NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,382
From: Maryland
Hi. New to the forum. I've been shopping hard for a cheap daily driver and found a Maxima for sale locally from a private party and wanted to get feedback on price. It's a 97 SE 5sp. with Bose, auto climate, heated leather, dual power seats, and sunroof. Black on black. The car has 212K miles on it. The guy is the 2nd owner and has owned it about a year. The guy is a nut about the car and has done a ton of work to it. The first owner was an engineer for an auto supplier (here in sunny Detroit) and had also done a lot of work. The guy has a binder with every receipt and every maintenance item he's done to it. From what I can remember, here's the rundown:
Before the current owner bought it, the original owner had:
- replaced the clutch with a higher performance clutch (not sure what brand)
- timing chain tensioner and apparently the chain itself was replaced
- All four struts were replaced "a few years ago" with new springs and it was lowered an inch.
The current owner has:
- replaced rear rotors and pads, one rear caliper, front pads
- replaced every fluid, except the power steering.
- new belts
- new tires (on the original 16" rims)
- replaced a front fender for some rust
- replaced both front axles
- replaced a few front end suspension components. He fitted the new one with grease fittings and greases them with every oil change.
- he put in a new radiator support that had rusted. In addition to the support, the guy's dad is a metal fabricator so they welded custom reinforcements to the radiator support along the bottom. It looks like it will last longer than the rest of the car.
- put in an OEM O2 sensor
- documented every oil change
- there's a few other odds and ends I can't quite remember.
Problems the car:
- AC needs to be evacuated and recharged. He had to take the condenser off when he did the radiator support a couple of months ago.
- Some rust on the bottom of the front fender that he didn't replace.
- the antenna is gone, broken off at the base
- the clips that hold the cup holder assembly broke and the cup holder was loose
- overall, the paint was just ok, quite a few stone chips in the hood and a few small rust spots coming through the paint here and there.
Other than that, the car ran great. Clutch is a little stiff, but it shifted smooth and the engine sounded sweet. All the power accessories work.
So, Maxima lovers, after that laundry list, the question is: is this a $3000 car? He was asking $3200 firm, but wouldn't budge past $3000. He also said he would take off the straight pipe and put the muffler back on (it was a little too loud for me).
What do you think?
Before the current owner bought it, the original owner had:
- replaced the clutch with a higher performance clutch (not sure what brand)
- timing chain tensioner and apparently the chain itself was replaced
- All four struts were replaced "a few years ago" with new springs and it was lowered an inch.
The current owner has:
- replaced rear rotors and pads, one rear caliper, front pads
- replaced every fluid, except the power steering.
- new belts
- new tires (on the original 16" rims)
- replaced a front fender for some rust
- replaced both front axles
- replaced a few front end suspension components. He fitted the new one with grease fittings and greases them with every oil change.
- he put in a new radiator support that had rusted. In addition to the support, the guy's dad is a metal fabricator so they welded custom reinforcements to the radiator support along the bottom. It looks like it will last longer than the rest of the car.
- put in an OEM O2 sensor
- documented every oil change
- there's a few other odds and ends I can't quite remember.
Problems the car:
- AC needs to be evacuated and recharged. He had to take the condenser off when he did the radiator support a couple of months ago.
- Some rust on the bottom of the front fender that he didn't replace.
- the antenna is gone, broken off at the base
- the clips that hold the cup holder assembly broke and the cup holder was loose
- overall, the paint was just ok, quite a few stone chips in the hood and a few small rust spots coming through the paint here and there.
Other than that, the car ran great. Clutch is a little stiff, but it shifted smooth and the engine sounded sweet. All the power accessories work.
So, Maxima lovers, after that laundry list, the question is: is this a $3000 car? He was asking $3200 firm, but wouldn't budge past $3000. He also said he would take off the straight pipe and put the muffler back on (it was a little too loud for me).
What do you think?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1
From: Lodi California
96 runs rough and stalls out at idle engine surges at highway speed, No codes and is extremely noticeable when outside temp is above 85deg. I had thought it might be a O2 sensor but looking through the forums here it seems like I should have a code if it was. Any help would be great? if this is not the this is not the proper place to ask help with that too. I just noticed another issue on my way home today, I have a noticeable dead spot when I press the throttle. here is the odd part no matter weather the RPM's are at 800 or 1700 as soon as I press the pedal it hesitates for the next 300-500 RPM's and then it is responsive again. I need some serious help.
Last edited by NorCal Max; Aug 13, 2009 at 07:47 PM.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 10
From: San Diego
Rear timing chain case R&R
Hi Guys,
Here's my first post. I've read through many of the threads but couldn't find what I was looking for so I'll ask. During a recent water pump R&R I sheared a bolt off and tried to easy out it and ended up spliting the rear timing chain case next to the bolt hole. (don't ask!)
. I found a used rear case and have a '97 Nissan shop manual. My question(s) to anyone who may have removed the rear timing chain case before, after reading the proceedure many times:
1. Does the aluminum oil pan really have to come off?
2. Does the manifold collector and intake mainfold really have to come off?
3. Do all the O-ring/seals really need to be replaced? If so, where's the best/least costly source for 4th gen O-rings/seals?
Any thoughts on doing the job in the car vs. taking the engine out to do this? I would rather leave the engine in and deal with the cramped quarters.
Thanks much.
Here's my first post. I've read through many of the threads but couldn't find what I was looking for so I'll ask. During a recent water pump R&R I sheared a bolt off and tried to easy out it and ended up spliting the rear timing chain case next to the bolt hole. (don't ask!)
. I found a used rear case and have a '97 Nissan shop manual. My question(s) to anyone who may have removed the rear timing chain case before, after reading the proceedure many times:1. Does the aluminum oil pan really have to come off?
2. Does the manifold collector and intake mainfold really have to come off?
3. Do all the O-ring/seals really need to be replaced? If so, where's the best/least costly source for 4th gen O-rings/seals?
Any thoughts on doing the job in the car vs. taking the engine out to do this? I would rather leave the engine in and deal with the cramped quarters.
Thanks much.
Hi Guys,
Here's my first post. I've read through many of the threads but couldn't find what I was looking for so I'll ask. During a recent water pump R&R I sheared a bolt off and tried to easy out it and ended up spliting the rear timing chain case next to the bolt hole. (don't ask!). I found a used rear case and have a '97 Nissan shop manual. My question(s) to anyone who may have removed the rear timing chain case before, after reading the proceedure many times:
1. Does the aluminum oil pan really have to come off?
2. Does the manifold collector and intake mainfold really have to come off?
3. Do all the O-ring/seals really need to be replaced? If so, where's the best/least costly source for 4th gen O-rings/seals?
Any thoughts on doing the job in the car vs. taking the engine out to do this? I would rather leave the engine in and deal with the cramped quarters.
Thanks much.
Here's my first post. I've read through many of the threads but couldn't find what I was looking for so I'll ask. During a recent water pump R&R I sheared a bolt off and tried to easy out it and ended up spliting the rear timing chain case next to the bolt hole. (don't ask!)
. I found a used rear case and have a '97 Nissan shop manual. My question(s) to anyone who may have removed the rear timing chain case before, after reading the proceedure many times:1. Does the aluminum oil pan really have to come off?
2. Does the manifold collector and intake mainfold really have to come off?
3. Do all the O-ring/seals really need to be replaced? If so, where's the best/least costly source for 4th gen O-rings/seals?
Any thoughts on doing the job in the car vs. taking the engine out to do this? I would rather leave the engine in and deal with the cramped quarters.
Thanks much.
- The upper oil pan should come off, yes. To do the job properly and avoid any possibly oil leaks, anyway.
- You need to hold the cams in place while removing the cam gear bolts, so yes, you must remove the UIM and rear valve cover. Don't rely on the timing chain to hold it in place for you.
- Well the question is, would you rather spend another $25 now, or have to tear it all apart again in the future when it starts leaking because you didn't replace seals that are clearly defined in the manual to be replaced every time? Your choice, really.
Best place is from the dealer, of course.
O-rings (2):
15066-31U02, $4.36 each at Courtesy
Front cover lower seal:
11121-31U00, $9.87 each at Courtesy
RMS retainer seal:
11121-31U10, $9.87 each at Courtesy
Probably be cheapest to get them from Dave B, but then there'll be shipping. Before you ask who/what/where he is, search.
It's up to you, personally I would never even consider pulling the engine just to install a timing cover. If you're quick, you could probably get it done in about the same time either way, though. Just less cost involved in leaving it in place.
You can see here where the upper pan seals to the rear cover:
And here where it seals to the front cover:
And have you not looked in the classifieds? There's one on the first page. Obviously this isn't a direct bolt on for the DE-K, I hope you know.
Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 133
From: Wappingers Falls, NY
I have a 98 and i miss the variable intake power at higher rpms that i had in my 01...i just got the 98 so im trying to learn about the manifold swap...i dont know much about it but i heard if i get an 01 mevi i need a ecu also and i heard getting a new ecu can be avoided if i get the cefiro one
I have a 98 and i miss the variable intake power at higher rpms that i had in my 01...i just got the 98 so im trying to learn about the manifold swap...i dont know much about it but i heard if i get an 01 mevi i need a ecu also and i heard getting a new ecu can be avoided if i get the cefiro one
An '01 MEVI? Do what? Assuming you're referring to USDM vehicles, the Maxima never had a MEVI. Are you referring to the 00VI?
What do you mean a new ECU? Where did you 'hear' this?
Have you done any research? There are hundreds of threads about the 00VI, what you need, what you don't, how to make it work. Search.
Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 133
From: Wappingers Falls, NY
Ah, you've neglected to update your profile, why I was confused. It says you've still got an AE.
An '01 MEVI? Do what? Assuming you're referring to USDM vehicles, the Maxima never had a MEVI. Are you referring to the 00VI?
What do you mean a new ECU? Where did you 'hear' this?
Have you done any research? There are hundreds of threads about the 00VI, what you need, what you don't, how to make it work. Search.
An '01 MEVI? Do what? Assuming you're referring to USDM vehicles, the Maxima never had a MEVI. Are you referring to the 00VI?
What do you mean a new ECU? Where did you 'hear' this?
Have you done any research? There are hundreds of threads about the 00VI, what you need, what you don't, how to make it work. Search.
yea sorry bout that i just updated my profile lol but i guess an 00VI manifold ive only heard them reffered to as MEVI basically what im looking for is a variable intake manifold that i can put on my 98 without having to get a new ECU, ive done some research but like i said the ppl who put the MEVI on their 4th gens said they put new ECUs on as well cause the ECU is what makes the intake manifold open up and 5grand but i read that the cerfiro one operates with vacume pressure instead of the ECU if you can steer me in the right direction thatd be awesome...thanks
You do NOT need a new ECU for any new intake manifold you get. Will an aftermarket ECU help? Sure. Is it necessary? ...no.
There's the 00VI, and the MEVI (well there's the PFVI too, but no one's done that).
Show me one post where someone HAD to use a new ECU to use an 00VI/MEVI...no one has, because you don't.
You think the MEVI will just open up by itself somehow? Either way you'll still need an RPM switch, for either manifold.
You really need to search. The stickies in AM have loads of information about the 00VI and MEVI, as well as showing why and how the 00VI is superior.
Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 133
From: Wappingers Falls, NY
Okay, one more time.
You do NOT need a new ECU for any new intake manifold you get. Will an aftermarket ECU help? Sure. Is it necessary? ...no.
There's the 00VI, and the MEVI (well there's the PFVI too, but no one's done that).
Show me one post where someone HAD to use a new ECU to use an 00VI/MEVI...no one has, because you don't.
You think the MEVI will just open up by itself somehow? Either way you'll still need an RPM switch, for either manifold.
You really need to search. The stickies in AM have loads of information about the 00VI and MEVI, as well as showing why and how the 00VI is superior.
You do NOT need a new ECU for any new intake manifold you get. Will an aftermarket ECU help? Sure. Is it necessary? ...no.
There's the 00VI, and the MEVI (well there's the PFVI too, but no one's done that).
Show me one post where someone HAD to use a new ECU to use an 00VI/MEVI...no one has, because you don't.
You think the MEVI will just open up by itself somehow? Either way you'll still need an RPM switch, for either manifold.
You really need to search. The stickies in AM have loads of information about the 00VI and MEVI, as well as showing why and how the 00VI is superior.
Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 133
From: Wappingers Falls, NY
Okay, one more time.
You do NOT need a new ECU for any new intake manifold you get. Will an aftermarket ECU help? Sure. Is it necessary? ...no.
There's the 00VI, and the MEVI (well there's the PFVI too, but no one's done that).
Show me one post where someone HAD to use a new ECU to use an 00VI/MEVI...no one has, because you don't.
You think the MEVI will just open up by itself somehow? Either way you'll still need an RPM switch, for either manifold.
You really need to search. The stickies in AM have loads of information about the 00VI and MEVI, as well as showing why and how the 00VI is superior.
You do NOT need a new ECU for any new intake manifold you get. Will an aftermarket ECU help? Sure. Is it necessary? ...no.
There's the 00VI, and the MEVI (well there's the PFVI too, but no one's done that).
Show me one post where someone HAD to use a new ECU to use an 00VI/MEVI...no one has, because you don't.
You think the MEVI will just open up by itself somehow? Either way you'll still need an RPM switch, for either manifold.
You really need to search. The stickies in AM have loads of information about the 00VI and MEVI, as well as showing why and how the 00VI is superior.
It's not just one link for all of the information on the 00VI.
Did you not search? Hell, if you just search '00VI', it maxes out the search results.
Look at the stickies here http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor-61/
If neither of those two turns up anything...then don't bother, because honestly you won't be able to install it.
Did you not search? Hell, if you just search '00VI', it maxes out the search results.
Look at the stickies here http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor-61/
If neither of those two turns up anything...then don't bother, because honestly you won't be able to install it.
Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 133
From: Wappingers Falls, NY
It's not just one link for all of the information on the 00VI.
Did you not search? Hell, if you just search '00VI', it maxes out the search results.
Look at the stickies here http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor-61/
If neither of those two turns up anything...then don't bother, because honestly you won't be able to install it.
Did you not search? Hell, if you just search '00VI', it maxes out the search results.
Look at the stickies here http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor-61/
If neither of those two turns up anything...then don't bother, because honestly you won't be able to install it.
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 80
Hey All,
Hope y'all can help. My 97 auto SEL has been having starting problems and I've researched this forum for answers but need to narrow things down because no one's car behaves alike, IMHO.
Anyway, nowadays starting the car anytime is a pain. Takes 4-5 minutes of key cycling to eventually get the engine to turn/fire. I used to think it was ambient temperature related, but now cold/warm weather, drive then restart -- the difficult starting happens in all scenarios.
1. Battery, starter/alternator, wiring still good and strong
2. Ignition switch only 1-year old
3. Only a click comes from the engine bay when trying to start the car.
4. When the engine does fire up, I'd have to pump the throttle rapidly or else it'll just stall.
3. I'm being led to be believe that it might be the fuel pump, but two things I'm not sure about:
- I should be able to hear the pump coming from under the back seat (assuming I'm alone and there's no one to help listen from under the car) when trying to start/turn the key, but am not sure how audible it should be. Basically right now, I don't hear anything. If the pump is the culprit, I shouldn't be able to drive the car at all, or the car should be stuttering occassionally while driving, right?
Hope y'all can help. My 97 auto SEL has been having starting problems and I've researched this forum for answers but need to narrow things down because no one's car behaves alike, IMHO.
Anyway, nowadays starting the car anytime is a pain. Takes 4-5 minutes of key cycling to eventually get the engine to turn/fire. I used to think it was ambient temperature related, but now cold/warm weather, drive then restart -- the difficult starting happens in all scenarios.
1. Battery, starter/alternator, wiring still good and strong
2. Ignition switch only 1-year old
3. Only a click comes from the engine bay when trying to start the car.
4. When the engine does fire up, I'd have to pump the throttle rapidly or else it'll just stall.
3. I'm being led to be believe that it might be the fuel pump, but two things I'm not sure about:
- I should be able to hear the pump coming from under the back seat (assuming I'm alone and there's no one to help listen from under the car) when trying to start/turn the key, but am not sure how audible it should be. Basically right now, I don't hear anything. If the pump is the culprit, I shouldn't be able to drive the car at all, or the car should be stuttering occassionally while driving, right?
Last edited by aaronleong; Aug 14, 2009 at 07:03 AM.
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 80
Just to add on to what I posted:
New spark plugs too.
New air filter.
New 02 sensor.
No CEL.
MAF cleaned.
- I wonder if I should change the fuel pressure regulator first before tackling anything else, i.e. fuel pump. Or the fuel filter. Any thoughts?
- I don't have puff of smoke upon starting up, so that oughta rule out the injectors, right?
New spark plugs too.
New air filter.
New 02 sensor.
No CEL.
MAF cleaned.
- I wonder if I should change the fuel pressure regulator first before tackling anything else, i.e. fuel pump. Or the fuel filter. Any thoughts?
- I don't have puff of smoke upon starting up, so that oughta rule out the injectors, right?
Last edited by aaronleong; Aug 14, 2009 at 07:00 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 24
From: Ohio
Extra hose after starter replacement
My Maxima stranded me for the 1st time in 187,000 miles... Turned out to be a bad starter. Using instructions on this forum I removed/replace the starter and the car starts better it has in a long time.
While putting everything back together, I still have 1 hose that I don't know where it attaches. It looks to be about 3/8" to 1/2" black rubber hose that comes up beside the right side of the engine. I thought maybe it would attach to the airbox but can not find an empty port. There is a thicker hose going from the block to the throttle body that has a hose holder attached to it that it might go into but I'm just not sure where to connect it.
I have several pics that I would like to share but am unable to post them since I've been I lurker instead of a poster.
Any thoughts or help is much appreciated.
While putting everything back together, I still have 1 hose that I don't know where it attaches. It looks to be about 3/8" to 1/2" black rubber hose that comes up beside the right side of the engine. I thought maybe it would attach to the airbox but can not find an empty port. There is a thicker hose going from the block to the throttle body that has a hose holder attached to it that it might go into but I'm just not sure where to connect it.
I have several pics that I would like to share but am unable to post them since I've been I lurker instead of a poster.
Any thoughts or help is much appreciated.
Hey All,
Hope y'all can help. My 97 auto SEL has been having starting problems and I've researched this forum for answers but need to narrow things down because no one's car behaves alike, IMHO.
Anyway, nowadays starting the car anytime is a pain. Takes 4-5 minutes of key cycling to eventually get the engine to turn/fire. I used to think it was ambient temperature related, but now cold/warm weather, drive then restart -- the difficult starting happens in all scenarios.
1. Battery, starter/alternator, wiring still good and strong
2. Ignition switch only 1-year old
3. Only a click comes from the engine bay when trying to start the car.
4. When the engine does fire up, I'd have to pump the throttle rapidly or else it'll just stall.
3. I'm being led to be believe that it might be the fuel pump, but two things I'm not sure about:
- I should be able to hear the pump coming from under the back seat (assuming I'm alone and there's no one to help listen from under the car) when trying to start/turn the key, but am not sure how audible it should be. Basically right now, I don't hear anything. If the pump is the culprit, I shouldn't be able to drive the car at all, or the car should be stuttering occassionally while driving, right?
Hope y'all can help. My 97 auto SEL has been having starting problems and I've researched this forum for answers but need to narrow things down because no one's car behaves alike, IMHO.
Anyway, nowadays starting the car anytime is a pain. Takes 4-5 minutes of key cycling to eventually get the engine to turn/fire. I used to think it was ambient temperature related, but now cold/warm weather, drive then restart -- the difficult starting happens in all scenarios.
1. Battery, starter/alternator, wiring still good and strong
2. Ignition switch only 1-year old
3. Only a click comes from the engine bay when trying to start the car.
4. When the engine does fire up, I'd have to pump the throttle rapidly or else it'll just stall.
3. I'm being led to be believe that it might be the fuel pump, but two things I'm not sure about:
- I should be able to hear the pump coming from under the back seat (assuming I'm alone and there's no one to help listen from under the car) when trying to start/turn the key, but am not sure how audible it should be. Basically right now, I don't hear anything. If the pump is the culprit, I shouldn't be able to drive the car at all, or the car should be stuttering occassionally while driving, right?
However a single click coming from the engine bay is in no way indicative of a fuel pump; you could rip of out of the tank and smash it to bits, the car should still crank.
Have you cleaned the TB/IACV? Checked the ECTS? Both of those can cause startup idle issues.
For the click, have you had your starter tested? If replaced, was it new, or reman? Also check the wiring and all connections, make sure the battery connections are tight and corrosion free, etc.
My Maxima stranded me for the 1st time in 187,000 miles... Turned out to be a bad starter. Using instructions on this forum I removed/replace the starter and the car starts better it has in a long time.
While putting everything back together, I still have 1 hose that I don't know where it attaches. It looks to be about 3/8" to 1/2" black rubber hose that comes up beside the right side of the engine. I thought maybe it would attach to the airbox but can not find an empty port. There is a thicker hose going from the block to the throttle body that has a hose holder attached to it that it might go into but I'm just not sure where to connect it.
I have several pics that I would like to share but am unable to post them since I've been I lurker instead of a poster.
Any thoughts or help is much appreciated.
While putting everything back together, I still have 1 hose that I don't know where it attaches. It looks to be about 3/8" to 1/2" black rubber hose that comes up beside the right side of the engine. I thought maybe it would attach to the airbox but can not find an empty port. There is a thicker hose going from the block to the throttle body that has a hose holder attached to it that it might go into but I'm just not sure where to connect it.
I have several pics that I would like to share but am unable to post them since I've been I lurker instead of a poster.
Any thoughts or help is much appreciated.
Does it have a curved end on it? If so, it's just the trans breather hose, doesn't go anywhere.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 24
From: Ohio
pmohr-
Thanks for your help.
I guess I can post the pics here. I just assumed when it said that I can not post attchements that included pics. Glad I was wrong.
So I guess you just leave that hose sitting there not hooked to anything?
Are those your youtube videos? They are very helpful.
Thanks for your help.
I guess I can post the pics here. I just assumed when it said that I can not post attchements that included pics. Glad I was wrong.
So I guess you just leave that hose sitting there not hooked to anything?
Are those your youtube videos? They are very helpful.
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 80
If the pump were slowly failing, it could show symptoms sporadically as you've seen.
However a single click coming from the engine bay is in no way indicative of a fuel pump; you could rip of out of the tank and smash it to bits, the car should still crank.
Have you cleaned the TB/IACV? Checked the ECTS? Both of those can cause startup idle issues.
For the click, have you had your starter tested? If replaced, was it new, or reman? Also check the wiring and all connections, make sure the battery connections are tight and corrosion free, etc.
However a single click coming from the engine bay is in no way indicative of a fuel pump; you could rip of out of the tank and smash it to bits, the car should still crank.
Have you cleaned the TB/IACV? Checked the ECTS? Both of those can cause startup idle issues.
For the click, have you had your starter tested? If replaced, was it new, or reman? Also check the wiring and all connections, make sure the battery connections are tight and corrosion free, etc.
What factor would the Coolant Temp Sensor play in this instance? Does it go south often on this car and what happens when it does?
pmohr-
Thanks for your help.
I guess I can post the pics here. I just assumed when it said that I can not post attchements that included pics. Glad I was wrong.
So I guess you just leave that hose sitting there not hooked to anything?
Are those your youtube videos? They are very helpful.
Thanks for your help.
I guess I can post the pics here. I just assumed when it said that I can not post attchements that included pics. Glad I was wrong.
So I guess you just leave that hose sitting there not hooked to anything?
Are those your youtube videos? They are very helpful.
So are you suggesting that I go ahead with the pump replacement, as well as check and see if the reman starter really needs to be replaced?
What factor would the Coolant Temp Sensor play in this instance? Does it go south often on this car and what happens when it does?
What factor would the Coolant Temp Sensor play in this instance? Does it go south often on this car and what happens when it does?
The ECTS can cause hard starting and idling issues if it's bad and is showing the wrong temperature.
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 80
I've cleaned the IAFV and throttle body. So I think my next job is to replace that ECTS and hopefully that'll resolve this pain-in-the-butt problem. Thanks for your wisdom!
Okay so I bought a set of rip off ground control coilovers, now when i was trying to install them on the front they didnt work to well, actually at the lowest I could put them they were at stock height maybe a bit higher.
Now the metal sleeve part doesnt fit over the stock shocks in the front, im not sure about the rears i havent gotten to that yet, also the boot is too big and the yellow rubberish peice is too big.
Now I heard they can be used on stock set up but I am wondering how I can accomplish that. I dont have too much money so I cannot go and buy any aftermarket shocks or anything. I have searched and found nothing on that exact problem. If anyone can help that would be greatly appreciated.
Now the metal sleeve part doesnt fit over the stock shocks in the front, im not sure about the rears i havent gotten to that yet, also the boot is too big and the yellow rubberish peice is too big.
Now I heard they can be used on stock set up but I am wondering how I can accomplish that. I dont have too much money so I cannot go and buy any aftermarket shocks or anything. I have searched and found nothing on that exact problem. If anyone can help that would be greatly appreciated.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1
Freaky Starting Issues
I am new to site (I'll just put that out there). I have been searching threads for 2 hours seeking some resolution for the problem with MY 1997 Maxima GLE. Here's my day since I noticed details are required or atleast highly desired:
I leave for work at 0700 and my car starts like a champ.
I go to lunch at 1130 and my car will crank, but it won't start until I turn the key a second time.
I walk out of Captain D's or wherever at 1215 and it starts like a champ.
I leave work at 1600 and my car will crank but it won't start until I turn the key a second time.
Once started, it runs fine. Acceleration is superb and Maxi can run with the best of them. But I don't want to get somewhere and she won't start at all. She has a new alternator, starter, and ignition switch. I've checked all the fuses and the battery is as good as new.
Please help. I'm considering getting this baby painted and doing some other mods but I'd like to get the mechanical stuff fixed first. I think it's crap to have a good-looking car that isn't up to par under the hood. Please help.
I leave for work at 0700 and my car starts like a champ.
I go to lunch at 1130 and my car will crank, but it won't start until I turn the key a second time.
I walk out of Captain D's or wherever at 1215 and it starts like a champ.
I leave work at 1600 and my car will crank but it won't start until I turn the key a second time.
Once started, it runs fine. Acceleration is superb and Maxi can run with the best of them. But I don't want to get somewhere and she won't start at all. She has a new alternator, starter, and ignition switch. I've checked all the fuses and the battery is as good as new.
Please help. I'm considering getting this baby painted and doing some other mods but I'd like to get the mechanical stuff fixed first. I think it's crap to have a good-looking car that isn't up to par under the hood. Please help.
motor swap question
i have heard of people wanting to do this and i have seen pictures of one person who actually did it. i have a 97 maxima se 5 speed. i just bought the VQ35DE motor out of a 06 max. what all is involved in the swap. i know the timing will be an issue. is there a jumper wire to use off my ecu? is it easier to get a new ecu? if i change the ecu what else do i need to do? i have a guy willing to do the swap for $500-$700. Good price? i have a lot of questions. if anyone has done this please let me know what all you went through. thanks for looking 
Are you sure it's the water pump drain plug? Is it gushing coolant?
I believe it's a 12mm head, so that would make the threads (assuming it's standard) 8x1.25.
Or you could just get the part from a junkyard car, the classifieds here, or Nissan:
11051-31U02, $3.70 each at Courtesy
i have heard of people wanting to do this and i have seen pictures of one person who actually did it. i have a 97 maxima se 5 speed. i just bought the VQ35DE motor out of a 06 max. what all is involved in the swap. i know the timing will be an issue. is there a jumper wire to use off my ecu? is it easier to get a new ecu? if i change the ecu what else do i need to do? i have a guy willing to do the swap for $500-$700. Good price? i have a lot of questions. if anyone has done this please let me know what all you went through. thanks for looking
First, why would you buy the engine before you knew how to do the swap?
Second, have you searched at all? Even a little bit? The complete step by step instructions are openly available. Hell, there are several stickies about this sole subject.
And many people have done the VQ35 swap.
Are you looking for a full swap, or hybrid? A 'jumper wire' for the ECU? What does that mean? Get a new ECU...which ECU? You don't plan on this being plug and play at all, do you? If so, you're going to be very disappointed.
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 32
Im trying to figure that out too. I was a slow leak, that started on wed. Now my radiator is draining as fast as i can fill it. I started to take everything apart to replace the water pump thinking it was that. Then I figured out on one of your other wonderful post that there is a drain plug!! So while im out I want to grab one just in case its that. Thank you for your help!! Your posts are awesome!!
Im trying to figure that out too. I was a slow leak, that started on wed. Now my radiator is draining as fast as i can fill it. I started to take everything apart to replace the water pump thinking it was that. Then I figured out on one of your other wonderful post that there is a drain plug!! So while im out I want to grab one just in case its that. Thank you for your help!! Your posts are awesome!!
If it was that drain plug, you'd know; coolant/water would pour directly out of that hole.
If it leaks from the area highlighted in red below, then it's the water pump (most likely the seals, but might as well put in a new one):
If you can't determine exactly where, take a look at your rad, they have a tendency to crack here:
First thing I'd do before tearing everything apart (well after taking a quick visual, of course) is to have the system pressure tested, or rent one and do it yourself (though you'd need access to a compressed air source).
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 32
Well I have taken the compressor, alternator, belt tensioner, and the plate that the compressor bolts to. Its leaking from the side in between the timing chain cover and block. It almost looks like its the block, some cover that im not too sure about, and then the timing cover. Theres little gaps in between all of those plates that are bolted together and its leaking between there. its hard to explain without a pic.
Well I have taken the compressor, alternator, belt tensioner, and the plate that the compressor bolts to. Its leaking from the side in between the timing chain cover and block. It almost looks like its the block, some cover that im not too sure about, and then the timing cover. Theres little gaps in between all of those plates that are bolted together and its leaking between there. its hard to explain without a pic.
So it's leaking from the red highlighted area in the above picture, then?
What brake sensor? You mean for ABS?
What do you mean by 'brake system'? That could mean anything with the brakes.
Could you point it out on a diagram? Better yet, take a picture?
As for pulling the pump out, did you buy the correct bolts to remove it with?
Pretty much any 12mm head bolt will work if it's long enough, but you can buy the correct bolts from most any auto parts store for a few bucks:
