nicki

i have a 96 maxima & compared to any car i've driven or been in the heat output seems to be extremely weak. is this normal for this car or could something be wrong? the temp gauage seems fine & i assume everything else is good. but it seems if i have things cranked up high even after the car has been running i can put my hand over the vent & it is only slighty warm. it is a 40-45 minute drive home from work & it is only when i get close to home that i can turn the dial down a notch because the car is finally warm enough. also if i have the air blow out through the dash vents it feels more on the cool side when it hits my face so i keep it directed to the windshield.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

you should have your AC system checked. mine was like that for a while and I finally had the system checked this summer by a good mech. turns out one of the lines was clogged and was preventing it from working optimally.

now it gets hot or cold in 5min or less..

nicki

would the a/c not work right if this were the case? i used it a few times over the summer & it seemed fine. but i will still get it all looked at it. thanks.

GMANAZ

I guess there is no way to just disconnect the security system in these cars like just pull a fuse or something.

wlaukaitis

My question is: How come I have over 20 posts and I still can't search?

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

This is why,..
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378748

wlaukaitis

i get it now

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

That wouldn't be very secure then.

Boondockboost

iTrader: (2)

Boiught a 97 maxima about a month ago ive slowly been doing alot of maintance on it.l I read somewhere to use GL-4 fluid only any suggestions on which brand?

maximomar

iTrader: (3)

ok so about 2 weeks ago, i started experiencing rough idle and lurching when i accelerate. i got the misfire signal(flashing cel light) but when i checked the codes i got 0505 but i figured what the heck my car has a lil over 105k might as well get the sparks changed; also changed fuel/air filter and cheked the fuel injectors(thet're ok). my car ran as smooth as ever...for about 2 days.....same sputtering and lurching started just yesterday and now i got the code 0701 ......so my question is what could be wrong now? ive been reading threads and could it be a bad CAS? coils?(i have a 99)

id really like to know what i should try first before committing to replacing anything, christmas is just around the corner and money is getting a little tight, so any help will be greatly appreciated! thanks!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Right now I think your major options for a true GL-4 is Redline MT-90 and Amsoil MTG in 75w-90 viscosity. I've used both; I feel they are both excellent fluids and it doesn't matter which one you choose.

There are other options out there, but they are chemically less ideal for one reason or another. If you opt for something different at least make sure it's a GL-5 and GL-4 with a statement about being 'yellow metals friendly' or non corrosive to brass synchros. It might not shift as smoothly as the GL-4 only oil, but it won't be chemically damaging.

Dave

maxima_tuned

iTrader: (3)

Okay the right rear end of my car is really causing me problems. Ever Since I returned from Florida, the car has been making loud creeking noise on the rear right side. I don't know what to do anymore and I don't want to dish out money on something that might not be wrong with it.

Pepboys told me that my springs are shot and that the struts mounts is the reason why my car is making so much noise there. Should I just run with that and get it changed or should I get a second opinion.

SOMEONE HELP ME WITH THIS ONE!!!

maxima_tuned

iTrader: (3)

What are my headlight bulb options

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

There is no such thing as a 'shot' spring. They rarely, if ever, compress and lose height, as if the average forum goer here would mind a lower stock spring.

Sometimes the rubber tubing that is wrapped around the end turns of the coil rubs through, which allows metal-metal contact and lots of creaking sounds. Not a big deal, in fact you can use plastic wire wrap to replace it for a few dollars. But no reason to pitch the spring.

The strut mounts also wear out, but that would not require replacing the springs.

Dave

alimax

Where can I get the third brake light on spoiler other than the dealer. Mine doesnt work anymore.

shissqbob

iTrader: (14)

head over to www.spoilerlights.com or www.electrodyne.cc if that's what i think you're looking for.

maxima_tuned

iTrader: (3)

So rubber tubing is what i should buy? Where exactly will it go or fit?

tanks1

Hi,
I'm in Philly, Pothole City, and my car is starting to feel every bump. Can my 1997 110,000 miles, have that "new car" feel again?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

new struts. choice is wide, but my pick are the Tokico HP's. If money is no issue, then the Tokico Illumina adjustables. Also check tire pressure.

tanks1

Thanks for the info. Looking on ebay, they have Struts, with shocks and springs as a package. Do I need all or just the struts?

Thanks

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

Just the struts unless you are looking to stiffen/lower your ride any.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

for the stock feeling. Tokico Blue's and the spring to match will be closest to restoring the factory ride.

tsh52

hey, i have a '96 5-speed with 185,000 miles on it. i'll be driving down the road and all of a sudden it will go dead. when i try to crank it back up, i have to rev it up to keep it cranked or else it will go dead. i've noticed that everytime it does this it is spewing gas out of the exhaust pipe. anyway if i wait about 10-15 minutes it will crank up fine and i'll be on my way until the next time it does it. it doesn't spew gas unless the engine is dying like i said above...after the 10-15 minutes, when it acts fine again, it doesn't spew gas anymore. i appreciate any thoughts y'all might have....thanks

tsh52

i just read the self-diagnosing thread and so i went and pulled the codes off of it...
1. 1008 - EVAP canister purge volume control valve
2. 0102 - mass air flow sensor
3. 0304 - knock sensor
4. 0104 - speed sensor

I have no idea what number 1 is, so i guess that may be the problem. i don't understand why number 2 is registering, because i had a new MAFS installed less than two months ago. i don't think number 3 is a big deal because each time i go to the mechanic it doesn't seem to bother him. my speedometer sometimes shorts out so that explains number 4...can anyone enlighten me as to what exactly a EVAP canister purge volume control valve is? thanks!

tsh52

thanks for the reply...
about the MAFS...i really don't think it is the problem because, like i said, it's brand new...also, a bad MAFS wouldn't cause gas to spew out of the exhaust when it's messing up would it? from my experience it just causes a rough idle and can make it cut off (i've already had a hell of a time finding out the MAFS was my problem before i replaced it).
from what i've read about the EVAP valve it seems like it would cause the problem i have if it were stuck in the on or off position...the gas that's coming out of the exhaust is definately not clean...and i read that the EVAP valve has something to do with taking out the hydrocarbons or something and then letting them out (i still really don't know what exactly it does). anyway i'm taking it to the mechanic tomorrow to see what the deal is...thanks for the help

JUNKDEALER

Hello everybody! I chose this screen name as this is what my boss calls me.

I am having some problems with my '95. I also have some questions.
After the car warms up to normal operating temperature (needle is half way on the guage), The engine developes a multiple missfire or miss. I can tell that it is more than one cylinder doing the missfiring. However, the miss is only really noticable at idle, with the car in drive. You can also feel it missfire occasionally while traveling down the highway.
In PARK, it is not noticeable at all?

I did take all of my coilpacks out and tried to take them to Autozone to have them checked LOL. They didn't know what to do. So this leads to my second question: Where do I take the coilpacks to have them checked to see if there is a defective one?

NOW I have checked the codes and I do have a bad knock sensor. How will this affect the symptoms described above?

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

you can test the coil packs your self with a multi meter. Autozone would not know what to do with them. try unplugging a coilpack at a time to try and find the deffective one.

DanGK

Long story short:

Clutch was slipping - 4 mechanics told me it was bad clutch.

It would only start slipping after 20-30 minutes of driving.

So I put a new 5th gen clutch on ( I drove the car with slipping cltuch so the old disk was ****ed anyways)

2 weeks it drives great then start doing same stuff again. Slipping after 30 min of driving. And say by 20 min of driving the clutch starts engaging higher and higher. And pedal feels stiff and stuff.

So I took it to a mechanic. He claimed probably the slave cylinder. I ordered it, installed it. Bled the system.

5 days its fine and then starts doing same thing again. Right after I bleed the system the clutch feels very light and great, and d\engages when I move the pedal quater up from the floor. So I bled the system last night. And it felt great. Took the car to work today (30 min drive)

And it started to slip again. *** When the car is cold it drives awesome. the clutch feels good and engages low. And then it gets higher and higher and pedal feel gets worse and worse. Like all the way at the bottom it feels very bad and at the top too (almost like its scraping against something)

So, new clutch, new slave cylinder. Same stuff.

Maybe Im not bleeding correctly. I always end up at MIN fluid line in the clutch reservoir.

Thats how I do it: Fill up reservoir. Then get someone to press the pedal, and open the lower valve until clear fluid flows out of tube. Then i move to the top one and do same thing. But i always end up with amout of fluid right at MIN line. Could it be that since there isnt much fluid the air gets sucked in?

After I bleed the lower valve can I open the reservoir and add more fluid or no?

Any ideas would be great. I was thinking the pedal adjustment is wrong but when the car is cold it grabs right at the perfect point. So I would assume its good. Or should I play around with that?

Im going to bleed the system once more tonight.

Cheers

spoink

iTrader: (2)

What's with the 15 post rule! Im a mature adult here, ive been on this forum for a while and dont always need to post, i use the search.

Here is my newbie question:

I have a 96 SE with auto climate controls. Are the buttons supposed to light up, or is it just the display that lights up?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

spoink

iTrader: (2)

WOOT! post number 2!

spoink

iTrader: (2)

This is my 3rd post!

spoink

iTrader: (2)

well, i was gonna make 15 posts, but then realized that would make an *** out of me. Sorry, i just would like to be able to post in the "normal" sections.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

You may be an adult, but your sure not acting like one.
1st, if you would take time out to read, you would know why you cannot post.

http://forums.maxima.org/

2nd, keep up with the post whoring to get 15 and your going to get yourself banned.

Paz1986

what would be a good muffler to go with the budget y and b w/resonator pipes. Flowmaster? Magnaflow? I dont want it to be buzzy.

Spink

It only seems to do it after the car has sat for awhile and it's cold out. After it does that once or twice it will start fine and it always runs great. I just got the car with 115K on it and haven't done anything to it yet. I picked up a fuel filter and some fuel system cleaner but need to know what else I may need to do to correct this.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

There is a rediculously long thread all about exhaust...do some reading in there.

maxima_tuned

iTrader: (3)

I tried to check further into my car but pepboys is a real ripoff. But even though i'm hearing the creeking sound continuously while i'm driving, it stops while me foot is on the brake. Any ideas.

maxima_tuned

iTrader: (3)

Anyone ever heard of Zenn Springs??? I've been seeing them on ebay for quite a while now and was thinking about buying since they have such a nice drop.
The only problem is the price seems too good to be true, Does anyone have them???
Has anyone ever heard of them???

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-N...QQcmdZViewItem

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Cheap? Too good to be true? On Ebay? No, I don't believe you.

I guarantee you that even if they do function, they won't function well.

Dave

Paz1986

well Cdg2125, this is the "newbie i have a question" thread so i can post questions like that if i want. i thought that it was a legit question and would like people to give assistance on here instead of just crying. the members here have expert knowledge and experience about whats good and what works and thats all i wanted.