dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

I was talking about the wire clip, not the fork. That pn is the clip.

Dave

phillydj

wow i didnt realize that they just sold the clip, Thanks a bunch !!!

One more question
If I order the fork does it come with the clip?

qrajydod

This is a quick question, with probably a million answers.

I have a 98 maxima with 110k miles on it and the 5-speed transmission is in what I have been told is.. the process of going. It sounds as if both the input bearing, and at least one output bearing is going, as well as the synchros. I am planning to get this worked on in the next week and I am wondering if there are any recommended upgrades /changes that people would suggest that I do while everything is pulled apart.

I am considering replacing my clutch with the 00-01 OEM kit as has been talked about on here quite a bit.

Any suggestions?

addictjokah

I have a little problem with my car.
I have a '99 Maxima, @ 98k miles and the gas pedal feels a bit heavy. I've had this car since last December and it's always felt that way and I never thought there was anything wrong with it. But about a couple months ago, I decided to clean the inside of my car, etc, etc. and after I finished cleaning up, drove the car and the gas pedal was a lot lighter or looser and when i step on it, it would rev up or drive a lot faster then before. Basically, if I just pushed down half way or 3/4th way and hold it, I'll get a boost/kick from it and feel it.

A couple weeks back, I was driving my car and that boost/kick I get was gone and the pedal felt like how it did when i first got the car, a bit heavy or stiff in a way.

Any suggestions or opinions what happened here?
Thanks

*edit*
Not sure if it matters but I already did my oil change, spark plugs, etc.

Paz1986

What size is the map light for our car, (not the dome light)I've gone to pep boys and aid auto and they dont know. so i choose to ask intelligent people like you guys on here.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

The 5th gen clutch upgrade is a good idea.

There isn't much to be done inside of the tranny, especially if it's only problem right now is noise and bearing wear. I would just get it rebuilt, esp. since it lasted 110k.

The only real tranny upgrade is to get an LSD version and install that instead. (get it rebuilt first though or you'll be in this position again soon enough).

Dave

r7g7h7

Hey, I'm so glad I noticed this thread. I have been trying to get my 15 posts up without making totally useless comments.

I really want to know about rear wheel bearing replacement. Is wheel bearing noise common? Iv'e only done total 88k klms. Only 20k on 215 x 17 tires.

Can you get bearings without the hubs?

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

in the rear for our cars its not too common, or atleast I haven heard many many people having to replace it. Up front maybe.

for the rear you'll have to replace the hubs, it cant be pressed out and new ones pressed in (if memory serves).

rprice99

Hi All,

Newbie here...

I have an issue where I lost my 1998 Nissan Maxima car keys last week. I have gone to two dealers and had them cut me keys based on the VIN/Key Code neither of which will work. They are completely stumped. I am the original owner and have even had keys re-cut based on the Vin / Key Code 4 years ago so why it will not work now who knows.

Question #1:
The dealer mentioned that sometimes in the glove box their is a sticker with the key code on it (in case the one on Nissan record is somehow inaccurate)...I had the car slim jimmed open by a locksmith and of course...no key code in the glove box. What I did find however on both door jams was a grey sticker on it that had my VIN and then a 4 digit code above it...does anyone know if this could be the key code?

Question #2:
Assuming that is not the key code, I have also read that you can have a locksmith make keys from a mold of the lock cylinder. I have read that the trunk cylinder is the easiest to remove. Does anyone know how I would remove this and what toold I might need?

I really appreciate any help you can provide in advance...this is turning into such an ordeal...

nicotino16

i have a question about when my car starts, basically it revs up to about 1400k rpm, then it slows to 3 or 400 rpm and almost dies, then comes up to 11 or 1200k rpm and holds steady, any ideas? its throwing a knock sensor and a slow response from upstream o2 sensor code.

addictjokah

Quick question about tires. I have a '99 Maxima and I don't think I have the stock tires (I have Michelin tires) and I wanted to make sure my tire pressures were correct. I know the recommended PSI by Maxima is 29 PSI. (Now, again I'm not sure if I have the stock tires so..) I looked at my tires and it said the max PSI is 41. Someone told me usually it's best to fill the tires up about 3PSI less then the maximum (so I guess in this case it would be 38). Is that right and what should the tire pressures be on my tires?

Thanks

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

I run my tires at 38 or a little under. You should be fine as long as you stay under 40.

addictjokah

Sounds good. What happens when you have too much or too little? I've read that if you have too much, then it affects the center and that wears the tire out quicker or ?

This might be a stupid question but I was wondering...what brand is the stock Nissan tires and also...do I follow the recommendation Nissan gives for the PSI or do I follow the take 3-5PSI away from the maximum PSI written on the tires rule?

Thanks again

nicotino16

anybody hae a suggestion?

Marl1979

iTrader: (1)

Hi

I have 99 Maxima ES and my car has been doing something weird for the past couple of days. In the morning when I try to start the car, I can hear the starter spinning but nothing happens (it just goes "swwwiiiizzzzzz"). Then after a couple of time it starts grinding ("swiiiizzzgringgring") and finally starts. I don't have this problem in the afternoon (I think it's because it's warmer then).

The starter seems fine, it looks like it's a problem where the starter connects to the engine....

Any ideas?
Thanks
/Ed

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

The pressure in the tires is based on the weight supported by the wheel. Since changing tires does not change the weight, use the factory recommended pressure as your baseline. Get your pressure numbers from the door jamb sticker (which, you'll also notice has the vehicle weight rating on it too), and measure it cold. The pressure number printed on your tires indicates the maximum pressure, which is exactly that - a safe maximum. Michelin has no idea what your vehicle weighs or how many wheels it has, so the tire does not, cannot, recommend an actual working pressure. The only time I would stray from the factory pressure is running on a race track with race tires, which are a whole different beast.

Now you don't have to run the exact recommended pressure, but don't go below it. Too little pressure is both dangerous and damaging. But I strongly recommend stay between the exact Nissan spec to just a few psi extra. Go with a few extra psi if you put a bunch of people or cargo in it. Some people run a little extra if they drive mostly on smooth highways, but I've never seen any useful evidence that it makes a measurable difference in fuel economy.

Wear patterns used to be very indicative of the pressure (high pressure = center wear, low pressure = shoulder wear) but that is no longer a consistent trend with today's low profile belted radials. Heavy center wear has been seen on tires driven at high speed and low pressure because of the centrifugal forces on the tire. So my point is that you can't look at tire wear to know if your pressure is right. Go by numbers.

Any higher pressure and you risk distorting the tire and creating uneven wear, not to mention the crappy ride and reduced traction. 38psi cold IMO is too much for street use.

Dave

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Ed it sounds like the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid is the piece that pushes the starter gear into mesh with the flywheel gear. So if you hear the starter but no cranking, it suggests the solenoid hasn't gotten the starter gear meshed with the flywheel. You can replace the solenoid or the whole starter, which might be a good idea since starters don't usually last the life of the car and tend to fail at the worst possible time and place.

There is a common problem with the opposite issue - the starter gear doesn't retract from the flywheel after the engine starts, which results in an extra starter noise and grinding sound for a couple seconds. The solution to this is to take out the starter and clean and relube the starter gear shaft and rotating parts in there. Your issue might be resolved the same way, since both problems come from the starter gear not moving.

Dave

Marl1979

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a lot for your help. I think I'll just change the whole thing. Is this something that requires heavy or specilized equipment or is this something the average guys with moderate knowledge can do himself?

Thanks again!
/Ed

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

It's a good DIY. The bolts holding it to the tranny can be a little bearish, but with a deep socket and 3" extension I can get a breaker bar on both bolts. I think the bolts are like 14mm and 18mm.

Just start by removing the air intake snorkel and airbox assembly, and the starter is right there.

Dave

Marl1979

iTrader: (1)

Once again, thank you very much for your help.

/Ed

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

Too much air will wear out the crown of your tire as you noted.

The stock Nissan tires have been Toyo Proxes in my case. An old 2-page Maxima ad I have also shows that brand name.
If you look underneath your center arm rest cover you will see the tire pressure sticker with the recommended psi for OEM or equivalent tires.

mountain people

Newbie question. When I turn on my a/c fan, i hear this clicking noise from the blower. Sounded like some leaves, twigs, etc is stuck in there. I've removed the glove compartment and I can't tell which one is the blower unit or how to open it up. Any help? Pics would help. Can send it to my email at panjang@gmail.com
Thanks.

addictjokah

Anyone?
Thanks

Paz1986

What size is the map light for our car, (not the dome light)I've gone to pep boys and aid auto and they dont know. so i choose to ask intelligent people like you guys on here.

Jagger2001

I would try WD40 on the pedal itself and on the throttle cable where it connects on the throttle body.

Jagger2001

Do you still have the bulb in your car? There should be two in there that are the same size.

Jagger2001

I don't know myself but you should try and pick up a Haynes or a Chiltons manual from Autozone or Advanced/Parts America.

Jagger2001

I'm not an expert, nor do I play one on TV, but could possibly be a MAF(mass air flow) sensor. Not sure about the knock sensor code, I doubt that would be causing that kind of trouble. But if the O2 sensor is bad its worth replacing anyway, although that doesnt' sound like thats the problem.

Jagger2001

by the way, like I said I'm not really an expert at most of this stuff, I'm just giving my 2 cents plus trying to get my 15 posts so I can start new threads But it does seem like not many of the regular posters pay much attention to this thread, hardly anyones questions are being answered. Kinda sucky.

Eyceman666

Any ideas ?
I recently got KYB AGXs, S TECH Springs and a camber kit installed. The alignment was done right in front of me, and the #'s are all well within specs, but the car still pulls to the left.
What can be done about this? It's drivin' me nuts!!

HM_Motorsports

iTrader: (1)

Brake caliper may be dragging. does it get worse when you brake? If it does it could be the caliper on the side it's pulling to. Also check your tire pressure, if it's off enough it can create a pull. If all those check out, have your bearings looked at, i suspect a bearing bad enough to cause a pull should have some noise associated with it but ya never know.

Eyceman666

HM - Thanks for the response, but the calipers and tire pressure were the first things I checked for. It doesn't get worse w/ breaking, it's pretty constant, 'specially on the highway. I don't know about the bearing though, but there are no noises or anything like that, no vibration - smooth as it always was ... that's why it's driving me nuts

shissqbob

iTrader: (14)

Hey guys, I was wondering if it's possible for me to somehow put LED's behind my clock and buttons in the middle console because the lights there are kind of dull. Also, do ALL of the buttons on/near the auto climate screen light up because im not sure if mine are burn't out.


Thanks a lot.

mbandi

iTrader: (1)

It can be within spec and still pull to one direction. It may need the front camber adjusted further in one direction to fix that problem.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

There are quite a few LED writeups in the 4th Gen FAQ Sticky.
No specific Auto climate writeup but you should be able to work it out from looking at the Manual controls writeup.

http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?searchid=498522

olounda

So i am really new here, and i dont know where the I30 section is, but since the cars are all the same i need to replace the rear valve cover gasket on my 98 i30. I know it is a lot of work, but any advice would be great. has anyone had to do this?

trialt

my question is for exhaust..which would be the best sounding/performing between the apex WS, HKS or greddy sp2?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

sp2....look in the stickies!

Jagger2001

Has anyone ever had a Flowmaster on a VQ30? I had a Dodge Stealth w/SOHC 3.0L V6 and had custom 2.5" catback with a 2 chamber Flowmaster and it sounded saweet, very nice low tone. Wondering if I could get the same effect on my Maxima. Also looking at possibly getting a custom y-pipe for that dual exhaust look, but would it really help that much? I currently have no other mods ....

kaneda_77

iTrader: (5)

I have a problem with my coolant system I think. I bought my 95 GXE a couple months ago and have been doing some tuning and maintenance here and there, but I am not totally sure. The temp gage reads right in the middle, but it really seems like the engine is running hot to me. I checked the coolant reservoir and it was empty, so I filled it up. It spit it out eventually, I haven't had a chance to pinpoint where it leaks from. The radiator looks pretty new. Also, I smell a hint of coolant when I have the air on, but that's also when I am stopped. It seems like it could be a thermostat problem rather than just a leak... but if I were low on coolant it would be running hotter.