Thanks again bro, I didn't know you'd responded. Yeah there's voltage at the fans. From pictures of fan motors on autozone they look sealed so I might take you up on that offer. Autozone sells a single motor for more than the shroud with 2 fans installed At least it's only going to be in the 70's this weekend.

 

Before my engine light was on, i cleared all the code ( screw driver on computer) before clearing : codes were: 0304, 0901, 1001, 0707, 0510, 0701,

after clearing; ran car on highway ( 10-15, minutes), then no engine light, but
computer was generating code 0304.

by the way, thank you very much for replying, much appreciated.

cheers.

 

OK so i am installing a new support because my old one rusted through. I have already pulled my headlights bumper n radiator out in preperation for the install.I have a body guy who is goping to do the welding for me. I would just like to know if there is any information that is important about doing this prior to doing so , i am a novice mechanic at best so i just dont wanna get my self in to deep, tell me wat ya think,, thanksss

 

im planning on doing an engine swap for my 4th gen and i was planning on putting the vq35de motor in. i have a auto and i was wondering if there would be any problems/annoyances with that? anything i should modify while doing the swap?

 

Through some research utilizing the "Google Search Method" Iv'e pinpointed the reason for the noise in my Manual Transmission (ISB's).

My Question:

Can anyone turn me on to a good Nissan shop in the Greensboro/High Point, NC area?

TIA
-Mike

 

This is a cut&paste from a post I made in the relevant thread but no one is responding there and I'm hoping I'll get some attention here before I end up droping a G to fix this stupid thing.

Thanks.

 

did you do any research with this at all? This is all mapped out in the sticky already. Autos are some what ify with the 3.5 swap. Some believe that it can take it some believe it can't take the power. If you keep the auto then you should get a cooler at the very least. Try to find a VB and a high stall TC. Anything to strengthen the tranny is best.

 

yeah ive been reading around the stickies...
guess i mustve missed it.
thanks man

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=523492

 

Let's do that, I'm pming you now, thanks

 

Like KRRZ350 said, check fluid level, and if it's low, check for where it's leaking at.

BTW, I've got a set of those trans solenoids laying around, I'll have to check if they're good or not, but if so, how's $50 shipped?

 

0304=Knock Sensor, much info in stickies, causes timing to be retarded giving lower power and fuel economy, but is NOT the cause of you're problem...

0901=o2 code.......

1001=o2 code........

0707=o2 code........

0510= closed throttle position switch (tps, grey connector)

0701= multiple cylinder misfire

Now, for the last ones......So you wasted 1/2 tank of gas and three hours of your life while you scratched your head and disconnected sensors and coils? wtf is wrong with you!! With the price of gas nowadays you could have taken it to a real mechanic and had it fixed for not much more! If you so choose, make sure the vacuum line running to the fpr is getting vacuum @ idle, then go to a self-serve junkyard, wheel and deal them to get a fuel-pressure regulator for $5, maybe $10, and install it on your car (with NEW o-ring from the dealer!).

 

Sent my car to Pedders for suspension check, and they told me my tie end rods are worn and knocking and my lower control arm bushes needs replacement as well.

Here are my questions:

1) If my tie rod ends are faulty, how is it affecting the car's handling? The steering wheel vibrates when driving over bumps and I can hear knocking noise as well (noise not from shocks), so are these problems from the tie rod ends?

2) Lower Control Arm bushes needs replacement, and how has this affect the car's handling? Does noise and vibrations has anything to do with these bushes? Nissan told me the bushes on the arm comes in one piece including the ball joint, and they said there is no point replacing the bushes when the ball joint will need replacement sooner or later, so it is better to buy the whole piece and replace them. Are they correct? Or should I just replace the bushes only?

3) On the report, it also says that my steering rack has internal wear, and it is also leaking oil, but replacing the whole rack is too expensive for me. So, I want to find out, if I do not replace them, would they cause any danger and will I still get knocking noises when driving over bumps (After I replaced tie rod ends and lower control arms)?

At this stage, all the repair job is going to cost me a bomb, I just want to eliminate steering vibrations and knocking noise when driving over bumps, will replacing tie rod ends and control arm do?

 

Well I'm not sitting underneath your car, but I have a feeling if I was..............................

I'd agree with everything you have been told. Tie-rods are common wear items, lca bushings are very common wear items on max w/your mileage/age/condition-- and only come as a complete arm as stated. All the symptoms match up with all the problems, and are clearly the cause. Obviously I can't confirm that your rack is leaking, or that is has internal wear, but depending on where it is leaking they are probably also correct. Honestly..... there are no questions to answer here, they have all been answered by the shop; and in a way; yourself. I get the impression that you just don't want to spend $900 on parts, and $1350 on labor (I answered your Q, answer mine........ how close are my drunken estimates?) And I totally feel you on that one, it's very understandable, however there is always the option of DIY, if you are willing to learn and spend some of the cash on tools, you would save ALOT on parts & labor. Allthough it is understandable that you want to confirm everything before shelling out such large amounts of $$, if indeed your tie-rods are bad, and your steering rack does have internal wear, and your lca bushing are shot, major safety issues arise..... and I have no respect for you if you cause an accident and kill an innocent person.......... just a thought before you get behind the wheel again..........

 

Thanks for that, I am willing to replace the tie rod ends and the lower arms but getting hold of a brand new steering rack is simply too enpensive, and not worth spending the money considering how much my Maxima is worth at the moment.

With so much less supports we get here down Australia, it is a big risk to take if I go ahead to DIY the steering replacement, I cannot even find a reconditioned steering rack for A32 locally. All of the wreckers I visited told me the same thing "We haven't wreck one yet", so yeah, Maximas are rare here, and especially A32.

I read somewhere that someone used a 99' steering rack, supposedly much stronger than the 97. But should I really go for a brand new set or if I manaed to get hold of a reconditioned unit, can they do as well?

 

97 - 99 have the same rack, 95-96 is the weaker one, am i correct ?

 

They came on 97-99 se's and 98-99 I30's (except the rare base model)

Yes a remanufactured rack will do just fine. I know the newer style racks have a better feel, and I believe they are indeed stronger, but don't quote me on that. I geustimated the weight of the '98 I30 rack w/70k I have laying around as 40lb's, I would need to measure & weigh it to make sure it isn't to large to ship to australia, and for a more accurate quote, but I might be able to do one for $245 shipped to australia, I don't know if that's less than the reman units or not.........

 

Thanks, But I am looking for someone maybe a bit closer. Anyone within 100 Miles of Baltimore, DC area that does work out there?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...sprune=-1&f=14

 

http://forums.maxima.org/member.php?u=121

Mardigrasmax is the owner/builder of the fastest maxima, and he is nearby, he does any and all work on other .org members cars, I would highly recommend him.

 

I seem to have a leak in my water-lines somewhere inbetween the throttle body/air filter (underneath). I am unfamilar with the location of all the water hoses/cant seem to trace it. Anyone with a quick answer would be nice, I just have a 95 max with a v6.

 

There's a coolant line that goes into the throttle body (TB). It may be damaged. Uninstall the intake assembly, and look further into the problem. It may be a small hole in a hose. This hose can be bought from your local auto parts store. Match the hose size, install, and you should be fixed.

Also, all 4th gen Maximas come with a V6.

 

Our Maximas are RHD, I don't think they will be the same?

 

Yeah you are correct, never thought about that, it deffinitly won't work.

 

Yeah I figured as much NMex, it cuts down on confusion but i figured I'd post that anyway, lol. Get tired of people saying year make model?

There are like 2 hoses stacked on top of eachother that run around the back of the engine from that front side inbetween where I mentioned. Apparently the top hose busted, and also as a bonus! The bottom small hose thats only like 4 inches long.... and probably a quarter inch in size is broken too (above those copper looking tubes). I'm so thrown off at having a nissan... 240,000 miles on it and I'm just amazed it isnt falling completely apart. I want to unload this thing as soon as I can, lol.

Edit: I really don't know how it would bust both tubes at once, it almost seems like theres leaking by the passenger side too which scares me a little. It was a bit low on water unbenounced to me and ... gah, I really hope water-pumps are cheap, lol. I've changed a saturn sl2's waterpump, cant be harder than that.

 

Lol, it's not exactly one of the easiest water-pumps, there is a very good write-up in the stickies. 240k, that's nothing for these cars, ok, yeah it's alot, but the engine is good for 400k, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 

But I'd rather have it tied into that area of the engine vs AC/PS belt like some other cars

 

Thank you sir.

 

Hi I just bought a Dual XDVD8181 and am in the process of taking out my factory CD player...I bought the wiring harness and the bracket kit..

now I just am confused as to where all the plugs from the harness go to connect to the headunit...im very new at this.

 

This place might help.
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...aysprune=&f=25

 

lol I'm still technically a noob for Maximas and thought this would be a decent place to ask this question:

on Maximas, are the engine crossmembers the same or different between autos and manuals?

I'd imagine so because on my car (an Altima) the automatic subframe sits the rear of the engine crossmember a little to the passenger side (maybe an inch total) where as the front of the crossmember is bolted right in the middle of the radiator core support. Is that true on Maximas as well?

 

ECU Reliability -

I've been told the ECU is dying on my '95 A32 (odd stalling problems - been through ignition and fuel systems already, and the ECU won't communicate reliably to the diagnostic tool). Unfortunately here in Australia a replacement is around $1,200 for a new after-market unit(!!), or $150 from a wreckers.

Could I please ask for comments on whether the ECU's are generally reliable? or would I just be wasting time and money trying a second-hand unit (likely to fail soon too?)

In terms of history, the Maxima is totally stock, has 125,000km up, and we've had it from new.

 

They are the same

 

The ecu's are so reliable that I actually have a hard time believing that is the cause of your stalling. You said you have been through the fuel and ignition systems, but the IACV motor or a problem with the lock-up tourqe convertor have given many people on here stalling issues. If it is in fact the ecu, and a scan tool really is having problems comunicating, than have no fear about a junk-yard ecu.

 

Thanks for the reply

Was hoping it wasn't the ECU too. I've searched through the forums for help, and used the info here to do the basics - cleaned the IAC, throttle body, checked temp sensors, throttle sensor, maf, fuel reg etc. Then took it to the workshop where they've done the same things (at least I was on the right track ), plus cleaned the injectors, checked the other sensors etc. They've changed the ECU with a test unit, and is all OK - so it seems pretty certain it's a bad ECU. I'll try a second-hand ECU and see how it goes.

The stalling happens at just one point in the warmup, and will do it whether it is at idle or driving at speed. Once warm everything is fine. Feels like the ignition gets cut for a few seconds, and when it stalls at idle it floods so you have to leave it for a while before you can start again.

Very embarrassing when it dies on the way into a roundabout and you're suddenly left without power-steering....

Thanks again.

 

I have looked through the stickies and ECU code lists so forgive me if I've missed something. Just got a 99 SE and thought I would check to see if there are codes in the ECU. Didn't have a check engine light but thought I would check and at least learn how to do it. I'm getting the code 14 (long) 06 (short) and don't see it listed anywhere. Possibly just a code that shows that the self-diag mode is working but nothing is wrong? can someone enlighten me?

 

1406 is not in the fsm, after doing a bit of research I found that it is one of those mystery codes that apparently has something to do with the anti-theft sytem. Since your car is a '99 with the NVATS you may have to go to the nissan dealer to get it taken care of if it comes back after resetting it.

 

Just got a 99 SE automatic w/ 70K miles. Seems to stumble or hesitate when trying to accelerate. Nothing really jerky, but seems like car repeatedly gains and loses power, especially when accelerating from coasting speed like after turning a corner. I start pressing the accelerator and get no increase in revs or speed. Continue to press the accel further and then it kicks down a gear and gets going. I also experience a loss of power right after shift points especially when it shifts from 1-2 and 2-3. It shifts and then hesitates for a second or two before getting going. I'm tempted to say it feels like a tranny shift-point issue rather than an engine issue but it is never really abrupt or jerky. Compared to my 93 VE which shifted quickly and pulled consistently to highway speeds it is disappointing. No check engine light and not throwing codes. Getting good MPG (26.2 mpg going 70+ on a long trip w/ a/c going full blast). Car idles perfect. I'm about to do the whole 60K service so I hope that that will improve things, but is there something specific I should check or do in addition? Thanks to ALL who know so much on here and are willing to help.

 

Yes, while you should also do what you listed above, the '99 ignition coils are junk and prone to causing the same symptoms as above, though I thought the CEL would usually flash intermittenly but not store codes, take a look at that next time it's happening, also scanning the codes to make sure you don't have a knock sensor ghost code is advised. It does not sound like a tranny problem to me

 

It does it consistently but the CEL never comes on. I do have that 14 06 code that I described above that does not appear in any of the code lists. It just seems odd that it would run perfect at idle and great on the highway........can't really test coils other than at idle. All I know is that my 3rd gen pulls up to speed much nicer than my 4th gen. Other 4th gens I've driven certainly don't act like this. Hopefully it gets better after the 60K love. Anything else I may want to look into?