hi guys,
my cd player is having problem. everytime i insert a cd, it tells me "err", which i believe is error. would it help if i bought one of those cd lens cleaner? or what else could it be?

thanks in advance,
jhonny

 

Did you search?

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ow-method.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...r-problem.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...solutions.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ease-help.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...fications.html

...etc.

 

thanks for the link man. they really helped me

 

Hey guys, I'm new to this but can't wait to post new threads. Looking forward to chating here. Rob

 

why did my car fail smog test after I reset the ECU manually.I reset to erase the check engine light.It said could not complete OBD self test. the guy told me to drive it for a couple of days then bring it back. Does the ECU have to relearn everything or what?

 

When you clear the codes, you also reset all of the emissions readiness monitors.

Follow the drive cycle, try it again.

So you're trying to go through emissions while you're throwing codes? One of the reasons the ERMs are reset when you clear codes is to prevent people from doing exactly this.

Why don't you just fix the problem that's causing the codes?

 

11925G, 11935U, 11911G I beleive are the peices I do not have, as of right now i am just loosening the pulley pushing it down and tightening it.

 

In order:
11948-31U0A, $11.83 each at Courtesy

11934-31U03, $6.15 each at Courtesy

11939-31U00, $1.72 each at Courtesy

 

ok i NEED a peice i cant find at my local junk yard the middle double vent piece (where the clock and Emergency light switch is) The dude i bought my max from broke the right clip of the whole thing doesnt stay in the dasah and is getting to be an eye sore and an annoyance.

Anywhere i can buy a new one??

 

...the classifieds. eBay. car-part.com. Failing that, Nissan.

 

my passenger side wheel has a lose sound whenever it go through a hole or a bump i can hear clearly i think is the strut mount. my steering is lose too i think is the steering rack bearing(the plastic thing) are worn is it hard to replace it?

 

i know this is typical but i have an engine misfire on my hands.. i have spend 1000+ over trying to fix this problem to no avail, i read that changing the coils is typical for a 4th gen maxima which i have done but it still misfires in that same clyinder and i have already checked the coils. what are my other possiblities? EGR? throttle body? please help this no0b

 

Exactly which cylinder?

Exactly what diagnostics have you done?

What codes?

Lots more detail is required here. List it out in a clear and concise manner.

 

The misfire is in clyinder number 2.

I have done the following:

replaced knock sensor ( shouldn't have)
tested coils for voltage.
Change all sparkplugs.
Replace all 6 coils.
Reset cel light.
I even swaped the coil from #2 with #4 to test.

Cel lights says knocksensor, random misfire , misfire clyinder# 2.

What are gonna be the next steps to eliminate the problem?

 

So you went through all of the diagnostics for the ignition system, but did you touch the fuel system at all? Ohm out the injector, watch the spray pattern, check for leaks, nothing?

 

Haven't got there yet so is the injectors next ? And would it cause that certain clyinder to misfire? Amazing.. Is there a link to check it out and what's a good cheap code reader run about? Thanks a bunch

 

You replaced the KS and replaced all of the coils, before checking out the injectors?

Yes, if the injector for cylinder 2 was bad/leaking/whatever, that would cause that cylinder to misfire.

Just ohm them out, you're looking for 10-14 ohms. Also want to make sure it's getting power, and that it's clicking when the engine is running.

 

hey guys im new here and i just bought a 96 5spd tonight, theres a horrible smell when im driving, and it feels like the clutch is gone, it drive but as soon as i push on the gas the revs go up and the smell gets worse. Theres nothing else it could be correct? im just worried that it might be something more serious. thanks.

 

Yes, you need a clutch.

 

do you know what that will usually set you back?

 

No.

It depends on what clutch you get. Where you get it. How much it costs. How much shipping costs. Who you have install it. How much they charge per hour. How many hours they charge. How much they charge for shop supplies. How much they charge for disposal fees.

...etc.

Do your own research, that's the only way you'll get an accurate quote.

 

thanks for the quick reply

 

I bought my first Maxima a couple days ago! 96 GLE. But honestly I am kicking myself. I test drove two 96's. I think one was an SE (could have been GXE, I don't know.) It was silver-ish with dark gray interior, cloth seats, power windows and locks, but no remote keyless.
The one I bought was a maroon GLE with tan leather interior, sun roof, etc.
The first one had tons of leaks and needed more repairs, so I went with the maroon GLE. But now that I have been driving it for a couple days, I hate the leather seats and it does not feel nearly as sporty and peppy as the SE. It's not just the engine, it's also just the way I feel sitting in it. And the styling and color makes me feel like a grandpa. lol
I should have bought the SE and put in the money for repairs. What was I thinking?! It just felt better. I wouldn't think it would feel so much different, but the GLE really feels more boaty than the first one I drove...

So here is my question:
What are some basic things I could change that would help my GLE feel more sporty? (I realize there are a bazillion threads on all the mods and upgrades, but I want to get a feel for the most basic things I should start with.)

And one more question:
Will it be worth the effort to mod and upgrade my grandpa-ish GLE to make it more sporty, or should I just sell it and get a different style?

Thanks for your thoughts.
Andy

PS I paid $2100 for the GLE. Engine checked out good by my mechanic. Good overall condition. The tranny sticks in higher gears a little sometimes.
------
** Update: Okay, so now I see that my post title is rather stupid. The SE is the Sport Edition... sigh... Well I would still appreciate any advice. **

 

SE's have sportier suspension than GXE's and GLE's. You can get SE suspension for starters, or some aftermarket springs/shocks.....or coilovers too. If the car you passed up had white gauges, it was definitely an SE. Power wise, all models are the same.

Second question is up to you...only you can answer that.

 

You say you realize that there are a 'bazillion' threads on it, so why have you not read through them? This question has been asked countless times in this thread alone, much less all over the 4th gen forum. You'll get lot more insight if you go through and start reading them.

 

I'm planning on removing and refinishing my oil pan over the weekend. I just want to make sure I've got everything straight before I start, so I have a few questions.

1 paint! Should I buy high heat enamel stuff or will plain Tremclad be suitable? Should I try to put lots and lots on to keep it protected from rocks, etc?

2 Is there a specific way to apply rtv to the pan? or will it give generic directions on the box?

 

1. There appear to be as many versions of Tremclad as there are Rustoleum (Tremclad's American cousin, it would appear). There's heat-resistant types, regular primer, etc. Which type do you have/plan to use? You might as well put the heat resistant paint on there, just to eliminate having to do it again if it starts flaking off.
2. 

FWIW if you're into getting inexpensive very useful tools to add to the collection, I'd highly suggest getting one of these:


On the left in the second image. Not necessarily that brand, that's just what I have. Generally under $20, and they make applying RTV so much easier, and less messy.

That, or the RTV in a can is pretty cool, too.

 

Hi my name is Delta and i was having trouble finding bulb holders or even any "57" bulbs for the map light in my 4th gen 97 nissan maxima. I'm sorry if this isn't worth posting but i felt this was the only place to ask for help. I got my maxima when it was in used condition. when i opened the map lights to change them they fell out as if they were not even attached. people tell me those 57 bulbs are discontinued. Even worse i can't find the sockets or the screws to even hold the sockets. I'm just a noob who doesn't want tot ear apart his beautiful car just to change a simple lightbulb. any help would be greatly appreciated thank you.

 

I don't know where you are from, but you can check local junkyards for the whole unit itself. Or go to the classifieds and look for Teaner. He has several for sale if I'm not mistaken.

 

I bought my map light bulbs at pep boys last weekend. 2 to a pack. They don't seem to last too long though. Left it on by mistake...

 

Hi,
I am new to the board having recently bought a 95 Maxima Calif Emissions but appreciate the wealth of info and experience that is available here.
In trying to figure out my 1008 code (P0443) I noticed a portion of the sticky on 1008 seems contrary to what the 95 EC service manual says.
Also, sticky for 1008 incorrectly says CPVCSV connector is 2 pin whereas Pg 242 of EC shows CPVCSV connector to be actually a 6-pin for 1008.

Quote from Sticky
"With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve"

Quote from Pg243 of EC section of 95 Service Manual
5. Turn ignition switch ON and OFF and ensure the canister purge control valve shaft smoothly moved forward and backward according to the ignition switch position ...

Personal observations:
My valve checks out fine with ohmmeter and does move back and forth with ignition as in EC. I can blow air when car is off or valve is removed. Airflow is blocked when ignition is on.

What are your observations as to the correct way the CPVCSV valve operates with engine off adn with engine on.
Also, what is the right way to test the Canister Purge Cut valve?

Thanks
Mahmoud

 

I have searched these forums and I can't find anything on this particular issue. If I have missed a post please forgive me.

My 96 Automatic GLE is "sticking" for several seconds at higher RPMs before shifting.
As I accelerate the RPMs will stay at 6000 or 7000 for several seconds before shifting. Sometimes it will stay there until I let off the gas.

So I had the transmission serviced today. (Replaced filter, drained and filled.) The mechanic said the oil didn't look too bad, and there wasn't any metal debris. But it is still acting exactly the same.

What could be causing this? I hope I don't need a tranny rebuild.
Thanks

 

My english is a little bad but i will try my best, im from Puerto Rico,my buddy have a 95 maxima, the starter gone bad and we changed with a new one,the car start normally and after that never start again.The car cranks normally but it not have spark at the coils.We already changed the ckps(REF),ckps (POS), the cps(camshaft position sensor),we already probe 3 computers on the car,change the 6 coils with used coils from a running car and still not have spark. As for the fuel, is delivering cause the spark plugs get the tip wet and you can smell the fuel when cranks.

As for the circuit i already check the coils connectors. the connectors have 3 cables, the red(+12v, present),the black one, ground(present), and on the other one i put a tester light on it and crank the car and the light do not blink. As for the ckps(REF)has two cables, white one(has .005 volts)and the black one have ground. For the other ckps(POS)have 3 cables,one whith 12v,black have ground and the white have .005 volt. i check the condenser taped on the wiring harness and have 12v whith the ignition on and have ground. I dont think there is a open circuit on ECCS cause the sensors have the .005 volt signal.

I do not know what to do next. all im thinking is for a open circuit between the computer and the coils. If anyone can help me it will be aprecciated,thank you.

 

Actually i live down the street from a junk yard called Ecology auto parts. maybe i can ask them if they got it. Plus i've also seen the map light housing on ebay as well. But there's 1 problem. I don't have any instructions on how to remove the map light housing and change it. Is there anyone who has instructions? Or maybe a visual step by step way of changing it? i don't wanna mess up my roof.

 

Yes i bought those as well but they were very dim and didn't match with the previous ones. the pepboys had 12v by 3w. My originals were 12v by 10w. hopefully the LED bulbs i just purchased will give me more light than i thought i could use with less power consumption.

 

i was previously getting an ses 0201 and 0603 so i swapped the coil from cyl 6 into cyl 4 to test if it was the coil for sure. ses light does not come back. i had already ordered a coil from ebay so i then swapped with the one i thought was problematic.

today as soon as i start the car i get 0201. clear it and then go for a ride. nothing. later i proceed to head out again and get 0201 when i start the car, but no code for which cylinder is misfiring.

any input is welcome.

thanks

 

Hi Pmohr, I have a quick question. I just got my car back and the mechanic said that he tried to do a recharge for my A/C but there was a dime sized leak and all the liquid came out.

And he hung up before I could ask for a specific spot and I was wondering if its repairable. Because it seems like he was talking about a hose or something and if its leaking could I possibly seal it up with some tape, or possibly some plaster, or fiberglass. Also I tried searching and I couldn't find anything about people fixing leaks on the A/C themselves, or a diagram of the entire A/C system.

I honestly do not even know where the compressor or valve system is on my car and so I am completely clueless about where a leak could happen or where to start looking. Thankyou for your time!

 

master pmohr,anyone?...i don't know if i am missing something.thanks

 

Did you check the spark plugs? The wires/harness to your coil packs my be failing too, might have to check the continuity on the wires.

 

I was wondering if anyone can help me diagnose this problem I have been reading posts for a week now and found the members here to be very knowledgeable about our kinds of cars.

When my 97 max is stopped or under 2000 rpm, it is jerky or starts tugging intermitantly when the engine is up to temp, usually within f2 minutes of driving. The firrst two minutes are ok, after that it jerks every couple seconds, and the rpm needle dips slightly while the jerk happens. I have been reading posts for days and thought it might be the intake system messing up the idle it the IACV. Has this happened to anyone else. How can I fix or diagnose it. Also, due to the grat posts on VBXmaxima or whatever its called, i used it to learn how to interpret the CEL codes it kept on throwing. First it threw an EGR, front O2 sensor, and air temp sensor. Then 2 days later it threw AT speed to ECU code, and one other i forgot what it was now. I am a total Noob at this please help!!! my email is leibovit@yahoo.com i am in the process of becoming a total gearhead just to fix this problem HELP!!!!!!!!!