rzua5

Yes I do, smoke comes out of the steering wheel where the airbag cover is.

sam_918

I would some additional power sources, I need to know where is the best 12v power source to start with? I'm just running an XM receiver and cell charger right now, but who knows whats in the future (laptop, nav, radar detec) so I'm guessing somewhere in the underhood fuse box for that kind of reliable power. Since this is going to be the deepest I've ever gone into auto electrical stuff so any more tips or info would be awesome. Thanks

olsona5

I just got my maxima less than a month ago and the tires are getting a little low on tread, so I was wondering what all-season tires would give me the most bang for my buck. Snow WILL be a issue (Minnesota has the white stuff for 5+ months), and price needs to be reasonable because I can barely pay for my books.

JKetzer

Today my '97 5-spd Max started to make a noise best characterized as a pulsing, rubbing/grinding noise. It comes and goes -- it seems to happen most when the steering wheel is turned to the left, but it sometimes makes that noise going straight, too. The frequency of the noise changes with speed -- the slower the car is moving, the slower the noise is, if that makes sense.

It isn't very loud and it's difficult to pinpoint a source, but it seems like it's coming out of the left front.

Tires are great, and it steers, accelerates, and brakes normally. I don't think a brake is dragging. The suspension is in good condition.

My limited auto experience suggests that it's the CV joint. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Mxrider52

iTrader: (8)

Check the inner and outer cv joints to see if they are busted open. Check the wheel bearings. Jack the car up and wiggle the wheel.

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

i have smoke that somes out of my a$$ once in a while but not the steering wheel is that bad




j/k what does the smoke smell like ? electrical burning ? oil burning ? (no you cant say my a$$

donbryan1970

I purchased a 1998 Maxima GXE which already had lowering springs and larger wheels on it. It has Kumho 711 235/45R17 tires on it. The springs the previous owner put on it are very cheap and they didn't replace the stock struts so it has blown out the struts. I want to replace the springs and struts but I'm not sure what size lowering springs to get. I have about 2 inches clerance in front and about 3 inches in the rear. Could someone suggest how much lowering I need for the wheels I have and some good springs and struts. Or should I go with coilovers. Any suggestions would be very appreciated.

Thanks Don

ManualMaxFan

iTrader: (1)

There are tons and tons of threads on this subject, but the consensus seems to be to go with H&R or Eibach springs and KYB AGX or Tokico Illumina shocks for the basic setup. That will drop it just enough so you don't look like a 4X4, but not so much that you're riding the bump stops all the time. The seemingly most popular combo is Illumina/H&R, but I have AGX/Eibachs and I'm not complaining. Check the GB/GD (group buy/group discount) area to see if anyone is running specials on those combos. If you want to slam your car (lower it more than 2"), then the best way, I think, is with coilovers, but those are $$$.

donbryan1970

Thanks ManualMaxFan I appreciate the info.

Another question:

I have a 98 GXE and when I purchased it the previous owner had taken the automatic transmission out and put a 5-speed in it. They didn't attached the clutch pedal correctly so the pedal braket was loose. I reattached it so it wasn't loose but when I tried to shift from 1st to second it grinds if I get above 2000 rpms. I've tried to adjust the clutch pedal and it still won't fix it. I'm not sure why it only does it from 1st to 2nd. I don't won't to sound like I'm new to working on cars I'm just new to doin the tuner car thing. Please someone help me. It's drivin me up the wall.

I have tried bleeding the clutch. It only makes the noise between 1st and 2nd if your over 2000 rpms

Why would it start this grinding all of a sudden? I just tightened up my bracket the clutch pedal was attached to. It was fine before then.

Thanks

Don

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

So it makes no noise shifting into 3-4?(or any other gears)

Blackwind

iTrader: (9)

yes they will, brand and price are up to you, ive used cooper cobras in the past, good price, i have kumo ectas right now, also good price.

Blackwind

iTrader: (9)

im betting synchros

Chefasaurus

iTrader: (4)

Is there a way to wire the turn signal lights to flash once when the car is unlocked from using the remote?


And why is it that my windows will roll down if I press and hold the unlock button, but there's no way to roll them back up with the remote?


A horn signal would be nice too, for when it's locked, using the remote.



I know my way around a car and some electricals, but I guess I just need to know if there's a way to add this to the car's stock security system.

--Evan

olsona5

I don't know if any of you have had problems with your speakers giving you annoying feedback, but it could be your cell phone.

It seemed for a while that my speakers would just act up randomly until one day on a long road trip it got very annoying, my cousin said the same thing happened in his car. He said when he had it sitting directly under the stereo he would get feedback.

Since I have never heard of this problem I thought I would put it out there, hopefully nobody else is as dumb as me.

Adri

iTrader: (1)

Hi! I have a 97 Maxima and recently replaced the clutch kit with a 5th Gen kit. What a difference from my old clutch. I am very happy with the new clutch. I have a few concerns regarding the shifter.

Here are my concerns:

• I hear a noise coming from the shifter, like metal scraping or grinding, a whirling noise or something like that. The shifter also shakes... Is it suppose to do that?

• When I am in 5th gear and need to suddenly slow down, I go into neutral, brake and when it's safe for me to get back in gear, (at this time, the traffic miraculously picks up within seconds from the time I put the car into neutral, the rpm are REFLECTING low between 2-3, my baby won't let me shift into 4 or 3 from neutral and RPMs appear too low to go back into 5th). I re-enage the clutch and sometimes it lets me shift in 4 or 3 but, the revs FEEL too high, it catches but hesitates to move forward where if someone is not paying attn, I can be easily rear ended. This just started to happen two weeks ago.

Maybe I am doing something wrong when I have to suddenly slow down because there are cars ahead of me suddenly slowing down in a domino effect. This only happens when I am in 5th gear.

I hope you understood my concern. Any and all input is highly appreciated.

Thank you!!!!

Mischief

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

1. No
2. Can't roll them up
3. Check the HowTo's sticky on how to add a "beeper" so it beeps or honks or w/e you install when you press lock.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Loosen it and see if it goes away

Nyczhutpao

Hi. I posted this on the i30 section but havent gotten any responses. Sorry for reposting, but i really need some help. the car is staring to feel really bad and i would like some opinions before i bring it into a shop. This was my post:
I got a 96 i30 with 140,000 miles recently. When I first got the car, it drove perfectly fine and smooth. After a while, the car started to idle and accelerate kind of rough. The car would not accelerate as well with a slight vibration in the pedal and I would have to push the rpm's higher to make the car go as fast as it did in the beginning. The transmission would also shift harder. After 3000 miles, i got an oil change, changed the air filter and the car was smooth as silk. After a few hundred miles, the same thing started happening. I got an oil change 2000 miles later, and the car was fine again. A few hundred miles later which is now, the car is rough againwith vibratinos in the pedal. The car gets noticeably worse if i push the car past 3,000 rpms, especially to 4,000 rpms. I've been checking the site for a while and havent really found anything about this. The guy that changes my oil tells me every time i see him that i need an engine flush. I tried searching on that topic but keep getting an error. I drive bout 80-90 miles a day with about 70 being city miles so i dont know if that's a factor. Any thoughts or tips would be great. Thanks

Kazoo

iTrader: (3)

Well got the old cluster and pulled the tach out. The tach and the needle was the same color as my old one. Put it in my cluster and hooked everyhting up. Now everything works perfectly. So the next thing I need to tackle is the sun roof. One of the tracks is broken. So thanks for the help with the tach.

John

donbryan1970

I have a 98 Maxima GXE. When I bout it the previous owner had replaced the auto trans with a 5-speed. The braket that holds the clutch pedal wasn't installed properly so it was very loose. About 6 months after I bought it the braket broke. I re-welded the break and reinstalled the clutch pedal and bracket. Now when I shift from 1st to 2nd it grinds if I get above 2000 rpm's. It did not do this until I reinstalled the bracket. The pedal isn't loose anymore and I have bled the clutch to make sure no air is in the line but it still keeps doing it. I have made adjustments at the pedal for the clutch master cylinder and it still will not fix it. Any suggestions would be very helpful.

Thanks

873000

I need a wiring diagram for a 1998 december bose HU .

Any one help me out since i cannot find it in the fsm.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

The audio & electronics section has wiring diagrams in the stickies.

Caracicatriz

iTrader: (3)

Never heard of an engine flush. Give the car a tune up and see if it helps. Clean out the throttle body and change all fluids.

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

all the hub kit is..is a set of wheels spacers with studs in them with a differernt botl pattern that u can take on and off in about 5 min.... so keep your stocks for winter of full size spare

QuiksilverMusic

sweet. thanks

tj00xj91

It sucks not having access to the search function, being a maxima.org forum newbie, but im sure its best for the forum. My question as follows: I have a friend with a 95 maxima, automatic tranny. The car will not turn over every time she tries to crank it. Sounds to me like the neutral safety switch. I have not had the opportunity to look at it yet, before i look at the car i want to be armed with as much information as i possible. I know the check engine light is on, as it was always on before, with a o2 sensor code showing, im sure it is possible to have more than that one code on it now, but like i said i havent looked at the car yet, just from the symptom of intermitten turning over problem i believe it to be the neutral safety switch. I dont know much about maximas except they have a sweet 3.0 in the gen 4s. Looking for information from the valuable informative people of this forum.

thanks and have a great day!

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

Sounds like you may have an electrical short circuit somewhere in the steering column or under the driver side dash.

Maybe a loose wire is hitting something it shouldn't while you're driving due to road bumps/vibration.

I'd take it to a good shop to have it checked out asap. Don't want to have a fire in your car.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

There could be a quite a few possibilties here, but the most common one to check first I'd say is the starter motor. If it's original, then most likely the grease inside it has dried up. It's usually a problem when the car's been sitting for several hours and is still cold. see www.motorvate.ca for more info.

O2 sensor failure is pretty common with 4th gens. Easy enough to change and shouldn't be the cause of the starting issue.

Come back if you pull any more codes from the ECU.
Note: An O2 sensor failure will usually trigger a knock sensor code too. Just change the O2 sensor first, reset the ECU, and see if the KS code comes back.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

Hmm..interesting that it runs smooth for a little while after each oil change.

Do you know when was the last major tune-up?

I believe an engine flush is when they put some sort of oil detergent in the engine, let it run for 10-15min, then flush it all out, and fill with new oil. They sell the stuff at autoparts stores.

If it were me, I would do a complete tuneup, check all the ignition coils, replace sparkplugs (NGK only!), clean MAF sensor, clean the throttle body, and get all the fluids flushed and replaced. (coolant, tranny, steering, brake, engine oil)

Most of that work you could do yourself to save some money. See the 4th Gen How To sticky.

That should get rid of some of the possible causes and get you started on a clean slate.

Good luck.

QuiksilverMusic

Is it just me or does anyone else think that the stock horn on the 4th gen maximas is pretty pathetic? I looked around and found a few replacements on a few sites, has anyone had any experience with replacing theirs? any advice on a good one?

873000

still cant find any thing , All of them are not for my hu .

Its a bose Model : PN-2261D December 1998

some one please help!

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

Here's a few links:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=replace+horn

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=replace+horn

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=replace+horn

QuiksilverMusic

Awesome. Thanks JP

donbryan1970

No noise in 3-4 or any other gears

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Are you looking to retrofit it into your 87? There are wiring diagrams and pin-out descriptions in the FAQs at the top of the audio section...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=60393

Adri

iTrader: (1)

Can anyone assist me with my shifter concerns?

Thank you.

Kazoo

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys,
where can I find a good 2 or 3 gauge pillar pod? Also do they replace the A pillar or do they go over it glued on with double sided tape? I want to put in a oil pressure gauge because I like to see the oil pressure on my cars. I am not sure what other gauges to get yet but I will get something else. Thanks,

John

Blackwind

iTrader: (9)

nissan dealerships do the engine flush, it is well worth the money. i do it twice a year. i say spring for it, its about 130.00

GoalieKeg

iTrader: (4)

It's probably more than just the hydraulic system now. It could be your 2nd gear syncro is going/has gone out the door. You should have your transmission inspected by a reputable transmission shop...But before you do that, I'd suggest getting a transmission flush done, and throw some lucas in there to see if it stops the problem. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

It is supposed to shake a little bit. If you feel it is excessive, check the condition of your transmission mounts.

Regarding the second part, it almost sounds like a slipping clutch. Are you sure that everything was re-assembled correctly? What about if you are in gear and just press the accellerator all the way to the floor- does the car accellerate smoothly, or do the RPM jump without a proper vehicle accelleration?