Maxima performance questions
#41
ok i've had a ram air, a stock with k&n, a plain stock, and a cai, so i was just giving him my .02, furthermore i bought the obx b4 i came to the org (had no idea people thought they were crap nor do i give a sh*t) and thier really not that big of a waste imo, they cost me just as much as a y would and i got a better sound (again imo)
DAVEsz Do you have the OBX system? Have you ever tried the OBX headers? if not then shut the hell up cuz you again as stated above you have no proof
as for proof IE time slips and dynos i have none because my information is based apon how it feels to me, however i may have been wrong with the whole midpipe/ hacked box idea because i have never tried it, but from what i have read that seems to be people most favorable choice
sorry for hijacking your thread and turning it into an argument thread, continue to get the info you need and i will just keep my opinion out of it
peace
DAVEsz Do you have the OBX system? Have you ever tried the OBX headers? if not then shut the hell up cuz you again as stated above you have no proof
as for proof IE time slips and dynos i have none because my information is based apon how it feels to me, however i may have been wrong with the whole midpipe/ hacked box idea because i have never tried it, but from what i have read that seems to be people most favorable choice
sorry for hijacking your thread and turning it into an argument thread, continue to get the info you need and i will just keep my opinion out of it
peace
#42
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
I understand your point Doc. I don't have any dyno data because I never dyno'd before and after the intake, nor did I claim to. I do however have probably 80-100 timeslips from before and after intake as the only change. I'm not saying these timeslips will yeild any results either way either (though they may, but I haven't analyzed those runs in my timeslip spreadsheet in probably 2 years, and the monitor on that computer is fried so I haven't even started it up in a few months).
My point is that threads like this are EXACTLY how rumors, both true and false, get started. Someone hears something and then tells someone else so then it's a secondhand rumor, who tells it to someone else and it becomes a thirdhand rumor, etc. Before long what a single person posted, which may or may not have any foundation in reality, has become the "general consensus" of the board not because tons of people have tried and made a determination for themselves, but rather because one or a couple people tried something, and everyone else just latched onto the idea and took it as gospel.
I'm just playing devil's advocate here really, but it irks me when people say "wow dude you just wasted your money, you will be faster with the stock airbox" when they really don't have any clue whether or not that is the case.
These two particular runs don't prove anything with regards to this matter, but I can say for a fact my fastest run after installing my intake was faster than my fastest run before installing the intake, even though I was at a track which is about .1s and .75mph slower when I ran with the intake.
But like I said, please don't take these data as gospel. They are just two runs (albeit two runs out of a good many runs) that illustrate the exact opposite of what half the people in this thread are claiming as truth.
My personal opinion? I don't believe that intakes do a whole helluvalot, but I do believe they help a little bit. I suspect that if one compiled all the data ever recorded on the subject they would find a small gain with intakes as opposed to no intake. I'm talking about quantifiable data here by the way (dynos and timeslips mostly), not subjective things such as "weaker off the line" and "driveability".
My point is that threads like this are EXACTLY how rumors, both true and false, get started. Someone hears something and then tells someone else so then it's a secondhand rumor, who tells it to someone else and it becomes a thirdhand rumor, etc. Before long what a single person posted, which may or may not have any foundation in reality, has become the "general consensus" of the board not because tons of people have tried and made a determination for themselves, but rather because one or a couple people tried something, and everyone else just latched onto the idea and took it as gospel.
I'm just playing devil's advocate here really, but it irks me when people say "wow dude you just wasted your money, you will be faster with the stock airbox" when they really don't have any clue whether or not that is the case.
These two particular runs don't prove anything with regards to this matter, but I can say for a fact my fastest run after installing my intake was faster than my fastest run before installing the intake, even though I was at a track which is about .1s and .75mph slower when I ran with the intake.
But like I said, please don't take these data as gospel. They are just two runs (albeit two runs out of a good many runs) that illustrate the exact opposite of what half the people in this thread are claiming as truth.
My personal opinion? I don't believe that intakes do a whole helluvalot, but I do believe they help a little bit. I suspect that if one compiled all the data ever recorded on the subject they would find a small gain with intakes as opposed to no intake. I'm talking about quantifiable data here by the way (dynos and timeslips mostly), not subjective things such as "weaker off the line" and "driveability".
I hear you, Neal. I fully understand what you're getting at. There are so many variables that can be put into place that it definitely does make it difficult to claim an absolute either way. I'm with you on this.
#43
Sorry for letting you have it PTownMax I was in less than a good mood at the time. But that is my honest opinion about the situation, with all the rumors that have been perpetuated on this board because of situations like this though. No hard feelings I hope though.
#45
Originally Posted by McNasty360
Hey I just put in the tokico Blue drop kit and I like it, but my max now has a squeaking noise as I turn, it sounds like it's coming from the front right axle.
#46
Thanks, I also noticed that some oil is splashing on the right spring ( I look at them from time to time because I like the red and blue colors of the shocks) I noticed that some kind of boot or something is torn and leaking oil all over the place. Does anyone know what this is? I appreciate everyone's opinion on the intake question. I thought I noticed a lag on initial acceleration too, that's why I asked. But I also heard that with a y pipe you get max power with some kind of intake system. If this is true, then I probably will keep it on and try to get a y pipe.
#47
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Posts: 5,437
Originally Posted by MDeezy
Ok to correct my statement the stock intake is best for the low end, of the line. That is what I was reffereing too but did not type in. When you lose low end from you cai its usually shifted to the mid or more high end power. You basically make a sacarifce with a cai from one end of the power band to another.
If you don't race your car though, it's probably not worth getting.
#48
Originally Posted by McNasty360
Thanks, I also noticed that some oil is splashing on the right spring ( I look at them from time to time because I like the red and blue colors of the shocks) I noticed that some kind of boot or something is torn and leaking oil all over the place. Does anyone know what this is? I appreciate everyone's opinion on the intake question. I thought I noticed a lag on initial acceleration too, that's why I asked. But I also heard that with a y pipe you get max power with some kind of intake system. If this is true, then I probably will keep it on and try to get a y pipe.
One thing at a time. The torn boot that is leaking oil is the boot covering your CV axle. You will need to replace it.
The y-pipe with a stock intake is sufficient in most cases. The inclusion of a true, good quality, cold air intake with your y-pipe can give you an additional 3-5 peak HP (6-8HP if you have an entire free-flowing exhaust system) for a 4th Gen, but I would ask yourself first if the cost of it (over $200) is worth the modest increase in HP and torque.
IMHO, there are much cheaper ways of improving your car's perfomance than spending $200+ for a CAI such as adding a K&N filter replacement to your stock intake (good for an additional 2-3HP at a cost around $45), using synthetic oil and transmission fluids, using cooler spark plugs, adding a grounding kit, and others. Also, removing all excess weight from your car will help.
If you want more engine noise rather than pure performance...well, that is another story.
#50
My friend did a custom intake fit and I noticed last night that the filter wasn't fitting flush agains the MAF, so I covered it in layers of duct tape. Wow! I hear the intake operating a full 1000 rmp earlier. Before it started roaring at about 3000 rpm and now I can hear it at 2. I was driving down a long smooth street and another 4th gen with lights saw me and floored it, he had an intake too I could hear it. But I digress. Yeah I guess it feels about the same in the low rpms as before now, but there is a more linear feel to the engine when I floor it. More like a wave of power than the rush and tapering off I felt before.
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