NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 50
You did a ECU (engine control unit) diagnostic, I think pmohr was referring to TCM (transmission control module) diagnostic.
http://forums.maxima.org/1001794-post2.html
http://forums.maxima.org/1001794-post2.html
ahh ok, sry about that. well i followed the link and followed those instructions. i'm assuming it's good news that each flash (except the first one like it's supposed to) were short pulses. and according to the Judgement Flickers code list. everything is ok as far as that test goes. umm anyone else got any advice?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 8
smog failed readiness monitors
I have a question about readiness monitors.1997 maxima gle auto failed smog the first time because monitors were not ready, I had fixed sensors and reset it.I checked my scanner and it said EGR monitor not ready. I drove 500 miles took it back for smog and tech said still not ready. I have read that one monitor not ready is okay. He checked twice but did he reset the first time and showed me the fail the second time? He checked first because he saw why it failed the first time. When I got home all monitors were not ready, did this guy reset it so that I can go pay again or what? I know that the only monitor not ready was EGR because it was the only one flashing on my scanner until I got home from failing they where all flashing again.
Seized compressor - PLEASE HELP -
I have searched and found other people who have had the same noise my car was making, long story short...at idle, my alt/ac belt started smoking and i turned the car off...then the belt snapped. After I let things cool off for a bit, i tried to turn all of the pulleys by hand, and the compressor pulley won't move. Of course local shops want anywhere from $670 to $1,300 to fix. "New compressor, drier, evac and refill, belt, labor, etc." Jensen Tire says it needs to be repaced as a whole. I have read the threads about swapping out a new bearing, but in none of the threads does it mention that their pulley "seized" I'm wondering if it would be worth it to try and get a new bearing, or how I can single out the problem if possible...A HUGE THANK YOU to anyone who can help me out and give me some new info...
I have searched and found other people who have had the same noise my car was making, long story short...at idle, my alt/ac belt started smoking and i turned the car off...then the belt snapped. After I let things cool off for a bit, i tried to turn all of the pulleys by hand, and the compressor pulley won't move. Of course local shops want anywhere from $670 to $1,300 to fix. "New compressor, drier, evac and refill, belt, labor, etc." Jensen Tire says it needs to be repaced as a whole. I have read the threads about swapping out a new bearing, but in none of the threads does it mention that their pulley "seized" I'm wondering if it would be worth it to try and get a new bearing, or how I can single out the problem if possible...A HUGE THANK YOU to anyone who can help me out and give me some new info...
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3
3rd generation water pump
Since people with less than 15 posts cannot start their own thread, but MIGHT have a legitimate question, I am opening another thread for noobie questions.
First off, I will answer a few general questions:
Q: Why can't I start a new thread?
A: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=413179
Q: Why can't I search maxima.org?
A: You can't see the search button dummy.
With that out of the way...
This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a LEGITIMATE question. It can be ANYTHING that is 4th generation related and NOT covered in the existing sticky threads. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, I will delete it.
This is only for LEGIT 4th Gen questions that may be specific to one user.
SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.
This is for noobs only and will be open only as long as I feel like maintaining it.
ALL RESPONSES MUST BE A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION!
New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.
Postwhoring will not be tolerated!
-If you get an answer to your question, please move along.
-If you have a followup, by all means, post it.
-No posts to say "Thanks!" (We don't need 10,000 posts thanking someone for helping them out.)
-No posting "I want to know that, too."
-Incorrect answers or answers that are just plain annoying will be removed.
All of these will be deleted. If it gets bad enough, I will just ban you.
Here are some links that will also be helpful:
4th gen FAQs (READ ME! PLEASE! READ ME!):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=72447
If you are having mechanical problems (INCLUDING a "Check Engine" light), this thread is a GREAT place to start:
http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=512892
All other sticky threads have answers to common questions, information about common modifications, and other generally good info. I took a week and re-organized it. I did not do this for my own benefit- I don't even OWN a 4th gen.
One more reminder: THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR SEARCHING!!!
First off, I will answer a few general questions:
Q: Why can't I start a new thread?
A: http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=413179
Q: Why can't I search maxima.org?
A: You can't see the search button dummy.
With that out of the way...
This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a LEGITIMATE question. It can be ANYTHING that is 4th generation related and NOT covered in the existing sticky threads. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, I will delete it.
This is only for LEGIT 4th Gen questions that may be specific to one user.
SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.
This is for noobs only and will be open only as long as I feel like maintaining it.
ALL RESPONSES MUST BE A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION!
New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.
Postwhoring will not be tolerated!
-If you get an answer to your question, please move along.
-If you have a followup, by all means, post it.
-No posts to say "Thanks!" (We don't need 10,000 posts thanking someone for helping them out.)
-No posting "I want to know that, too."
-Incorrect answers or answers that are just plain annoying will be removed.
All of these will be deleted. If it gets bad enough, I will just ban you.
Here are some links that will also be helpful:
4th gen FAQs (READ ME! PLEASE! READ ME!):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=72447
If you are having mechanical problems (INCLUDING a "Check Engine" light), this thread is a GREAT place to start:
http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=512892
All other sticky threads have answers to common questions, information about common modifications, and other generally good info. I took a week and re-organized it. I did not do this for my own benefit- I don't even OWN a 4th gen.
One more reminder: THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR SEARCHING!!!
I have a 1994 SE DOHC. Can anyone tell me a good source for a water pump? I've checked all the locals, NAPA, Advanced, Pep Boys, O'Reilly, etc., etc. (forget Autozone).
Also, can anyone direct me to a thread that will give me some things to look out for?
I appreciate your help,
mark3681
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2
Check engine light
i took my maxima to our local autozone store and they read my check engine light the codes it threw out are
p0500-Vehicle Speed Sensor circuit fault
p0600-BBAT communication error
p0325-Knock sensor (KS) 1 circuit bank 1 or single
BBcylinder
now i just changed my speed sensor yesterday and it worked fine all day yesterday and then today the speedometer quit working and then 5 to 10 minutes later the check engine light came on and i went to a mechanic and he read the codes, he got the sames ones now i am wondering if i have a short in speed senor would that throw the other two codes or am i looking at a short in the computer.
p0500-Vehicle Speed Sensor circuit fault
p0600-BBAT communication error
p0325-Knock sensor (KS) 1 circuit bank 1 or single
BBcylinder
now i just changed my speed sensor yesterday and it worked fine all day yesterday and then today the speedometer quit working and then 5 to 10 minutes later the check engine light came on and i went to a mechanic and he read the codes, he got the sames ones now i am wondering if i have a short in speed senor would that throw the other two codes or am i looking at a short in the computer.
Hey all,
I have a 1994 SE DOHC. Can anyone tell me a good source for a water pump? I've checked all the locals, NAPA, Advanced, Pep Boys, O'Reilly, etc., etc. (forget Autozone).
Also, can anyone direct me to a thread that will give me some things to look out for?
I appreciate your help,
mark3681
I have a 1994 SE DOHC. Can anyone tell me a good source for a water pump? I've checked all the locals, NAPA, Advanced, Pep Boys, O'Reilly, etc., etc. (forget Autozone).
Also, can anyone direct me to a thread that will give me some things to look out for?
I appreciate your help,
mark3681
^That is for 3rd gen, I have never done any work at all on your car. The people there would know better
if you want a water pump though http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_sear...1611_1634_1637
what do you mean look at for? As far as water pump? http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?searchid=660085
or as far as your car in general? http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?searchid=660093
Advanced Search has ALL the answers
Last edited by B_Eaze; Aug 25, 2009 at 08:51 AM.
i took my maxima to our local autozone store and they read my check engine light the codes it threw out are
p0500-Vehicle Speed Sensor circuit fault
p0600-BBAT communication error
p0325-Knock sensor (KS) 1 circuit bank 1 or single
BBcylinder
now i just changed my speed sensor yesterday and it worked fine all day yesterday and then today the speedometer quit working and then 5 to 10 minutes later the check engine light came on and i went to a mechanic and he read the codes, he got the sames ones now i am wondering if i have a short in speed senor would that throw the other two codes or am i looking at a short in the computer.
p0500-Vehicle Speed Sensor circuit fault
p0600-BBAT communication error
p0325-Knock sensor (KS) 1 circuit bank 1 or single
BBcylinder
now i just changed my speed sensor yesterday and it worked fine all day yesterday and then today the speedometer quit working and then 5 to 10 minutes later the check engine light came on and i went to a mechanic and he read the codes, he got the sames ones now i am wondering if i have a short in speed senor would that throw the other two codes or am i looking at a short in the computer.
your answers http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nge-first.html
so either your VSS is DOA or it was installed incorrectly. I would check that first. It could be other things but I really think it has something to do with the VSS.
As for the knock sensor:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2nta...C2C64F&index=0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPIMO...C2C64F&index=1
Last edited by B_Eaze; Aug 25, 2009 at 09:02 AM.
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 50
whats going on fellas, i just bought a maxima the other day, i know how forums are because i used to have a 03 BMW M3 till i got rear ended n used to be on bmw forums... i just got a quick question, i did a bit of my own research and got a much better idea what my problem might be, but i was just curious if i can possibly see what some people with better experience than me has to say about my problem. my car drives n shifts just fine, but last night it wouldn't shift into 4th gear(automatic). today it worked fine, and then later on it stopped doing it again... it shifts smoothly from 1-3rd but never reaches 4th. i have a 99 maxima with 135k, oil change was done 3 weeks ago. any advice? i hope i dont get flammed or ne thing, i did read ur rules n if im going against them i'm sorry, i just feel more assure of my problems when i get a response from somebody personally. again sorry and thanks in advance if u let this ride...
the OD light does not come on unless i push the button, so that's working fine. i did the diag. test and it came out to be 0505 which means no failure found. but a few days before i plugged it into a ODBII and i got
P0100 MAF VAF CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
P0705 TRANS RANGE SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
i replaced the MAF the other day, idk if that was the right move, that's what this mechanic guy i asked said to do. and also the reason i waited soo long to respond back was because i was doing a trial run with the car for 9 days straight. the car will shift 100% fine into all gears during the daytime and once the sun sets, it won't go past 3rd gear. idk why or how this is possible but if anyone has any idea's please lemme know. thank you.
p.s. As far as maintence... i don't have the money to get it fully checked out or maintained correctly so i'm trying to do everything on my own =/
P0100 MAF VAF CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
P0705 TRANS RANGE SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
i replaced the MAF the other day, idk if that was the right move, that's what this mechanic guy i asked said to do. and also the reason i waited soo long to respond back was because i was doing a trial run with the car for 9 days straight. the car will shift 100% fine into all gears during the daytime and once the sun sets, it won't go past 3rd gear. idk why or how this is possible but if anyone has any idea's please lemme know. thank you.
p.s. As far as maintence... i don't have the money to get it fully checked out or maintained correctly so i'm trying to do everything on my own =/
ahh ok, sry about that. well i followed the link and followed the TCM instructions. i'm assuming it's good news that each flash (except the first one like it's supposed to) were short pulses. and according to the Judgement Flickers code list. everything is ok as far as that test goes. umm anyone else got any advice?
anyone have ne intake on this? a lil lost in what to do. idk how much more research i can do cause i ain't finding my answers anywhere =/. the car shifts during the day but not at night... wtf? lol
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 6
From: BC, Canada
I've recently inherited a 1996 Maxima. It's in a general working order but has some cold startup issues. When trying to get the ecu codes I've spotted that when I turn the key to ON position there's no 'check engine' light at all. Is it normal? The other lights (hand brake, seatbelts, battery etc) are lit. When I start the car - they go off as they should. I've read the stickies and followed the instructions - when I turn the ECU screw clockwise I can hear ticking from the engine (like a clock), when I turn it back counterclockwise - no codes are displayed at all and the ticking is gone.
Am I doing something wrong? Shouldn't the 'check engine' light be lit when I turn the key to ON position?
Am I doing something wrong? Shouldn't the 'check engine' light be lit when I turn the key to ON position?
I've recently inherited a 1996 Maxima. It's in a general working order but has some cold startup issues. When trying to get the ecu codes I've spotted that when I turn the key to ON position there's no 'check engine' light at all. Is it normal? The other lights (hand brake, seatbelts, battery etc) are lit. When I start the car - they go off as they should. I've read the stickies and followed the instructions - when I turn the ECU screw clockwise I can hear ticking from the engine (like a clock), when I turn it back counterclockwise - no codes are displayed at all and the ticking is gone.
Am I doing something wrong? Shouldn't the 'check engine' light be lit when I turn the key to ON position?
Am I doing something wrong? Shouldn't the 'check engine' light be lit when I turn the key to ON position?
HOLY GEEZ
An update on my earlier question...thanks to this site, I got the NAPA part number 25-060355 (or NBH 2506355) to use until I get this compressor situation figured out...perfect fit! And on the positive note...I can get the compressor pulley to spin now, I'm going to start to take it apart till I find the problem, but it feels like the bearing is the culprit. I can't wait to take my receipt for the bearing to Jensen and ask why exactly they were going to charge me and extra $900...it's gonna be a sweet day! 
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 8
Update on my readiness monitor situation. I took my max to another smog tech after the first one failed me for the second time. It passed. I think the first smog guy just wanted me to pay all over again. 2 readiness monitors not ready is ok in cali.
Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 221
From: Mesa, AZ
A/C cold at idle but gets warm while driving
Basically when I first start my car the a/c blows nice and cold but when I start driving it starts to get warmer and kinda gets that smell of the defroster going on. But then when I stop at a stop light the defroster smell goes away and it gets nice and cold again. I was reading around and thinking maybe its a vacuum leak thats causing the defroster to kick on while accelerating. I had someone check the refrigerant charge and they said it was fine. Any ideas what could be wrong or things I could check for?
my car makes a weird rattling noise going over any little bump or when it shifts.
i had my car jacked up, and i duplicated the noise by playing with the wheel. i think its the tranny moving around.
heres the vids:
http://photobucket.com/albums/s110/J...rrent=tr01.flv
http://photobucket.com/albums/s110/J...rrent=tr02.flv
i had my car jacked up, and i duplicated the noise by playing with the wheel. i think its the tranny moving around.
heres the vids:
http://photobucket.com/albums/s110/J...rrent=tr01.flv
http://photobucket.com/albums/s110/J...rrent=tr02.flv
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2
I don't think anythin is wrong with your speedometer... its your VSS (vehicle speed sensor). If your VSS isn't working then your speedometer won't work because nothing is being sent to it.... Nothing to do with the knock sensor, I'm pretty sure.
your answers http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nge-first.html
so either your VSS is DOA or it was installed incorrectly. I would check that first. It could be other things but I really think it has something to do with the VSS.
As for the knock sensor:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2nta...C2C64F&index=0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPIMO...C2C64F&index=1
your answers http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nge-first.html
so either your VSS is DOA or it was installed incorrectly. I would check that first. It could be other things but I really think it has something to do with the VSS.
As for the knock sensor:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2nta...C2C64F&index=0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPIMO...C2C64F&index=1
my car makes a weird rattling noise going over any little bump or when it shifts.
i had my car jacked up, and i duplicated the noise by playing with the wheel. i think its the tranny moving around.
heres the vids:
http://photobucket.com/albums/s110/J...rrent=tr01.flv
http://photobucket.com/albums/s110/J...rrent=tr02.flv
i had my car jacked up, and i duplicated the noise by playing with the wheel. i think its the tranny moving around.
heres the vids:
http://photobucket.com/albums/s110/J...rrent=tr01.flv
http://photobucket.com/albums/s110/J...rrent=tr02.flv
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 6
From: BC, Canada
Update to my 0505 code - after changing the CEL bulb my CEL is blinking while driving. No codes about it - but it probably means a missfire - I will start with changing the spark plugs (apparently they haven't been changed for quite a long time).
After turning off the engine and switching the key to ON I got 2 new codes - 0304 - knock sensor and 1302. :/
Read the stickies - ordered new KS and I'm wondering where to start with 1302. Already checked the hoses and they seem fine. Should I play around with sensor saying 'boost' or the MAP/BAR valve itself?
Also - when I reset the ECU (clockwise, wait 5 sec, counterclockwise, repeat) after starting the engine and turning if off and back to ON position - my CEL is not steadily lit, it just blinks with 0505 (so the error codes are cleared). Is it normal? Shouldn't the CEL be just lit?
After turning off the engine and switching the key to ON I got 2 new codes - 0304 - knock sensor and 1302. :/
Read the stickies - ordered new KS and I'm wondering where to start with 1302. Already checked the hoses and they seem fine. Should I play around with sensor saying 'boost' or the MAP/BAR valve itself?
Also - when I reset the ECU (clockwise, wait 5 sec, counterclockwise, repeat) after starting the engine and turning if off and back to ON position - my CEL is not steadily lit, it just blinks with 0505 (so the error codes are cleared). Is it normal? Shouldn't the CEL be just lit?
HARD START
So lately I have been having hard starting problems, car seems to run way too rich so i replaced the ECTS and no luck. The injectors seem to be flooded everytime I check them, the coils seem fine so it shouldnt be the coils.
The car will crank and crank and keep cranking untill the battery dies, but only if the car is being started after it was running.
If I try starting the car after a night of sitting it starts up after a few seconds of cranking. So far I have ruled out coil packs and ECTS. Im not sure if it could be the injectors or not but that is why I am asking.
Can someone help me since I need to have my car running
The car will crank and crank and keep cranking untill the battery dies, but only if the car is being started after it was running.
If I try starting the car after a night of sitting it starts up after a few seconds of cranking. So far I have ruled out coil packs and ECTS. Im not sure if it could be the injectors or not but that is why I am asking.
Can someone help me since I need to have my car running
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 48
From: Pittsburg, KS
Bose HU no audio-It's not the resistor
So I guess I don't answer enough questions to quit being newbie status. My 95 Bose CD player started the intermittent sound cutting out. I tried re-seating the board. Just stopped completely. I had all the info form the Madchef site and went to a local shop. They probed the resistor in front of me and said that's not it. Has anyone worked these things any further? I'm NOT paying ebay prices for a used one. I just want to exhaust any easy fixes before buying a new deck and the harnes and the level converter. I would rather pay the local guy $25-30 in soldering and keep it stock if possible.
can anyone help me here? Also pulled the 0407 Crankshaft Position sensor (reference) code, now is that the one by the belt or near the starter? Would this have to do with the starting issues
So lately I have been having hard starting problems, car seems to run way too rich so i replaced the ECTS and no luck. The injectors seem to be flooded everytime I check them, the coils seem fine so it shouldnt be the coils.
The car will crank and crank and keep cranking untill the battery dies, but only if the car is being started after it was running.
If I try starting the car after a night of sitting it starts up after a few seconds of cranking. So far I have ruled out coil packs and ECTS. Im not sure if it could be the injectors or not but that is why I am asking.
Can someone help me since I need to have my car running
The car will crank and crank and keep cranking untill the battery dies, but only if the car is being started after it was running.
If I try starting the car after a night of sitting it starts up after a few seconds of cranking. So far I have ruled out coil packs and ECTS. Im not sure if it could be the injectors or not but that is why I am asking.
Can someone help me since I need to have my car running
Last edited by watson; Aug 27, 2009 at 07:46 PM.
if its not your ECTS idk what the hell it is. I'd check my TB, IACV and CPS to see if they were all ok
Ive cleaned out the TB twice now since july, first time in july it was really dirty and now today and it was very clean still. not sure where the IACV is located and what it does and the CPS im not sure where the (ref) one is.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-dummies.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ing-p0400.html
CPS
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...verything.html
you will fall in love with a Haynes/Chilton manual, it will be our best friend
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 6
From: BC, Canada
Also - when I reset the ECU (clockwise, wait 5 sec, counterclockwise, repeat) after starting the engine and turning if off and back to ON position - my CEL is not steadily lit, it just blinks with 0505 (so the error codes are cleared). Is it normal? Shouldn't the CEL be just lit?
done some more maintenance yesterday - changed spark plugs, replaced ignition switch that finally arrived, changed oil and transmission fluid.
I still can't seem to be able to 'reset ECU' - when I do the steps twice it still flashes 0505 (no error) after the reset. shouldn't the CEL be just lit (without any flashing)?
after 10-15 mins of driving - two codes 0304 (still waiting for knock sensor) and 1302. also need to check my exhaust cause it's way too loud (probably some hole).
The CEL blinks while driving. not consistent - sometimes it blinks steadily 10 times, goes off for 5 seconds, comes on for 3 seconds... no missfire codes, no stalling. a bit high idle but the rpm is very steady and I don't notice any strange noises. where do I go from here? I'd like to avoid 'throwing parts' at the problems.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4
99 Maxima - Stalls within 3 seconds of starting
My fiance has a 99 that stalls right after starting.
The car starts normally and runs for a couple seconds then stalls. Trying to restart the engine without turning the key to the off position results in the engine cranking but not starting.
Turning off the key and then restarting the car results in the engine starting again and then stalling out same as before.
1 out of 5 or so tries the engine will crank several times and as I start to release the key to the on position the car will start and run normally till I shut off the engine.
CEL is not on and no codes are reported. Battery reads 12.1V and when the engine is running about 13.8V. Could this be the ignition switch? or can someone point me in a direction of what to check first.
Thanks
edit: forgot to mention that revving the engine does not prevent the engine from stalling. It always stalls approximately 3 seconds after starting.
The car starts normally and runs for a couple seconds then stalls. Trying to restart the engine without turning the key to the off position results in the engine cranking but not starting.
Turning off the key and then restarting the car results in the engine starting again and then stalling out same as before.
1 out of 5 or so tries the engine will crank several times and as I start to release the key to the on position the car will start and run normally till I shut off the engine.
CEL is not on and no codes are reported. Battery reads 12.1V and when the engine is running about 13.8V. Could this be the ignition switch? or can someone point me in a direction of what to check first.
Thanks
edit: forgot to mention that revving the engine does not prevent the engine from stalling. It always stalls approximately 3 seconds after starting.
Last edited by gezster; Aug 28, 2009 at 02:58 PM.
Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 107
From: plymouth CT
Headlight problem
Ok so I bought a pair of headlights off of here for really cheap and the and the bolts on one of them are both broken off is there a way to fix this or am I screwed sry I don't have any pics I am using my iPhone won't let me upload
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 11
My granddad's 95 Maxima is havinga hot, no crank problem.
When it's hot, it won't crank at all. No click, nothing.
He left it until the next morning, letting it cool off, and it started first try.
What is this indicative of?
When it's hot, it won't crank at all. No click, nothing.
He left it until the next morning, letting it cool off, and it started first try.
What is this indicative of?
Have you tested to see exactly where it's failing when hot? Narrow components down one by one. Could be in the inhibitor system, ignition switch, starter, wiring, relays, etc.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 11
Sorry, this is a separate issue than the one I posted a few weeks ago, though highly similar.
We replaced the ECTS about 3 weeks ago when it was having a hard time starting when hot, but it would crank and crank, but not start.
Upon replacing the ECTS, it started fine, hot or cold.
The current issue is that it won't even crank when hot. I can't even hear one clink under the hood when I have him try turning it over when its hot, it's just dead.
It did this for the first time Friday night after a 9 hour mountain drive, and when he stopped at the mailbox a block from home, it won't re-start, nothing, no crank.
I told him to leave it over night and sure enough, the next morning it started up no problem without hesitation.
The car is currently throwing the following codes:
I am thinking it's either the starter (original) or the ignition switch (also original)
He is hesitant to drive it any more for fear of being stranded, so I'd like to fix it but I am not sure what the problem is.
We replaced the ECTS about 3 weeks ago when it was having a hard time starting when hot, but it would crank and crank, but not start.
Upon replacing the ECTS, it started fine, hot or cold.
The current issue is that it won't even crank when hot. I can't even hear one clink under the hood when I have him try turning it over when its hot, it's just dead.
It did this for the first time Friday night after a 9 hour mountain drive, and when he stopped at the mailbox a block from home, it won't re-start, nothing, no crank.
I told him to leave it over night and sure enough, the next morning it started up no problem without hesitation.
The car is currently throwing the following codes:
- 33
- 34
- 54
I am thinking it's either the starter (original) or the ignition switch (also original)
He is hesitant to drive it any more for fear of being stranded, so I'd like to fix it but I am not sure what the problem is.
