What should I start with and how?

 

When it won't crank, row through the gears and try starting in each individual gear position (assuming 4AT).

See if the inhibitor relay clicks when you shift into Park or Neutral, see if the starter is getting B+ on the signal wire when you try to crank it, see if the ignition switch is sending B+ to the inhibitor relay, etc.

 

Sweet, thanks I will give that a shot.

In terms of relays, there is the Neutral Safety Switch (it's a 4AT), and is there a starter relay? I see under the hood there is an "Antitheft ____ Start" relay. is that the starter relay? Or is there one?

 

The closest thing to a starter relay is the inhibitor relay. The antitheft relay is upstream of that.

I can only imagine you mean the inhibitor switch when you say 'neutral safety switch'.

 

I pulled my third brake light from the back window. Love not having the red glare on the spoiler. However now I want to remove the bracket. Removing the two bolts didn't budge it. Anyone who's been under the back deck know how far it's attached?

 

I have a stupid question.... is the egr valve gasket about the same as the tube gasket? No stores or dealers have it in my area and I need upper and lower

 

I am desperately trying to find a manual cause I hate front wheel drive auto cars with more than 140hp...trannies just dont hold up

 

Okay?

And the stock RE4F04A is holding up just fine for Jime's 10 second 1/4 mile runs

 

Can any one tell me how to change the color of the guages. Got tired of the white/ yellowish on the speedometer and the green for the clock and ac if even possible. Thnxx

 

I installed a new starter the other day cause my old one crapped out on me. This one works but only after a few tries. When I try to start the car I can hear the starter going, but not cranking. It sounds like it is just spinning inside. After a few times it seems like its grabs and catches. Would this be cause the starter has 10 teeth instead of 9 like my old one or could the teeth inside be broken off from the old starter which I would have to crank for a minute before it started.

 

Didn't tighten the bolts enough and ur starter came loose. Retighten them

 

Check stickies

 

and...I have seen a 2004 or 2005 model with less than 50K that was shot...

I dont know who Jimes is but chances are he takes better care of his car then most...

are you saying the automatics are better in these cars than most?

I would buy an Acura TL but the trannies on them are junk..and they cost more..

 

Hello, I was wondering if the pin out on a 1998 tach is the same as a 1995 tach?

The tach in my 95 has a mind of it's own and I have a chance to buy a 1998 cluster. I've searched but I found nothing specific to this question. Just alot of tach problems. I would think the wiring is the same whether it is auto or manual.

Thanks in advance.

edit: I'm not looking to change the entire cluster, as I know the 98 would be digital for the odometer. Is it possible to change just the rpm/tach gauge within the cluster, a 98 to a 95? Cheers.

 

The bolts are tight always double check.

 

They will loosen themselves from regular driving and starting so if you are sure they are tight right now are you sure you got the right starter? Wouldn't be the first time the parts store gave out the wrong part

 

I checked the tightness this morning and they are still tight, its the right starter I got it from a yunkyard but it was pretty much brand new when they got it. The only thing I can think of is that is had 10 teeth instead of 9 like my old one, are the teeth interchangable?

 

are all 4th gen max equipped with the evap? ive seen some on here that have it but mine doesnt.....

 

YAY 15 post finally

sorry.

okay here is the past story. i had the ks code and o2 code and air temp code and also had oil in the 3rd sparkplug chamber (second back one) most likely tube seal.
so i ordered a new ks on flebay got it this morning also ordered some used coil packs 6 for 67 bucks. got straight to it and installed everything one coil was bad so i used the one that worked from my packs. still 3rd chamber has some oil. will order valve cover gaskets soon i need them front valve has a leak and its leaking like a ****. sorry got sidetrack back to my issue now the car started up just wonderful drove it and it was great got back home left it on to make sure and what do you know it starts to hesitate/misfire so here is the big question after all this rambling. can it be that possible that the misfire/hesitation is being caused by the sparkplug tube seal?? someone please help so i know for sure. (oh and its not a vacuum leak every hose is connected to where its suppose to be i marked them)

 

Why not change the whole cluster? It's a rather common swap, the digital odo is 'better'.

Yes, you should be able to swap the tach individually.

And I as well have seen a brand new trans come in DOA. Your point?

The automatics are fine, if you take care of them and don't beat the hell out of them.

Have you tested the starter? It could be a solenoid issue.

Yes, all USDM A32s are equipped with an EVAP system.

What makes you think yours isn't?

Yes, oil in the plug tube could cause a misfire.

 

well here is ATTappman


okay and here is my engine


and here is that same spot

its missing

 

Assuming you're referring to the EVAP CPCV next to the throttle cables? It has nothing to do with whether or not you have an EVAP system, just like not having a keyfob has nothing to do with whether or not your car has a keyless entry system.

Since you've neglected to either mention what year your car is, or fill out your profile, I'll assume you've got a '95. Fed spec '95s didn't have the CPCV there.

 

Thanks for the help but after questioning the selling some more he sent me a picture and it's a set out of a 1997 with the analog config.

That said, I can now either swap all the guages into my cluster and transfer the white face of the speedo over to my existing one (or vice versa) - at least I swear I saw a how-to in the archives on transferring the factory white face to a black one.

 

Hey I have a question:

I have a 99 SE-L and im thinking about doing the 3.5 swap and also turbocharging it, after the swap has been completed. How much money do you guys think (or know) would this require to accomplish? my current 3.0 liter engine has only 106,000 miles on it, but I wanna go fast and kill STI's. Any input is greatly appreciated- Thanks!

 

There is absolutely zero way to give you an accurate price estimate.

It could cost you from $1k to $10k+.

There are quite a few different variables that come into play even just doing a VQ35 swap that would affect overall price, not to mention boosting it.

You need to price out everything you need for both, double a reasonable estimate for labor, then double that entire number, call that your overall budget. If you're doing it yourself, then obviously labor wouldn't matter.

 

I'm thinking about having someone from the ORG help me out when the day comes.... Somebody whos done the swap multiple times and lives around the seattle area. Itd probly be cheaper to do that than take it to a mechanic and have them do it... if they even would know how. Maybe ill just stick with the swap because ive heard that boosting is not a good idea unless you know alot about repairs, parts, and what not. I don't at all. I just want a bigger engine and more horsepower damnit!!!

 

it is a 95. just wanted to make sure since some do have the cpcv

 

If installed and tuned correctly, you won't have any more repairs with a turbo setup than a N/A setup.

 

How so? Doesn't the turbo just kill your engine alot faster than a non-turbo would? I thought thats what turbos do lol.... How many miles have you driven with your turbo and how many problems have you come across Wizard?

 

Any engine problems are typically user error, not mechanical. Of course, the user has to know the limits of the engine based on the size of the turbo/etc. Going ***** out will usually require some upgrading of engine internals. Generally speaking, trannies usually go before the engine.

I'm at near 400hp, stock internals too. Been this way for years now. Never had a single problem. Like I said before, a solid setup/install and a good tune, and the engine will be perfectly safe for a long time to come. The extra wear and tear on the engine due to FI is minimal if done correctly.

 

Did you install it yourself then i presume? You seem to know alot... and how much HP did you gain off adding the turbo? Is it a bigger turbo than most cuz 400 hp on a maxima is a **** load...

 

Yup, sure did.
I don't have a turbo, I have a Supercharger. To compensate for this much power, I had to upgrade the fuel injectors, fuel pump, add a means of cooling down the boost (water to air aftercooler) and a way to keep my air/fuel ratio at a safe level (11.2-11.5)--Greddy Emanage Ultimate piggyback computer, as well as a few other little things.

 

Aren't S/C's expensive as hell though? Like 3 grand expensive? Oh, and you did those things to your 3.0 right? No swap for you?

 

your making seattle look bad. read through the all motor section then read through the forced induction section. trust me this will help you make a better decision. there are a couple of 3.5 swapped maximas in the area but you'll be ready to ask the proper questions once you read and learn.

 

Yeah but I dont have the time to sit and search. I only had a few questions....geez.

 

At the time I bought it new, it was close to 4k. Used kits go for around $1500 to $2000 here in the classifieds.

Yes, stock 3.0 for me. No swap. Maybe later.

 

I have a question about the headlights. My dad wants them to kinda be angled to where the high beams can have some light on the ground. Similar to how an SUV's headlights can reach the ground. I've searched all over the net trying to find how to adjust the aim of the stock 97 maxima headlights. Does anyone have a diagram or something? That would help so much.

 

i can tell by your post. im not here to bust your ***** but once you get past 15 post and start your own thread you're gonna wish you had at least taken the time to read up. besides, a motor swap or FI is not something you want to rush into.

 

At the time of this post, you had been going back and forth in this thread for 7 hours. That's more than enough time to do a simple search.

If you don't learn how to search, you won't last long around here.

 

http://boredmder.com/FSM/Nissan/Maxima/1997/el.pdf

pg. 56