Compared to the recommended service in the user manual - what would you guys recommend to do?

So far I have this planned:

Coils - Got a low mile set for really cheap, so why not?
Plus - NGK Iridium beotch!
Air filter - should I stick with OEM or get a K&N?
Serpentine belt - gotta buy one.
Coolant flush - any specific brand of antifreeze I should be looking at?

What else should I do? Water pump? Chain tensioner? Valve adjustment?

 

K&N is alot better!

Prestone

and the regular oil change/filter/fuel filter

 

dont forget the tranny flush, it does help and its the second most expensive part to replace
fuel injection cleaning aint bad either

 

Buy 2.
Get a fuel filter while you're at it.


Don't mess with these.

 

If you did the recommended 60k service, just do the 30k service again.

Dave

 

I've swapped the fuel filter about 7K miles ago and the tranny fluid flushed when I did the clutch swap about 3K miles ago.

 

We can adjust our valves?!


Also, id skip on the iridiums, unless your FI'd go with plats, or if your cheap coppers

 

THE most. Seen the prices on used VQ30's? Even DEKs can be had for $350.

 

Valves are self-adjusting.

 

As said above, do not use iridiums. You will actually lose a pony or two I believe because you aren't using nitrous or turbo/super. Stick with OEM Plats

 

Are you serious? I thought everyone were swearing by them and I got a set already :cry: anyone wants to trade?

 

I think i am gonna stick with iridiums after read this thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....07609#poststop

 

pm me if u change your mind. i have a new set of plats FS

 

 

i dont know about losing hp, but theres no need to waste money on the iridiums unless your blown or juiced.

 

Iridiums are good plugs, but the seccond they get a little bit of fuel on them (and they almsot certainly will) they become crap, cutting spark by 40+%, so again unless your FI or NOS, don't do it IMO

 

Replace the power steering belt.

Replace the power steering fluid.

Inspections - exhaust, suspension, etc.

 

Should i bother about the alternator belt?

 

It takes 5-8 mins to change mine, so I don't see why not.

 

Coolant -- my recommendation is to stick w/ nissan OEM coolant. really - it's not worth saving $10 over the course of 5 years to risk cooling system issues with something else (have you seen all the "I have no heat" and "my heater core is clogged" or the "my radiator took a dump" threads over the past few months??). all those people mixed in something other than a Japanese coolant, and they all paid dearly for it. if you do a full flush w/distilled water first, you can use Zerex G05, or one of the long-life "all makes/all models". but... do NOT use the traditional "silicated" green under any circumstances.

Air filter -- stick with OEM. the K&N will let excess dirt get by, and it will cause elevated wear on your engine internals. many used oil analyses confirm it (oil fanatics call this "sand blasting" your engine).

Brake fluid -- flush it completely every 3 years.

 

Thanks for the heads up

 

if your spark plugs were changed @ 60k, you don't have to change them again until 120k, well unless you went w/ something other than oem i think.

 

I don't know if they were or not as I can't find any records of it in the jumble of maintenance records from the previous owner.

 

Easy enough to do, and helps MPG, just change em. but use a little anti sieze on the threads

 

should do a chassis/ suspension grease job too, other than that it looks like everything else was well covered

 

Id reccomend toyota red coolant, or honda blue. Both of which from what ive heard are better then the nissan stuff and looks kewl

the way i look at it, if supra guys pushing 1000RHWP + use toyota red, then its good enough for my sub 200WHP maxima :P

 

how much coolant do maximas require?

 

the system is 9qts (including 7/8qt in the reservoir). the radiator holds about 1 gallon. so -- what you do is completely flush the entire system with distilled water (takes about 4 gallons), then drain the radiator and refill with full strength coolant (you only need buy 1 gallon). the result is about a 55/45 mix ratio - which is close enough to the 50/50 mix.

note - you can use Toyota red, but I don't think it is any better. do NOT buy the toyota pink or honda blue - these are pre-mixed 50/50 and designed for drain/fill of the radiator only (not to be used with water flushing).

 

What about this:

http://mynismo.com/products/?id=4512

 

it says no phosphates (fast acting corrosion inhibitor) - which means it is a different chemistry than the Japanese coolants (that use a stiff does of the stuff). and it makes no mention of what it does use for quick protection -- that alone would keep me away from it. also, it makes no mention of base chemistry (ethylene glycol or propylene glycol). personally, I would not risk it unless you find a knowledgeable person with first-hand experience to endorse it. at $5/L it is $20/gal + shipping - which provides no cost savings.

 

Hrm... I guess a trip to the Toyota Dealership and get some Toyota Red ^_^

 

I am very new to car DIY (my car is reaching towards 90K).

Would you or someone please tell me how to change the alternator belt ?

I was told by the dealer shops that, there is 1 hour labor to replace the belt.

Dont I need to take out alternator to change the belt.

Thanks,

Hamim.

 

labor is different than actual time...they work flat rate, they get paid an hour but actually takes 10 minutes to do the job.

no you dont need to remove the alternator belt. go to phatg20.net and download the fsm for your year for instructions about belt replacement.

 

You misunderstood him or there is a typo in your message. What he wants to know if you need to remove the alternator itself in order to change the belt, the answer is no.

It's really not that hard though.

 

Swapping belts takes literally 20 minutes if you have done your research and know what needs to be taken off.