I would think that someone did replace your trunk. But if that was the case, your rear fenders/bumper probably was repaired due to an accident.
Or maybe the previous owner liked the 95-96 rear end look more than the 97-99 look.

If anything, take a pic of the trunk and both sets of taillights so we can help you better. A picture is worth a thousand words after all

 

ES is Canadian only, and the only Titanium trim was on the '02 SE. You're probably thinking of the '99 SE-L.

 

Ok true, the Limited was what I was talking about.
But then what's special about the ES trim? Cuz I know the SE is sport tuned, GXE is base, and GLE is luxury. Is the ES one up from the GXE or on the same level as the GLE/SE?

 

hello,
I'm sort of new to this, though i have a question that no one has been able to help me with. There is a picture of a part in my profile and i have been to all the parts stores by me with no luck not sure where the nissan dealer is and would really appreciate any help. Thanks shawnroberts54501

 

No idea on the ES, since we never got them here.

It's your EVAP canister purge control valve.



http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...l-no-code.html

Only ~$65 at Courtesy - http://www.courtesyparts.com/14931-v...-p-130349.html

 

Ok cool, thanks man. I'll try talking with a local Nissan dealer to see if they can explain anything.

 

still having electrical problems. how the heck do i bypass this security system/reset it?! on a 96!!! HELP

 

With the problem I have been having, you suggested cleaning TB and maf sensor issues. The engine will rev fine past 2500. Long as it's not tripping, it runs like a champ. Would a dirty maf do that? Btw, I have cleaned the tb and iacv when I first got the car, and that was about 10k ago.

thanks for help!

 

Engine swap! Pop a vq35 in there.

 

Hi to all.

First time poster here and after some info about VQ gearboxes so a point in the right direction or links would be good. Not however a newbie to cars having built several race cars inc. an A31 powered by a mid mount VH45DE so engineering is not an issue

I am looking at re-powering my currently SR20 powered JDM P10 race car with a turbocharged VQ35DE as there is no substitute for cubic capacity as the saying goes.

My issue is finding a suitable and reliable gearbox to support the engine. As i am in New Zealand i have a shortage of LSD boxes with only 5 speeds from the A32 and more rare A33 available. There are no 6 speeds available as they were not a NZ or JDM option. I may consider importing one from the US if it looks to be the only option but this is a huge cost.....

So 1
Are VQ boxes interchangeable ie will a VQ 25 box fit a 35 block? will fwd box bolt to rwd blocks?

Are the earlier 5 speed boxes strong? or am i wasting my time and should try and import a 6 speed box?

2
Are there aftermarket limited slip diff's available for the NON LSD 5 speed boxes?

3 Can anyone suggest somewhere to buy a 35 and 6 speed? preferably a front cut so i can get mounts, alternator, shifters etc ....all the little bits you need but loose when you just buy a motor or box.

we have a plentiful supply of VQ35's here ex A33 Maxima's and Cefiro's so i can get just a motor easy enough. Also VQ25det and VQ30det's in RWD form.

Cheers
Cy

 

Radio back light remains on all the time even when car and/or radio is off. Maxima GXE 1999. Radio and everything else is working just fine. Power antenna goes up and down as required. I unplugged power cord from antenna, but it makes no different.
I removed fuse for now to prevent battery drainage. Thanks in advance for any recommendations.

 

Hey all, all my lights(dash,headlights,clock) dim in and out or flash intermittantly. I checked ground, battery voltage, and alternator but all seemed good. Any ideas what could cause this?

To Sproket13: I have a 99 max with factory alarm and if I hold the unlock on keyfob my windows roll down.

 

I have it all unhooked and am taking the engine out from the top with leaving the transmission in. Having a bit of a problem getting the flywheel to clear the bell housing. Anyone on here that has done the engine pull this way and may have an idea of how to get the extra space to clear the housing?

 

Hello All,

Here is my situation... bought a 1995 Maxima from a friend... Just recently since its been getting very cold out here in NJ my car has been having a difficult time starting. At first it would be every now and then the car wouldnt start up right away. I had to wait a few seconds and then it would crank up all the way. After a few weeks then it wouldnt start unless i pressed the gas. took it to the shop in need of a tune up thinking it would resolve my issue but then it would act up again. Shop did a diagnostics on it and came up with knock sensor and o2 sensor. Didnt get it done right away because of $$$. A week later I started my car and while i was driving the car had a difficult time accelerating then the idle was dropping really low while not pressing on the gas. I immediately drop to the shop and got the knock sensor changed. Knock sensor plastic casing was all cracked up. Now after almost a month my car didnt want to start today. I pressed the gas and had to press it several times to start the car. It would start, idle normal, then drop down really low and die. I cant get the car to stay on it would just die. I also smell fuel all around the car even in the inside. I hear from friends that my fuel pump needs to be changed and fuel filter. What do you guys think? I will be getting my car towed on Monday to the shop.

Any help or advice is much appreciated.

Thanks.

 

How did you check your alt? Did you pull it and have it tested at Autozone (or the like)? Or did you do a multimeter test? Probably best to have the battery and alternator pulled and tested that way.

There are lots of reasons why the Maxima is difficult to start. Often, the ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) needs to be replaced, as it's sending the wrong temperature to the ECU. Although, since you mention the gas smell it could be a dead injector. There is a multimeter test (search for it) that will tell you if an injector is toast. On the other hand, the gas smell could just be from taking repeated starts to actually start, lots of gas without starting.

Are you taking the engine out WITHOUT taking the transmission out? Just want to clarify.

 

Hello All,
First time poster too, as the guy few posts above me (p10racer) is asking about a gearbox, i am too, only that i'm in the middle east and i have the middle east version of Maxima '97 30GV (VQ30DE) engine and 4 A/T gearbox with O/D.
And while it's an ok gearbox I still think it lacks the intelligence of newer cars gearboxes (i think it has the same method as the 30-40 year old Automatic transmissions), is there a particular gearbox that works on my car and has a better technology, i feel huge gaps in power utilization between gears specially 1st and 2nd, the kickdown isn't that smart and if you didn't do a kickdown you can't possibly get the power you want on 2nd gear so you have to go to 1st with a kickdown, which is sometimes annoying for the passengers and me, specially if you are in the high end of 1st gear speed.
So the question is :
Is there a suitable gearboxes that works on my car and will give me a better performance?
Thanks alot in advance.

 

I just bought my 5spd about a month back with 92k miles and one owner. I bought it through the dealer i work at with my employee discount. The week i was looking to purchase it, i drove it at least ten times to make sure it shifted properly while cold and warmed up.

Needless to say, it showed really well with smooth and crisp shifts even when driving it light or hard. After about a week, i noticed that the shifter would get stuck in gears, especially fifth gear, after being on the highway for some time. Down shifting also became much harder, especially when cold. After the car is well warmed up, it becomes easier, but i still have to really slow down and let the shifter slide in(Even then, its a bit harsh engaging).

After looking for solutions on here, i found out that i should try replacing the fluid with some Amsoil 75w90. This helped a lot with getting the shifter unstuck but didn't do much for the down shifting issues.

I have been told my a couple of mechanics that its my synchros that are bad, but I am trying to figure out how the synchros went bad so suddenly.

Here is my question: is it worth putting in another transmission or should i just return it back to the dealer?

 

I used a multimeter. I'll have them checked on my day off. Thx for help.

 

Newbie here, but long time Maxima owner....google is a wonderful thing so I hope this forum is as good as I think it is in finding my help.

98 SE, close to 200K miles.

Have had a small "oil" leak for a while and had the front gasket replaced a while back. Didn't really fix it. Had another person look at it, he thought the PS was low so added some and maybe it's my imagination, but the leak looks worse now.....though no fluid readings are low....i.e. I have a leak, but nothing is showing as leaking out.

The only thing I can think is the oil was changed and too much put in and that's what leaking out.

Anyway, got under the car yesterday. Something has leaked all over....on the passenger side front tire side. Not the oil filter. That's dry, but everything else is coated.

On the foil looking wrapped pipe that leads to the PS container, it looks like the most "leakage". But the PS hasn't gone down since some was added a few weeks ago.

The car smells when it's been running and there is whine in the engine when it's own...and it gets higher pitched when accelerating. I think that is from whatever is leaking has gotten on the belts....


What gives? And is it time to give up my baby?

 

I just bought a 99 SE-L

There are two wires with two plugs coming out from in between the dash and radio. One looks like a headphone plug for iPod or Zune or something. The other one is slightly larger.

Any idea what these might be or were they something someone added?

 

What is the 'front gasket', exactly?

Oil won't leak out on overfill unless you're overfilling the hell out of it.

Does this whine get louder/higher pitched when revving up the engine? What about when turning side to side at a stop?

Leaks can appear immense from underneath, but actually take little fluid. The PS high pressure hoses are common to leak, if you're thinking PS.

Really what you need to do is clean it all up, put UV dye in the oil and PS fluid, then drive it, checking for evidence of leaks every so often. If you don't wait too long after you notice leakage, you should be able to trace it to it's source with a UV light.

Does the second one look like a power lead? Inverted compared to the stereo lead is what it should look like.

Yes, those are aftermarket. Likely for some sort of MP3 player.

 

Now that you mention it the one does look more like a power lead and the other a 3.5mm stereo jack. Ok i'll see where it runs and what not when I replace the head-unit.

Thanks!

 

someone help me out with this please.

 

Search for your symptoms on the forum.

If people are telling you that your synchros are gone, look up the symptoms of worn out synchros.

 

I did a quick search and found another forum where another car had similar issues and everyones response was in fact syncros or dragging clutch.

My clutch seems fine so is it worth getting another trans or should I return it, because the dealer will take it back from me.

 

Two Separate Questions:

What aftermarket headlights seem to work the best with HID kits for our cars? I keep reading that the stock lights scatter the beam horribly. Is it just a matter of baking the lenses off and painting the reflectors or is there an affordable pair of headlights that work just as well or better than modified stock?

I read the FAQ about the MEVI intake mani and how to swap it. Seemed pretty straight forward. However, what I either read past or could not find was where one would acquire one. Since they're from the middle east must they be imported or bought from the factory? Is there an importer of them?

 

Just wanted to introduce myself...I was thinking of selling my 4th gen max with 120k , untill I stumbled upon this site. After seeing the great mods that people have done with their's , it has truly inspired me to do the same. First thing first I got 245/45z/17 ' s Yoko's on 2in lip alloy Borbets, looks mean. Wish I had a pic of it, but got the snow treads with stock rims on it ( I got an after market spoiler for it but its in major need of a paint job......I was wondering if maybe the tires I got are too wide for this car????? Well , looking forward to meeting some fellow Maxima owners who really know the ins and outs of these great cars...peace

 

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hread-yet.html

Read the stickies. They are a wealth of info

 

U can try fixin the synchros with a tranny shop but they gonna be costly. Prolly as much as a NEW tranny, $2500. u can find a decent used tranny and swap them, prolly cost 1000-1300 bucks.

Its up to you what u want to do. I hate when i see the tranny with this issue that could have been solved with proper fluid changes. PPl dont really understand that the fluids and maintenacne on this car in particular is critical.

My advice, see how well the fluid helps. If u can take it back, go for it. the car may be a lemon or just need a new tranny. But the guy shd have told u that upfront.

 

Maybe see if they'll fix it. I don't think it's necessary to return the otherwise good car. Although, it is sad that they sold it to you that way, more so since you work there. If they take it back, they'll probably have to fix it anyway.

For the mevi:
http://car-part.com
http://courtesyparts.com
or check classifieds.

 

Hello All,
I am currently in the market for a used car around $3000, and have come across a 1999 Maxima SE with just under 120,000 miles. Upon inspection of the car, everything seemed good (although I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to cars other than audio) and I drove it and loved it. I have also researched the Maxima on sites such as this one and others. My problem is, this will be my first car and my mother will be splitting the cost with me, but because of this she wants any car I get to be inspected and approved by our local mechanic. When called to schedule an appointment, the mechanic said to not waste our time on a 1999 Maxima and that with over 100,000 miles, the car is not worth over $1000 and that these Maximas are not reliable cars and tend to be rust buckets underneath. This just doesn't seem right to me. Should I really not waste my time with this Maxima? (i know this is a maxima forum so it will tend to be biased, but what are your honest opinions on this) Also, for my mom lol, what are your opinions on having a Maxima as a first car?
Thanks

 

[QUOTE=95franklin;7886428]Maybe see if they'll fix it. I don't think it's necessary to return the otherwise good car. Although, it is sad that they sold it to you that way, more so since you work there. If they take it back, they'll probably have to fix it anyway.

The car was in the dealers auction, so there is no warranty with it. I chose the car because it is in near perfect condition overall. It has new suspension, tires, perfect leather, etc. I could have easily bought a newer model for similar price that I paid for this car($3500 out the door) but due to the condition I went with this.

I want to get it fixed and put new syncros, but I have read that it will be a hit or miss. I certainely do not want a used tranny; so it's either fix it or new tranny.

Not sure what to do. Anyone got experience with tranny repairs point me in the right direction. I don't want make costly mistakes.

Thanks for anyone that helped so far.

 

Maximas make great first cars. And are pretty reliable if you stay up on the maintenance. And, they're fairly easy to work on in my opinion. The one you're considering actually has low mileage. I'd get another mechanic to check it out.

Rust will be an issue depending on where you live, but any car in your price range will have the same rust issue. What state do you live in? You should add that to your profile.

 

Thanks for the quick reply Wizard. I live in New Jersey. Just to clarify, rust is not any more of a problem on Maxima's than any other car that age, correct?

 

That's correct. They're all roughly the same.

EDIT: When you have the car checked out by a mechanic, have him check the radiator support bar and area around it for rust, and ask him how bad it is. That's the most common area that rust is the worst and people start replacing parts.

 

Hellow everybody I just joined this forum in hopes of diagnosing my 97's automatic transmission problem, and possibly helping somebody out with their problems also, just i have no knowlege on the auto transmissions.

So the issue is in overdrive gear (lets say "fifth" gear) going about 30-35 mph where the engine is running at 1000-1200 rpms the car will not downshift, but it will buck back and forth, kind of to say "i cant shift help me". The fluid is at the correct level and it has never shook before, just hesitated to downshift a little bit but never shook.

Does anybody know the answer to this?

 

My first car is a Maxima. Great car. Super reliable. That mechanic is a ***. I suppose you could say that about any car, but this car is a tank. I would definitely recommend it as a super reliable and a good starter.

If it were my car I would fix it. I wouldn't want to take the chance on another dud transmission. There's no way I would pay for a new one or for a mechanic to do it. I would fix it myself, or try to at least. If the synchros don't do it, at least you've eliminated that as a problem and you have nice, new synchros.

 

U may have loose or corroded wiring behind fuse panel or worn relay

 

Clean TB and MAF per how tos. Change the fuel filter. Throw some chevron techron in the fuel tank.

 

I disagree with Wiz. The max is a great car to have. But its not easy to work on as say a honda or a toyota. Its certainly easier than any american car tho.

For a 1999 with 120k miles then $3000 is a pretty good deal. NO MAX WILL COST 1000 bucks UNLESS IT IS IN REALLY SH%TTY CONDITION.

That being sd, there are a lot more sensors and electricals with this car that make it less reliable than a HONDA or Toyota. But if u keep up with the maintenance and learn what to do from the org, then the max is a dope car.

Im on my third max