Everytime except for once my plugs have been gapped for my car. In fact at advance they have a gapper and I always check it while I'm checkin out just to be safe.

 

Loosen the locknut and thread the shaft out of the yoke on the pedal to adjust the clutch pedal out.

Well are you hearing the noise only when you're in gear, or neutral? Clutching in, or not? Stopped, moving? Accelerating, decelerating? Turning the wheel or straight?

Basically we need more details.

 

by the locknut do you mean by the actual clutch pedal and just extend it basically?

basically the noise is constint, it's harder to hear the noise while I'm goin down the road but I can't seem to pin point it when it's idling an I'm under the hood. What should I listen for and I will check when I get out of work at 5pm eastern time. Thanks for the help.

 

also right now the clutch grabs about a 1/4 from the floor if that matters?

 

Have you looked at where the rod from the clutch master connects to the clutch pedal? Thread it out of the u-shaped piece on the pedal.

Well does it increase with speed, or RPM? You also didn't answer any of my questions above...

 

ya I said it seems to be constint all the time. No matter what you do, again I can't hear it to great when I'm going down the road. I will check it when I get out of work today and post again and listen to see if anything changes with speed, ect.

Also if you ease out on the clutch real slow in gear it studders at take off?!

 

Is it a stock clutch or aftermarket? And why are you slipping it that much anyway?

 

it's a aftermarket clutch, I'm not slipping it. but I've never had a car studder when you take off slow either. None of my honda's have ever done that so I assumed something is wrong. Is it normal for maxima's or if I adjust the pedal off the floor do you think it will help?

 

Aftermarket clutches tend to chatter, that's just how it is. How much or how little they do so depends on the specific clutch and flywheel.

You said you 'ease out real slow' on the clutch pedal it chatters. If that's not slipping the clutch, what is it?

Adjusting the engagement point shouldn't matter as far as clutch chatter (if that's what it is, the description isn't the best).

 

ya I will have to check the noise when I get out of work today. But if I ease out on the clutch slow what would cause it to slip/studder? Are you saying that's the after market clutch?

 

Does it only happen when you slip the clutch slowly like that? Doesn't do it when you take off normally?

What clutch is it?

 

yep if you start off normal than it's fine. It's just a advance auto clutch.

 

I have a question about my intake i made a video hopefully it helps you understand my question better Thanks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRJgG4MDrrg

 

Trust me, you don't want to remove that. You will get an annoying whistle while cruising and all the aftermarket pipes are made of metal, so you are going to get heat transfer to your intake air worse than you are already getting.

 

You sure? Alright i just think it looks wierd. So thats why i was wondering. I'm thinking bout just doing a cold air intake

 

I just purchased a 96 SE manual friday night and love it. My mom has had 4 maximas so i knew it was a good purchase. I'm having sone problems with it though. When i start it it turns right over but makes like a whinning noise for about 2 seconds after it starts. I also think i need to replace my plugs. I can give it gas and it will kinda sputter all the way to redline. Sometimes the rpms will drop to 200-4000 go to 1000 then drop to 0 but will start right back up. Its like the plugs aren't making enought spark to keep the car running sometime but i'm not sure. Me and a buddy of mine with a 5th gen are changing them out Friday. Is this because of bad plugs? Does that sound like a starter issue?

 

Hello everyone. My 1995 Maxima needs a new alternator. The mechanic I had look at it first said that it will take him 5 hours labor to do this. I thought this was a bit suspicious. Am I right? I could have swore that this is something that can be done in 2 hrs or less. Thanks.

 

The idle issue is more likely a dirty TB/IACV, not plugs. Worth a change though, if it's been a while.

 

Book time is 1.9, but it can easily be done in less time.

If you have basic hand tools, you can do it yourself.

 

Alright got a couple questions for the orgers. For about a month now I have had a recurring miss. It has been on a couple different cylinders, #'s 2 and 5. Now #5 I have fixed ended up that the pigtail had slid off and was causing the miss. But cylinder 2 is what gets me. Sometimes it will be missing for the whole drive from start up to shut down. Other times it will be fine at start and and not missing but somehow it will start to miss and the CEL will flash while I am driving. I have taken the cover off and the pigtail is not loose at all, very snug. What's the problem here? Oh, and this happened to me today. I was goin through the gears takin up to ~4500-5k and as soon as i get into 3rd I feel this great loss of power and the CEL light blinking. WTF?

And the other is code 0201 -Ignition Signal. The ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running. I don't even know where to start with this one.

Thanks in Advance
Vince

 

ok mohr, so I checked it out and it seems to shake a lil when you shift 1-3 as it's going in the gear and has a slight whinning noise as you acelerate. Let me know what you think

 

The CEL blinking is a misfire, hence the loss of power. Are you still on your original coils? If so, there's your problem. Even if you've got new ones, I'm betting that the #2 coil is at fault anyway.

 

Is it a constant whine that isn't dependant on speed or RPM?

It's 'shaking' when you're putting it in gear? That shouldn't cause any sort of vibration issues at all. Unless you meant something else?

 

Right, I knew about the flashing CEL thing. I just bought another one from a member on here so we'll see what happens with that. Any ideas on the 0201?

 

0201 is most likely being caused by a failing coil. They generally won't throw a code with an intermittent failure but they can when they get worse.

 

no the whining goes up with the rpm and speed. An it vibrates as you put it in gear a lil. It sounds like the whine is like a gear maybe or a something that goes with the rpms or the axles.

 

Dependant on speed and RPM doesn't really make sense.

Have you checked the gear oiil level?

 

how do you do that?

 

Just like most any other manual trans, pull the fill plug and check.

 

I can tell that its like the car isn't getting some a spark from somewhere. I let one of my friends drive it and he said it could possibly be a fuel pump or filter. Could that be an issue causing this to happen?

BTW I only got 219 miles out of my first full tank (Premium)

 

ok but I'm not sure how I tell if it needs more or not?

 

I figured it out thanks I will try that and I think it should fix the whinning!

 

Recently, I have replaced the upper oil pan seals on my 99 maxima for a leak at the rear main area, which is now fixed. After this job, I have started to notice an oil leak at start up that goes away after warmed up in the area of the upper oil pan on the passenger side. Now, im leaning more towards a problem with the upper oil pan that I just sealed, but am kinda curious if anyone out there has a picture of what the timing cover oil leak looks like, or a specific location of it due to its area. My oil leak appears to be coming from the top of the upper oil pan where the 2 o rings are located, and running down the harness of the OPS and Crank sensor and dripping off the lower oil pan; but im not sure where the timing covers usually leak. If anyone out there has a picture of this type of leak, that would be great!

Thanks

 

UPDATE: (95 maxima gle-112k miles)

Had a nissan dealership do a used car inspection. Heres what they found that it needs:

With labor:

Hood Shocks $296.06 (Napa time)
Valve cover gaskets $422.50 (!!!!)
Alignment $89.95
Cruise control switch $224.40
Belts $184.02
PS Hoses $423.93 (Im glade its them and not the rack or pump leaking-whew)
Front Strut bearings $388.84 (ugh)
rear o2 sensor $323.53 (I can handle this)
Antenna $133.02 (napa anyone?)
Air bag light on - need further diagnoses - Im guessing airbags dont work because of a short as he said

Not too bad I suppose, I think my main focus is the PS hoses, and I need input on how hard of a job this is.
The strut bearings, what kind of job is this, should I let a shop do this?

Input is welcome.

 

well alot of that stuff is overpriced, but i know you can get the hood shocks off ebay for like 50 dollars and they come with a warranty

 

How many posts does it take to not be considered a newb?

 

.................6

 

I thought I saw them at napa for $20 a pop?

 

What makes you specifically think that it's a spark problem? The only other thing it could be for spark is a problem with the coils, wiring, or ECU.

Are you referring to the rough idle problem or the issue when accelerating?

 

Did you replace the o-rings? Sure you got them installed without tearing them up at all?

Did you clean the mating surfaces of the pan and the block well? Get a nice bead of RTV all around?