frisballs17

what about non perfomance mods?

also i want to find a cheap set of stock fog lights, and maybe a spoiler. i would want one the same color as the car. i am just worried about drilling holes in my trunk. unfortunantly maxima's are very uncommon in junk yards around here.

KINNEY0201

Hi,
My dad's 96 Maxima started sputtering and stalling over the past few days. OBD-II pulled a P0100 code--MAF malfunction. I took a look at it, the wiring looks fine, but there seems to be a worn rubber gasket where the MAF unit connects to the airbox (not the air filter box--other side where clamp is). Wish I could explain it better. I was wondering if there is indeed a rubber gasket there, and if so, could its wear be the problem. The MAF is rather expensive, but we can't seem to locate any info about whether or not that is actually a gasket there and where to find the replacement. Any info, pictures, etc would be helpful. Thanks!

Peter66

iTrader: (1)

Ok, the CEL went on a few days ago, and I checked today and I got the common 0304 code, and I also got the 0111 code for some "EVAP control system/Flow" thing, anyways I am confused as to what to do, will replacing the knock sensor fix both problems? and if so how bad is it to drive like it is right now - will I just get worse milage and performance? Thanks.

maxedoutboi06

Does anyone have these lights on their maxima? if so may I see some pics? I wanna see what they'll look like on a maxima, Im thinkin about gettin them



and Im not much of a turbo person, I saw this on ebay, and Im kinda confused about it, like where I need to put it, couple ideas came 2 mind, but I decided 2 go ahead and ask here

rahulkatti

i have had my 95 maxima se for about 2 months and i can get my front windows down but i cant figure out how to get them back up......i have tried every button on the remote but i end up making the alarm sound.....can someone please tell me how to get the windows up.....thanks in advance.....

addictjokah

Quick question - I'm looking to replace my stock speakers on my '99 Maxima...looking for a decent/bang-4-the-buck speaker/sub (w/ amp and box) combination... what's a couple of good combos to get?

riceyasian86

Lighting question:
What type of light bulb do I need to replace the lights for the odometers?
The lights ceased to work and I can't see how fast I'm going or what the rpm is during night.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Pretty much anything you get on sale that's a brand name will way surpass the quality of a dried-out stock system.

Just remember, if you have Bose, you'll need to replace it all or buy a special adapter if you want to keep the speakers and use an aftermarket headunit.

Dave

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Get in the car, turn on the ignition, use the window control.

The remote is only for opening the windows to start venting hot air as you walk toward the car, or to crack them open on a hot day.

Dave

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

The 0304 code appears with many other codes. In the manual it says you should only troubleshoot 0304 if it's appearing completely alone. I suggest you pay a good shop to troubleshoot 0111 if you're not comfortable following the steps in the factory service manual; get that all taken care of. Then if the 0304 appears again, alone, do the knock sensor.

Dave

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

The correct replacement bulbs for the gauge cluster of the 97-99 models must be purchased from a dealer. They should be a few dollars each.

You can also get #74 bulbs to fit in there, but they are a little smaller than the stock bulbs and not as bright.

bmathai

Hi!

I hope someone can give me some advice on what to do next. I have a 1999 Maxima, 83,000 miles, have had it for a little over one year with no problems but for the past one month it has given me a lot of trouble...At first I changed the plugs because my mechanic suggested that at 83,000 miles it was about time for a tune up. That is when everything seemed to go wrong...the same day I changed the plugs my car became 'lazy' - I had to really step on the gas for it to pick up speed even on level ground or it would really jerk while going up a hill and when I was stopped it would sort of 'shake' badly(rough idle??) so i took it back to the mechanic and he changed the plugs to a different brand but that did not help the matter at all. As if that was not enough, the SES light came on and that resulted in me having to change the MAF sensor (which I had do twice because the first one failed two days after I replaced it). Then after taking care of that and clearing the codes, the SES light came back on again producing the code for "Random Cylinder Misfire" so for the third time my mechanic replaced the plugs with another 'better' brand. That was a week and a half ago...for a couple of days it rode fine but recently i have noticed the 'lazy' acceleration and the 'shaking' while I am stopped are back...also while all this problems have been going on my car has been consuming a lot more gas that usual.

I don't want to wait till the SES light comes on again but I don't want to go back to that same mechanic. I also can't afford to take it to the Nissan Dealership...any ideas on what might be really wrong with my car...I live in Atlanta, GA any suggestions on a good mechanic too would also really help.

Thank you.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

Find out what spark plugs are in the car now.

Most people here only recommend the OEM plugs. NGK Platinum. ~$10 each.
Anything else tends to cause problems in our cars.

Also, I would suggest replacing all the Ignition Coils. It sounds like one or more of them may be bad. This is very common in 1999 models. They run about $80-90 each at the dealer. Or there are usually people in the 4th Gen forsale forum selling used sets for much less.

PS: You can change the spark plugs and ignition coils yourself. It's not very difficult.

jattdemax

iTrader: (10)

Hey guys,

I have a quick question...I have a 98 GXE, and i keep on hearing a raddling sound coming from my rear passenger side wheel well. Its not a constent problem, but its getting wrose. It only makes the raddling noise at low speeds, going off little bumps. Anyone can help me out?

riceyasian86

Lighting question:

I got an answer that I can replace my instrument cluster bulb with a #74 type bulb.
But I noticed that it MIGHT be the fuse.
I checked the fuse and they seemed to be working. The only problem is that the instrument cluster backlight is out but the needles (orange) work perfectly fine.
Can anyone tell me if this is due to the fuse being worn out or the light bulbs.


Also, to double-check that I checked the right fuse.
Which fuse is it for the instrument cluster backlight?
Is it the "Interior Illumni"? [#18 on the backpanel]

Thanks in advance! I really need to get this fixed and without much cost because the nissan dealership near here is too pricey.

brasso

i want to pay with a money order but im a little worried about it, has anyone ever paid with a money order.
and did the kit fix the belt shredding issue.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

I pay everything with money orders just because I dont have paypal or a credit card. As long as the seller will take a money order you'll be fine.

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

You could use PayPal to pay matty. I had funds transferred from my bank account to PayPal.

nicki

i have a 96 gxe. i want to replace all the lights on the front with something better looking & brighter. i am also adding fog lights after i get a new bumper. i was thinking of getting the crystal headlights, diamond cut corner lights & bumper lights from this site. before i spend the money on it i was wondering if anyone has this brand of headlights & if they were good & brighter. also can someone point me in the right direction for a good fog light kit. thanks


http://www.customenterprise.com/view.../vts/design017

Hondawhat?

This may have already been asked but are there any brake upgrades between years or models?

I have heard 300zx calipers and rotors will swap but is it only certian years.

I used to have a civic hatchback that I had 11in rotors and type-r calipers on it with type-r master cylinder and proprtioning valve so the big a** Maxima doest stop like that car did.

Thanks for the help and Im glad to be in the nissan camp

lo bloccs

hi i have a 95 5spd and when ever i drive the car a little hard it it just cut off
when i stop and some time it loose power then it come back and it give off a funny smell all the time but have no leakes please help

Ender

Hey guys. Currently I'm looking for a 1999 Maxima SE and I seem to have found one, but I'm a bit curious about the price. The car's almost completely stock and looks as follows:

1999 Maxima SE
160,516 KM on it (exactly 99739 miles)
Standard 5spd
Interior and exterior in good condition except a scratch on the side
Power everything
Black leather interior
A/C
Stock cd player (not Bose)
Tinted windows

It has no mods on it (yet ) and the guy's selling it for $8100 (Canadian). With tax and all appliccable costs it should come out to roughly 9 grand at this price ($8100 Canadian is about $7160 American). I've checked "The Red Book" and it has the 1999 Nissan Maxima SE listed at $11500 for private sales. I've also checked edmunds.com and kbb.com, both of which list it as around $6000 to $7000 American (6.7K to 7.9K Canadian), hence me scratching my head.

Any advice or comments on this deal? I've never had the pleasure of owning one of these beasts before, and I'm eager and willing to get started.

Thanks

brasso

I wokr at Nissan dealer in Canada and thats a good price we sold a 99 SE for 11,000 canadian but i think the km were lower

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Get the manual tranny checked out. If you are going to check it out yourself, run a search (google works) for diff carrier play. A small sample of gear oil is also a very wise inspection.

Dave

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Well if you want to dish out the money get crystal heads and corners or get the new style lights on ebay. $200+shipping

If you get the crystal heads, there are a lot of options. You can make projectors, 9007 upgrade, or run regular 9004s. It depends on how much work you can do or what you want to pay. Start searching that stuff.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Well the 6th gen rotors and calipers swap into the 4th gen. You need to redrill one of the caliper bolt holes to make it a little bigger but no extra hardware is needed. You can do Cobra rotors and 300zx calipers but you need new lines and hardware rom Jeff92SE. You can also use J30 calipers and another set of Infiniti calipers (blanking on which ones tho). They offer more pistons and more stopping power. You'll need upgraded hardware for all the systems except the 6th gen stuff. They reguire much more work. You need to have at least 17" rims for most set ups as well. Depends how much work you want to do.

brandnew

iTrader: (5)

I'm gettin a weird scratching noise when sometimes when i start my car or when i'm idling and i turn on or off the radio or when i press the brake or just simply turn on/off something electrical????? u know what it is???? also does anybody know where i can find cheap oem replacement parts (brakes)

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

What kind of scrathing noise? You cant be so general. Do you mean in the background of audio? Could be a bad ground. Aftermarket audio or stock?

Brack parts can be found at any autoparts store....again specific. What do you need? Pads, rotors, calipers, hardware kit, lines??

midnight0045

iTrader: (12)

maxima enthusiasts!

i'm looking into upgrading my brakes i have purchased ebc brake pads already and now want a nice set of reliable rotors. can someone tell me the advantages of drilled, slotted, or drilled/slotted rotors and if those types of rotors wear away pads quicker than conventional whole rotors and do you get better responsive braking in the city with drilled, slotted, drilled/slotted, or plain rotors, whew all in all i am looking for responsive city braking what is my best option?

Ender

Now, if I'm going to go with the Maxima I listed in the above posts, I've got to figure out ahead of time the PST that I'll be charged. Unfortunately the guy selling the car isn't including it, so I'll have to pay that ontop of the $8100. Two questions:

In Canada, we only have to pay PST on private sales, when we go to register the car. How much is that PST charge percent-wise? 6, 7, or 8%?
(I'm in Ontario)

If someone could tell me how exactly the PST is calculated, that would be awesome. I know it has to do with the retail/wholesale value, but for this one I want to make sure my info is correct. With a 99 Maxima SE in good condition, selling for $8100 with most if not all extras, what will my PST be? And if you could explain how you came to that price, I'd greatly appreciate it!

He's given me the VIN and I've checked Carfax.com. Looks like the entire car's clean of problems.

And lastly, the bloke selling it says that there's "no tax" which I know is ridiculous. Should I be suspicious at all? I have half a mind to ask him if by "no tax" he means the tax is included in the $8100.

Thanks

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Good brakes are really about calipers too. You need a good set up calipers. There are alot of upgrades to brakes as I listed three posts before yours....shows that newbs dont really read anything. But look at that and go to the brakes and suspension forum. They're have more information and threads. Do some research on it.

midnight0045

iTrader: (12)

aside from upgrading my calipers which brake rotors do you think will go well with stock calipers, whole rotors or a rotor an alteration like a slot or a drill

Ender

Actually, if someone could just tell me which price in "the red book" I should be using to calculate the PST on this used car, that'd work too. There are three prices listed: Trade-in, Private, and Retail.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Just better pads. Flush the brake fluid too with ATE SuperBlue. If the pedal is still too spongy, put in a new master cylinder.

Rotors, calipers, etc mean nothing unless you've also upgraded your tires for more absolute grip, or you're running on a track and repeated braking pushes the caliper temps up over 500F. Your stock brakes will exceed the grip of your tires in every possible situation unless you get those brakes really, really, really hot.

In case anyone doubts my assertion that you can't heat fade these brakes doing ordinary street driving, then buy some of that thermal marking tape that changes color when it gets to a particular temp. Then tell me what it takes to get the calipers that hot. Aside from loading the car over its weight limit and doing a 120mph-0 stop down a massively steep mountain road, there isn't much you'll come up with.

Which leads me back to my point: new rotors and calipers won't make much difference. But the big brakes do look a little different.

Dave

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Make part of the sale agreement that he pays for any/all transfer and registration taxes. He can be present when you visit your DMV. That should solve that little slice of stupidity

Dave

rockfordmaxII

iTrader: (3)

I know that they arent the best out there, but how do you guys think the ride will be? Cuz im not lookin to take corners at 60, but i just need struts and i figured why not lower it at the same time. So this looked like a decent deal cuz it comes w/ springs, im just thinking maybe i am better off spending a little more for some other brand. I dont kno, tell me wut you think, Thanks.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOKIC...44944843QQrdZ1

Ender

Damn fine idea, Dave. Thanks.

Now, I'd still love it if someone could point out which number it is in the red book I'm supposed to be using to calculate the Provincial Sales Tax for this used car.

brandnew

iTrader: (5)

well the scratching noise is at start up and also when i'm idling.... it will happen when i turn anything that has to do with electrics on.... whether it be audio, lighting, brakes, or even windshield wipers... it will start and sometimes stop when i turn something on... it kinda has a rhythm to it...

also i need to fix my brakes i think brake pads and rotors.. i'm getting a scratching noise as i'm riding along the lines of warped rotors... its a very loud scratching noise


thoughts

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

If your brakes are scratching while you drive, and it does away some while you brake, your next stop needs to be a brake shop. The brake pads are worn to the point where they are rubbing on a noisemaker, and if you've been driving this way it means you're very close to having no pad material at all.

Your rotors will likely need replaced too due to the scratching.

Dave

Ender

Also make sure you don't ride it out for too long. If you keep using the brakes even after you hear the noise, it could end up costing you alot more than just the price of replacing the brakepads because that little noisemaker could be damaged etc...