jp_cout

I experienced some hesitation problems with my '99 maxima...according to what I read in here, I supposed that the coilpacks were faulty but I didn't knew wich one...so I bought one of each (front and back) and switched them one after the other with no more result...before to do all of this, I went to a nissan dealer wich noticed a trouble with the MAF, wich I changed for a used one who were suppose to work properly...so at this point, none of all the coilpacks switches have improved anything in the matter....so the only thing that I can think is that the MAF is faulty again...??!!...the ecu isn't throwing codes except for the 05 05 one (wich means nothing anormal)...what sould I do next?? I have a short ram intake, budget Y-Pipe, flowmaster exhaust....note that the problem was there before I install all of this suff....any ideas??

thanks!
J-P

9maxima5

iTrader: (7)

clean the iacv valve. I had a some what same experience and when I took the valve out it was completely black. I then cleaned it and it ended up being gold. There is a sticky on how to clean it. I did it yesterday first time and took about 35 min. Just my .2 cents.

jp_cout

thanks for the quick reply dude...I'm looking in the stickies to fin out a pic of that IACV valve and I can't find one..

BigLou93SE

iTrader: (10)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=365653
Here ya go.

JwaxMax99

iTrader: (14)

It's to the right of the throttle body opening. 3 bolts, 12mm. I believe. Remove 1 hose and 3 connectors and 1 connector bracket, 10mm.
The lower IACV 12mm bolt is harder to get, a flex socket and long extesion.
Or I used a 1/4 drive ratchet, I was able to get under there, but it's tight. Mine was black carbon coated. IACV cleaning helped my car alot off idle. First I did Throttle body clean, did not do a thing for my engine.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Take your short ram intake setup off and put the stock intake back on while you trouble shoot the car.

jp_cout

thanks guys for the help and the pictures...!!really appreciated! ..should I clean it to the metal or if it's a plastic thing??..also, for the intake setup, I bought a CAI but I didn't have the time to install the full kit...(I'm not really sure where to drill the 3.5" hole and don't want to drill it at the wrong place..) I've seen a couple of pictures of it but, when i hold the pipe extension and try to figure out where it sould come to, nothing is making sense..I'll try later when I would have fixed my problem..

thanks!

jp_cout

BTW my idle is very smooth and regular...the problem is only a mid or WOT throttle....it works like if it were on 5 cyl or 4.5 instead of 6..??! I feel a big difference between when it works and when it's not....'cause the problem is intermittent....it works good when cold but power decreases at normal operating temp..

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Dead KS? Bad gas, only use 92+

jp_cout

that's what I,m using...91 octane (the highest I can find in here...)

jp_cout

should I use some octane booster to put in my gas or 91 octane is enough?? I always used 91 octane in my previous integra and CRX and I works great...any ideas?

killcrap

iTrader: (3)

so you only bought 2 coil packs? whats wrong with you get all 6 and your problems will go away.

jp_cout

the wrong thing is that for two coilpacks, it cost me 212$...so for 6, it will be 636$....and so far, while I was switching thes f***ing coilpacks all around, there's nothing different wich means that it's not the problem...so, I don't want to be stuck with 6 coilpacks for 636$ and not being able to return them or to be stuck with the same problem, 600 bucks later....that's what's wrong with me....I tought that I had a coilpacks problem so that's why I bought only 2 of them, only to test them...but nothing changed....so the problem is elsewhere,,,,the MAF or something else...

killcrap

iTrader: (3)

ok whatever, i just told you what the problem was. if it is your maf sensor, tap it at idle, and see if the rpms rise.. otherwise get the coil packs. www.jerryromenissan.com

IGNITION COIL (Right, Mitsubishi Type) 2244831U11 $80.08 $160.16

IGNITION COIL (Left, Mitsubishi Type) 2244831U16 $76.87 $153.74

Previous subtotal: $313.89
-20% promotion discount "": $62.78
New subtotal: $251.11
Shipping and Handling: $17.57
Sales Tax:
TOTAL: $268.69



you got ripped off on thoes coils.

97MaximaSE

the same thing happened to me...i replaced all coils, 3 mafs, coolant temp sensor you name it i replaced it. stupid annoying hesitation. well eventually it all turned out to be a broken/breaking wire in the egi harness. dont waste anymore money like i did. The only real way to find out is to open the harness or wait till a wire finally breaks. Unfortunatly its broken on my 3 times so far and AAA has come in handy. On the plus side every sensor in my car has been replaced and it runs great now

JwaxMax99

iTrader: (14)

Man, that's expensive troubleshooting.....good experience though....

97MaximaSE

i replaced everything in the car that can cause hesitation except injectors........electrical problems suck

jp_cout

it costs me 212 CAD for only 2 coilpacks..??! why are they so cheap??? anyway, if the problem doesn't go away after the MAF checkup, I'll buy the next 4 ones and be will sleep better knowing that these ****ty coilpacks are brand new!!

thanks for the tip!!

J-P

jp_cout

how about these ones??

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...99&catalogid=1

RiggZola

I had the very same thing happen to me. Same code 0505. But the check engine light kept coming back so I didn't worry about it. Just recently the car started running rough. I checked the codes again and got 0605 and 0201 - coil pack. I'm going to replace it but can't find out where Cylinder #4 is (code 0605). Anyone know what cylinder #4 is?

killcrap

iTrader: (3)

Bulkhead
|135|
|246|
Radiator/Condenser

jp_cout

after being at the dealer wich wasn't able to find the problem, one guy at JRP suggested me to try this: unplug all the 02 sensors and see what happen...when the engine is cold, the circuit is in loop mode wich do not modify the injection and the ignition and...once the engine is warm, the sensors start to read and reajust all the stuff...so, if one of them is faulty and doesn't throw a code, the engine is freaking out and don't deliver as much performance like it's suppose to do...so, if they are all unplugged and the engine is not freaking when warm, one of the 02 sensors is bad....??!! any ideas if this is a good idea or not??

thanks!

jp_cout

any ideas?

Abimax95

iTrader: (1)

Here is my 2 cents I have done the same thing buy this buy that ...and it wasn't what I thought it was so take it to the dealer it cost $80.00 (here in Framingham , MA )and they will tell you what it is ...

Good luck !!!!

jp_cout

I've been there twice and none of the time they were able to tell me...even with the ecu thing to read all the codes and the stats in the computer...??!!

killcrap

iTrader: (3)

just replace the damn coil packs already. and your friend probably ment open loop condition. and the computer WILL move the IACV to raise or lower the amount of air bypassing the TP, depending on TPS/MAF/MAP/ECTS/IAT. and your computer will pop a code if the o2 sensor is disconnected. probably heater circuit open.

jp_cout

I know that it will pop a code but don't you think that the hesitating problem won't show up because the sensor's won't tell the ECu to do so because they will be unplugged?? for sure it will throw a code but, I think that the engine will work "like" if it was cold --> open loop ...that's the only time he's working good...

jp_cout

can the 02 sensors be faulty and not throwing codes making the engine freaking sometimes?