bump

 

looking for the latest navigational disc for an 05 max.

can anyone possibly help?

 

Try posting in the correct section

 

Do you mean the hub centric ring, for aftermarket wheels?

As far as changing, you just pull the old one off, put the new one on.

I would get a new one as soon as you can, really.

Just check them every time you take the wheels off for cracks, that's about all you can do.

 

Yeah, I was switching from aftermarket 18's to 5.5 gen wheels when I notice it was broke.
Thanks

 

I hope this is the right place for this...I've used the search and can't find anything even remotely similar to my problem.
I have a 97 Maxima SE, 5-speed manual. We just changed the CV axles, which solved that problem, but now there's a new one. There is a clunking sound coming from the passenger front. I can only hear it while I'm driving straight. When I push in the clutch, the clunking goes away. It normally doesn't start making the noise until the car is warmed up, and not only can I hear it, I can feel it in the gas pedal. For whatever it's worth, I currently have stock springs/struts, but the springs have been cut for temporary lowering (getting real lowering springs and new struts this weekend)....just in case you need to know that.
I think I've covered everything....if you need to know anything else, please lmk.
Do you have any ideas on what this could be?

 

Wish I knew. I have the same problem and I replaced both my axles. It feels like my shock is loose and hitting against something, but I do have new shock / spring combo.

Are your shocks good?

 

It started up directly after the new axles? Have you looked over your work?

It could very well just be a bad axle, where did you get them from?

 

I'm guessing that the shocks are not good...like I said, they're stock and my springs are cut. We looked over the work, everything seems fine. The cv axles are from Advanced Auto Parts, and are new, not remanufactured.
Ok, have to change what I said in the original post. It's coming from the driver's side (not passenger). My hubby is out right now driving to listen to it. It has gotten a LOT louder and now also when slowing down. He thinks it's the tranny....I don't.

 

Yes! I just wanted to ask first because I saw a 2.5 inch muffler in Schucks and I was planning on buying it. Its only 50 bucks so for a louder rumble I think its relatively cheap compared to getting all that piping.

 

I still say axle, especially since the problem occurred directly after installing new axles. It's easily possible to get bad brand new axles, especially when from a generic auto parts store.

 

I just replaced my alternator and have a couple of questions. everything went pretty smoothly. i bumped up against the lower radiator hose a few times while maneuvering the old alt out. i noticed it looked like it seperated a bit where it makes a 90 going up into the radiator. I pushed it back together as much as i could. i ran the car for a while and saw no leaks. should i be concerned with this section of the hose? is there some sort of rubber sealant for this? i also cracked the plastic piece where the output wire connects onto the alt from overtightening. could this be a problem? the car seems to be running fine. thanks!

 

Why are you worried about the hose if it's fully seated and not leaking?

The plastic piece is just there for wire orientation (haven't looked at a Maxima alt in a while, but that's all they're ever there for), shouldn't be a problem as long as you have it routed properly.

 

the hose looked like it had some sort of film on the small section that separated. that got me thinking there might have been some sealant that i broke loose. haven't messed with radiator hoses much. probably just a little paranoid. as for the alt connection, i read somewhere that the plastic piece under the nut is an insulator and if cracked, could cause alt failure. i'm notorius for overtightening.

 

The clutch pedal on my 99 stays on the floor. Noticed some fluid around the slave cylinder. Would replacing the slave cylinder be a good place to start?

 

Looks like you have a leak. Replace it then and bleed it and see if the problem still occurs.

 

Refill and bleed the system, see if you can locate the leak before replacing parts. Most likely it's the junction between the hard line and rubber hose.

 

thank you bro.

 

Is the avatar upload form unlocked after a certain post count?

Have the VQ35 Maximas and 350Zs ever shared harnesses and ECUs (sans the actual tune)?

 

Neither of these are 4th gen questions (the 5th gen forum has a newbie thread too, you know)...however:

No, I believe it's a donating feature only.

No, they've been different every year. Remember the physical layout, a FWD harness won't route around a RWD bay properly, and the same for the opposite. The A34s (and possibly A35) have the same ECU connector as the Z33/V35.

 

HELLO to my fellow MAXIMA lovers I've seen alot of threads and pictures of the projector and angle eye headlight projects and wanted to kno 2 things about this. Which car headlights did it come from and in your opinion which is better as a project between the two gives a nice look. Me and my brother are arguing about this and need the .org help on this discussion. I will love to do it to my max but need to kno the good and the bad between both of them.. Does anyone have any tips about this project??.. Thanks

 

Hey Guys, I just install seats from an 2003 i35 on my 97 Maxima that all ready had power & heated seats But i don't know how to make the driver power & heated seat To Work..????? Help

 

what could be making a rubbing noise whenever i go over a bump?

 

Q: Kinda curious if these are common smog results or if my vehicle is special? face

I finally decide to remove & clean the egr, replace a bad o2 sensor, installed some ngk spark plugs and put in some 5w 30 fully synthetic oil. Went in to smog my car today and was quite surprised with the results.

 

...are they plugged in? Were the connectors the same, or did you have to do some wiring?
Are they getting power?
Are you sure they worked before hand?
Have you tested the seat by jumping the connector with a power source?
Checked the fuses? Circuit breakers okay?

 

I replaced the valve covers, Now I get an oddity with the idle.

If I let it idle in park, it's at 700 rpms. after about 30 sec, it will slowly drop to 600 rpms, then gradually work it's way back up to 700 rpms over 5 sec.

In drive, sitting still, it's at 650 rpms. Then after 20-30 sec, it slowly drops the idle to 500 rpms. Then works its way back up to 650 rpms.

When I run my ac, while parked, the idle was 1000 rpms, but as soon as I shut the ac off, it's back to normal: 700 rpms. Might be a flock on this one.

However, I did clean the IACV by unbolting the 3 screws that cover it(the brass looking piece with 2 square holes in it. I used maf sensor cleaner.

I used another gasket, did the torque specs and all, just like i did everything else.

Did I do something wrong?

btw, I did get a CEL on start up. checked it, said code 55. Dont see a trouble code by that number.

 

the passenger side plug in with no modification but there no heated . the driver side plugs are totally diferent and the only way is jumping it , yes they were working when i took them of the car "03 I35" ..

 

Did the seats come out of a car with memory seats? The 15ish pin connector?

So have you even wired the driver side seat up? You didn't answer all of my questions.

 

when i hook my laptop up to the ecu it says 55 no malfunction but it shouldn't trip the light so idk what's up.

idle with ac or heat on will be higher.

as for your raising/dropping idle - not sure but read something in the stickies (iirc) about the idle speed relearn procedure so check into that.

 

yes they have memory .

i tried wiring the driver seat but i can't figure it out...

 

You need to be more forthcoming when answering questions, really. Can't help people when it's like pulling teeth to get an answer.

Did you try rewiring it?
Do you have the pinouts of both?
Do you have the pigtail from the I35?

 

ok i tried rewiring it more then 10 times and it still not working.

yes i have both pinouts and the pigtail from the i35... thank u

 

Okay, how are you trying to wire it exactly? Wire color, I mean.

 

ok , idont remember the exact colors but the 4th gen only had two wires Positive & Negative and the ones for the heated ,but the i35 had 20 wires i all ready try matching every single one but no luck...

 

Didn't you just say you had the pinout? Throwing B+ at random pins is asking to cause trouble.

Looks like pins 1, 2, 11, 20, and 31 all need power. Not sure on which of those is required for seat movement, and which are required only for the ADP system. I would run power to just to pin 1 to start off with, and ground pin 16.

For the wiring diagram, look at EL-222 through EL-226.

 

ok im going to look at the diagram and i will try it again tomorrow .. thanks for your help

 

Ive searched and searched and couldn't find the iacv relearn procedure. Could you or someone point me to it? Is the idle going back and forth a common relearn problem?

btw, why in the world would the iacv going bad fry the ecu?

 

??? idk what you mean about the ecu - the 55 code means no malfunction meaning everything should be ok. unhook the battery for at least half hour and that should get rid of the cel.

idle issue here: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...t-setting.html

 

On the 5th gens, the IACV has been known to fail and damage the ECM. Just like the motor mounts.

 

So the 4th gen is exempt?