You have a 4th gen, right?

Yes, it will fit.

Will it work?? You haven't even told us the problem yet, how are we supposed to know if it will work?

On a side note, research comes before purchase.

 

my only thing was it didnt look the same so i was to chicken **** to try to switch it out...but i dont have a key i lost it like 9 months ago on vacation so i just bought the new tumbler and all that but was told it could work for a lil bit but then it might just stop workin

 

my only thing was it didnt look the same so i was to chicken **** to try to switch it out...but i dont have a key i lost it like 9 months ago on vacation so i just bought the new tumbler and all that but was told it could work for a lil bit but then it might just stop workin...and yeah lesson learned from that one lol

 

Does anyone have a DIY write up for replacing your starter? My max wont start and I just replaced the battery. I tried jumping it as well but it only made a clicking noise. BTW, Motorvate seems to be down or messed up or something.

 

Did you search, or read the first page of this subforum? There's a video detailing how to replace it.

 

ok so imma sound like a dumbass but how long is sitting gas good??

 

How about you just say how long the gas you're asking about has been sitting?

Or, ever heard of this site? http://tinyurl.com/notqd4

 

Been working to fix the P1447 evap code so I can pass emissions, but nothing I've tried has worked. Off the top of my head, here is a list of what I've done so far:

• Replace vapor cannister
• Replace vent control valve
• Replace evap purge volume control solenoid valve
• Replace gas cap
• ohm vent control circuit to the ecm
• replace vacuum hoses
• pressure test steel vacuum line from cannister to underhood

Any ideas of what else it could likely be? I'm frustrated and ready to take it to the dealer for repair, but doing so would be a dark, cold day in my life. I'm a total DIY'er.

There's a test procedure that involves bypassing the underhood evap valves to apply engine vacuum to the system, reading the evap pressure sensor output voltage, and then disconnecting the engine vacuum to see if the pressure sensor voltage changes. Doing so would test the pressure sensor as well as the vacuum hoses for most of the system. Sounds simple enough, but the best place to read the pressure sensor voltage would be at the ECM. I'm not sure how to do that without unplugging the ecm connector and the car wouldn't run with the ecm unplugged.


Any feedback or help would be greatly appreciated. My registration can't be renewed without passing emissions.

 

First I would like to say hello to everyone on the board thanks for futures responses to this question.

I have a 95 Maxima with 44,000 miles on it, car wasn't always driven. It runs really well and has been maintained as long as I have owned it. The problem that I am having right now isn't horrific, but annoying and I am assuming has the potential one day soon for a no start.

When I turn the ignition key once, nothing happens, release and then turn the key again and still nothing. I release the key and then turn it again and then the car starts.

This happens about 4 out of every 10 times, I replaced the starter about 3 years ago, and the car was driven once or twice every few months since. NOw I have been driving it everyday for the last 2 weeks. Any ideas ???

 

Y-PIPE!!!!

Which one is most durable and yields the most hp gain without jeopordizing annoying noise increase. I dont want my quiet max to sound ricey arfter i install it. Suggestions?? Experiences with different pipes??

 

hi im looking for a front lipkit for my 1995 maxima if any one has one for sell hit me up thanxs

 

Could be the ignition switch. Next time you turn the key and nothing happens, jiggle it and see if the Max starts then.

 

The best IMO is Cattman, then Budget, then Warpspeed. If you live where it rains or snows a lot, get the SS version.

I've heard all three, and Cattman sounds the best IMO. I have all Cattman components on my Max, great stuff.

Do a search. This has been covered a million times. Then you can come to your own conclusions.

 

Allow me to fix your grammar.....

Check the Classifieds section and your specific regional forum. No one is going to see your request here.

 

Well I do happen to live in Seattle, so the SS version does what more than the regular cattman?

 

Let me clarify.

Cattman's ypipe only comes in ss (Cattman doesn't mess with the cheaper aluminzed steel material).
With Budget and Warpspeed, you have a choice of ss or aluminized steel.

 

How much did you pay for yours? I just found a brand new one for $280. But i bet i could find a better deal than that for a new one.... Suggestions?

 

Been too many years, but some where in the low 300's.
Keep in eye in the classifieds and the Group Deal Forum. Of course there's always ebay.

 

From what I've gathered from searching, I've come to the conclusion that budget is the way to go. A hundred bucks cheaper and same performance output than cattman. I'm just worried about the sound change....

 

Keep your stock catback, and the sound change will be next to nothing.

Keep in mind some people have had issues with the flex section with Budget and Warpspeed. This issue is pretty much non-existent with Cattman FWIW.

 

So the Cattman is a direct bolt-on, which means any idiot with a pair of hands and tools can do themselves huh? Thats good cuz I am not very experienced when it comes to working under the hood. No maintenance is required after installation correct? Oh and would I have to reset the ECU after installation?

 

All of the y-pipes Wiz mentioned are technically direct bolt on but that doesn't mean you will be able to do it without the right tools. It kinda depends if your bolt are rusted to hell and you can't get them off. I think the Cattman thats currently being sold includes the manifolds so you would have to remove those too. Not exactly the most difficult job but like I said it depends on the bolts and how much rust is there. You might wanna take a quick look now so you can know what your gonna need to do before you get the y pipe


You don't need any maintenance after installation and you do not need to reset your ECU but I think I did when i installed mine.

 

Hey guys. New to the forums here. I hope I'm following the rules right by posting my first question in this thread... since I am unable to start my own thread.

My friend's coworker is moving to San Francisco and trying to get rid of his '99 Special Edition Nissan Maxima quickly. Here's what I know about it so far (haven't met him or seen the car yet) ... also keep in mind that I am not a car guy at all. I'm as casual as they come. Anyway:

1999 Special Edition (White)
127,000 Miles
Manual Transmission
Multiple owners (quite a few it sounds like)

Problems:

"It has a rough idle (the idle will change from 600-1200 rpm at random). The check engine light is on. AC does not work. I had all new brakes put on a few months ago, but they are squeaking again. Needs new CV driveaxles on front. Needs a left headlight. It probably needs struts replaced soon."

Recent Maintenance:

"New starter, battery, ignition coils, recent tune-up. Runs like a champ when it is in the correct mood. It has never died on me except once, which prompted me to have the ignition coils and starter replaced. It always starts, no overheating. It has a nice Sony system, although the speakers are shot.

Price: $500

I've talked to a few people who know more about cars than me... most of them said 'take the car to a reputable mechanic to get a proper diagnosis and idea of how much it would cost to get the car feeling good.' I live with a couple car nuts as well... so it's quite possible a lot of the easier maintenance and repairs could be done by them.

Embarrassing note... I can't drive stick shift.. so I'd have to learn that.

Other than that... how does this deal sound to you guys? Fishy? Not worth it? Worth it?

Thanks for all your help! And please excuse any n00bness of the post.

 

For $500, if it runs and drives it's a no-brainer. Personally, the only reason I wouldn't get it is because it's a '99, though I would definitely buy it to part it out.

Check the codes, see what it's telling you.

 

May I ask what you think is wrong with the 1999 model?

 

Extra emissions crap, a non-standard ECU pinout, and most importantly, a faulty NATS system.

 

But, in your opinion if I want a cheap (but manageable) car that'll run me the next few years... that isn't a deal breaker? I'm planning to put around $1,000 into the thing possibly to get it up to snuff.

Also, what did you mean by 'Check the codes'... is that a car reference...?

 

based on his first post, the first two items you mentioned won't affect him, the third might.

I wouldn't let the NATS system scare you away from the purchase man, a lot more people have no issues than those who do.

 

Yeah just like The Wizard said it is most likely your ignition switch, and I had the exact same problem. It was fixed by sticking some tape into the switch, Pmohr has a video on it and when you see the video there is a part where he says to put tape in if there is "slop" and ever since I tried doing that my car's starting problems haven't been back since.

 

From what it seems like you have quite a bit of work to do once you buy it. But you have car people who are car nuts who could help you out a lot when it comes down to doing this stuff, which also could mean the right tools and machines to barrow for the job.

I say, buy it!
But only if you think you can handle the job, I personally would not do it because I don't have all the right tools or the right connections to people who can help me, so

 

Again, I personally would not use a '99 as a daily driver, unless I completely removed NATS.

...yes.

 

Yeah, I think that's the one thing that's keeping me back from it. I have about $6k saved up to buy a car. And I was originally planning to just buy a good-to-go car with lower mileage, well maintained, and fewer owners.

Sure it looks good to get a car that runs for $500 and then fix it up and potentially save a few thousand dollars... but it's a little riskier and would take some time/energy to get it up and running.

Hmmm.. torn!

 

Actually! I think with about 4K or 5K you will have a completely unique car if you put the money into the right places! And it would be even cheaper if you do the work yourself! A new engine shouldn't be more than a few hundred, fresh paint and body parts shouldn't be more than 3K depending on paint, and to fix up the suspension and all that should be just a few hundred. SO basically with about 6K of body and engine work you will have a almost new car with brand new parts, or mostly new.

Haha but maybe I am being too optimistic, and watched Gearz too much

 

Hello everyone, today I drove to school. my 1998 nissan maxima 3.0 auto was working fine, I get out of school and I start it up, and notice that it is shaking ( like a bad spark plug or wire) and I open the hood, but nothing out of the ordinary... until I go to the back and notice RAW gas coming out of my tail-pipe! had it towed to my house, but would like to know if anyone has dealt with this kind of problem, it's not just a little bit of gas but i'd say its pouring out! like rain drops and if you press the gas it comes out faster ( duh) I checked the plugs and the 3 front were fine, a lil carbon but dry, the rear left hand corner near the driver side was fine. the two nearest the passenger side were both wet ( from gas) so tomorrow I plan to check the injectors, anyone have any suggestion? I would be so happy to hear!

 

well i'll try this again. i have a 99' maxima se auto. its got maybe around 138k on it and it drives absolutely fine except for when i turn my headlights on. i did a few checks on it and what i have written down below is what came up. i used to have MAF VAF malfunction but i switched out my MAF already. well anyway my problem is this. when i'm driving with my headlights off the car if fine from top to bottom, but with it on it will NOT shift past third gear (again it's a auto) i want to go to a mechanic to get it checked out but i barely have enough cash for gas. if anyone can put any of their input in this i'd greatly appreciate it please. also if anyone has had this code come up before please lemme kno what u did to fix it. thanks in advance.


CEL ECU check
--------------
P0705 TRANS RANGE SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION

TCM check
-----------
0505

 

My son has only one key for his '99 maxima and today the battery was dead. I put the key in ignition to see if any accessory was working. Nothing, so leaving the key in ignition, I opened the hood, got out, shut the door and prepared to boost. When I put the neg cable to ground the alarm started and all the doors locked. I got the spare remote fob but it wouldn't work so I changed its battery - nothing. I bought a new motomaster battery and installed. The alarm started again so I unplugged the horn and horn fuse. Now lights flash but remote still won't open car. Can anyone help - short of breaking a window?

 

Pull the rail, prime the system, see if those two injectors leak. Also check the o-rings.

There is no such thing as '0505' for the TCM check, either you use a GST and don't pull any codes, or you do the manual TCM diagnostics and don't get any long judgment flickers.

Do you not have a clothes hanger or similar? Just pry the top of the door open, use something to hit the lock switch.

This is exactly why you never leave a key in a vehicle while working on it (or ever, really) with all of the windows up.

 

i did the manual TCM diagnostics and no long judgement flickers were there. soo according to the page with the TCM JF codes it said 0505. which basically is telling me nothing with the transmission is wrong, but here i am with ECU code saying i have a trans range sensor malfunction. the only long JF was the first one but the page explained that's supposed to happen.

 

I replaced one fuel injector, it was leaking... and I replaced the o-rings... and yet I still get gas in the tail-pipe! I dont get it! could it be the computer?

 

I replaced the plugs and all six coilpacks on my 99 SE last year. It ran great until recently. For the past few months it started misfiring intermittently. I've been getting 0603 code, cylinder number 6 misfire. Today I pulled number 6 plug and it looks fine to me. I cleared the codes and swapped number 6 and number 4 coilpacks, hoping to get cylinder number 4 misfire code, meaning it was the coilpack, but now I'm getting 0603 and 0701 multiple cylinder misfire. If the problem was just the one coilpack, shouldn't I only be getting 0605 cylinder number 4 misfire after the swap? All the injectors sound good to me for what that's worth. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.