90K service question
#1
90K service question
Compared to the recommended service in the user manual - what would you guys recommend to do?
So far I have this planned:
Coils - Got a low mile set for really cheap, so why not?
Plus - NGK Iridium beotch!
Air filter - should I stick with OEM or get a K&N?
Serpentine belt - gotta buy one.
Coolant flush - any specific brand of antifreeze I should be looking at?
What else should I do? Water pump? Chain tensioner? Valve adjustment?
So far I have this planned:
Coils - Got a low mile set for really cheap, so why not?
Plus - NGK Iridium beotch!
Air filter - should I stick with OEM or get a K&N?
Serpentine belt - gotta buy one.
Coolant flush - any specific brand of antifreeze I should be looking at?
What else should I do? Water pump? Chain tensioner? Valve adjustment?
#2
Originally Posted by ComradeJew
Compared to the recommended service in the user manual - what would you guys recommend to do?
So far I have this planned:
Coils - Got a low mile set for really cheap, so why not?
Plus - NGK Iridium beotch!
Air filter - should I stick with OEM or get a K&N?
Serpentine belt - gotta buy one.
Coolant flush - any specific brand of antifreeze I should be looking at?
What else should I do? Water pump? Chain tensioner? Valve adjustment?
So far I have this planned:
Coils - Got a low mile set for really cheap, so why not?
Plus - NGK Iridium beotch!
Air filter - should I stick with OEM or get a K&N?
Serpentine belt - gotta buy one.
Coolant flush - any specific brand of antifreeze I should be looking at?
What else should I do? Water pump? Chain tensioner? Valve adjustment?
Prestone
and the regular oil change/filter/fuel filter
#8
Originally Posted by kdaullary
dont forget the tranny flush, it does help and its the second most expensive part to replace
fuel injection cleaning aint bad either
fuel injection cleaning aint bad either
#11
Originally Posted by scrhale
As said above, do not use iridiums. You will actually lose a pony or two I believe because you aren't using nitrous or turbo/super. Stick with OEM Plats
#12
I think i am gonna stick with iridiums after read this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....07609#poststop
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....07609#poststop
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by ComradeJew
Compared to the recommended service in the user manual - what would you guys recommend to do?
So far I have this planned:
Coils - Got a low mile set for really cheap, so why not?
Plus - NGK Iridium beotch!
Air filter - should I stick with OEM or get a K&N?
Serpentine belt - gotta buy one.
Coolant flush - any specific brand of antifreeze I should be looking at?
What else should I do? Water pump? Chain tensioner? Valve adjustment?
So far I have this planned:
Coils - Got a low mile set for really cheap, so why not?
Plus - NGK Iridium beotch!
Air filter - should I stick with OEM or get a K&N?
Serpentine belt - gotta buy one.
Coolant flush - any specific brand of antifreeze I should be looking at?
What else should I do? Water pump? Chain tensioner? Valve adjustment?
Air filter -- stick with OEM. the K&N will let excess dirt get by, and it will cause elevated wear on your engine internals. many used oil analyses confirm it (oil fanatics call this "sand blasting" your engine).
Brake fluid -- flush it completely every 3 years.
#21
Originally Posted by sky jumper
Coolant -- my recommendation is to stick w/ nissan OEM coolant. really - it's not worth saving $10 over the course of 5 years to risk cooling system issues with something else (have you seen all the "I have no heat" and "my heater core is clogged" or the "my radiator took a dump" threads over the past few months??). all those people mixed in something other than a Japanese coolant, and they all paid dearly for it. if you do a full flush w/distilled water first, you can use Zerex G05, or one of the long-life "all makes/all models". but... do NOT use the traditional "silicated" green under any circumstances.
Air filter -- stick with OEM. the K&N will let excess dirt get by, and it will cause elevated wear on your engine internals. many used oil analyses confirm it (oil fanatics call this "sand blasting" your engine).
Brake fluid -- flush it completely every 3 years.
Air filter -- stick with OEM. the K&N will let excess dirt get by, and it will cause elevated wear on your engine internals. many used oil analyses confirm it (oil fanatics call this "sand blasting" your engine).
Brake fluid -- flush it completely every 3 years.
#23
Originally Posted by aznsap
if your spark plugs were changed @ 60k, you don't have to change them again until 120k, well unless you went w/ something other than oem i think.
#26
Id reccomend toyota red coolant, or honda blue. Both of which from what ive heard are better then the nissan stuff and looks kewl
the way i look at it, if supra guys pushing 1000RHWP + use toyota red, then its good enough for my sub 200WHP maxima :P
the way i look at it, if supra guys pushing 1000RHWP + use toyota red, then its good enough for my sub 200WHP maxima :P
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by ComradeJew
how much coolant do maximas require?
note - you can use Toyota red, but I don't think it is any better. do NOT buy the toyota pink or honda blue - these are pre-mixed 50/50 and designed for drain/fill of the radiator only (not to be used with water flushing).
#29
Originally Posted by sky jumper
the system is 9qts (including 7/8qt in the reservoir). the radiator holds about 1 gallon. so -- what you do is completely flush the entire system with distilled water (takes about 4 gallons), then drain the radiator and refill with full strength coolant (you only need buy 1 gallon). the result is about a 55/45 mix ratio - which is close enough to the 50/50 mix.
note - you can use Toyota red, but I don't think it is any better. do NOT buy the toyota pink or honda blue - these are pre-mixed 50/50 and designed for drain/fill of the radiator only (not to be used with water flushing).
note - you can use Toyota red, but I don't think it is any better. do NOT buy the toyota pink or honda blue - these are pre-mixed 50/50 and designed for drain/fill of the radiator only (not to be used with water flushing).
http://mynismo.com/products/?id=4512
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by ComradeJew
#32
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
It takes 5-8 mins to change mine, so I don't see why not.
Would you or someone please tell me how to change the alternator belt ?
I was told by the dealer shops that, there is 1 hour labor to replace the belt.
Dont I need to take out alternator to change the belt.
Thanks,
Hamim.
#33
Originally Posted by hamimp
I am very new to car DIY (my car is reaching towards 90K).
I was told by the dealer shops that, there is 1 hour labor to replace the belt.
Dont I need to take out alternator to change the belt.
Thanks,
Hamim.
I was told by the dealer shops that, there is 1 hour labor to replace the belt.
Dont I need to take out alternator to change the belt.
Thanks,
Hamim.
labor is different than actual time...they work flat rate, they get paid an hour but actually takes 10 minutes to do the job.
no you dont need to remove the alternator belt. go to phatg20.net and download the fsm for your year for instructions about belt replacement.
#34
Originally Posted by XJinCT
no you dont need to remove the alternator belt.
Originally Posted by XJinCT
go to phatg20.net and download the fsm for your year for instructions about belt replacement.
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