those were optional for an extra charge, he is lucky to have em cause they are rare

 

Are all 98's wired for them though? If I bought 98-99 SE seats with the side airbag, would I be able to plug them into existing harnesses or no?

 

that i am not sure about, i think u would have problems through.

1st the check the fuse box in the engine bay for the right fuse, then under the eats should be some loose wires

i would not play around with this

 

Well the reason I was asking about it was I have a 98 SE without the side airbags and the driver's seat leather is pretty worn out. I was looking to replace it with a set of 99 SE seats from a guy and his has the side airbags.

I'm still trying to figure out why the airbag light is flashing for me too.

 

Probably need the to have the bag checked. You can use the 99 seat without a problem but I'm not sure you can wire in the bag so easily. Glad I already have them.

 

Hello all,

I am in quick need of some valuable info. I have read the many posts concerning the EGR valve in which mine is giving the 0302 code. My question is my Max has begun stalling here and there while driving, the fact that it is cutting off while in drive- is that enough info to pinpoint specifically which problem it is concerning the EGR. Please help- 8 days until inspection and I am looking to do work on my own if possible. Thanks for any info!

 

Yes mine came with all the possible options on 98 SE. Literally.
As far as wiring 99 Seats wt/Bags on 98, I would check that again, cause I had that option as well when my AIR BAG light was flashing, there was a 99 ES in Junk Yard whose rear was gone so no bag damage and I was getting the pair for 350, which was a steal but couple guys at local mechanic shops and my Nissan guy told me that the air bags will not be usable, but the light will stop flashing. I could not find it convincing enough either or so I just went with the repair but if you want to do that swap make sure you check with someone who really know this stuff or already has done so.

 

Well to be honest I don't really care if the side airbags end up being functional or not if I switch to the 99 seats. I just want the stupid airbag light to go off. I was thinking of just removing the bulb in the cluster if I can't figure it out.

 

Question: Will 1157 bulbs fit into 1156?

I've been trying to search around for the answer but I cant seem to find a difference...

I'm trying to get these put in:
http://autolumination.com/switchback.html

However, they only make it for 1157 bulb size.

Here's a vid of it in action:
http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?i...backledsr3.flv

 

^^^^Use a nail clip or file the nub off in order to make it fit.

The 1157 'nub' pattern wont line up to the 1156 socket. So, follow the above advice and it will work. But the 1157 is dual filament, whereas the 1156 is single, but brighter than the first 'stage' of he 1157. What lights are you planning on modifying?

 

i wanna buy these light. wanna oppinion about the product.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/95-99-NISSAN-MAXI...QQcmdZViewItem

 

does any one know where to get a grille that actually fits my car besides the dealer, most of the stores out there do not match my car well at all
thx

 

75$ y-pipe for sale on e-bay
http://cm.ebay.com/cm/ck/1065-29296-...ver=LCA080805& item=150126447715&lk=URL
thx

 

Lights are fine.

Ebay, classifieds, google search. All easy places to find parts.

Point of this post is what? And the link just goes to ebay homepage? :sractch:

 

well... the front signals for my '97 maxima are 1156, but these bulbs only come in 1157. i wanted my car to kinda do what that tl did.

any way that i could just replace the socket and change the 1156 to an 1157? will it work or will it cause problems?

 

Ok... I'm a bit of a suspension noob... so I have a probably slightly stupid question.

I just bought a 1997 maxima with tokico illumina gas adjustable struts on it, which I love. However, there is way too much wheel gap. I love the feel of the car right now with stock springs and the tokico struts, and I'm wondering what the best option is if I want to lower the car like 1.5" or less. The previous owner told me that if I lowered it much more than 1" it would void the warranty on my raxles drive axles. Also, I don't want the car slammed, but I'm buying 18's soon and I want the car to have less wheel gap and sit at a reasonable height. And because I already love the feel of the suspension, I don't want anything that will substantially change the handling dynamics.

So that's basically it. What's the best way to drop a car 1.5" or less, without substantially changing the current suspension feel.

Also, can anyone confirm how low you can drop a car before the raxles warranty is voided? I didn't see anything on their site under warranty mentioning this.

 

there is a whole suspension thread for you to look at to answer your questions. You're wants are a somewhat unreachable. If you want the car to be lowered that is of course an easy possibility. New springs will drop the car and make the handling better, but if you're looking for ride quality, don't go lower without coilovers. Any after market setup will be harsher than stock. h&r's paired with illuminas is supposedly the most comfortable ride for strut/spring combo and is about a 1.5 drop. You need to take into consideration the axles as well. If you don't care about the warranty then lower the car, otherwise be careful. Springs do set and the go may end up lower than 1.5" drop. Search into the suspension threads and you should find even more info.

 

Hello All,

Sorry for the long post, but I know details are important so I wanted to include all that I could just in case. I recently picked up a 95 SE Auto w/102k mi. Everything seemed fine when I purchased the car. About one week later the car started surging a little bit between 2300 - 3300 RPM's (approx). The following week it started lurching badly when pulling away from a dead stop. This didn't happen all the time, some days it would happen once and other days it would happen 8 or 10 times (if I floored the gas then it would eventually climb to over 3200-3300 RPM's and the problem resolves temporarily). I researched on here and signs seemed to point to a MAF issue. I cleaned the MAF sensor with the recommended MAF cleaner from Autozone and let dry for 30 minutes or so. After I put everything back together the car started right up but there was a sound kind of like a small vacuum cleaner that seemed to be loudest somewhere about midway underneath the car. It seemed to drive a lot more smoothly (no lurching), but there was now a more pronounced loss of power between 2300rpm and 3300rpm and the vacuum sound would get louder in that range. I drove it like this for two days. We had a heavy, heavy rain and directly after the rain stopped I drove to the store (like 5 miles away) the engine cutoff at a stoplight and it took many cranks before it cut back on. Once I got it started I kept driving around for a bit and the problem did not occur again, but the engine sounded like it was running in molasses (a thick, muted sound on the revs). This was three days ago and the car has not cutoff again since and the engine sound is back to normal, but the weather has been very dry. Yesterday, I replaced the air filter and the vacuum sound went away, but I'm still living with the surging acceleration and a serious power drop in the same RPM range as well as continuing hiccups in the idle. I called around to several mechanics and none of them seemed to have any firm ideas on where to troubleshoot first. I don't have the money to play scavenger hunt at a shop. Can anyone offer any suggestions??

 

im a newb on the org, but I have had my max for a year and I know it very well.

One of the problems you could be having is that your knock sensor is bad. If you have poor gas mileage and no power in the low rpms, its usually the Knock Sensor. I know this because i have the same problem right now. As for the engine cutting off, im clueless. Try pulling your codes when you get a chance and if you get a 0304, its the knock sensor. Even if you CEL isnt on, you could still be pulling codes.

Hope this helps.

 

Did you test the maf? Having a bad maf isn't solved by cleaning it. If the maf is shot its shot. The maf itself could be shot. The vacuum sound was probably a leak from before. You can try to change the ks but it would not cause the symtoms you have. Even with a broken ks the car wouldn't act the way it is. Slow acceleration yeah but not the other stuff. The are most likely closely related. Thats all I can say for now. I'm not sure what would cause the shut off in the bad weather.

 

How can I make my motor look nicer? The engine compartment is very clean so it"s not in need of degreasing,but the aluminum is dull and discolored. Is there a way to make it look nicer? Thanks.

 

What parts? Metal Polish? Wash it? What are you looking to do?

 

I'm looking to get the aluminum brighter. I was thinking about one of those polishing ***** for a drill and some kind of cleaner or polish, but wanted to see if there were any other ideas. I guess I could paint it but that looks hard to do , but maybe easier then buffing.

 

get polish, the mini powerball if you want and get ready to use elbow grease. You have to do some work to make it look clean again.

 

Thanks for the additional info! To update the situation, we had light rain today and I experienced the lurching problem again, but it lasted until I was up to 60mph which it has never gone beyond 40mph before. Basically, I'm back to square one. I'll try testing the MAF (I'm not sure how to do this, but I'll look around first before I ask for the steps) or just buy another one. I've got a couple of them priced around $70-$80 used in my area....has anyone bought a used MAF before or have any recommendations for/against used ones? Also, does anyone think this may sound like a failing fuel pump (although, it doesn't seem to matter whether I have a full tank or near empty)? Thanks again, this forum is fantastic!

 

Well the maf probably isn't shot then. A busted maf will make fuel cut off at about 2500rpms I believe (something close to that). It could be having a problem but if you can reach 60mph and 40mph then it's probably not the maf. Unfortunately I'm not sure about the problem now.

 

im new to the org and have been lurking around for a while i have a 98 se and the engine gives a deep whistle when i accelrate. Im just wondering if this is normal with all maximas. My friend has a 96 and his gives a light whistle but mine is very high pitched and sounds like the car is super charged when the engine is all stock. I have a big exaust tip and i think maybe the previous owner tampered with the intake but im just wondering if this is normal. thanks in advance

 

Well is the intake modified or not? It will cause more sound if it's been tampered. It could be a leak. A big exhaust tip doesnt mean anything, you still have the stock muffler. Does the sound seem to come through the audio? If so that's not a big issue. I have it I think (don't know now cause I don't usually pay attention to it). Some other guys have had it too.

 

Everything is stock....If you rev your engine you hear a loud whistle sound very high pitched...if it was a vacuum leak would the service engine come on?? i have had the car since march of 2006 and its always had the whistle and has givin no problems... it just seems deeper than the usual stock sound my friend has a 96 se and he reved and i heard a loud whistle but thats only when he revs hard i can rev lightly and it gives off that sound..it sounds really nice but im hoping it aint a leak...it sounds similar to this but this max is supercharged and has nitrous....just listen to the whistling http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksTFVMKRwY0

 

I need some advice I get the code 1107 I read on what it is and Im still lost im not sure where exactly the tcc solenoid valve is or where to buy it from. Anyone ever get this?

 

Are you sure it isn't coming from the speakers? No, I'm not being a jerk, do you have bose?

 

That code means your trannsmission isn't shifting into 4th gear or the lock-up tourqe convertor isn't locking up, due to a mechanical failure, which may or may not require removal of the selenoid valves, valvebody, or entire trans and tc. There is a fairly complicated diagnosis procedure for this code in the fsm, which you can get at phatg20.net, but I don't know how smart you are and if you're good at this stuff.....

 

i do have bose and i didnt think u were being a jerk im a newbie so im learning my freind mentions somethin about a vacuum leak

 

Have you turned off the bose when the noise is occurring? You may have a leak but it's most likely the audio noise many people experience as I stated before.

 

it actually is because they said my timing belts are dry so i have to get new ones not as serious as i thought originally thanks for all of the input its been very helpful

 

VQ equipped Maximas do not even have timing belts. They have metal timing belts, aka timing chains.

 

the mechanic said the belts were dry and needed to be replaced i dont know too much about those kind of things but im going to get this done on saturday
maybe he meant the timing chain????im very confused now but i remember him pointing to something he said it was dryed out and thats why the engine is whistling can a timing chain dry out??? because im 100% sure he said timing belt maybe he just meant chain....

 

seems like he doesn't know what he's talking about. There is no timing belt. He probably meant your belts are squeaking but there are no timing belts.

 

yeah i went to my personal mechanic today he said i dont have to worry about timing belts bc my car comes with the chain he said the sound sounds like its coming from a pulley and its not serious at all but he was the only 1 working so he said call tomorrow and hell try to help...thanks for all the replys im learning a lot.

 

Do you have any desire to try this on your own?