Anybody who installed their own b-pipe or exhaust step in
10-08-2006, 12:53 PM
#1
Anybody who installed their own b-pipe or exhaust step in
I have my cattman b pipe waiting to be installed. Just got it friday but would like to put it on the car as soon as possible. Since I can swap the pipes when I want, what do I need exactly? I'm going to get new hangers, and bolts probably. Did you guys reuse bolts? And what else do I need to replace? Thanks for the help.
10-08-2006, 01:30 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 188
You're gonna need to get it up pretty high to work under it comfortably. Four jackstands and a creeper. Will need new gaskets for both ends. Original bolts are probably rusted solid. I needed a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket, a hacksaw, a big hammer and chisel, a big 1/2" drill, and eye protection just to remove four rusted bolts. If bolts are original, reusing them will be impossible. Will also need an O2 sensor socket if your car is so equiped. Mine took me most of the day, but I saved a bunch of money.
10-08-2006, 01:47 PM
#4
Ok I have two jack stands and a creeper. I have all the tools I would need. Probably use my Swazall to cut the bolts. I'm not replacing the other stuff yet so I dont want to cut everything up so I'm slightly hesitant. My O2 that is there now will be ok to pop back inside correct? I'll replace those later anyways.
-Tools
-O2 socket (dealer? autozone? not sure where to pick it up)
-Gaskets for front and back of pipe (dealer?)
-Socket to remove O2's (autozone)
-Bolts (what size and strength?)
Anything else?
-Tools
-O2 socket (dealer? autozone? not sure where to pick it up)
-Gaskets for front and back of pipe (dealer?)
-Socket to remove O2's (autozone)
-Bolts (what size and strength?)
Anything else?
10-08-2006, 01:52 PM
#5
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY/Tampa, FL
Posts: 533
I am also waiting for my cattman b-pipe. I already installed the cattman rear section and what a PITA that was. The bolts were rusted so bad that it looked like the bolts and flange were 1 piece. I went up to a local private shop and let them replace the b-pipe bolts for $20. So now when the b-pipe arrives, I can install it myself a lot quicker. The rear section took me about 2 hours to get the stock off and about 5 minutes to put the cattman in. So that really should have taken about 15 minutes at the most if the bolts weren't rusted. You live tn the northeast so yours will probably be just as bad as mine were. Just watch out for the rusted bolts.
10-08-2006, 01:58 PM
#6
O yeah I'm expecting some really bad looking bolts. I was thinking that I might actually go to a shop and see if they could get the bolts off. Then I'll do the rest, since I wont have too much space under there with the sawzall.
10-08-2006, 01:58 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 648
The bolts will need to be replaced if they are original. The bolts are M10, and you will need nuts as well that are M10. Class 10 bolts will be fine. I got my bolts off with a vise grip. It was a pain but it needed to be done. Get some PB blaster. The b-pipe should have a hanger or place to bolt on. You'll know when you have the part. You might want to saw off the original b-pipe so that you have more room to get to the bolts. You can get gaskets from autozone. Mine didnt have an o2 sensor just a plug. I had to order one online $5 since the plug was an M18, and no-one stocked it. An o2 sensor socket is $10 at autozone. Get some anti-sieze for the bolts.
10-08-2006, 02:55 PM
#10
i would soak all bolts in oil the day before, get new nuts n bolts, gasketmaker material, gaskets, ramps, ratchet set and breaker bar, thats pretty much it.
ohh, try to warm up the exhaust, bolts are less likely to break when they are warm. i did mine in the winter and what a pain if it snaps, hours of drilling and dremeling.
ohh, try to warm up the exhaust, bolts are less likely to break when they are warm. i did mine in the winter and what a pain if it snaps, hours of drilling and dremeling.
10-08-2006, 04:53 PM
#11
Get two more jackstands, you need a bit of room if you are wiggling the b-pipe out in one piece. If things are in bad shape I would just cut it. Be careful with drilling through pieces you are going to be reusing.
Wear eye protection. Rust in the eye is a bish.
Wear eye protection. Rust in the eye is a bish.
10-08-2006, 09:31 PM
#13
Ok thanks for the help guys. I'll try to grab two more stands from my dads friend. I think he has some I could use. I'll probably be doing this by myself since my friends are at college and my dad will be at work. What is the gasketmaker material?
10-09-2006, 06:03 PM
#19
Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 73
no one is willing to work on my ypipe! one shop says that it's illegal. Asked him if he can get the bolts off for me...he stripped the bolts.
Another shop said the same thing. He said he can burn it off but his boss won't let him bother with it.
Another shop said the same thing. He said he can burn it off but his boss won't let him bother with it.
10-09-2006, 06:13 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 648
Originally Posted by sam29281
no one is willing to work on my ypipe! one shop says that it's illegal. Asked him if he can get the bolts off for me...he stripped the bolts.
Another shop said the same thing. He said he can burn it off but his boss won't let him bother with it.
Another shop said the same thing. He said he can burn it off but his boss won't let him bother with it.
10-14-2006, 11:18 AM
#21
So I went to autozone and pep boys to get gaskets for the b-pipe. Said that they had none and needed to order them. But they also told me that they were the crush flanges. Is that right? I thought those were used on the y only? If not then I'll have them order some for me. I also took a look and my bolts dont look too bad. Im sure that they really are but it looks like I'll be able to get them off. I also looked at the middle of the b-pipe. My stock seems to be hitting the shield and the bar under it. Is there supposed to be something supporting there? The whole things rattles so I cant seem to pinpoint what's not supported anymore. Help?
10-14-2006, 11:33 AM
#22
B pipe is not that hard on an install, I just did mine and it was pretty easy.
the front on my car was already on jack stand so I used my half decent autozone floor jack and a couple blocks of wood. For the o2's a cresent wrench works just fine also, make sure it has some length so that you can get some leverage.
a 14mm socket is all you'll need for the bolt. a 14mm wrench to hold the nut of the other side (when it applies).
Just position the b pipe in place and start sliding it into the hangers (hopefully it came with some) the stock scissor jack was helpful in holding the bpipe up when needed.
the front on my car was already on jack stand so I used my half decent autozone floor jack and a couple blocks of wood. For the o2's a cresent wrench works just fine also, make sure it has some length so that you can get some leverage.
a 14mm socket is all you'll need for the bolt. a 14mm wrench to hold the nut of the other side (when it applies).
Just position the b pipe in place and start sliding it into the hangers (hopefully it came with some) the stock scissor jack was helpful in holding the bpipe up when needed.
10-14-2006, 01:31 PM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 188
The gasket between the cat and the b pipe is a flat gasket type with holes for the bolts, I don't remember if it's metal or fiber. The gasket between the b pipe and muffler is just a metal ring that sits in an indention and I guess gets crushed when you tighten it up.
10-14-2006, 03:49 PM
#26
Well I guess I'll have to go to the dealership because the parts stores have no idea what I'm talking about. How much did you guys jack the car? I'm guessing that jacking it the same amount as doing tire work will be ok. Just not sure if I can jack it up with four stands....havnt dont that before
10-14-2006, 10:33 PM
#28
A shop's going to charge me more as well I think. If I know that one gasket is the flat style (which will probably be the same as the other gaskets on the exhaust) I'll get one of those and one crush flange. Not a problem. I'm more worried about jacking the car enough. I dont know if I can jack it high enough to get under there enough.
10-15-2006, 12:37 AM
#30
Well I want to install my pipe in a week. Not really wanting to spend time with some random guy for his lift haha. I'll fit under the car....just hope that I dont have to use the sawzall. Not sure if that will fit.
10-19-2006, 12:40 PM
#31
if i get a shop to break my bolts loose on the whole exhaust, from the y-pipe to the axleback, would they have the correct bolts and nuts or do i need to find them on my own? if not would home depot work? i believe theres about 12 bolts in all, are they all the same size?
10-19-2006, 02:00 PM
#32
Auto store will have the bolts. Or any place that has M10 bolts. I'm picking up the gaskets and bolts tomorrow morning and going to town on the pipe. Maybe even have time later to have the shop fab the greddy muffler on too.
10-19-2006, 02:18 PM
#34
No I bought my Cattman on here. Gotta get my own gaskets. Yes all the bolts are M10. You need M10 nuts too. My only concern is making sure that my O2 fits right...not sure if I need a gromet or anyting.
10-19-2006, 04:05 PM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
No I bought my Cattman on here. Gotta get my own gaskets. Yes all the bolts are M10. You need M10 nuts too. My only concern is making sure that my O2 fits right...not sure if I need a gromet or anyting.
No you don't need a gromet around the o2, you only need a gasket at the cat, and the rear axle
10-19-2006, 05:18 PM
#36
Picking them up tomorrow. Sunten where is the best place to get some hangers quick? My b right now jumps a lot and I cant see what exactly is broken lose. Would like to have everything before I jack the car and work. It's hitting the shield and the bar that sits under the b pipe in the middle of the car...
10-20-2006, 12:00 PM
#37
Well I just spent 3 hours trying to get it the b pipe out. Got no where. I can't get the car up enough to try to get leverage. Sawzall does basically nothing and there's not room to get a drill in there. I called a shop and they're taking a look at it on friday. Would much rather have the entire exhaust ready then just rip everything out at once but I still dont have the other parts.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MaxLife17
8th Generation Maxima (2016-)
43
06-27-2019 01:37 PM
Justin Kroll
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
7
09-02-2015 11:06 AM