The new "ben's ecu mod"
#82
ben and sprint you guys are evil!
just did the mod a few days ago and im hooked. the first time after the mod when i got to 115 it sounded like it was about to cut out but that beyatch just keep pulling! i hit high 130s and ran out of room. just to think i was gonna spend like 100 bucks or more on an SE ecu. HA HA!.
total cost = $3.00 for a rocker switch from the shack.
this mod rivals the clear tailight mod for investment/satisfication return.
thanks ben and sprint. i have had my max for four years and this is the first time she has seen the other side of 118 mph.
oh yeah sprint your right its not all about doing 140, its about not getting left behind when the race starts at about 100.
thanx again bros.
total cost = $3.00 for a rocker switch from the shack.
this mod rivals the clear tailight mod for investment/satisfication return.
thanks ben and sprint. i have had my max for four years and this is the first time she has seen the other side of 118 mph.
oh yeah sprint your right its not all about doing 140, its about not getting left behind when the race starts at about 100.
thanx again bros.
#83
Originally posted by Ryan93SE
hope this one doesnt catch fire......just kidding Ben
good job...i wish i could think of these things
hope this one doesnt catch fire......just kidding Ben
good job...i wish i could think of these things
What size are you MM Evo's? Your homepage has different rims listed.
#84
Originally Posted by SprintMax
The link doesn't work anymore ...do you have the write-up with pics anywhere else?
#86
Okay so after reading some of the FAQ's I stumbled on the ECU limiter...So last night I found out my car IS limited to 115 which is the cat's *****
What ECU options do I have now? Instead of going in and rewiring and dropping a toggle swtich (I have the mechanical knowhow of a 12year old girl).??
Can I just get an ECU out of some 96 SE, manual cause I am guessing the "computer controlled mount" on the auto would throw a light? Am I corect in assuming this? If so then what other options are there. I know in my G20 ECU could be sent to JWT to be fiddled on but what companies do that for Maxima, other then JWT?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
What ECU options do I have now? Instead of going in and rewiring and dropping a toggle swtich (I have the mechanical knowhow of a 12year old girl).??
Can I just get an ECU out of some 96 SE, manual cause I am guessing the "computer controlled mount" on the auto would throw a light? Am I corect in assuming this? If so then what other options are there. I know in my G20 ECU could be sent to JWT to be fiddled on but what companies do that for Maxima, other then JWT?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
#88
here is a write up http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=15
#89
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by CharlieT
Gotta say great job well done
Luckily I got no speed limiter but I will try this on my friend MAx.
PS: I have passed 130 on my max already...Yeee Ha!!!
Luckily I got no speed limiter but I will try this on my friend MAx.
PS: I have passed 130 on my max already...Yeee Ha!!!
Yes sir, that's the beauty of having a 99...no speed limiter. Don't know if this was the only year without one..but as long as it's my year
#90
Originally Posted by kingrukus
The link doesn't work anymore ...do you have the write-up with pics anywhere else?
http://www.sprintmax.com/tails/bensecumod.htm
New link.
#92
Originally Posted by mzmtg
Gosh the things I do for you people. Ok, in no way do I condone breaking any laws. I figured out how to get rid of the speed limiter on the 4th gen. Cheston & Nick, would you mind putting this in your how-to sections??
Now for the write up:
________________________________
4th Gen Maxima Speed Limiter Removal
The ECU monitors the transmission mounted speed sensor to determine vehicle speed. When the vehicle speed limit is reached, the ECU cuts the fuel flow to the engine to slow the car.
The signal path for the vehicle speed sensor is as follows:
Sensor to Speedometer
Speedometer to ECU & Cruise Control
If the signal is interupted at the actual connection to the ECU, speedometer, odometer and cruise control functions are preserved. The ECU does not recieve a vehicle speed signal, therefore it will not limit the vehicle speed.
This modification is easy. But beware, it does include mutilation of the factory ECU wiring harness...not for the sqeamish.
1.Disconnect negative battery terminal.
2.remove ECU cover from passenger side footwell.
3.Loosen bolt in center of main ECU connector.
4.Unplug main ECU connector.
5.Remove snap-on plastic cover from ECU connector.
6.Locate PINK wire with BLUE stripe. (this wire is located on the right half of the connector when plugged in)
7.Cut PINK/BLUE wire.
8.Reassemble ECU connection.
9.Reconnect negative battery terminal.
10.Drive 140mph.
This modification will cause the "check engine" light to illuminate. If you check the codes, you will get 0104 (Vehicle speed sensor fault) and 0504 (A/T conrtrol unit fault). So far there have been no drivability problems
associated with this mod.
Enjoy.
::stands up to accept accolades from max drivers around the world::
Now for the write up:
________________________________
4th Gen Maxima Speed Limiter Removal
The ECU monitors the transmission mounted speed sensor to determine vehicle speed. When the vehicle speed limit is reached, the ECU cuts the fuel flow to the engine to slow the car.
The signal path for the vehicle speed sensor is as follows:
Sensor to Speedometer
Speedometer to ECU & Cruise Control
If the signal is interupted at the actual connection to the ECU, speedometer, odometer and cruise control functions are preserved. The ECU does not recieve a vehicle speed signal, therefore it will not limit the vehicle speed.
This modification is easy. But beware, it does include mutilation of the factory ECU wiring harness...not for the sqeamish.
1.Disconnect negative battery terminal.
2.remove ECU cover from passenger side footwell.
3.Loosen bolt in center of main ECU connector.
4.Unplug main ECU connector.
5.Remove snap-on plastic cover from ECU connector.
6.Locate PINK wire with BLUE stripe. (this wire is located on the right half of the connector when plugged in)
7.Cut PINK/BLUE wire.
8.Reassemble ECU connection.
9.Reconnect negative battery terminal.
10.Drive 140mph.
This modification will cause the "check engine" light to illuminate. If you check the codes, you will get 0104 (Vehicle speed sensor fault) and 0504 (A/T conrtrol unit fault). So far there have been no drivability problems
associated with this mod.
Enjoy.
::stands up to accept accolades from max drivers around the world::
I have a 98 GXE and the code that I got when I cut the speed limiter wire was 0203 (Closed Throttle Position Switch). This is obviously different from what is in the stickies. I installed a cheapo radioshack toggle switch and have driven hundreds of miles with the switch in the "off" position and have not gotten any more CEL's. With the toggle in the off position the speed limiter is still engaged (I tried it, it cut me off at 115 or so). I'm exhuming this ancient post to share my experience with this mod. The mod is easy. The toggle switch costs like three bucks. If you have a GXE, the wire that you need to find is easy to locate. It is the ONLY WIRE that is pink with a BLUE stripe. Get some butt connectors and a cheapo toggle switch and you can go as fast as the engine will take you with no CEL.
#94
#96
I don't think anyone has ever got on a dyno and proved that an A32 SE has a speed limiter. So, I will assume 149, but I don't think it makes much of a difference. So yes,
Not only that, but a dynojet does not simulate load (drag), so who cares if you get to 155 on the dyno, Cd will probable be > you. But the A32 does have a good Cd, better than IIRC the A34 .
I will now:
Not only that, but a dynojet does not simulate load (drag), so who cares if you get to 155 on the dyno, Cd will probable be > you. But the A32 does have a good Cd, better than IIRC the A34 .
I will now:
#98
I don't think anyone has ever got on a dyno and proved that an A32 SE has a speed limiter. So, I will assume 149, but I don't think it makes much of a difference. So yes,
Not only that, but a dynojet does not simulate load (drag), so who cares if you get to 155 on the dyno, Cd will probable be > you. But the A32 does have a good Cd, better than IIRC the A34 .
I will now:
Not only that, but a dynojet does not simulate load (drag), so who cares if you get to 155 on the dyno, Cd will probable be > you. But the A32 does have a good Cd, better than IIRC the A34 .
I will now:
#100
a few questions. The wire to splice into is the closest one to the bolt that holds the ecu into place correct? Second do i cut the pink/blue itself or splice a section in. Cause how would I wire a rocker switch into it? Like i have a wire coming from on/off how would I wire that to my ecu?? Thanks in advance for the help
Last edited by wirelessdude04; 12-12-2007 at 10:42 AM.
#101
Hey, just a thought but...
is the signal on this wire a voltage that is proportional to speed? If so then all you need is a voltage clamp like a zener diode then when you go over a certain speed, the voltage will stop climbing and the ECU thinks you've leveled off.
Pick a zener with a clamp voltage equal to, say, 75mph and you get the added benefit that if they ever pull the ECU to see how fast you were going, it'll never tell them more than 75!
oh, and everything else will work proper too.
is the signal on this wire a voltage that is proportional to speed? If so then all you need is a voltage clamp like a zener diode then when you go over a certain speed, the voltage will stop climbing and the ECU thinks you've leveled off.
Pick a zener with a clamp voltage equal to, say, 75mph and you get the added benefit that if they ever pull the ECU to see how fast you were going, it'll never tell them more than 75!
oh, and everything else will work proper too.
#106
yea i got a 95max auto trans and i have went past 130 many times but like someone said wonder if there are any long term effects cause i dont wanna do it and lose a car three months later..... lol.... when u get involved with ecu it gets serious but i might try it, it sounds tempting
#107
and im sure OBD 1 and OBD 2 have alot to do with it too cause mines 95 and it is like beginnign of 95 so technically its 94 u really have to check wen it was made but i dont know figured maybe that would have to do with somethings to wether its throwing codes or not but im sure they didnt change the ecu wirings
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