Help: Max wants to die when cold. hessitages during acceleration
Help: Max wants to die when cold. hessitages during acceleration
For the past 5 months my max has hesitated under acceleration but its getting worse. When your WOT sometimes its like half throttle to full throttle and back and forth.. Now i can even hear it backfire thru the intake or at least i think thats what the popping sounds are. (it only does that at highway speeds at WOT). If you drive around town like a grandma you may not notice the hessitation.. and it idles fine.
Then its also taken 4 or 5 tries to start it in the morning.
The past week, when you take it out on the road and slow down to a stop, the rpm's drop way low and it vibrates or totally dies out so i have to put it in neutral to avoid that. It only does this until it warms up then its just fine.
What would be causing some of this?
I've done allot of the maintainance recently.
New: spark plugs, oil/air/fuel filters, pcv valve. Cleaned: TB
No CEL light and No Codes either.
Some people have said maybe the Coil packs, Injectors or KS? What about the MAF or IACV?
Thanks
Then its also taken 4 or 5 tries to start it in the morning.
The past week, when you take it out on the road and slow down to a stop, the rpm's drop way low and it vibrates or totally dies out so i have to put it in neutral to avoid that. It only does this until it warms up then its just fine.
What would be causing some of this?
I've done allot of the maintainance recently.
New: spark plugs, oil/air/fuel filters, pcv valve. Cleaned: TB
No CEL light and No Codes either.
Some people have said maybe the Coil packs, Injectors or KS? What about the MAF or IACV?
Thanks
I have a very similar problem but it is related to idle/RPMs dropping while either coming to a stop or at a red light, and this only occurs when it has been on the road for 25-30 minutes. So basically I am in danger of stalling out after 30 minutes of driving if I approach a stop sign/light. My max also seems to run very rich and gas efficiency has significantly decreased as it seems to waste a ton of gas. I had my starter replaced a short time ago, and had one of my fuel injectors replaced as well.
My local mechanic is also perplexed and cannot figure out what the problem is. Tried cleaning out TB /butterfly plate and condition is the same. The only code the mechanic is pulling is the KS code, no check engine light. My MAF and coil packs seem good. He also sprayed trottle cleaner everywhere around engine to test for vacuum leaks, dont know when I changed fuel filer.
I also notice that my battery has stuff all over the terminal cables so I am thinking replace the battery and fuel filter?
Anybody have any suggestions? I feel like torching my car........thanks in advance
My local mechanic is also perplexed and cannot figure out what the problem is. Tried cleaning out TB /butterfly plate and condition is the same. The only code the mechanic is pulling is the KS code, no check engine light. My MAF and coil packs seem good. He also sprayed trottle cleaner everywhere around engine to test for vacuum leaks, dont know when I changed fuel filer.
I also notice that my battery has stuff all over the terminal cables so I am thinking replace the battery and fuel filter?
Anybody have any suggestions? I feel like torching my car........thanks in advance
Originally Posted by maxgtr2000
maf, pull codes to be sure, the ecu knows what's going on.
Originally Posted by overseaz
No CEL light and No Codes either.
Some people have said maybe the Coil packs, Injectors or KS? What about the MAF or IACV?
Thanks
Some people have said maybe the Coil packs, Injectors or KS? What about the MAF or IACV?
Thanks
If you guys have a multimeter (fluke) you can always check the resistances of the coils and fuel injectors? Chiltons book has some common values if needed. Just an idea ? And you should clean the terminals of the batteries if you see oxidation occurring.
Originally Posted by wannabemechanic
If you guys have a multimeter (fluke) you can always check the resistances of the coils and fuel injectors? Chiltons book has some common values if needed. Just an idea ? And you should clean the terminals of the batteries if you see oxidation occurring.
Yeah i have a multimeter, I tested them once but i can test them again maybe can you email me or pm me the values from the chilton manual? When i tested them last time they all seemed to test out ok tho.
Dave
Originally Posted by alleydawg6
Today my car started for a little while, and then as I get ready to put it in first, it sputters and slowly whines to a stop. I tried giving it gas, but the car just sputters to a stop.
This also happened to me as well, I found out that i had to completely change the battery. I would get a jump and start the car, but when I put it into reverse the car would die. Check your battery first before anything, could be as easy as that? If not sorry.
Originally Posted by overseaz
Yeah i have a multimeter, I tested them once but i can test them again maybe can you email me or pm me the values from the chilton manual? When i tested them last time they all seemed to test out ok tho.
Dave
Dave
I'll get the values chilton has in the book when I get home, Sorry I dont have it with me at this time. I know its saturday a great day to work on your car sorry....but my car wont start either and i got fed up with it...but i'll start working on it later today or tomorrow ok....
Intake backfires indicate either a valve timing or ignition timing issue. If you can borrow a timing light from someone i'd use it to make sure timing is in check. Have you been hearing noises from the timing chain area?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
viperboy
8th Generation Maxima (2016-)
4
Sep 27, 2015 07:05 PM




is this thread ..
