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Old 11-26-2008 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by WhutsPoppin
Hi...I'm having a weird lighting problem. When using the low beam, the high beam lights come on and can only be turned off when I pull on the light control stick on the steering column ( have to drive at night pulling the light control stick so I dont blind anyone).

I've checked the bulbs and the light harness and both look fine. No melted harness (from what I can see). Any ideas?

Using regular 9004s, one Philips and one Sylvania!

Thanks!
they come on without you turning them on? might be a bad switch (stalk).
Old 11-26-2008 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by allensteiner21
1 and 4 reset the ecu before the trip and see if the codes come back. if it is running lean a 400 mile trip might not be a good idea before replacing o2 sensors.

2 then you'd have a code for the evap system not o2 sensor

3 no
I don't think I have the time or money to replace the O2 sensors before I leave...it's almost 4:30pm now, and I'm planning to leave tomorrow morning, around 7am. I guess I'll have to reset the ECU and drive around a little bit this afternoon, see what happens.

edit: If it makes a difference, I've driven about 85 miles since the light came on, and haven't noticed any new sounds or vibrations or anything.

Last edited by agmetal; 11-26-2008 at 01:30 PM.
Old 11-26-2008 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by allensteiner21
they come on without you turning them on? might be a bad switch (stalk).
Thanks allensteiner...the high beams do come on without me turning them on (I'm only turning on the low beam). After doing some more testing I did notice that depending on how I pressed the light control switch, the lighting varied (the driver's side high beam turned on first, then the passenger side if I pushed the light stick further.).

As you suggested, I should probably take a look at that stalk (light control switch?).

Thanks again!
Old 11-26-2008 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by agmetal
I don't think I have the time or money to replace the O2 sensors before I leave...it's almost 4:30pm now, and I'm planning to leave tomorrow morning, around 7am. I guess I'll have to reset the ECU and drive around a little bit this afternoon, see what happens.

edit: If it makes a difference, I've driven about 85 miles since the light came on, and haven't noticed any new sounds or vibrations or anything.

I reset the ECU and drove around for about 25 miles, including city and highway driving, and three stops (one to top off my tank for tomorrow's drive). The check engine light didn't come back on, and I didn't see, feel, hear, smell, or otherwise notice anything out of the ordinary, so hopefully it was just a fluke. I guess I'll find out tomorrow....200+ miles should be enough for the light to come back on if it's going to any time soon, right?
Old 11-26-2008 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by agmetal
I reset the ECU and drove around for about 25 miles, including city and highway driving, and three stops (one to top off my tank for tomorrow's drive). The check engine light didn't come back on, and I didn't see, feel, hear, smell, or otherwise notice anything out of the ordinary, so hopefully it was just a fluke. I guess I'll find out tomorrow....200+ miles should be enough for the light to come back on if it's going to any time soon, right?
yep.
Old 11-26-2008 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by allensteiner21
yep.
Cool, thanks. I'll post an update in a couple days probably.
Old 11-29-2008 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by agmetal
Cool, thanks. I'll post an update in a couple days probably.
Ok, so my check engine light came on again just under 64 miles into my trip (so a little under 90 miles after resetting the ECU). Checking the codes, it gave me 0706/P0170 again. I reset the ECU again, and the engine light has stayed off for about 215 miles...I am noticing that my gas mileage seems to be about 75% of what I'm used to, though. Does this sound like an O2 sensor issue?
Old 11-30-2008 | 02:25 PM
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Heating issue

Ok so I recently bought a 97 i30 ( i can only post in this noobie thread since im new or else id post it in the I30 section). Anyways, I had problems with the last owners installed AC delco starter and got that replaced and working fine but I've also had problems with my A/C and heating. My A/C was fixed originally and it worked for a week then cut out randomly one day. Ive fixed it again and it seems to work however the heating is either max heat no matter what temp I set it at and when i turn it off, it still blows either hot (if i set it above 19.5 degrees or cold when its below on my feet at medium power.

I'm new to I30's and am a rookie when it comes to car knowledge so any help is well appreciated. Maybe I'm crazy and this is normal
Old 11-30-2008 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by McLaren15
Ok so I recently bought a 97 i30 ( i can only post in this noobie thread since im new or else id post it in the I30 section). Anyways, I had problems with the last owners installed AC delco starter and got that replaced and working fine but I've also had problems with my A/C and heating. My A/C was fixed originally and it worked for a week then cut out randomly one day. Ive fixed it again and it seems to work however the heating is either max heat no matter what temp I set it at and when i turn it off, it still blows either hot (if i set it above 19.5 degrees or cold when its below on my feet at medium power.

I'm new to I30's and am a rookie when it comes to car knowledge so any help is well appreciated. Maybe I'm crazy and this is normal
When the A/C wasn't working how did you fix it?
Old 11-30-2008 | 03:03 PM
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I'll have to ask my mechanic, I don't have the knowledge yet enough to feel comfortable working alone on my car. I remember the first time was a quick fix intended to be a bandaid until the right part came in. He shaved something he said. Sorry for not knowing much i believe it was a replaced censor or computer or something since everything is digital.
Old 11-30-2008 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by McLaren15
I'll have to ask my mechanic, I don't have the knowledge yet enough to feel comfortable working alone on my car. I remember the first time was a quick fix intended to be a bandaid until the right part came in. He shaved something he said. Sorry for not knowing much i believe it was a replaced censor or computer or something since everything is digital.
LOL, ok. its probably something he fixed which is causing your problem. When you find out let us know
Old 11-30-2008 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by agmetal
Ok, so my check engine light came on again just under 64 miles into my trip (so a little under 90 miles after resetting the ECU). Checking the codes, it gave me 0706/P0170 again. I reset the ECU again, and the engine light has stayed off for about 215 miles...I am noticing that my gas mileage seems to be about 75% of what I'm used to, though. Does this sound like an O2 sensor issue?
that's what it sounds like. i'd recommend replacing your o2 sensors since the universals are pretty cheap. also you can check your knock sensor just to be sure - there's a write up in the stickies on how to do that.
Old 11-30-2008 | 03:35 PM
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1998 Maxima SE

I just had Tokico Blues shocks/struts put on at 161k on stock springs. I'm just trying to return the car to oem ride, but the rear end is extremely bouncy, too bouncy.The mechanic said it should not be that bouncy. I have checked others who have had the same problem with Tokico Blues. Before I invest in the KYB GR-2 is there anything else that may be over looked?
Old 11-30-2008 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tmh19sr1
1998 Maxima SE

I just had Tokico Blues shocks/struts put on at 161k on stock springs. I'm just trying to return the car to oem ride, but the rear end is extremely bouncy, too bouncy.The mechanic said it should not be that bouncy. I have checked others who have had the same problem with Tokico Blues. Before I invest in the KYB GR-2 is there anything else that may be over looked?
I think they are blown. If you are the original purchaser of the blues than you have a ridiculous warranty (60k i think) . get some replacements for free and throw them in
Old 11-30-2008 | 06:59 PM
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Rims

While I try and figure out my heating issue, I've been looking into getting new rims to replace my stock 97 I30 rims. Again I am new to the car world so laugh away :P

From what I know, its a 5 x 114.3 bolt pattern with a +40 offset and 66.1 hub dia. Does anyone have any suggestions on where I should look for rims? I love the Volk GTN rims but they are a little too expensive. When I'm looking I know the bolt pattern must be exactly the same and I'm assuming the the offset has to be the same? I'd like 17 or maybe 18's so what do i need to look for to ensure they will fit my I30?

Thanks

So I've been looking at DAI alloys and I think I found rims very similar to the Volk GT-N rims but I don't know if they will fit. Its called x-factor and the specific info is here (http://www.daialloys.com/pricelist.pdf) number 11. In short they are 17 x 7 with bolt pattern that says 10 x 100/114.3 with 42 offset. Will they fit on my 1997 I30?

Last edited by McLaren15; 11-30-2008 at 07:59 PM.
Old 11-30-2008 | 07:06 PM
  #2376  
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Originally Posted by allensteiner21
that's what it sounds like. i'd recommend replacing your o2 sensors since the universals are pretty cheap. also you can check your knock sensor just to be sure - there's a write up in the stickies on how to do that.
I read somewhere that there's a tendency on these cars for the rear brake calipers to get stuck with the brake partly applied. I recently had an issue with the ABS light coming on, on a very cold morning, and the car squealing and pulling to the right. After driving a few blocks, parking, turning off the car and then restarting it, the light went off. I'm wondering if my reduced gas mileage that I noticed yesterday could be somehow related to that as well.
Old 11-30-2008 | 07:54 PM
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FIRST POST EVER WOOT....cool site very informative ....anyway I got my 4gen for less than the cost of a HD tv lol and so far it has not given me any problems..


BUT my key less entry wont work, I have 2 so its not the battery and I think it might be the fuse but I'm unable to find it

...ALSO ,are the rear rocker panels not made anymore because mine are rusted and I REALLY wanna try and get some before this winter really rolls in but I heard they are not made .
Old 11-30-2008 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxterror
FIRST POST EVER WOOT....cool site very informative ....anyway I got my 4gen for less than the cost of a HD tv lol and so far it has not given me any problems..


BUT my key less entry wont work, I have 2 so its not the battery and I think it might be the fuse but I'm unable to find it
you might just need to reprogram the key fobs.

1.Get in & lock the doors
2.Insert the key into the ignition 6 times within 15 seconds
3.Hazard lights should flash
4.Put key back into the ignition & turn to Accessory
5.Press the master door lock (on drivers door arm rest) unlock/lock
6.Hit the lock button on the remote
7.Hazards should flash
8.Pull key out and open the drivers door and then close it
9.It should be set
Old 12-01-2008 | 06:00 AM
  #2379  
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Originally Posted by McLaren15
While I try and figure out my heating issue, I've been looking into getting new rims to replace my stock 97 I30 rims. Again I am new to the car world so laugh away :P

From what I know, its a 5 x 114.3 bolt pattern with a +40 offset and 66.1 hub dia. Does anyone have any suggestions on where I should look for rims? I love the Volk GTN rims but they are a little too expensive. When I'm looking I know the bolt pattern must be exactly the same and I'm assuming the the offset has to be the same? I'd like 17 or maybe 18's so what do i need to look for to ensure they will fit my I30?

Thanks

So I've been looking at DAI alloys and I think I found rims very similar to the Volk GT-N rims but I don't know if they will fit. Its called x-factor and the specific info is here (http://www.daialloys.com/pricelist.pdf) number 11. In short they are 17 x 7 with bolt pattern that says 10 x 100/114.3 with 42 offset. Will they fit on my 1997 I30?
they'll fit. if you're looking for something cheaper i have 17x8 konig monsoons for sale (+40 offset) with used rubber around them. pm me if interested.
Old 12-01-2008 | 08:55 AM
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Thanks alot, do u know my any chance what size of tires i would need? And do u have any suggestions on a decent type?
Old 12-01-2008 | 09:30 AM
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I have a question about e brake cables. I have a 98 Maxima GLE. I installed new calipers and pads on all four tires last year. I needed emergency brake cables then, but didn't have the time to do it (had a new baby, busy at work, etc.). Now I need to get an inspection, so I need the cables. Is the install difficult? How long does it take for someone with reasonable mechanical skills?
Old 12-01-2008 | 12:46 PM
  #2382  
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...ALSO ,are the rear rocker panels not made anymore because mine are rusted and I REALLY wanna try and get some before this winter really rolls in but I heard they are not made .[/QUOTE]

I jsut had mine put in a few months ago, MAACO. Rockers rear quarters and R fender for about $2K, painted and all. I don't have tools for this job, so hadda go there. The replacement panels are available, just not dealer parts. If you know someone in body work, you're laffin. Any body shop should get the parts for you, but they need to be welded in. The panel inside the wheel well for the rear quarters is probably gone (mine was rotted thru) so plan on that too. Lotsa stuff you can't see, but can gas you if it's not sealed. Out here -Hfx- bondo is not allowed in many areas of the car, so gotta weld.
Old 12-01-2008 | 05:13 PM
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Ok so I'm going to get some hyper-black x-factor DAI alloy 17x7 rims for my 97 I30, I just nee help with the exact tire size I will need. If anyone has any suggestions on tires that are decent that would be appreciated as well.
Old 12-01-2008 | 05:27 PM
  #2384  
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Originally Posted by allensteiner21
that's what it sounds like. i'd recommend replacing your o2 sensors since the universals are pretty cheap. also you can check your knock sensor just to be sure - there's a write up in the stickies on how to do that.
I sent you a PM as well, but in case anyone else sees this and has some thoughts, I'll post it here.

I changed the O2 sensor indicated by my original 0503/P0130 code, but this whole time, I've also been getting a 0705/P0170 code, which I thought referred to the engine running too lean. After running the car for a few minutes with the new O2 sensor installed, the CEL came back on, giving me the P0170 code again. A new Google search reveals that this is a fuel injection system issue. Where should I look first?
Old 12-01-2008 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by McLaren15
Ok so I'm going to get some hyper-black x-factor DAI alloy 17x7 rims for my 97 I30, I just nee help with the exact tire size I will need. If anyone has any suggestions on tires that are decent that would be appreciated as well.
www.2dayparts.com or www.tirerack.com

you can use 215, 225 or 235 wide tires, you'll just have to figure out the aspect ratio to stay close to the circumference - tire rack has a size calculator on their site.
Old 12-01-2008 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxterror
FIRST POST EVER WOOT....cool site very informative ....anyway I got my 4gen for less than the cost of a HD tv lol and so far it has not given me any problems..


BUT my key less entry wont work, I have 2 so its not the battery and I think it might be the fuse but I'm unable to find it
check out the stickies or do a search on how to program the key fob - might be simple as that.
Old 12-01-2008 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Pichy
I have a question about e brake cables. I have a 98 Maxima GLE. I installed new calipers and pads on all four tires last year. I needed emergency brake cables then, but didn't have the time to do it (had a new baby, busy at work, etc.). Now I need to get an inspection, so I need the cables. Is the install difficult? How long does it take for someone with reasonable mechanical skills?
shouldn't be a hard job even though i haven't done it myself. check out the fsm for that - there's a link in pmohr's sig.
Old 12-01-2008 | 08:18 PM
  #2388  
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Best way to smoke clear tails on a 97+???

Spray inside housing?:
black?
Charcoal?

spray behind clear/acrylic piece ?
Old 12-03-2008 | 10:16 PM
  #2389  
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I tried to replace my fuel filter over the weekend and couldn't get the hoses to move at all. is there any trick to getting these hoses that feed the fuel filter of? I tried searching and came up with nothing
Old 12-04-2008 | 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by JP_McCann
I tried to replace my fuel filter over the weekend and couldn't get the hoses to move at all. is there any trick to getting these hoses that feed the fuel filter of? I tried searching and came up with nothing
here's the trick - patience. they're a ***** to pull of if they're old. i cut my hands up pulling off the top one but the bottom one was the worst - about 15 minutes of prying off. try twisting/pulling/prying etc - whatever gets the job done. you can also cut and replce them.
Old 12-04-2008 | 05:55 AM
  #2391  
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I think I have a dragging rear brake. What's the best way to test for this? I'm assuming I should jack up the back end of the car, and see if one wheel spins more easily than the other, right? But is it safe to do that with the E brake disengaged?
Old 12-04-2008 | 12:29 PM
  #2392  
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Can any one give my a direct answer on determining if i have California emission

I need a Oxygen Sensor they have " With California emission and Without California emission I don't know which one to buy

thanks

Last edited by illegal error; 12-04-2008 at 12:34 PM.
Old 12-04-2008 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by agmetal
I think I have a dragging rear brake. What's the best way to test for this? I'm assuming I should jack up the back end of the car, and see if one wheel spins more easily than the other, right? But is it safe to do that with the E brake disengaged?
]

Yes, it's totally safe to do so. Just use wheel blocks on the front tires and park on level ground. You'll be good to go.

If you have a stuck caliper, the pads will not be worn evenly. Big clue right there.
Old 12-04-2008 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by illegal error
Can any one give my a direct answer on determining if i have California emission

I need a Oxygen Sensor they have " With California emission and Without California emission I don't know which one to buy

thanks
Here you go. Right out of the stickies.

http://forums.maxima.org/707273-post4.html
Old 12-04-2008 | 09:42 PM
  #2395  
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
Here you go. Right out of the stickies.

http://forums.maxima.org/707273-post4.html





thanks

thank god i have none cali
Old 12-04-2008 | 09:46 PM
  #2396  
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
]

Yes, it's totally safe to do so. Just use wheel blocks on the front tires and park on level ground. You'll be good to go.

If you have a stuck caliper, the pads will not be worn evenly. Big clue right there.

So, I did this today, and had the impression (due to my driver side rear wheel being more difficult to spin, and stopping more quickly than the passenger side) that I have a dragging brake and/or stuck caliper. I took it to a pro for a second opinion, and he agrees. I'm planning to have the rear calipers replaced this weekend. Oddly enough, my gas mileage seemed to be back to normal tonight, though...I've driven about 90 miles since filling up my tank, and my fuel guage isn't even down by 1/4 yet.
Old 12-07-2008 | 08:39 PM
  #2397  
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Originally Posted by JP_McCann
I tried to replace my fuel filter over the weekend and couldn't get the hoses to move at all. is there any trick to getting these hoses that feed the fuel filter of? I tried searching and came up with nothing
The instructions I used called for pulling a fuse from fuel pump and cranking until it wont start anymore. Even after doing that I had hard time with the hoses. Part of the reason is the pressure in the fuel system. So the trick I used is to drill a small hole in the filter. Once you drill the hole, it will release the pressure and removing the hoses should be a no big deal.
good luck,
Max
Old 12-08-2008 | 09:17 AM
  #2398  
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Originally Posted by maxud
The instructions I used called for pulling a fuse from fuel pump and cranking until it wont start anymore. Even after doing that I had hard time with the hoses. Part of the reason is the pressure in the fuel system. So the trick I used is to drill a small hole in the filter. Once you drill the hole, it will release the pressure and removing the hoses should be a no big deal.
good luck,
Max
Nah, there is very little pressure left in the system when the car is off. I've done it both ways, with pulling the fuse and relieving the pressure and not pulling the fuse etc. Same end result once I finally get the first hose off; very little gas comes out.

The trick to get the hoses off is to use heat. Use a blowdryer and heat up the hose(s) for a minute to make them soft and plyable. Then stick a screwdriver between at the base of the hose and use the filter and leverage, then push with the screwdriver and pull with your other hand. Should be a piece of cake to remove. Then, for the bottom hose, use a blowdryer again, then just twist and twist the fuel fiter until the rubber hose becomes unstuck from the filter's nipple....then the hose will slide right off. Overall, it's fairly easy to do. Just takes the outside the box thinking.
Old 12-08-2008 | 09:21 AM
  #2399  
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Originally Posted by maxud
The instructions I used called for pulling a fuse from fuel pump and cranking until it wont start anymore. Even after doing that I had hard time with the hoses. Part of the reason is the pressure in the fuel system. So the trick I used is to drill a small hole in the filter. Once you drill the hole, it will release the pressure and removing the hoses should be a no big deal.
good luck,
Max
and if there happens to be a spark while drilling...
if it was a pressure issue there'd be a "pop" when you pull the hose off. they're just old and don't get pulled off a lot - any old/tight hose will be stuck like that - remember that the connections are tight not to cause leaks.
Old 12-08-2008 | 11:41 AM
  #2400  
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Headlights

Sorry but I have another rookie question, will headlights and bumper lights that fit a maxima the same year as my Infinity I30 (1997) fit? I'm looking at these lights:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3710&viewitem=

If anyone has any comments on if these are decent price/quality and if they will fit please let me know. If they don't fit, is the best bet to get the Cefiro ones?


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