when to replace pads?
#2
If you take them off, there is a slanted section on the ends of each pad that tells you when it's too worn. When that has worn away and your pad is completely flat, then you need to start looking into new pads. You will also feel a slight vibration through the brake pedal when you apply the brakes. The more you need the pads the more the vibration. Then the last step is of coarse the squeaking.
#4
Unless you can provide us with before (new) and and current (now) pics, we can't tell you how much life is left in your pad. We don't even know how many miles you have on your car, how many miles you put on your brakes, what type of driving you do, how fast you drive, conditions of the car, or how loaded (junk) the car is.
#5
Originally Posted by sky jumper
thanks. I do get some vibration, so looks like it's time.
any suggestions for good pads? OEM Nissan? Ceramic?
any suggestions for good pads? OEM Nissan? Ceramic?
Vibration is not always a sign of worn pads, its a sign of a scored or warped pad and/or rotor.
#6
I just put in four new rotors and pads from courtesyparts.com, they sell nissan parts at dealer prices. I personally stayed stock, but people go with other pads. I asked about them and I heard that the performance gained by pads is negligable if you don't upgrade rotors as well. If I were you I would just stick with Nissan if you are using Nissn rotors. No squealing and it won't dust like crazy. Just my two cents.
#9
Originally Posted by 86maxima96
i think that he was just looking for an answer about what the general guideline is for pads and replacement, not for him specifically.
#10
Yeah Nissan pads have a "meter" I guess in the corners of the pads that show when it's coming to the end of the life of the pads. All those other variables that you asked him about don't really apply. I figured he doesn't race or heavily mod or anything. The only way to know what's going on is to take them out and visually inspect them.
#12
Originally Posted by McNasty360
If you take them off, there is a slanted section on the ends of each pad that tells you when it's too worn. When that has worn away and your pad is completely flat, then you need to start looking into new pads. You will also feel a slight vibration through the brake pedal when you apply the brakes. The more you need the pads the more the vibration. Then the last step is of coarse the squeaking.
1. What has vibration got to do with worn pads? Explain to me how worn pads cause vibrations.
2. Some pads have no bevel at all - so that can't be a good indicator of when pads are near the end of their life.
3. Not all pads have wear indicators, which is what cause the squealing as the pad starts to get thin.
There are definitely some telltale signs, and squealing is one of them - but that is only going to happen if you have wear indicators on the pads. The only other way is to inspect the pads yourself, as Loe Max has stated.
Here is an example of a new, vs. worn brake pad:
#13
If you don't want to run the pads right down to the wear indicator, replace them when 10% to 20% remaining. I went with Raybestos pads (PGD 540) in the spring on the rear, when I had the right rear seized caliper. They show no brake dust or squeal whatsoever.
#14
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Originally Posted by McNasty360
Yeah Nissan pads have a "meter" I guess in the corners of the pads that show when it's coming to the end of the life of the pads. All those other variables that you asked him about don't really apply. I figured he doesn't race or heavily mod or anything. The only way to know what's going on is to take them out and visually inspect them.
#16
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Originally Posted by njmodi
This is not true.
1. What has vibration got to do with worn pads? Explain to me how worn pads cause vibrations.
2. Some pads have no bevel at all - so that can't be a good indicator of when pads are near the end of their life.
3. Not all pads have wear indicators, which is what cause the squealing as the pad starts to get thin.
There are definitely some telltale signs, and squealing is one of them - but that is only going to happen if you have wear indicators on the pads. The only other way is to inspect the pads yourself, as Loe Max has stated.
Here is an example of a new, vs. worn brake pad:
1. What has vibration got to do with worn pads? Explain to me how worn pads cause vibrations.
2. Some pads have no bevel at all - so that can't be a good indicator of when pads are near the end of their life.
3. Not all pads have wear indicators, which is what cause the squealing as the pad starts to get thin.
There are definitely some telltale signs, and squealing is one of them - but that is only going to happen if you have wear indicators on the pads. The only other way is to inspect the pads yourself, as Loe Max has stated.
Here is an example of a new, vs. worn brake pad:
thanks to everyone who responded - great & instant feedback from you guys!
#18
Originally Posted by McNasty360
If you change your rotors and pads at the same time they are going to smoke for a little while, just be aware of that.
#19
I replaced the pads and the rotors at the same time last week. I started driving them and pulled over when my car started smoking. I did it with my friend that works for audi and he told me that if you put on new pads and rotors at the same time as they work themselves into eac other they will smoke and you will smell them a little. It happens for the first couple of days and goes away. It happened to mine and I was just warning him.
#20
Originally Posted by McNasty360
I replaced the pads and the rotors at the same time last week. I started driving them and pulled over when my car started smoking. I did it with my friend that works for audi and he told me that if you put on new pads and rotors at the same time as they work themselves into eac other they will smoke and you will smell them a little. It happens for the first couple of days and goes away. It happened to mine and I was just warning him.
#22
I can only go off of my experience. If I ask a mechanic what is going on and he tells me what I am supposed to say. I was trying to look out for this person. I don't know what binding is. If that's what was going on and i knew about it then why wouldn't I tell him. How about you try to think logically instead of reacting. If you know about it more than me great, help the guy out. I never pretended to know everything there is to know about brakes. Jeez you guys act like you were born knowing everything about cars.
#23
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Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by njmodi
That's a load of crock. Your brakes are binding, that's why they were smoking. Have you ever tried to think logically about what you are typing and whether it even makes any sense.
#24
Originally Posted by McNasty360
I can only go off of my experience. If I ask a mechanic what is going on and he tells me what I am supposed to say. I was trying to look out for this person. I don't know what binding is. If that's what was going on and i knew about it then why wouldn't I tell him. How about you try to think logically instead of reacting. If you know about it more than be great, help the guy out I never pretended to know everything there is to know about brakes. Jeez you guys act like you were born knowing everything about cars.
McNasty - your brakes are not working properly if you are seeing smoke (or perhaps you didn't clean the oil off the rotors before you installed them???)...
Vibrations in the brake pedal indicate rotor runout (commonly called warped rotors). This can happen with worn or new pads and doesn't necessarily indicate pad wear.
Keep reading and learning, but just be careful dishing out advice if you aren't sure of it yourself. Don't trust anyone, and question everything.
#26
lol yeah I noticed that too. I got the brake cleaner for the oil, but maybe we didn't get all of it. They stopped smoking the next day and since then I haven't had any problems with the brakes, which lead me to believe that the mechanic was right. They are working well now. If I thought something was up I definately wouldn't have passed along the info.
#27
It REALLY helps if you are able to bed your brakes in after changing them. If you have an area where you can get some speed up then stop, that would be cool. Basicallya series of hard stops from say 40mph up to about 65mph until you can smell the brakes and possibly see some smoke as well. You'll also have a LOW brake pedal when you're done. Then park the car and WAIT until the brakes are completely cool. Also don't forget to leave the ebrake OFF when you do park it. It'll save both the pads and rotors and won't leave any deposits on the rotors that can cause "juddering/shuddering" when you use the brakes.
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Maxima30
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09-07-2015 06:13 PM