TKA's 98 Max

i'm really interested in quality and fitiment. i'm about to buy on ebay and wondered if anyone would please share which safe companies make tail lights. i noticed there a few different brands. I'm always open to taste preferances, but just wanna be aware of brands on ebay for tail lights i should shy away from. thanks

TKA's 98 Max

i bought new Yokohama AVID's cause my rubber was beat up. Have had them balances twice in 3 days. Still have the vibration at these speeds. I had the fron end checked and cant find anything. Doesnt happen when braking, just straight driving. Any ideas what I can have a garage check out? thanks for your help

YellowOne

Try having the front tires rotated to the back and see if it gets better.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

Most people here don't like the altezza type lights much.

As far as quality and fitment, no matter what you buy from wherever, any aftermarket light is not going to fit as perfectly as stock.

If I had a 98, I'd probably just do the outer tailight mod and remove the amber lenses.

Adri

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for responding. Tomorrow, I am going to see how she handles when I press the accellerator to the floor. I will let you know. I am going to have the shop owner ride along to verify my concerns.

As far as re-assembling the clutch kit correctly, I am confident the mechanic did a good job.

TKA's 98 Max

i'll try rotation. thanks for the suggestion

TKA's 98 Max

i'm gonna try the outer. i was concerned because i asked a few ebay sellers to provide the measurement of the height of the red vs the clear to see whether their product would line up with the ones i have (because i dont know if theyre stock despite the fact that i think their stock colour pattern) and no one has been willing to do it for me. been debating whether to spend the $ to buy all 4 pieces when the 2 inners may not need to be replaced. didnt think i was asking the sellers too much. thanks for the feedback, it's been slim.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

If you're just looking for a 2nd used set of outer tailights to try the mod on, you should check out the 4th gen forsale forum here. Always someone parting out their car.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

Here ya go,
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_acce.asp?...=Nissan_Maxima

They go over the exhisting pillar and are held on by a plastic rivet.
You have to drill a small inot the OEM pillar and use the plastic rivet to secure the aftermarket pillar onto it by going through the hole.
The fitment is pretty good, the full pillar looks much better then those partial gauge pods that you have to screw into the pillar.

ALSOUSA99MAXIMA

iTrader: (10)

Cheapest way would be try a junk yard.

billhen

my 1997 maxima feels like the parking brake is still on in drive, but not reverse. i was told that i need a tcm. could someone tell me what that is and where is it located ? also where is the automatic control unit located.
thanks
billhen

Blackwind

iTrader: (9)

its right below the ecu, take out the shift trim and youll see it, BE WARNED!!! Its not the easiest thing to remove.

sligsta

I recently had my Crank Position Sensor replaced at the dealer, they are now telling me my flywheel is damaged and needs to be replaced for the DTC to go away, How true is this and are there any other options. I think the DTC is P1336

JKetzer

Turns out two of the lug nuts had just worked themselves a little bit loose. I tightened them up and now it's fine.

That was more painless than I expected.

JKetzer

Unrelated problem: Near the end of an extended drive (10-11 hours) the car threw a SES light for a "front right heated O2 sensor".

Which sensor is that? I know there are two front sensors, but I don't know if "right" is the front cylinder bank or the rear bank.

Also, is there any real harm in driving it on the bad sensor? I figure I might lose a few MPG and I probably wouldn't pass emissions, but it's not a sign of something more sinister, is it?

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

I believe that would be the one on the Y pipe near the firewall side.

http://www.automedicsupply.com/catal...engine=V6-3.0L

It's not that hard to replace DIY. $64 for an OE type new one.
Don't get the universal type or you'll have to do wire splicing.

Nissan gets the stock sensors from Bosch, but no one's complained about the other brands.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

See- 100 posts and still near the top. I told you people it did not need to be a sticky to be usefull. Next time, don't doubt me!

olsona5

I just got my car about a month ago and I don't have the money or the nohow to mod the car very much. But I was wondering what some of you guys think about removing the emblems from the trunk.

I ask because from the info on this site it sounds easy, but not everyone has elected to do it to thier modded cars.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

My brother's done it to his Max.

I personally like the emblems on the back. It gives people the answer to that question as you cruise on by them.. "hey what was that!?"

Up to you really. It's not that hard. Just takes a little dental floss, bug/tar remover, and time.

foty632

i went to the dealership today to program my remote and the technician said that when my keys are in the ignition and i open the door the bell that alerts the driver doesn't ring therefore the car doesn't recognize that the key is still in the ignition, hence the remote can't be programmed. My question is what can the problem be since they didn't have time to verify it. Thank you in advance.

heynow

iTrader: (1)

It's very frustrating when such a great forum doesn't allow you to search (newb)!

I have a question, i just had my ATF changed (not flushed) 2 weeks ago (I'm 128K on the clock). The shifts actually got softer, but there's still an occasional hard shift between 3rd & 4th gears. The shifts are a little hard accross the board when the engine is cold, but once it warms up, it seems ALOT better. I just bought a bottle of lucas oil tranny fix, and i'm thinking about adding it to my existing ATF. I was wondering if could try that to see if it gets any better. I've seen mixed reactions about this question, and i want to know whether i can safely "try it out" or should i stay away from it alltogether until i see bigger problems? Please let me know if it's safe to try it out. (If it is, where do i pour it, and how much of it?)

fastman69001

before i didn't a few simple mods to my 96 maxima the check engine light was on. the code read MAFS, OS(cant remember which one) and Knock Sensor.
well after add a short ram intake and a chip the check engine light went away for a while but came back. which these mods i had to relocate the IAT sensor. when i checked the codes again they read Knock sensor, IAT sensor and gear 4 wrong ratio. are looking under the hood i found out that one of the wires from the chip to the IAT was not attached so i reattached it and the codes went away. but after a day or so the check engine light came back on and the same codes again. i checked to see if the wire can loose and it didn't. i was just wondering if it would be the knock sensor that is messed up or not. oh and i also would this cause my tranny to have hard shifts and sometimes not engage right away from a dead stop?? thanks for your time

pitotstatic

I have a -96 Maxima in which the left front door speaker has blown. I'd like to replace it but I am unsure about what size to use. I have been told by different sources that a 6.5 inch both will and will not work.

What size speaker should I use?

Thanks in advance.

Pitot

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

6.5 will work for sure.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

6.5 will work, the only thing to pay attention to is the mounting depth of the speaker.
Go to Crutchfield and look up your year maxima, it will give you a list of speakers and recommended depths to use.

Hondawhat?

the faq mods sticky says stay away but never says why please help

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

No real gains have been proven by using it.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

Bad knock sensor - ~$100 from eBay or the forsale forum here. www.motorvate.ca for replacement instructions
bad egr - big PITA to resolve - leave for last in my opinion
bad upstream oxygen sensor - change this first - $65 www.oxygensensors.com - get the OE type (no wire splicing)
bad maf sensor - try cleaning it first with maf cleaner from autozone
bad vapor purge valve - not sure what this is..
the auto trans is staying in first far too long - has the tranny fluid been flushed and refilled lately? if not, get it done.

disclaimer: JP is not responsible for anything you do to your car.

95jr6708

The terrible idle is probadbly comming from the bad MAF and possibly the KNock sensor...My recommendation would be replace these two things FIRST with the 02 sensor being the 3rd. I have a bad EGR (0302 high/low flow) and have not noticed any significant difference and am not worried. Vapor purge valve might want to talk to someone smarter, but to my recollection it is not a big deal either. This car will last a while with proper care and maintenance. How did you get a free one?? hook me up.

rstevenson

I am a newbie with a 1996 Maxima with 178k miles. The engine light was on, so I pulled the codes. Bad knock sensor, bad egr, bad upstream oxygen sensor, bad maf sensor, bad vapor purge valve and the auto trans is staying in first far too long. The thing idles terribly. The car was free, so I can't complain. Is there one of the items on the list which I should tackle first.

My new-to-me Maxima has Michelin tires. Not sure of the size. I'm sure they are the same as the originals, though. Kinda wide and flat. On the freeway, in the rain, this car hydroplanes like crazy. It's like being on ice. Almost killed myself driving up I-75. I live in the north. What's a good tire for this car?

Secondly, I can't seem to use the search function. I have no permissions?

asianbandit

Life sucks ..when your maxima don't work right

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

Look on the side of the tires for the size you're currently using. It should look something like 215/55/16. [tire width/tire sidewall height/wheel diameter]
Can't really make a recommendation without knowing the wheel size.

There are plenty of All-Season tire recommendations in the Tire forum here.

Only donating members can use the search function. Other members can use google to search the site. Check google.com for instructions.

Hexon

iTrader: (1)

Just shave off the rear burger and any dealer stickers. There will be a light shadow where the emblem was but it'll go away

MaximaMarine

I have to hijack this thread since I can't post yet. But I need help. I got an AVN5435 for my 99 Maxima. First of all Circuit City completely messed up everything. The illumination was not connected, the unit stuck out about an entire inch, and after 4 tries they could not find the VSS wire. Ultimately, they just said they would give me my money back for installation. So I went to a repuatable stereo shop here in Monterey, California and they really did a good job in fixing everything that Circuit City screwed up. Of course there is a "however." After driving around, it is apparent the VSS wire is connected as I am tracked and the speed sensor on the unit is functioning. However, I continue to get the annoying "CHECK SPEED PULSE" each time I go into navigation mode. It also comes on intermittently sometimes when the nav screen is on. Does this appear to be an installation problem, or a unit problem? Nonetheless, the stereo shop said they would take a look next week to see if we can fix this. I guess since I dropped so much cash on a unit, I want it perfect. Please any feedback for this noob would be great.

The_max87

I pulled the transmission out of my automatic 1996 GXE, when i went to start it it took like 10 minutes. it continuously does this everytime i start it, and it backfires, can someone tell me what might be wrong?

AussieA32

Hi, I have a problem with my auto. I just had my alternator replaced but my tranny is behaving like its in "safe" mode. I have park, reverse, neutral, and third gear but no others. Any ideas on what could be causing this. I did have an earthing problem and I kept blowing my main 120 amp fuse but its all fixed now. Have I blown my tranny computer?

UkiSash

alirght i have a question, i am about to aquire a 97 5spd gxe.... now i dont remmber what was under the hood since i was more interested in the luxurious interior (mint black leather, no rips tears or anything, PERFECT) But i think it was a 2.5l Now im pretty much the fastest of my friends with the supra, but she is about to go into storage for the winter, and the maxima is all ill have, i have a very competative personality and i dont like to loose. So getting to my question is what mods can i do to make my car a little more responsive. my competition isnt much but their pretty much all in the same hp range as the maxima... and like i said i dont like to loose... since you guys know more about this car than i do, whats are some good cheap bpu mods that i can do to my car, lets say were not spending more than 500$ I do the work my self. Exhaust, intake ? Also sources to get these mods would be great.



scratch that... i went another route, i got a 99 now 5spd 73k, w/ injen intake and some kind of an exhaust, and slipping clutch!
So clutch will be first on my mod list. Im thinking centerforce.

ihatemymax

I have changed the coil and the spark plug, and now the fuel injector. Please help I don't know what else the 0607 code of cylinder #2 misfire could be.
My maxima is a 95 w/ 193,000 miles on it. IT is an SE.


UPDATE:

I have checked the compression in that cylinder and it is fine.

Delirious

Hello everyone! It seems I have an electrical problem with the blower fan.
On my '97 Max (no climate control) the blower fan runs at high speed in all four speed positions including the off position while the car is running. It will not turn off or change speeds even with the plug to the motor resistor removed! The only way to shut it off (beside turning the ignition off) is to remove two 15Amp fuses. I have ruled out a motor resistor by tring a new one, could it be a blower motor relay? or is it the control unit with the ****? how to find out.
Any suggestions?

D-3vil

Hi,

I've just purchased a '96 Maxima SE (stick, fully loaded) about 2 months ago. The car has 250,000km on it, but was extremely well maintained and is in excellent condition, save this one problem below.

Engine will stall about 2 out of 5 times after being started when cold (engine is cold, not outside temp). The behaviour before dying is what's baffling me.

Here's the scenario of events:
The car will start fine on the first crank. A few minutes into it, the engine will just die. This has happens regardless of whether I start driving the car or I just let it idle.
I can prevent the engine from shutting down by pumping the gas, but it almost feels like there isn't enough fuel getting to the engine. If the engine does indeed die, upon attempting a restart, engine will crank many times before starting, sometimes after several attempts.
Once it starts, though, all behaviour is back to normal.

So far, I was thinking one of the following things may be wrong with it. Some of these may sound idiotic (since my auto mechanics background is shaky at best):
(1) fuel pump ... but why would it act up only after a cold start
(2) idle sensor ... don't really know anything about it
(3) (possibly idiotic) somehow a void of air is being introduced on the fuel line and engine dies when void reaches spark plugs ... don't know what may cause this.

Before going to the mechanic with this, can anyone shed some light into this "mystery"? The car is bone stock, with no mods.

Thanks for any help you can provide.