hacim105

iTrader: (6)

I am having problems with my clutch and I need to replace the rear main seal. What all should I replace when installing a new clutch.

I am going to change the following for sure:
Clutch disc
pressure plate
release bearing
pilot bushing
rear main seal & dust seal
dust boot

is there anything else I should change other gaskets or seals I should know about? I am also either going to change the axle seals or buy some raxle axles.

One other thing, could my rear main seal leak be causing problems with shifting? Because there are times when I have to struggle to put the car in gear.
Thanks for your help

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

You got everything. I just did the same work myself 2 weeks ago. You probably read my thread on it. You don't need new pilot bushings, it doesn't touch anything nor wear out. It's there for the alignment tool to rest on. The input shaft doesn't even touch that part.

Bobo

You might want to turn/resurface the flywheel it it needs it.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Oh and while you are at it pull out the crank position sensor and clean it. You will see a huge build up of metal shavings in it. Clean it off and also spray some degreaser on the electrical connections. It might be a good idea to check the engine mount on the transmission. Mine has a small crack in the rubber mount and I know it'll get worse so I'm in the market for engine mounts.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

DR-Max, what alignment tool did you end up using? There is a multipurpose alignment tool down at my local auto parts store for $25. It looks like it will suit my needs, but I was just curious what you used.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

My buddy has a few Nissan alignment tools in his shop. We used the 4th gen alignment tool.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

That must have been convenient. Did he have a lift that you used? What about tie rod removal tool?... I still need to get one of those.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

He has everthing I needed!!! It is such a big convenience to have the car on hydraulic lifts. You have all the leverage and space you need...no back aches there. For tie rod and lower ball joint removal, we used a gear puller to preserve the rubber boots. He pulls and installs transmissions day in and day out. His dad rebuilds them. He used to work for a bus company as a transmission R&R guy. His been doing this for more than 10 years now, his dad 30+ years. Now him and his dad are in business, they are on their 2nd year and they are about to open another shop soon.

hacim105

iTrader: (6)

What is the tie rod and when do you remove it? I have a haynes manual so I will be following those instructions. I'm a little nervous but I think I can do it.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

You definitely need one. You'd be lost w/o it. The tie rod and lower ball joint needs to be disconnected so that you can pull the steering knuckle off of the axle splines. If you don't do this, you will not be able to remove your driveaxles thus you won't be able to drop the transmission. It's a $13 dollar investment, you will use it for as long as you own your car.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Good call on using the gear puller... some people just use a pickle fork which can really fucc **** up!! I am thinking about about buying this one tie rod removal tool that looks alot like a little gear puller... infact it looks like a mini pitman arm puller.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

I dont know if I believe this, but there was a thread on here recently that asked for people's experience with removing the CV axles... http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ighlight=axles, and some claimed that if they turned the tire correctly, they could actually get the cv axle off with out having to disconnect the tie rod.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

I can see why one would use a pickle fork if the old rubber boots are already torn and leaking. Just jam the pickle fork in and hammer away.

When I changed the rack n pinion boot on my max a few months ago, I rented a gear puller from Kraggen for $30.

hacim105

iTrader: (6)

Do you mean the gear puller is a $13 investment. I think I will do that because I don't want to mess things up.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

I'd worry about that because what if you are driving and turning and then all of a sudden......POP! CV's are disconnected.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

The Chilton or Haynes manual is $13...that's how much I paid several years ago.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

I think I need to replace that boot as well. What did yours look like?

maxgazm

I did my clutch last week. In the Volvo shop that I work at. I was able to remove the axels, without removing the tierods.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

If they're bad, there's a split in the rubber and you'll see it leak. Just push into the rubber part and if it is brittle or cracked, chances are its going to split and leak eventually.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

It's a matter of preference. I did it for ease, besides I have the tools to do it so why not. Try pulling the steering knuckle off the axle w/o disconnecting the tie rod, its a bich!

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Yup... looks like I need to replace it then. The strange thing is that there is a lot of crud build up typical of a slow leak, but my PS fluid has not moved a bit since my last flush 20K ago...

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

You do not need to disconnect the tie rods nor mess with the ball joint to get the axles out. You simply disconnect the lower strut bolts and then turn the knuckle down and out. Tap the end of the axle with a mallet and gently remove the axle end. There is enough room. You just don't want to tear the axle boots on anything so just be careful.

Speaking of "do not's", you do not have to remove the crossmember. You do not have to drop the y-pipe. A Gear Wrench set will help you remove the bolts you need to with the tight spaces. Although it can be tricky, not having to drop the crossmember and Y-pipe will save you a boat load of headache and also make it safer.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

I do understand why you don't need to disconnect the lower balljoint and outter tierod. However, I did it my way because #1 its easier, #2 it easily allows for straight removal of axles, & #3 its less stress on the balljoints while you are yanking and pulling.



That's a given.


School's out!

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

You're the one who is pushing Haynes Bible. They tell you to drop the crossmember and Y-pipe. I am just saying you don't need to. Just because I would do it differently doesn't mean your way or any other way is worse. I am merely putting it out there so whoever is about to embark on the project is aware of the alternatives and can decide for himself. And just because you had difficulty getting the axle out without disconnecting the tie rods doesn't mean it has to be so--it is cake. I would never choose to disconnect the ball joint or the tie rods when an easier way exists. So you have some big bad tranny guy helping you--big woop-tee-doo!

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

All I'm saying is its common sense. And I did most of the work myself! He was helping me with actual clutch job as I have not done it before. The removal and reinstallation was 90% me. He has a shop to run, and I wasn't going to take most of his time and not pay him cash. I did rent his lift and tools. Since it was my first clutch job, I didn't wanna fk anything up in there so yes I was using common sense #1 to get qualified help and #2 for not doing unnecessary work. I'm not pushing anything, just what was the easiest and less damaging route for me. What's the point doing it the easy way when you are most likely going to damage something else? With old balljoints like those in our cars, why apply unnecessary stress on them? I had a good reason why I didn't do it your way.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

Fair enough. I would say the ball joint stress rationale is not valid though. If the ball joint can't handle the knuckle resting down and out (at the limit of it's range of motion), then you should be driving on it and should get it replaced while your there. You don't have to pull and tug on the knuckle or the joint. Once the mallet strike frees up the axle splines from the knuckle, you just have to baby it out and watch the boot while you are doing it (mainly from scraping the bottom of the strut). I can easily have the axle out while you'd be still trying to disconnect the tie rods or ball joint. never mind about accidently tearing the tie rod or ball joint boots. But like I said, to each his own. Sorry if I got a little testy.