So, my 99 SE is in the shop. Car acts like it has a fuel pump out. It cranks but wont turn over. Car has fuel pressue, spark, all the things required to start, except it wont. The dealer is telling me that it is the ECM or ECU, the computer basically. Here is what they are telling me...

I found a TSB that covers what my car is doing to a T. My car has the THEFT light on when you try to turn the car over, but it wont turn over, meaning that it prolly thinks its being stolen, which is what the TSB said. Neither key works (it has the chip in it).

Well, the dealer said that they got no response from the computer when hooked up to thiers, but said that it was throwing some kind of MASS AIR FLOW code. Now, what I find funny is that HOW??? is the computer throwing a code when it IS NOT CONTACTABLE? They told me that the car has 'many' computers in it. I find this a load of crap. Now, what I am thinking is that I know my K&N air filter (box style) is FILTHY. I know this for a fact. I was gonna wash it on my vacation which starts tomorrow.

What I am curious is, could my car NOT start with these symptoms IF the air filter was so clogged that it caused a vaccumm problem? Does that sound right at all?? How can the ECU just die? Is the dealer taking me for a ride?

Please help with this because after towing costs and such, it is going to cost me around $1500, of which I dont really have (borrowing from parents.) It is EXTREMLY appreciated!!!

 

I'd start by pulling the codes myself and not just taking the work of the dealer. I don't know anything about the theft deterant system so maybe someone with a 99 can help you more.

 

Problem is that I cant because the car is STUCK at the dealer cause it wont start, so I dont know if I can pull any other codes. I mean, how does it pull codes if the computer cant be reached? Thats what I am questioning here, because that dont sound legit at all.

 

Sounds like the immoblizer and keys need to be reprogramed. Common with the 99's. Costs around $100 by the dealer.

Take it to a dealer who knows what there doing.

 

it's your car... they can't stop you from getting in with a screwdriver and pulling codes. Just tell them you would like to get in your car to get something. And am I the only one who notices that the dealer almost always says the computer needs replacing. It's like the most common bull**** dealer diagnosis that exists. Yep your computer needs replacing.... that'll be $1200... anyway ... yeah...

 

I would take Fisher's advise. There's been many times that the dealer would try to get the owner to pay some outragous fee for something so small. Ask them if they considered reprogramming the keys than if they give some b/s answer I would tow it to a reliable dealer somewhere else.

 

Ok, so if not the computer, can the air intake cause my car not to start?

 

^it's a possibility, check your MAF. But the reprogramming sound legit. I think that's where you problem lies...

 

I'm pretty sure it's your immobolizer, go get it reprogrammed and be happy as f**k when it starts.

 

So should I just go down there and tell them that I want them to reprogram it?? One of the guys there is a real ******** and has pissed me off before, arrogrant ***** style. The other, seems pretty cool. What should I do if they dont try it? Whom would I go to?

 

Dealerships are always like that, always trying to find a way to get money. If possible, I would go to a different Nissan dealer and tell them to reprogram the keys.

 

The thing is though, I leave for Vegas wednesday night and I need my car, so Im kinda screwed for getting it to another dealer to look at it, cause the nearest dealer is about 30 miles away and I dont have the cash to get it towed all the way there. The problem is the thing just wont start.

I guess what I am asking too is, can it be possible to throw a code, without the computer supposedly responding? I just dont get how that can be, cause dont we only have the one computer?

 

It strikes me that you can't afford to go to Vegas, so cancel the trip and get your ride working properly.

 

I can afford it just fine I just dont want a damn $1400 bill on my CC that I just paid off. Besides that, the cancellation fee would cost me as much as the trip would anyways so Im just gonna go anyways. I just dont want them jacking me when its not needed.

 

if it is the immobilizer the car would NOT turn at all...yo uwould turn the key and get nothing...is that what is happening? if it is cranking but wont turn over than i suggest what others have, pull the codes yourself...if the dealer said the computer is throwing a Mass airflow code than would that suggest the MAF sensor could need replacing? the symptoms described above sort of describe the general idea of a bad MAF....i hope you figure it out. good luck.

 

IM going to go to my friends dads and get his scanner and go down there later today and see. If it is a MAF sensor, that cant be too expensive can it? Also, I am going to call another dealer and ask them what they think as well and go from there. I guess on the bright side is that if the computer dont fix the problem, then I dont have to pay for it either.

 

Thats incorrect regarding the post thats says nothing will happen if the immoblizer is the problem.

When there is a problem with the immoblizer/keys, the car will turn over like it wants to start.

 

sounds like it could be the programming of the keys. Or it could be the key ring sensor which picks ups the code from your key. that's what happened with my 99. Connection wire was just loose.

if the car thinks its being stolen, the engine cranks but it won't turn.

 

MAF sensors are around $50 used and could be found in the classifieds.

 

OK....so here is the scoop......

I took the scanner to the car. Got code 0102. MAFS sensor. Left the dealer. Called over to another dealer and asked them what was up, if this would cause that and such, and they said something was fishy and to call the service manager back.

Called the service manager back, he said what was happening was that the code was FROZE in the computer basically. He said the computer was froze and thats why they couldnt clear it out and get it working, thus the broken computer. So it seems logical I guess, and I called the other dealer back and he confirmed that that probably is the case, and I prolly have a MAF to replace most likely when it gets fixed.

So, looks like Im screwed no matter what but at least once I showed that I knew a little more of what I was talking about that the dealer explained it a little more clearer.

So, do you guys think that it sounds legit now?

Also, I have comprehensive coverage on my car (State Farm), do you think I could get them to cover this and that I can just pay my deductable? Thanks!

 

Time to get a modded ECU What I don't understand is why dealers say there are a ton of computers on the car. I know of the main ECU, and I know there are a ton of sensors, but a ton of computers?

 

No it does NOT sound legit. And I wish people on here would use proper English. When you say it is 'cranking' that means the *same* as 'it is turning over'. What you mean is that the engine isn't *firing*.
Your starting problem is 99% likely to be the security code in the lock.
1. Ask the dealer to reprogram the security code.
2. Try starting it. I bet it will start.
3. Rev it up and see if it will exceed 2,500 rpm. If it revs OK then the MAF is functioning.
4. If it won't rev over 2500, carefully check the plug-socket connector to the MAF, the contacts can and do get dirty. Clean the contacts. If it still won't rev past 2500 you probably do have a dead MAF. Drive it home at low speed and get one from an org member or scrapyard.

A clogged air filter will cause your car to run like cr*p, but it will still run. My air filter was 8 years old when I bought the car and looked like bird's nest soup. The car still ran.

 

^ I concur. I forgot to plug in my MAF sensor once and when I would rev past 2500 rpms the needle would go up and than just drop to 0 and the car would die. A dead MAF sensor should have the same symptons. Cleaning the contacts will only require some sanding to get rid of the oxidation or corrosion. After this is done than it should have good continuity. Another thing is the actual MAF wire. IIRC you should buy Electrical Cleaner, which is a spray can designed for wires that have been corroded. A corroded or oxidized MAF can also cause a faulty code.

Or just go to the Junkyard.

 

immoblizer!!! Reprogram your key....

 

Come on man, you have a 99, you have the security light blinking. It doesn't fully start.

All of the symptoms pointing to a key that needs to be reprogrammed, yet you're running around the solution as if it's a skunk and doing so many extra things to solve something that seems so simple. Just get the key reprogrammed. Happened to my fathers 99, immobilizer turned on.