adriena

iTrader: (6)

is dual exaust on maximas really worth it or is it mostly for look and not that much horsepower?

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

strickly looks. no performance gain.

rahulkatti

i have three questions about my 95 automatic maxima se:

1) where can i find "only clear corners on sale" i tried searching on ebay, my headlamps are xenon and are good and i only want clear corners.

2) will 96-98 maxima tail lamps fit a 95, i am looking at some really cool 97-98 altezzas which actually look good, the one's offered for the 95 look hideous....

3) when i stop at a light, i have habit of shifting from drive into nuetral, the idle rpms go at around 1500 to 1800....are they ok or do they seem a little high....

thanks

kaneda_77

iTrader: (5)

Keep searching ebay for your corners... other than that I dunno. As for the idle thing, it's not terrible to have it there, but I would adjust the idle. It's really easy and will only take you a minute. What is the RPM when you are in "D" at a light? You can have your idle around 500 rpm and its runs fine.

imported_silver_max

o2 sensor trouble. I'm looking at replacing the 2 front o2s(the first ones in each manifold) the car is a '99 cali. i've read that the 2nd o2s should not be bad. question is, the o2s are $30 diff in price, but are the 2 sensors the same? they are both the 3 wire plugs. only diff is the more $$$ one is shorter.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

the o2s for the front of the car are both the same, only difference is one is a longer cable the other is shorts.

mikeh

Ive got some kind of brake issue.... the abs light comes on.. and brakes are real squishy.. it only does this sometimes... almost seems like only when raining.... any suggestions?

succamadeek

95-96 =are interchangeable
97-99 =are interchangeable

otehr than that it doesnt work

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

Squishy brakes would suggest you could use a bleeding of you brake system.

ABS light indicates a problem with your abs system. Check the make sure the sensor is intact, and plugged in. My abs ligh came on but it was due to a bad alignment and my wheel rubbed against the wire rubbed thru it. A new Abs sensor (depending on which wheel needs it) should turn off the abs light.

o1jetta18t

I have had a '93 and '01 maxima over the years and actually posted on this site back in the day. I'm considering purchasing a 4th gen probably '98 or '99. What are some common problems that i could face? any engine reliabilty concerns? does the 4th gen still use a timing chain? does this ever require replacing? common check engine light problems? faulty sensors? gasket failures? any input would ne most appreciated.

mikeh

so what you are saying is that on each wheel there is an abs sensor and i should check those? right deezy

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

yes there is one per wheel up front. its about half a finger length. Half an in wide.

follow the abs cable (not the brake cable,the other one) and you'll find the abs sensor itself. Its held in with a 10mm bolt. and if your braking system has seen a lot of heat, the sensor maybe kinda melted onto the spindle.

its possible that maybe the abs sensor has a lot of caked up brake pad, or greese, some kind of deposit on it. If so try some carb cleaner on it and that might cure the problem. You'll have to partially remove your axle to see the reverse side if you cant get the abs sensor out.

mikeh

awesome... many thanks... hope this works everyone needs brakes if ya know what I mean!
mikeh

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

good luck

Freemax4me

Just got my 97 max and I have an overdrive button, when i press it it shows a light that says O/D off and when i click it again it takes the light off. What does it do and when is it on When the light that says Od OFF is on or off

bcambell23

"1) where can i find "only clear corners on sale" i tried searching on ebay, my headlamps are xenon and are good and i only want clear corners."


What type of clear corners are you looking for? Ebay is usually the best. Although I didn't see any there for a 4th gen right now, keep checking back. Another option is to check out the ebay stores of headlight venders as some will have clears for sale (but just not listed on ebay). Or google their name and find their store outside of ebay to find parts not listed on ebay.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

ebay has them, you do have to be carefull of your wording. "Maxima Clear" might work.

custommaxima.com also has them for sale but the price will be higher than ebay.
Overdrive is basically your cruising least gas consuming gear.

When you turn off Over drive (the OD light on)you disable 4th gear and your car will stay in 3rd.

when Over drive is turned on (the OD light is off) 4th gear is enabled and at the appropriate point, your car will shift into 4th, a gear you'll want when on the highway/ long distance trips.

in short that button just disables or enables 4th gear

kaneda_77

iTrader: (5)

How can I tell which keyless remote to buy off of ebay? Where do I check to see if the FCC ID or other numbers will work with my car? If someone has good info on this, it might be good to add to the sticky.
Anyone taken apart the remotes? I only have one and don't wanna brake it. It's not coming apart very easily. Thanks in advance for the help.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

as long as the fob is for 95-99 maximas or I30s the fob will work. Not sure about matching the FCC ID number but get one from the proper year(s) and you'll be fine.

mikeh

dude... my cv shaft boot was busted that ABS sensor was covered in greese ... pressure washed it all of replaced shaft ... all is well

shissqbob

iTrader: (14)

hey once again. do you guys know if it's possible for me to put a maxima front bumper cover on my infiniti i30? would i just need to buy those skinny corner lights and maybe cut a few places? Please help me out here

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

when the light is on overdrive is off. you will get slightly worse gas mileage but YOUR TRANNY WILL THANK YOU (and your engine to!) if you take it out of overdrive whenever you are driving under 40mph, remember, never go below 40mph without the light being on and keep up on changing your tranny fluid, and don't be stupid, you can keep the light on until 45-50 if your accelerating and plan on slowing down afterwards, but don't cruise at 50 or hop on the highway with overdrive off, you will regret it.......

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

nope, the hood, headlights, and fenders are all different and you can't use just one

rahulkatti

i have decided to keep the original corners but i am thinking to convert them into white so to go with my headlights on my 95 maxima,

i had stumbled upon a website which had information about all the types of bulbs that are on the car but i cant seem to find it again.

can someone tell me the website or just tell me what kind of bulb goes in the corners?

thanks in advance....

shissqbob

iTrader: (14)

does anyone know if any 98 and up front bumper covers would work for my 97 i30? im sorry about continually asking but the 97 fronts are extremely rare besides getting one for 209 bucks on infiniti parts...

jlander82

Hi, I'm brand new to this forum, and appreciate having this option here since I can't start a thread... I've read through many of the threads here and can't find exactly what's going on with my car.

I have a 95 w/ OBD1 that started shaking at lower RPMs (feels just like it's running on 5 cylinders), and would behave fine above 2000 or so. Specifically, I could notice it was worst at 1500 rpm while in overdrive. The check engine light came on and after pulling the code, and I found out that it was a 0304 knock sensor. I replaced the knock sensor and cleaned the ground contacts (old one did have a crack in it), and the car appeared to be fine. I drove the car about 50 miles during which time it behaved pretty well and seemed to have ample power.

When I got where I was going,I turned the car off for 10 minutes or so, and when I went to start it again, it died (it would not idle... again, feels like only running on 5 cylinders). This could be overcome by giving it gas when starting. Now I have to stay on the gas in neutral at stoplights so the engine won't die. Also, when it dies and the key is still in the "on" position, you can hear a clicking in the engine bay... I traced this down and it's the IAC valve or solenoid or whatever it is. I did the tests and it's getting power on the female end and the resistances are what they are supposed to be between the terminals on the male end.

So now I have pulled off all the coilpacks and tested for their resistance and cylinder number 5 seemed to be off. I also checked all the plugs, which seemed to be ok (they are fairly new). Since cylinder 5 seemed a little off in its ohm reading, I left it disconnected and ran the car that way. It runs exactly as crappy as it did before, so I am assuming that cylinder 5 is still not getting combustion. I got a new coilpack and put it in cylinder 5, but it still didn't fix anything!!!!! I listened to the front fuel injectors with a screwdriver and compared it to cylinder 5's fuel injector, and they all sound the same (all are clicking proportionally to the rpms). I have also replaced the PCV valve.

Any suggestions would be very helpful! I'm at my wits end after having searched through the chilton's manual and most of the threads of this forum!!!! Thank you all.

- Justin

jlander82

Also... I just checked for the infamous intake gasket problem, and I don't beleive it to be that either... I don't hear sucking, or see visual evidence of it once I hit it with WD40.

After having run it for awhile at high idle (1000 rpm), I looked down and noticed a big puddle of gas in front of the driver's rear tire, but couldn't tell what the source was. I turned off the car, and the previously mentioned IAC valve continued its clicking (it had been continuously clicking while the engine was running at 1000 rpm as well). Why is this happening even with no key in the ignition!?!?!?!

Please help?

jlander82

I'd like to make a new thread for all this but it won't let me... hopefully someone will see it in here?

bigpulve+

iTrader: (11)

1156 IIRC

Freemax4me

will 92 3000gt vr4. rims fit my 97 max

kaneda_77

iTrader: (5)

I'm not entirely sure about this, but when did the last fuel filter get put in? Possibly a fuel pump issue as well. My friend had some similar problems on his car, it ended up being his fuel pump. That's about all I got.

Xzecution'R

iTrader: (1)

i'd start a new thread but i can't so... i was trying to reinstall my deck last night and had it working the 1st time. i forgot to put a trim piece on and had to take it back off and now it doesn't work. my rear power windows and locks don't work now too so... i need help a.s.a.p

B3nnyboy

Hi i just bought a 98 SE 5 spd about a month ago. Never drove stick before so ive just been learning how to drive it. Now that i actually can get around with it, ive noticed that my 1st gear has an extremely loud and whiney sound to it. Also when i let go of the gas it starts to shake pretty badly. It all goes away once i hit 2nd so ive been pretty much been dealing with it by shifting out of 1st as fast as possible. Ive looked around the threads and i see alot of people pointing at the maf for related problems. However i read that one of the more common symptoms of a dirty maf sensor is a rough idle. Mine is actually really smooth so im not sure what else it could be. Any answers would be great

HM_Motorsports

iTrader: (1)

Check your fuses, and make sure the wires on the back of the deck arent bare ANYWHERE. You may have shorted something out, causing the fuse to blow. The fuse box is located to the left of the column on the underside of the dash, the cover pops off, they should be marked on the back of the cover or in your owners manual. I can't remember if the radio and the windows are on the same fuse, but maybe. If that all fails, it's time to chase wires,,,

Don't let go of the gas in 1st without pushing the clutch in, it's probably just the engine trying to slow the car down. Engine braking in essence. The noise just depends on how loud it is and what it actually sounds like, if it's relatively not loud at all, then it's probably normal, if it is quite loud, it could be bad bearings in the tranny, but that's really not something you can tell from a description online ussually.

idriveamaxima

iTrader: (1)

Ok, i have a major problem on my hands. I lowered the front and now my gears dont engage. I havent lowered the rear yet cuz i was pulling out to turn it around to lower the rear. I rolled out in nuetral from the garage thinking nothing of this. When i tried to engage 1st nothing happened. I can shift without the cluth. First i thought my clutch went out, but its somewhat new and it wouldnt happen just like this randomly. I have no clue what it is. I think its that the car is too low from stock so the drive axles dont reach the tranny. Its lowered 2" in the front and stock in the back for now, until i get this prob resolved. When i lowered my jetta i have had no problems whats so ever. Any ideas guys?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

I've written about that before:

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=39

If it's a noise that sounds like reverse gear, then the tranny has a problem.

Letting off the gas and shaking while still in gear is normal. It's caused by the clutch springs and torsional flexibility in the drivetrain. It's pretty hard on the drivetrain. To avoid it you need to let off the gas very gently. When accelerating thru first, I use first just up to 3-4k, let off the gas gradually, push in the clutch, and then going to 2nd. In parking lots I use 2nd gear as low as 1k rpm.

Dave

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

It's possible I guess that you don't have the axles pushed in all the way, but that doesn't match your symptoms. I once had my driver side axle not fully locked in, and it drove fine until I drove over the apron of my driveway while turned hard left and it spilled oil. But never any driveability problems.

I think you made an error in the disassembly and reassembly. Lowering can greatly reduce the life of the axles and struts (if you're still using stock struts - which is pretty silly if you're installing other springs), but I can't understand how that would cause the car to fail to shift or drive.

frisballs17

hey guys i was wondering what are the cheapest mods to do that dont require much money, i dont mind doing some work myself but i dont want much of an all day project

thanks

idriveamaxima

iTrader: (1)

intake is the only inexpensive i can think of right now

Mxrider52

iTrader: (8)

Instake be your best bet. Your gonna lose low end power. Buy one from ebay. They all do the same as the more expensive name brand ones. All you will need to do is replace the filter with a K&N