for detail on how to install ignition coils. I just installed all 6 in my 2000 Maxima in under an hour. It could have taken less time if I didn't drop a screw!
There are two types of coils - 3 for the front and 3 for the rear. I ordered them from Woodmen Nissan in Colorado (a wholesale Nissan parts dealer) for $59 each plus freight but without tax to Illinois. See them at http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...cfm?siteid=722
As mentioned, the coils in the front are located under the plastic cover that says Nissan V6 3000. The cover is held on by four screws that can be removed with an allen wrench.
The front coils are held in place by one bolt each. Unscrew the bolt, pull the coil partway out, and release the wire by pushing on the connector. Simple!
The rear coils are in the back of the engine. They're harder to reach but the process for removal is the same - remove the screw, pop off the connecter, and pull out the coil. I couldn't get enough leverage to push on the connector with my finger so I used a socket extension - pushing on the button while using my other hand to pull off the cap.
I had a bit of difficulty putting in the new coil on the rear drivers side so I loosened the two bolts holding the throttle cable. I moved the cables an inch or so out of the way. This gave the coil a straight path which allowed it to go right in.
Tools required were a metric socket, 6" extension, and driver plus an allen wrench. My shop quoted over $1,000 for parts and installation. I paid less than $400 for the coils and freight. That's the first time I've been paid $600 an hour for anything!
There are two types of coils - 3 for the front and 3 for the rear. I ordered them from Woodmen Nissan in Colorado (a wholesale Nissan parts dealer) for $59 each plus freight but without tax to Illinois. See them at http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...cfm?siteid=722
As mentioned, the coils in the front are located under the plastic cover that says Nissan V6 3000. The cover is held on by four screws that can be removed with an allen wrench.
The front coils are held in place by one bolt each. Unscrew the bolt, pull the coil partway out, and release the wire by pushing on the connector. Simple!
The rear coils are in the back of the engine. They're harder to reach but the process for removal is the same - remove the screw, pop off the connecter, and pull out the coil. I couldn't get enough leverage to push on the connector with my finger so I used a socket extension - pushing on the button while using my other hand to pull off the cap.
I had a bit of difficulty putting in the new coil on the rear drivers side so I loosened the two bolts holding the throttle cable. I moved the cables an inch or so out of the way. This gave the coil a straight path which allowed it to go right in.
Tools required were a metric socket, 6" extension, and driver plus an allen wrench. My shop quoted over $1,000 for parts and installation. I paid less than $400 for the coils and freight. That's the first time I've been paid $600 an hour for anything!
Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 90
I've only had one coil pack go and that was at around 80k. And yes I do have the sh!ty hanshin coils. But like I said only one has ever given me any troubles. Also, it's the owners responsibility to keep thier car in good running condition. Mechanical and electrical parts fail everyday, Why do you think warranties expire? Warranties don't go bad, the parts they cover do and the manufacturer's know this and adjust the availibility of a warranty accordingly.
wow, you guys just WANT to pay for ignition coils , and since you WANT him to lose, then you all might as well buy ignition coils for all of us. cuz I know for sure I wouldnt mind new coils. (douschebags....)
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2
Since we're on the subject of ign. coils... My daughter's '99 I30 had the CEL come on, bought the code reader, came up with P1320 & P0304. After reading all of the posts , checked the coils with an ohm meter and they checked out fine. The car runs ok, although she did report intermittant rough idling. I erased the codes and took it for a long test ride, the light stayed off and it runs good. Any other items I should check that could be related to those CEL codes? Thanks
Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 90
Originally Posted by Eric23
Since we're on the subject of ign. coils... My daughter's '99 I30 had the CEL come on, bought the code reader, came up with P1320 & P0304. After reading all of the posts , checked the coils with an ohm meter and they checked out fine. The car runs ok, although she did report intermittant rough idling. I erased the codes and took it for a long test ride, the light stayed off and it runs good. Any other items I should check that could be related to those CEL codes? Thanks
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2
I'm going to replace an ignition coil this evening. The Haynes manual says to disconnect the battery. Not particularly wanting to disrupt my daughter's radio pre-sets etc. it would be nice not to have to go through that step. Certainly don't want to fry myself or any circuitry just to appease my daughter. Any feedback? BTW the CEL came on again and got another P1320 code. I've come to the conclusion that my inexpensive Walmart mulitmeter is probably not up to the task of correctly testing the coils.
Originally Posted by Eric23
I'm going to replace an ignition coil this evening. The Haynes manual says to disconnect the battery. Not particularly wanting to disrupt my daughter's radio pre-sets etc. it would be nice not to have to go through that step. Certainly don't want to fry myself or any circuitry just to appease my daughter. Any feedback? BTW the CEL came on again and got another P1320 code. I've come to the conclusion that my inexpensive Walmart mulitmeter is probably not up to the task of correctly testing the coils.
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